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jwest2sh

2000 F250 7.3 upgrades (Straight pipe/gauge cluster/aux fuse panel)

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7 hours ago, sausage450r said:

I gotta do the tank mod still. I dont understand why my f350 has a 22 gal tank but my excursion came with a 50. Good work. 

Dang....22 gal seem so small?  I think mine is 29 but I can jam 31 or so in it.  I wish it was 50!

~jw

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12 hours ago, sinverguenza said:

Wow, you have done a lot of mods. Wish I knew how yo do some of them. 

Problem I'm having is a shop installed a Hyper Tuner which works great. The Egde CTS EGT probe keeps sending wrong EGT temps.  It either gets stuck or the temps bounce  around. I called Edge and they sent me a new one. Shop installed it and again same problem. 

I haven't been able to tow with the chip since I don't want to harm the truck.

Do you have a chip?

Ya...I have the Hydra chip.  I can tow my 9K enclosed up the I-8 grade in the 80HP Tow tune and the EGT's get to 1250 briefly on the steep parts then right back down to 1100-1150 doing 60MPH.  I use the Autometer Ultra-lite gauges in the pod on the A pillar.  My probe is in the up-pipe right after the collector by the exhaust mainifold on the driver side.  Where is you probe?

~jw

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1 hour ago, jwest2sh said:

Ya...I have the Hydra chip.  I can tow my 9K enclosed up the I-8 grade in the 80HP Tow tune and the EGT's get to 1250 briefly on the steep parts then right back down to 1100-1150 doing 60MPH.  I use the Autometer Ultra-lite gauges in the pod on the A pillar.  My probe is in the up-pipe right after the collector by the exhaust mainifold on the driver side.  Where is you probe?

~jw

Not sure where the probe is. I guess I can ask the mechanic. I might have to add a guage since the Edge isn't cutting. I pull a 38 foot 5th wheel and I need all the HP I can get.

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1 minute ago, sinverguenza said:

Not sure where the probe is. I guess I can ask the mechanic. I might have to add a guage since the Edge isn't cutting. I pull a 38 foot 5th wheel and I need all the HP I can get.

Ya...thats a big one.  The 7.3 is kinda a dog until you bring it to live with the chip, exhaust and intake.  Wicked wheel II made a huge difference.  Gets rid of that turbo cavitation.  I have a BRV coming too.  Should be here tomorrow.   I noticed mine defueling coming up the grade with the trailer when over 25lbs of boost.  Had to back out of it for a second then get back in the throttle.  The BRV fixes that.  Tricks the MAP to seeing less than 25PSI.   The probe should be pre-turbo, either in the up-pipe or manifold behind #8.  The manifold will read a tick higher because of the thick cast iron holding heat.  Up pipe is the best spot but you'll need to pull the pipe and weld in a bung.  Most guys just drill and tap the manifold.  Mine is getting bellowed up-pipes this summer.  I heard a minor leak coming up the grade.  Pretty common on the 7.3's.

~jw   

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21 hours ago, sausage450r said:

I gotta do the tank mod still. I dont understand why my f350 has a 22 gal tank but my excursion came with a 50. Good work. 

Yeah. My 350 short bed was the same way. After doing the Hutch an Harpoon deal I can squeeze 30 gallons in. 

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I'm parting out an '05 F-350 6.0 DW flatbed if anyone is looking for parts.

 

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36 minutes ago, ahipara 55 said:

I'm parting out an '05 F-350 6.0 DW flatbed if anyone is looking for parts.

 

Put up a picture of what is still available please.

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1 hour ago, sinverguenza said:

Put up a picture of what is still available please.

Let me know what you are looking for. Not interested in any tire kicking. I don't really care if parts are taken off of it or not. It's going to the wrecker in a couple weeks regardless.

I'm just trying to help someone looking for a certain part before its gone.

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Picked up some new seats and door panels today off of Offer up.   Nother really wrong with my seats I just like the look of the newer ones.  They came out of a 2016 F250.  They are not the premium leather out of the Platenum but they are a leather/vinly mix.  They are super comfy.  I'm going to add seat heaters before I install them.  I'm not sure if I'm going to use the door panels yet.  They guy didn't want to seperate them so I just picked them up as a package.  I only paid $1200 for everything.  I would have to rewire my switches because the plugs are different for the locks and windows.  If I can get ahold of some pigtails out of a newer truck I might convert them.  The only bummer part is I was able to slide my stock rear seat forward to fit my speaker box and the new one wont be able to do that.  It's more  modular becuse it folds up and down and the base is different.  I'll have to build and new box and get different spakers.  The subs I have are too deep for any box that would fit behind the new seat.  Oh well...I'd rather have the new seats.  Here's a couple pics.  It'll probably be a few weeks before I can wire everything up but I'll post my progress.

 

I got a tailgate off of a different 2016 about a month ago also...forgot to post pics.  It'll eventually get painted to match when I ditch the gold stripe.

