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J Alper

930 CV fix finially a real fix to a 930CV joint

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On 12/31/2018 at 12:35 PM, J Alper said:

we can modify the 930 midboards to use the 934 adapter

listed above, but will talk about it again,

we can machine off the boot flange and drill it for a adapters, this would keep the 930 body only as a bearing support, then would bolt the 934 to the outside,

it would be pretty much like the buckshot brake kit,

this would help save someone about $3200 for new brakes

that is similar to how the extreme axles guys do it - works well

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23 hours ago, fullthrottleguy said:

that is similar to how the extreme axles guys do it - works well

think it would be a good fix for a 930 midboard without breaking the bank

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3 hours ago, J Alper said:

think it would be a good fix for a 930 midboard without breaking the bank

Other than shortening the axle length I think its a great way to get to a 934 and not have to change trailing arms or do significant rework in most cases, and buying new Midboards which are really expensive. You should not really lose any strength, the 6  3/8 bolts on the hub and strong enough to handle all but the highest HP heavy weight cars with really big tires.

The only other option is the RCV 930/30 which I have had fantastic luck with (From JAlper)  cheaper than full 934  swap, and retains the lighter weight for better acceleration and sprung weight,  but  thats not cheap and is only good if the total degree is under 24 - if you have 24-28 you almost have to step up to 934's  for long term reliability

I think most people with 930 axle problems though see them because the cars they have or buy are aging .... average cars are 2005 - 2008  at least 10 years on axles, no one changes them unless they break from fatigue ... and they fatigue - axles are just constantly twisting torsion bars. Like CV's bearings, seals, and other wear parts they should be replaced every 5 years or so.   I can say with certainty that 90% of failed 930 axles I have seen either are 10 years old or they fail because someone did not mark direction and serviced the car and put them in against their "set rotation" or someone switched over to bigger paddles and the axles are Old...

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Posted (edited)

J Alper can you go into more detail about modifying a 930 midboard boot flange? Do you have any pictures of them after modification? I am intrigued by this.

I have 930 cvs and midboards on my car right now and my cv angle is very good, it's low 20's at full droop. You say the cv angles with 2 adapters only adds 3 degrees?

How much are the adapters and how much to modify my midboard boot flanges?

How much angle can you run with the EMPI 934 cvs without clicking?

And finally, how many of these modifications have you done, and how long have they been in service?

Edited by fortyfour

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16 hours ago, fortyfour said:

J Alper can you go into more detail about modifying a 930 midboard boot flange? Do you have any pictures of them after modification? I am intrigued by this.

I have 930 cvs and midboards on my car right now and my cv angle is very good, it's low 20's at full droop. You say the cv angles with 2 adapters only adds 3 degrees?

How much are the adapters and how much to modify my midboard boot flanges?

How much angle can you run with the EMPI 934 cvs without clicking?

And finally, how many of these modifications have you done, and how long have they been in service?

Adapter is $55 each

If you send me the boot flange it is $75 each to modify them, if you send me the full brake about $180 per side to hot tank pull them apart grease the bearings drill modify flange and put back together.

I run them about 26 degrees 28 is about max,   if you keep grease in them they should not click, we can add grease fittings per cv for $50 each

About 5 years now on 3 cars doing another this week if you are very worried we can get the 934 Midboard kit down to $3100 till the end of the month and modify the arms for $400 per side this would come with the CV in the midboard made by Gray Area

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Bringing this back to the top. Seems like I read somewhere that you are now machining the boot flange off of a Tatum midboard  and bolting the 934 directly to the modified boot flange without an adapter?  I don't know where I read that, I may have mistakenly thought that was the case. 

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I though you wanted to run 930's because they are a "fuse" and you'll never break your 2D?

:sarcasm:

My car was built to run 930 micro stubs. I instalked 934's before it ever sat on the tires. Good thing I didn't know I needed new arms when I put it all together. I ended up switching those out for the ProAm HD bearing. The only thing I can't do is run an over boot with a hose clamp.

Also I was quoted $125 to change flanges from 934's to 930's on a 2D a few years back for a different project. Probably be a bit more to go the other way. 

I do like the idea of these for a trans swap to not have to change the wheel side, at lest right away.  Be a good switch for bigger cars that eats 930's and a good way to step up to a bigger tranny in stages.

It is a provent concept, back in the old VW days we'd weld type 4 flanges to type 1's. 

