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onanysunday

Funco air filter housing project. Go big or go home.

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125 miles on its maiden voyage and about 90 miles following behind 1 or more cars. Hard to say how much sand got in there but it is pretty darn clean. Burp valves worked great and never any sand laying in the bottom. Pretty excited this combo will keep as much as possible out. With Centri's claims on fine dust I could see one of these working well on an off road desert car in a lot of silt. Keep some of that powder out before ever hitting the filter.  :flag:

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Feel any power loss?

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1 hour ago, Rockwood said:

Feel any power loss?

Nope, Works great.

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2 hours ago, onanysunday said:

Nope, Works great.

Nice! I’ll copy it then... :bigrin 

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10 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Nice! I’ll copy it then... :bigrin 

By all means. Kind of big but works! We will see how long the turbo lasts.

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I should add to this thread from all of last season. I switched and ran all 3 of my CBM filters during the season without cleaning. They still look like new with nothing on them and thinking do I really need to even clean them. This thing had met or exceeded all expectations.  BTW took my car to Turbos direct and they think my oil drain line was to small. Plus it angles back at a sharp angle. Thinking it was backing up into the drain.  A turbo oil drain scavenge pump was suggested but I decided to start with a larger reservoir first. Would like to keep it mechanical vs another electrical item to go bad. 

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19 minutes ago, onanysunday said:

I should add to this thread from all of last season. I switched and ran all 3 of my CBM filters during the season without cleaning. They still look like new with nothing on them and thinking do I really need to even clean them. This thing had met or exceeded all expectations.  BTW took my car to Turbos direct and they think my oil drain line was to small. Plus it angles back at a sharp angle. Thinking it was backing up into the drain.  A turbo oil drain scavenge pump was suggested but I decided to start with a larger reservoir first. Would like to keep it mechanical vs another electrical item to go bad. 

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Was size was it?  1/2"-5/8" should be more than plenty if you're running a restrictor.  

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43 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Was size was it?  1/2"-5/8" should be more than plenty if you're running a restrictor.  

The id on the small side is .570. So I agree no way it should be the problem. But ............. This is the third turbo that has killed the cartridge. When the car is going down a steep dune for sure that drain is going to be somewhat horizontal. I have a theory that after a hard run with a super hot turbo maybe just one steep downhill can cook it. Really scratching my head on it.  The drain now is huge and the biggest pipe I could get in there.  I have used a couple of different size restrictors per their recommendation. Still have to pull the turbo off to rebuild again and will ask what is the biggest we can go since my drain is bigger. :nut:

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My other thought was crankcase pressure pushing back and not letting it drain. But I have HUGE breathers on this motor. It dumps in the block girdle well above the oil line but maybe there is some windage there pushing back.

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Posted (edited)

Well I had never put and angle finder on that drain and it is only 20 degrees. So on a steeper down hill it would not drain. After a hard run when smoking hot and going down a steep hill that thing could back up and not drain. Hopefully my much larger/more volume resi/drain works. I think it will.  If not I would need an oil scavenge pump. Go straight down and then pump it back into the motor.   https://www.prolineracing.net/products/turbowerx-spartan-electric-oil-scavenge-pump  I thought about this before but maybe I need a -12 for my lower braided line. Even more volume added to what I did up top.

Edited by onanysunday

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49 minutes ago, onanysunday said:

My other thought was crankcase pressure pushing back and not letting it drain. But I have HUGE breathers on this motor. It dumps in the block girdle well above the oil line but maybe there is some windage there pushing back.

Oil pressure should still be waaaaay higher than crankcase pressure though.  

39 minutes ago, onanysunday said:

Well I had never put and angle finder on that drain and it is only 20 degrees. So on a steeper down hill it would not drain. After a hard run when smoking hot and going down a steep hill that thing could back up and not drain. Hopefully my much larger/more volume resi/drain works. I think it will.  If not I would need an oil scavenge pump. Go straight down and then pump it back into the motor.   https://www.prolineracing.net/products/turbowerx-spartan-electric-oil-scavenge-pump  I thought about this before but maybe I need a -12 for my lower braided line. Even more volume added to what I did up top.

Yeah.  I take it the spot it's feeding to on the upper pan is well above oil level?

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That is correct on being above the oil level. Was thinking I was done with this repair but now thinking more about it. No reason I can't over kill it and add another oil resi down low. Use some rectangular box tubing and weld fittings in it.  Just give it more capacity but make sure it drains on flat ground. Motor holds an extra quart over stock at 6. (Jim Wolf oil pan extender) 

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First pic is my old pipe showing the car going down hill. Pretty easy to fill up with oil and not be able to drain with that shallow 20 degree angle.  My new tube is much larger and holds a lot more oil but to go one step further it would be easy to weld and add on an additional reservoir to the tube. Then at that severe angle there is a larger area to fill with oil. It then drains back on flat ground. Pretty easy to do. 

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14 minutes ago, onanysunday said:

First pic is my old pipe showing the car going down hill. Pretty easy to fill up with oil and not be able to drain with that shallow 20 degree angle.  My new tube is much larger and holds a lot more oil but to go one step further it would be easy to weld and add on an additional reservoir to the tube. Then at that severe angle there is a larger area to fill with oil. It then drains back on flat ground. Pretty easy to do. 

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Is that a crack on the merge collector?

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CSI on the case!! :thumbup: Found some pics from when I built the headers. No blow by coming back past that crack yet and I had run the tubes down into the collector.  Pics don't show it but of course the three tubes were welded together in the middle to seal. I will have the turbo off again to rebuild so easy to remove the ceramic coat and weld that spot. 

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Nice, didn’t realize you DIY’d them. :bigrin 

Maybe add a triangle to put between the primaries to spread the load a bit?

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I am thinking safe to assume I will have the only buggy in the dunes with an extra capacity turbo oil drain. Overkill but I can't seeing this thing backing up into the cartridge now. :yahoo:

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Posted (edited)

Well, My turbo was not pushing oil past the seal like before. Still had Turbos Direct go through it. Love working with those guys and I would highly recommend them. I opened the restrictor up from .040 to .045.  Adding this cool guy -4 filter before the turbo. Has a stainless screen inside that can be cleaned at each oil change.  I am also adding an engine oil temp guage to my dash. I don't think the temps are to high but if so easy to add a Setrab oil cooler up high after my intercooler. I would look into the 25 row unit.  https://www.amazon.com/Setrab-ProLine-Engine-Oil-Cooler-Ports/dp/B0011FNKJ6  Brought some weld way up on those two tubes and thinking it won't crack again. Helped triangulate that area like Rockwood said. Used the wire feed to get down in that crack so not beautiful but very functional.

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Edited by onanysunday

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On 8/23/2019 at 6:31 PM, onanysunday said:

I am thinking safe to assume I will have the only buggy in the dunes with an extra capacity turbo oil drain. Overkill but I can't seeing this thing backing up into the cartridge now. :yahoo:

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Nice work! :headbang:

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On 8/5/2019 at 11:43 AM, onanysunday said:

 

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Love this picture!But I guess I'm biased... I think crank case pressure can absolutely cause oil drain issues. Turbos are like a crank case with no seal, only slingers and gas rings. Oil doesn't flow directly out its gonna walk right out the exhaust seal. Looks like you got it covered.

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