 

Cheers,

~jw

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1 hour ago, jwest2sh said:

Picked up some new seats and door panels today off of Offer up.   Nother really wrong with my seats I just like the look of the newer ones.  They came out of a 2016 F250.  They are not the premium leather out of the Platenum but they are a leather/vinly mix.  They are super comfy.  I'm going to add seat heaters before I install them.  I'm not sure if I'm going to use the door panels yet.  They guy didn't want to seperate them so I just picked them up as a package.  I only paid $1200 for everything.  I would have to rewire my switches because the plugs are different for the locks and windows.  If I can get ahold of some pigtails out of a newer truck I might convert them.  The only bummer part is I was able to slide my stock rear seat forward to fit my speaker box and the new one wont be able to do that.  It's more  modular becuse it folds up and down and the base is different.  I'll have to build and new box and get different spakers.  The subs I have are too deep for any box that would fit behind the new seat.  Oh well...I'd rather have the new seats.  Here's a couple pics.  It'll probably be a few weeks before I can wire everything up but I'll post my progress.

 

I got a tailgate off of a different 2016 about a month ago also...forgot to post pics.  It'll eventually get painted to match when I ditch the gold stripe.

 

Cheers,

~jw

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What a score! Does everything just bolt up or is there some feniscing? 

 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, sinverguenza said:

What a score! Does everything just bolt up or is there some feniscing? 

 

The bolt pattern is the same on the seats and the door panel mounts are the same up to 2016.  You do have to use two self tappers on the door panels into the door but no big deal.   2017 changed a lot of stuff with the new body style.  Everything should just bolt up.  One thing Ford got right!  I  just don't have the harness for the seat airbags....I'm just going to cut the wires on the seats off short and cap them so there is no chance of them getting hit with static and deploying.

Edited by jwest2sh
typo

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1 minute ago, jwest2sh said:

The bolt pattern is the same on the seats and the door panel mounts are the same up to 2016.  You do have to use two self tappers on the door panels into the door but no big deal.   2017 changed a lot of stuff with the new body style.  Everything should just bold up.  One thing Ford got right!  I  just don't have the harness for the seat airbags....I'm just going to cut the wires on the seats off short and cap them so there is no chance of them getting hit with static and deploying.

It's gonna look good!!!

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I've been doing some research on these door lock switches and window switches.  It looks like it's going to be a challenge to find the pinout diagram.  does anyone know where I can find the pinout for the door locks, windows and mirror switches for a 2016?  I can figure out the pinout on my truck side with a test light.  Also, these panels don't have the connectors that go into the switches.  Where is a good place to get those?

 

thanks,

~jw

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10 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

I've been doing some research on these door lock switches and window switches.  It looks like it's going to be a challenge to find the pinout diagram.  does anyone know where I can find the pinout for the door locks, windows and mirror switches for a 2016?  I can figure out the pinout on my truck side with a test light.  Also, these panels don't have the connectors that go into the switches.  Where is a good place to get those?

 

thanks,

~jw

If you find a source please post. Thinking its going to be a tech. I looked on-line for our 14 Explorer. Not a lot of newer stuff online yet. Door handle lock/uplock sensor doesn't work. Ford Dealer found a connector with corrosion, and quoted $2,500 to wire around the connector. I just need the door pinouts where the connector is. Wifes car, do just cant start taking things apart to find it.   

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probably nned to find someone with access to alldata.

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On 3/12/2019 at 9:19 AM, Kevin said:

probably nned to find someone with access to alldata.

Thanks Kevin...I'll hit up my buddy at Poway Ford when I get my hands on some pigtails.  

~jw

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Couple more minor things done to the truck.  I got a stainless steel gauge cluster overlay from US Speedo.  It actually replaces the stock black one...not just a cover.  It came with new needles too.  It was pretty easy to intall and I think it looks pretty cool.  I replaced every bulb in the dash and cluster with LED's from Superbrightleds.com.  The cover was $299 and the LED's came to just over $100.  It updates the truck a little.  I also put in a straight pipe and took the Banks Monster Muffler out....for now.  I just wanted to see how it sounded and if it made a difference in EGT's.  So far I like the sound.  It's not really that much louder.  I just made the exhaust a little more throaty sounding and I get a little more turbo whistle out of the tail pipe.  Can't really tell unless I roll down the windows.  I put in a auxillary 12 position blue sea fuse panel behind the right rear passenger seat.  I'm planning on adding a bunch of stuff down the road and don't want to be cutting into the factory harness.  The fuse panel is run off the ignition switch so I had to run it through a 100A solenoid as to not overload the switch.  The solenoid is powered by 4GA welding cable directly from the battery with a 100A circuit breaker inline under the hood.  This should be plenty to power some lights, gauges, power step, compressor, air lockers, ect. down the road.  Here's a couple pics and vids.

~jw  

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Truck sounds great with the straight pipe.