:thumbup:

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10 hours ago, fortyfour said:

Bringing this back to the top. Seems like I read somewhere that you are now machining the boot flange off of a Tatum midboard  and bolting the 934 directly to the modified boot flange without an adapter?  I don't know where I read that, I may have mistakenly thought that was the case. 

Yes you can send us the boot flange from the midboard to make it the same as say a buckshot brake setup, or you can have someone drill it,  the last one we did we machined the boot flanges off and drill straight through the flange to use a solid bolt, will add pics or we can do the full setup

 

2 hours ago, SANDPSYCHO said:

I though you wanted to run 930's because they are a "fuse" and you'll never break your 2D?

:sarcasm:

My car was built to run 930 micro stubs. I instalked 934's before it ever sat on the tires. Good thing I didn't know I needed new arms when I put it all together. I ended up switching those out for the ProAm HD bearing. The only thing I can't do is run an over boot with a hose clamp.

Also I was quoted $125 to change flanges from 934's to 930's on a 2D a few years back for a different project. Probably be a bit more to go the other way. 

I do like the idea of these for a trans swap to not have to change the wheel side, at lest right away.  Be a good switch for bigger cars that eats 930's and a good way to step up to a bigger tranny in stages.

It is a provent concept, back in the old VW days we'd weld type 4 flanges to type 1's. 

:thumbup:

yes good way to do in stages, for example we just did a car with a 2D, he ran it for about a year, then went to a S4, and when he sold the 2D the person wanted 930's so he was out very little on the conversion

IMG_6783.JPG

IMG_6782.JPG

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nice thing is the cup end to end is the same so

AGDS9118.JPG

MAAS1178.JPG

LIAG6042.JPG

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5 hours ago, SANDPSYCHO said:

I though you wanted to run 930's because they are a "fuse" and you'll never break your 2D?

:sarcasm:

 

Sorry that wasn't me. I've got an HV24.

Just exploring some options while the car is apart right now. 

So even with the boot flanges machined off the adapters will still be required? I was thinking you could machine the boot flanges off and drill them for a direct bolt on of the 934 joint without an adapter.  

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19 minutes ago, fortyfour said:

Sorry that wasn't me. I've got an HV24.

Just exploring some options while the car is apart right now. 

So even with the boot flanges machined off the adapters will still be required? I was thinking you could machine the boot flanges off and drill them for a direct bolt on of the 934 joint without an adapter.  

My sarcastic comment wasn't directed at you or any one person. I have heard it so many time and it really is a false believe. I know a few people with 930's that are fine and a bill to replace every thing inside thier 2D case. :lol:

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On ‎8‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 6:27 AM, SANDPSYCHO said:

I though you wanted to run 930's because they are a "fuse" and you'll never break your 2D?

:sarcasm:

My car was built to run 930 micro stubs. I instalked 934's before it ever sat on the tires. Good thing I didn't know I needed new arms when I put it all together. I ended up switching those out for the ProAm HD bearing. The only thing I can't do is run an over boot with a hose clamp.

Also I was quoted $125 to change flanges from 934's to 930's on a 2D a few years back for a different project. Probably be a bit more to go the other way. 

I do like the idea of these for a trans swap to not have to change the wheel side, at lest right away.  Be a good switch for bigger cars that eats 930's and a good way to step up to a bigger tranny in stages.

It is a provent concept, back in the old VW days we'd weld type 4 flanges to type 1's. 

:thumbup:

I love that comment, I had one person told me the fuse thing, and I told him, just cut the axle in half and run a tube over it, lol,

I guess for me I don't want anything to break,

my 2D was built by RC trans, ran 2 years on a ls3 stroked to a 415 dropping the clutch for wheelies, never broke the trans or the CVs,  after the seasons everyting was pitted but never broke, so when I hear the Fuse comments I want to slap people, it cracks me up,

On ‎8‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 12:33 PM, fortyfour said:

Sorry that wasn't me. I've got an HV24.

Just exploring some options while the car is apart right now. 

So even with the boot flanges machined off the adapters will still be required? I was thinking you could machine the boot flanges off and drill them for a direct bolt on of the 934 joint without an adapter.  

you can make a full new boot flange instead of the adapter, but for the cost, then I think a Micro stub kit with the correct shaft might be the same price,

one issue is you would have a large piece of chromoly for the flange for one piece,

machining off the boot part and running threw bolts all the way through the brakes works perfect,   now you have a super strong break, this is pretty much how the Buckshot bakes are made

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