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urclever

brake bleeding on my BFD revo

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So I have crap for brakes. I have just bled them with a power bleeder. the rears have 4 bleeder valves on it and 2 each on the fronts. I started on the passenger rear and went around the car. Did all of the valvles and now I have no freaking pedal. Anyone have any ideas? I am thinking of just replacing the master or try the old fashion way of bleeding the brakes?

Edited by urclever

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If you were bleeding Schrader valves, then you were probably messing with your tires.

Brakes don't have Schrader valves.

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2 hours ago, socaldmax said:

If you were bleeding Schrader valves, then you were probably messing with your tires.

Brakes don't have Schrader valves.

Fixed.. now any input on how to fix the issue.

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What air pressure are you running? Should be 5lbs or less or you might be pumping air into the system.

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You didn't run the reservoir dry while pumping the fluid thru, did you? That will put air in your brake lines. Also, if you have cutting brakes, those need to be bled as well.

 

On edit: I've never seen a brake caliper with 4 bleeder valves. The only brakes I've ever seen were on my own vehicles, but all of them only had 1 bleeder valve per caliper. It looks a lot like a zerk fitting.

Edited by socaldmax

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1 hour ago, socaldmax said:

You didn't run the reservoir dry while pumping the fluid thru, did you? That will put air in your brake lines. Also, if you have cutting brakes, those need to be bled as well.

 

On edit: I've never seen a brake caliper with 4 bleeder valves. The only brakes I've ever seen were on my own vehicles, but all of them only had 1 bleeder valve per caliper. It looks a lot like a zerk fitting.

Quite a few of them have 4.  I have 2 piston Wilwoods with 4 bleeders.

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I had a revo and had the same issue. The fix was a different master cylinder if I recall. Let me ponder on this as it's fuzzy.

Can you post a pic of the linkage cylinder mess bfd designed to help jog my memory please.

But yes, brakes were a joke.

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Same on mine.  

Had to go a size bigger on the master cylinder and also add the residual valve.

I also added a proportioning valve but didn’t need it after I swapped the master and I later pulled it back out.

I used a power bleeder and it went super smooth.

I only bled the top 2 bleeders. Inside first then the outside last on the calipers.

 

works tons better with the bigger master.

 

 

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1 hour ago, nyceguy01 said:

Same on mine.  

Had to go a size bigger on the master cylinder and also add the residual valve.

I also added a proportioning valve but didn’t need it after I swapped the master and I later pulled it back out.

I used a power bleeder and it went super smooth.

I only bled the top 2 bleeders. Inside first then the outside last on the calipers.

 

works tons better with the bigger master.

 

 

Thanks i talked to the fune peeps at BFD and said bleeding is a biatch and start with power bleeding to prime and use the old fashion way.  I never let the reservior go under 3/4 as it disnt pull more than that. He did also say dont touch the bottom bleeders. He did also recommend going to a 1" tilton.  What master did you go with? What power bleeder did you use, as i used the cheap harbor freight one?

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I just walked out in the shop and I’m running a 1” CNC  now ( my seat is already out so I could look pretty easy ).

 

the harbor freight one sucks. I use a Motiv, it forces the fluid from the reservoir through the entire system. Super easy and works great, it has different adapters you can buy for different reservoirs etc...

my buddy accomplished the same thing by drilling a hole and installing a tire valve stem in his reservoir lid, he just bought a cheap low psi regulator from harbor freight to keep the PSI down. It works good but you have to keep filling the reservoir every 2 minutes..lol   I dump 4 bottles of brake fluid in mine and go. All 4 bled in 20 minutes...

 

In the end the too small master is what causes the squishy pedal. Once you swap that you will be good to go I bet.

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not sure if it will help

but when I power bleed if using cutting brakes dual lever,  while bleeding I pull hard on the lever to force air out the while it is still power bleeding I let up on the lever slowly so it will fill with fluid to make sure it does not pull air past the seals,

I will do this a couple of times with the cutting brakes

 

on my car crazy super pedal stiff,  the cutting brakes are mounted to soft lines so I pull out the cutting brakes and turn the with the handles up so all the air comes out and tap them with a mallet and move the cutting brakes around when bleeding,   it is a pain but pedal is crazy stiff

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Looks like a simple swap to a 1inch but will the brake switch fit the 1inch the same as the existing one.

20181228_140915.jpg

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Do yourself a favor and get rid of that whole brake assembly.  This is how you fix the brakes in a BFD Revo

IMG_8312.jpeg

IMG_8379.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

 so after some help from fellow GD member LRS . I decided to blow out the lines witg LRS recommendation and  i found a whole bunch of buildup and junk in the lines. Refilled with fresh fluid and bled  until constant fluid came out and now I have a very stiff pedal. but I also learned that the previous owner had labeled the reservoirs backwards. 🤔😭😭😭💵

20190104_142754.jpg

20190104_144913.jpg

20190104_172846.jpg

Edited by urclever

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Power bleeding works great, vacuum bleeding not so much on these systems. Make sure your bleaders are straight up, if that means taking them off and putting metal between pads to bleed them. 

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Glad I could help you get it solved bro. With that amount of crap in the brake lines I'd recommend blowing put the clutch line too. See you in Glamis in a few weeks!

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