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13 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

Couple more minor things done to the truck.  I got a stainless steel gauge cluster overlay from US Speedo.  It actually replaces the stock black one...not just a cover.  It came with new needles too.  It was pretty easy to intall and I think it looks pretty cool.  I replaced every bulb in the dash and cluster with LED's from Superbrightleds.com.  The cover was $299 and the LED's came to just over $100.  It updates the truck a little.  I also put in a straight pipe and took the Banks Monster Muffler out....for now.  I just wanted to see how it sounded and if it made a difference in EGT's.  So far I like the sound.  It's not really that much louder.  I just made the exhaust a little more throaty sounding and I get a little more turbo whistle out of the tail pipe.  Can't really tell unless I roll down the windows.  I put in a auxillary 12 position blue sea fuse panel behind the right rear passenger seat.  I'm planning on adding a bunch of stuff down the road and don't want to be cutting into the factory harness.  The fuse panel is run off the ignition switch so I had to run it through a 100A solenoid as to not overload the switch.  The solenoid is powered by 4GA welding cable directly from the battery with a 100A circuit breaker inline under the hood.  This should be plenty to power some lights, gauges, power step, compressor, air lockers, ect. down the road.  Here's a couple pics and vids.

~jw  

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Dash looks great!

Did you notice EGT drop with straight pipe?

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4 hours ago, sinverguenza said:

Dash looks great!

Did you notice EGT drop with straight pipe?

Not around town but I've been just cruising.  I doubt it will make a significant difference...the Banks moster muffler is a striaght through design so it wasn't very restrictive.  If any, it will onlty make a difference when towing.  It could be my imagination, but I feel like it has a little more pickup off the line and gets through the rpm faster....again, it could just be the louder exhaust??? Either way, I like it! :td:

~jw

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I have a 4x4 question?  So I deleted the vacuum actuator that locks and unlocks the 4x4 hubs because it was leaking and the vents would always defaut to defrost until the vacuum pump built up a vacuum.  I'm going to go with the Warn manual hubs anyway.  I had those on my 73 Bronco for years and never had a problem with them.  The main reason is because I was told not to back the truck up with a heavy load on it.....the trans doesn't like it.  I want to be able to use 2 wheel low and I can't do that with auto hubs.  Anyway....the question: So I jacked up the front of the truck the other day and spun the front wheels with the hubs in Auto...which should be unlocked but the axles were spinning?  Is that normal or should the hubs spin free without turning the axles like a manual hub?  

~jw

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48 minutes ago, jwest2sh said:

I have a 4x4 question?  So I deleted the vacuum actuator that locks and unlocks the 4x4 hubs because it was leaking and the vents would always defaut to defrost until the vacuum pump built up a vacuum.  I'm going to go with the Warn manual hubs anyway.  I had those on my 73 Bronco for years and never had a problem with them.  The main reason is because I was told not to back the truck up with a heavy load on it.....the trans doesn't like it.  I want to be able to use 2 wheel low and I can't do that with auto hubs.  Anyway....the question: So I jacked up the front of the truck the other day and spun the front wheels with the hubs in Auto...which should be unlocked but the axles were spinning?  Is that normal or should the hubs spin free without turning the axles like a manual hub?  

~jw

The factory hubs get stuck all the time, you can pull them apart, clean and lube them, and they will work like manual hubs. Or do as I did and throw them in the trash and install a decent manual hubs. 

Edit to add, when leaving the dunes, after turning off the 4x4, I used to get out and grab the u joint just inside the hub and wiggle it back and forth the get the hub to disengage..... It was a temporary fix

Edited by The looney duner

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I have a 4x4 question also. When turning on my truck all dash lights including the 4x4 light turns on then shuts off like normal. When I went to Glamis in October I turned the dash nob to 4x4 and then manually locked my hubs and dash light didn't come on.

Thankfully I was able to air out tires a lil and move into the campsite.

Anything I should look for?

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2 hours ago, sinverguenza said:

I have a 4x4 question also. When turning on my truck all dash lights including the 4x4 light turns on then shuts off like normal. When I went to Glamis in October I turned the dash nob to 4x4 and then manually locked my hubs and dash light didn't come on.

Thankfully I was able to air out tires a lil and move into the campsite.

Anything I should look for?

Not sure what you have but I’m my Ford . To switch to 4low it needs to be in park or neutral foot on brake to engage 4 Lo . 

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4 hours ago, The looney duner said:

The factory hubs get stuck all the time, you can pull them apart, clean and lube them, and they will work like manual hubs. Or do as I did and throw them in the trash and install a decent manual hubs. 

Edit to add, when leaving the dunes, after turning off the 4x4, I used to get out and grab the u joint just inside the hub and wiggle it back and forth the get the hub to disengage..... It was a temporary fix

Great....I will give that a shot.  Thanks!  Do you happen to know if the Warn hubs for the Dana 50 are the same for the Dana 60?  I plan on doing an axle swap down the road and don't want to buy two sets of hubs if I can help it?

 

~jw

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