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Building up a new chassis and strongly considering it. Anyone else use it?

 

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I know a lot of desert people use it, wondering how it holds up to the sand blasting that is Glamis. 

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There was a thread here not long ago bout  guy rebuilding a car.  He talked about it in the thread.

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Look for Acefuture.  He did a thread about the rebuild of his desert dynamics

 

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They just started making it in black too

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Posted (edited)

Kevin McMullen used it on Conner McMullens new Alumacraft 10 car.  I saw it before the first race and after he won his class in the Vegas to Reno race and it still looked great.  Any place that was damaged they just touched up with a spray can of the stuff.  Pretty amazing paint if it can hold up to Baja.

Screen Shot 2019-01-04 at 9.30.37 PM.png

Edited by fmyth

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I just used it on my trailing arms that I modified. I like it. I found, as stated on the can to do multiple light coats works best. When painting , it  would look blotchy but as it dried it made a nice even  coat. I used one can for two arms. I like it so much I have thought about taking front arms and tie rods off and coating them also. 

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I think you can get a sample can on their website.  I go one, but have not had a chance to try it out.

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Greatest rattle can paint ever invented. Lasts a long time and can be welded over.  We buy it and have our paint guy spray the front and rear arms on the Class 1 car. There are a few other options out there for half the cost of actual Steel It. But Steel It now comes in black. And once you go black...

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Need to redo the undercoat of my trailer. Was thinking about trying this stuff out.

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1 hour ago, L.R.S. said:

Greatest rattle can paint ever invented. Lasts a long time and can be welded over.  We buy it and have our paint guy spray the front and rear arms on the Class 1 car. There are a few other options out there for half the cost of actual Steel It. But Steel It now comes in black. And once you go black...

Do the cheaper alternatives work as well though? 

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Posted (edited)

I don't care for the product on major components and frames because it still looks like spray paint. It would really suck to invest a couple of hundred bucks and many hours of time in rattle canning your frame with steel-it and then realizing it looked like it was rattle canned. Not knocking those that have used it, if you like it that's all that matters it's just not my thing.

^^All this coming from the guy who's car is rusty because it's still bare metal haha. 

Edited by fortyfour

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We've used it on a couple trophy truck and 10 car chassis and absolutely love it. Not cheap by any means, but badass that you can weld right to it

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Ace Future used it on his new build and he really likes it.

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I do like the fact it can be welded over.   Mig is fine but I don't know about tig.  I used it on my 2D to PBS s4 swap and it worked good.  Power wire brush will remove it.   

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You can make a rattle can look like it's not with it, just takes a little practice. Me coming from auto refinish back ground found it to be one of the best of rattle can finishes I've seen.

IMG_1379.JPG

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27 minutes ago, stumpalump said:

Didn't see a primer application in the instructions. Just 4 coats.

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9 hours ago, Rockwood said:

Do the cheaper alternatives work as well though? 

Yes they do. @Householder uses the Seymour stainless paint on his Trophy Truck and it works great at half the price of Steel It. I bought some and use it on my prerunner. So far I'm happy with it.

Screenshot_20190105-081733_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Screenshot_20190105-082027_Chrome.jpg

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, fortyfour said:

I don't care for the product on major components and frames because it still looks like spray paint. It would really suck to invest a couple of hundred bucks and many hours of time in rattle canning your frame with steel-it and then realizing it looked like it was rattle canned. Not knocking those that have used it, if you like it that's all that matters it's just not my thing.

^^All this coming from the guy who's car is rusty because it's still bare metal haha. 

They sell it in gallons so you can lay it down with a gun as well. 

My biggest problems are:

1. I’m rocking an overpowered mid-travel beam car in a group of Desert Dynamics V8 cars. This means frame cracking is a part of life for me. Powder is nice, but repairs to it aren’t, and cracks tend to hide until it’s waaaaaay too late. While I could upgrade in the travel department, I don’t like the way those cars handle and more importantly, I’m cheap. :bigrin 

2. I’m sure sometime in the future I’ll want to change something, and again, changing shit with powder sucks. 

31 minutes ago, L.R.S. said:

Yes they do. @Householder uses the Seymour stainless paint on his Trophy Truck and it works great at half the price of Steel It. I bought some and use it on my prerunner. So far I'm happy with it.

Screenshot_20190105-081733_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Screenshot_20190105-082027_Chrome.jpg

Nice! Good price on their site, but probably charge for shipping:

http://www.seymourpaint.com/product/stainless-steel/

Edited by Rockwood

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32 minutes ago, Air450 said:

Didn't see a primer application in the instructions. Just 4 coats.

Primer

http://www.steel-it.com/polyurethane-stainless-steel-coatings-10

FWIW Rustoleum makes a similar paint product as well. 

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/industrial-brands/high-performance/urethane-coatings/steel-tech-aerosol

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Good info here guys. Following

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How does it hold up? Thinking about using on my rear arms as well as they get sandblasted. Even powder gets nailed hard. 

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I did my car in it over of the summer before the rebuild. It is a fantastic product. After 3 trips the font arms started showing signs of wear so I whipped out the can and hit it again without pulling anything off. After another trip it looks fantastic. I highly suggest it. It cost me $430 to do my whole car but you could do it for cheaper if you bought it by the gallon. I also sprayed a few misc parts on my car with Seymour. It’s a great product but is a different sheen and color than steel it. I can’t comment on the durability of the Seymour because the parts it’s on are sheltered. As fourtyfour mentioned, its not as nice as powder. My pops black powdered car looks much nicer than mine, but living at the beach my car could not stay raw because it rusts in under 30 minutes. I went the steel it route because I knew I was going to need to do someone upgrades and welding. Last trip I cracked a shock mount, pulled out the welder and fixed it, then sprayed right over it. You’d never even know it happened. Only thing I’m bummed about is they released black like 3 months after I finished my car haha. Oh well 

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Hard to see cracks with black though. :bigrin 

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