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Richard H

Norcold Refrigerator Help

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On an adventure now and have discovered that the refrigerator will not switch to gas. No igniter and no gas flowing (may be tied together). Unit works fine on ac and also dc. When switch to lp get an FL code. Owners guides are for nothing more involved then opening doors. There is gas present at unit. Model no longer made so doing upgrade I would think a major undertaking. Possible control board failure?

BTW this is on a camper so residential units are out of the question.

Edited by Richard H

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Does it have the overheat protection switch/box on it..??? if that thing craps out, then no workie....get a test light and see where you have power and where you don't.....

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Years ago when our LP refrigerator wouldn't light, I replaced the electrode and it began working fine. The electrode gives feedback to the board to tell it the flame has either lit or it hasn't. If it defaults to a non lit status it also closes the gas valve. If there is an open inside the electrode the board thinks it hasn't lit. 

When you turn it to gas does the gas valve click and open? Do you get any spark? Any RV supply should have an electrode in stock. That's a pretty cheap repair if that's what the problem is. It may also be called an igniter.

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Call Norcold with the serial number.  They can tell you if it has been upgraded or had the recalls (if any) done to it.  They were pretty helpful when mine wouldn't work (tried to find me a local shop) Tday week in Glamis. After spending $275 on Amazon to have a new control board sent to me I was able to fix it with a basic magnet which I learned about on iRV2.com and some random guy walking by my camp at Roadrunner who happened to see me working on it.  Wish he saw me the first three days I was there.

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9 hours ago, fortyfour said:

Years ago when our LP refrigerator wouldn't light, I replaced the electrode and it began working fine. The electrode gives feedback to the board to tell it the flame has either lit or it hasn't. If it defaults to a non lit status it also closes the gas valve. If there is an open inside the electrode the board thinks it hasn't lit. 

When you turn it to gas does the gas valve click and open? Do you get any spark? Any RV supply should have an electrode in stock. That's a pretty cheap repair if that's what the problem is. It may also be called an igniter.

No gas valve click and no igniter spark. 

 

9 hours ago, L.R.S. said:

Call Norcold with the serial number.  They can tell you if it has been upgraded or had the recalls (if any) done to it.  They were pretty helpful when mine wouldn't work (tried to find me a local shop) Tday week in Glamis. After spending $275 on Amazon to have a new control board sent to me I was able to fix it with a basic magnet which I learned about on iRV2.com and some random guy walking by my camp at Roadrunner who happened to see me working on it.  Wish he saw me the first three days I was there.

Not a recall model and no upgrades. I'll go on irv and see what else I can find. Thanks.

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Did you unhook the propane tank or or turn off the gas valve?

I was having the same problem after unhooking the propane tank. I turned on the stove to get the air out but my fridge would go into Check mode. Coulnt find what was wrong. I finally lit the stove and left it on for about 20 mins. Problem solved. 

 

Make sure line has no air.

Valve where the propane tanks attach to goes bad. I replaced mine since it was 14 years old and for piece of mine.

 

Turn off gas at the tank. Open slowly very slow and light the stove. Wait a couple of minutes and then try the fridge.

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On ‎7‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 9:39 PM, L.R.S. said:

Call Norcold with the serial number.  They can tell you if it has been upgraded or had the recalls (if any) done to it.  They were pretty helpful when mine wouldn't work (tried to find me a local shop) Tday week in Glamis. After spending $275 on Amazon to have a new control board sent to me I was able to fix it with a basic magnet which I learned about on iRV2.com and some random guy walking by my camp at Roadrunner who happened to see me working on it.  Wish he saw me the first three days I was there.

Thanks LRS. Went to irv2 and read threads of people dealing with same. Found one and made me think, clean the burner. That did it and it is working well. Also found quite a bit of pad 5 in there too. Happy camper!

Edited by Richard H

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3 minutes ago, Richard H said:

Thanks LRS. Went to irv2 and read threads of people dealing with same. Found one and made me think, clean the burner. That did it and it is working well. Also found quite a bit of pad 5 in there too. Happy camper!

Awesome man! Glad you got it figured out. It's a great forum and I've learned a lot about my coach, solar, tires, RV maintenance, etc. I've done a few tech threads over there to share some repairs to my RV. 

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BTW for others first start up of the year:

Find the line into the refer and crack the fitting to vent propane through it if all else fails.

Or light the stove for some time that helps and it helps vent it. Try that first..

Once our old  Norcold went south and they sent me a whole new controller and entirely different wiring schematic.

20 minutes later good to go. Looked complicated as hell but was easy. Changed how the flame was detected with a thermocouple. 3/8" from the flame BTW.

The old system actually sent elect current through the flame to a metal piece connected to a timer that would in turn, let it burn. If it didn't detect the current, then their was no flame and in 5 seconds the gas valve shut for safety.

Works great for a few years then with time and dirt and corrosion the flame wasn't strong enough the carry enough current to satisfy the safety system. Still heated great when it did fire up, but that was starting to be intermittent and often didn't light for more than a few seconds.

Propane is a really dirty gas. If you've ever changed disc propane filters you'll see it. Black like charcoal.

Pipe cleaners through the smaller tubes and keeping everything else clean helps alot.

In both methods the flame has to be strong and the dohickies that pick that up have to be adjusted right. 3/8" in my case.

 

 

Edited by Dune Bandits

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