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Bobalos

Is this Bearing slop or ????

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The PO said that it's been like this since he bought it new.  It does not seem to me like this is ok.....  

I measured both sides rotor to trailing arm to get an idea of how much it was moving... 

Thoughts? 

Thank

 Bob

 

 

IMG_20180903_100129555.jpg

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Too much if you ask me.

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I would say not ok. Plus that will push your brake pads out.

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they look like gear one stub axles? I have gear one stub axle hubs as well as mine has never done that.. I would take that dust cover off and check the axle nut.. better yet I would just completely tear it down and redo them..  the bearing carrier has three bolts that might be loose as well. 

Edited by adam909

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These are gear one mid boards with 930's. 

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Yeah looks similar to my Funco midboards. I would pull the cover off and check the 6 bolts that hold the cv in to the midboard.

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I took off the cover and checked the 6 bolts under it.  They are tight.  I have not taken one of these apart yet (but the gut tells me I'm fixin too) but I don't think these 6 bolts do anything except hold the CV flush against the hub.  

Iirc there was a thread around here that went into detail about taking the midboars hubs apart.  I need to find that... 

Thanks

Bob

 

 

 

IMG_20180903_141443216.jpg

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Those 6 bolts make the "hub sandwich", in a mid-board setup.  When tight, that is the preload on the hub bearings(essentially the width of a CV body).  Either your races or bearings are worn out.  Also, if those are Gear One and they are the aluminum boot flanges, replace asap to steel.  

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Unbolt the brake caliper and check the movement again.  

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LRS,

I did not think to do that when I was screwing around with it.  what are you thinking........... Im gonna find that its much worse?  I could see that..  

thanks

Bob

 

 

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I pulled the caliper off.and.its.no different... 

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10 hours ago, Grease Monkey said:

 

Funny to see my comments in that thread.  After doing it 3 times since then I've become an expert(in my little world).

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1 hour ago, Bobalos said:

I pulled the caliper off.and.its.no different... 

That's good.  Sometimes the brake pads can hold the rotor/hub in place and not allow you to see how much it's actually moving.

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I bought a brand new set of Tatum 930 midboards just a few weeks ago and they came with GKN cv joints. The joints were so tight you couldn't move them without putting an axle into them for leverage and even then they were hard to move around, much less plunge. So we took one of them apart and pressed out the cv body from the bearings, then measured the od of the cv and the id of the bearing. They were a .002 interference fit which is really tight. The cv body was chucked up in the lathe and a thou was removed so it could be reassembled easier. We also polished the star. I'm not sure if -.001 balls will be needed yet I haven't played with them since being turned down.  Damned brand new hubs should be good to go out of the box but they weren't. 

Edited by fortyfour

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I prepped a set of Tatum 934 mid boards a few weeks ago and they were really tight to turn after the final pass at 95lbs/ft. I see that a lot with Tatum hubs.

20180726_181410.jpg

 

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7 hours ago, L.R.S. said:

I prepped a set of Tatum 934 mid boards a few weeks ago and they were really tight to turn after the final pass at 95lbs/ft. I see that a lot with Tatum hubs.

20180726_181410.jpg

 

95 ft lbs?  What size bolts go on the 934's?  I only torque my 930's to 50 ft lbs.  3/8-24 bolts.

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my gear one 934 hubs are also tight with no slop it seams there is quit a bit of preload on the bearings

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29 minutes ago, CHIZZLE said:

95 ft lbs?  What size bolts go on the 934's?  I only torque my 930's to 50 ft lbs.  3/8-24 bolts.

1/2" big dogs.

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On 9/3/2018 at 2:20 PM, Bobalos said:

I took off the cover and checked the 6 bolts under it.  They are tight.  I have not taken one of these apart yet (but the gut tells me I'm fixin too) but I don't think these 6 bolts do anything except hold the CV flush against the hub.  

Iirc there was a thread around here that went into detail about taking the midboars hubs apart.  I need to find that... 

Thanks

Bob

 

 

 

IMG_20180903_141443216.jpg

If your near me, I'd be happy to help. Get that midboard assembly unbolted from the arm and bring it by my shop. I've done mine a few times and have all the tools.

Costa Mesa.

Erik

 

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36 minutes ago, CHIZZLE said:

95 ft lbs?  What size bolts go on the 934's?  I only torque my 930's to 50 ft lbs.  3/8-24 bolts.

Yep, 1/2 f911 bolts.  Also drilled for safety wire, standard on Tatum hubs.

20180808_181332.jpg

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I don't have a picture of it right now but the aluminum under the bolt heads on my brand freaking new Tatum hubs is already wallowed out from overtightening onto soft aluminum. A friend who is the crew chief for a class 1 and class 10 car said he has seen Tatum hubs do this frequently, the permanent fix is to mill out an area under the bolt heads and install a chromoly washer with 6 holes for the bolts. 

Sort of disappointed in them at this point but whatever, they were only $2300. 

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Morning folks, Im back again.  I got the hubs part & found some stuff I dont like.   I want to start fresh with new Bearings & seals.   

 

Is there anywhere here in San Diego that I can buy the bearings & seals?  

 

If I call Kartek up & tell them I have 930 Midboard gear-one hubs, is that all I need to tell them to get the correct parts?

 

thanks folks.

Bob

 

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Call Kartek and ask for Jeff Black. Very knowledgeable and will get you the parts you need. Super fast shipping too. 

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Buy your bearings races and seals on amazon and you'll pay half of what Kartek and gear one sells them for. The only problem is Gear one grinds the numbers off the bearings. Hopefully yours are still on there. I've saved hundreds of dollars rebuilding Pro-Am, Gearone and Tatum hubs by buying the races, bearings and seals on amazon.

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