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rpmsrup

what oil to run in LS1

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Hey guys im sure this has already been discussed what oil weight is everyone running in there LS1

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20W50 valvoline. 

Lots of Zinc. Good for bearings. 

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Posted (edited)

I Run 10W40 in my stroker LS3 and some friends run straight 40W and others 5W30 and even 20W50. guess you need to see how the oil performers for your driving.  

Edited by BRINGENKAOS

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20w50 castrol was recommended when my s&s was built 

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Always best to ask the engine builder. 

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ok thanks guys. its a stock motor out of a camaro

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45 minutes ago, rpmsrup said:

ok thanks guys. its a stock motor out of a camaro

Use what @lincster posted. Valvoline VR1 20-50 racing oil.  It's non synthetic. This is what @CBM runs in almost all their engines. Same pip in my prerunner and the majority of the cars I prep.

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GM stock engine spec is 5w-30

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3 hours ago, rpmsrup said:

Hey guys im sure this has already been discussed what oil weight is everyone running in there LS1

0-40 is a great oil especially for a higher mileage motor, 20-50 is a old school repair look at oils, great oil to sell a motor,

the ls motors are not really made for the 20-50 we are doing a motor now that was 20-50 and the motor is destroyed inside,

20-50 will hold in allot of air at high rpm,  the LS motor has a gearator oil pump is was not designed for thick oil at high RPM, so with a 20-50 just don't get the R's over 4800 and it will lubricate well

 

at the end of the day bearing clearance and oil pump selection makes the biggest difference, you wan the thinnest oil with still holding good pressure,

with the motor at its hottest point on a full rev I like to see 48lbs or better, 58lbs is really good, at this same heat I really do not like to see under 28lbs at idle,

so with your oil change if you can go thinner it will produce less heat in the motor due to friction with the clearances, so I start with a 0-40 and move from there down,

I have ran the 15-50 mobil one but do not use this in anything over 5800 rpms

 

 

if you look at the RAT540 report it has allot of testing on oils it is a good start,  

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Posted (edited)

After breaking a gearator first trip of the season, I have a fresh LS  from CBM,  was told to run theVR1 20-50                                                                                                                                                            

I do get happy on occasion, keeping it under 4800 would be difficult.  May have to re-think this and the intake temp thing.

Edited by JKR951
Spacing

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Posted (edited)

The LS2 that I just put together is all stock and I started the engine and broke it in with conventional 10w-30, for the dunes I use 10w-30 Mobil 1.  My hot oil pressure is around 25 at idle and near 50 at any rpm over 3000.

My bearing clearances were .0015 for both the rods and mains with a brand new crank and standard clevite 77 bearings, I think 20w-50 was a little too thick for my engine.

It almost depends on what condition your engine is in, a high mile engine could probably get away with thicker oil while a new tight engine would appreciate the thinner stuff.  All good advice here so far.

Edited by fortyfour

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this is great info for sure. thanks guys 

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30 minutes ago, fortyfour said:

The LS2 that I just put together is all stock and I started the engine and broke it in with conventional 10w-30, for the dunes I use 10w-30 Mobil 1.  My hot oil pressure is around 25 at idle and near 50 at any rpm over 3000.

My bearing clearances were .0015 for both the rods and mains with a brand new crank and standard clevite 77 bearings, I think 20w-50 was a little too thick for my engine.

It almost depends on what condition your engine is in, a high mile engine could probably get away with thicker oil while a new tight engine would appreciate the thinner stuff.  All good advice here so far.

 

Stroked LS1 and run 10w30, tried 5w30 thought Oil Pressure was too low I see the same Pressures as 44 said, and that seems to run well with my car

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Delo 400. On sale at Costco right now.

8843476_LRG.jpg&f=1

Edited by Air450

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Posted (edited)

Ah yes, Delo 400.  All of my buddies used to run that dino oil in their supercharged 500+ ci boat engines back in the day. It is really good stuff, very inexpensive too. $15 a gallon or something like that.  

Edited by fortyfour

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11 minutes ago, Air450 said:

Delo 400. On sale at Costco right now.

8843476_LRG.jpg&f=1

This is not back in the day,

do not run Delo in your sand car motor,

they have high detergents and are not made for gerator style pumps, put it In a BBC or older SBC fine but not in a modern motor,

the European, have a higher standard and ratings than the US brands, if it has a Euro rating on it like a Mobil one European car oils than you are in better hands  

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1 hour ago, J Alper said:

0-40 is a great oil especially for a higher mileage motor, 20-50 is a old school repair look at oils, great oil to sell a motor,

the ls motors are not really made for the 20-50 we are doing a motor now that was 20-50 and the motor is destroyed inside,

20-50 will hold in allot of air at high rpm,  the LS motor has a gearator oil pump is was not designed for thick oil at high RPM, so with a 20-50 just don't get the R's over 4800 and it will lubricate well

 

at the end of the day bearing clearance and oil pump selection makes the biggest difference, you wan the thinnest oil with still holding good pressure,

with the motor at its hottest point on a full rev I like to see 48lbs or better, 58lbs is really good, at this same heat I really do not like to see under 28lbs at idle,

so with your oil change if you can go thinner it will produce less heat in the motor due to friction with the clearances, so I start with a 0-40 and move from there down,

I have ran the 15-50 mobil one but do not use this in anything over 5800 rpms

 

 

if you look at the RAT540 report it has allot of testing on oils it is a good start,  

My 416 built by Jason runs 0w-40 Mobil1 European full synthetic purchased off Amazon 

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120760-Synthetic-Motor-0W-40/dp/B00HG76A9A

45-50psi hot at idle, 70-75 psi at 6000 rpm

 

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3 minutes ago, J Alper said:

This is not back in the day

Lol.

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Ran it in my CBM 425 Stroker for 5 years/5000 miles and everything was perfect inside when Redline tore it down for the new whipple. Regular oil pan and pump on it. Now has a dry sump.

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every motor we take apart we dissect why does the bearing look like this what did the previous person due when the bearing or the pump was installed,

we will spend hours and days to make sure bearing are seated and checked, we will go threw 2-3 sets of bearings, we also will have stacks of matched bearings on clearances, and varies on torque specs for each rod checked with .0005 dial mic with a 50 graqdation with a max of .005 on my dial, this makes a difference,

our pumps are also checked with gauges and we have a custom oil spring made from mellings

this is made for us from mellings small stuff like custom porting and very custom spring makes a difference our sand car motors last for years,  we have pulled apart our motor, even up to 5 years later and the bearing looked untouched

the style and the viscosity make a huge difference

More expensive oil does not help, the style and the viscosity does,

we have used pure race oil with bad results real pure race oils at $30-40 a quart destroyed a motor, for a race car that great, run 30 -200 laps with zero heat cycle and change the oil, then rebuild the motor

race oils have no detergents , so they might lube better at first but no cleaning properties, so they need to be changed daily or ever couple of days, with little heat cycles,

 

check out the report might help make heads or tails

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

 

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10 minutes ago, Air450 said:

Ran it in my CBM 425 Stroker for 5 years/5000 miles and everything was perfect inside when Redline tore it down for the new whipple. Regular oil pan and pump on it. Now has a dry sump.

 

I am sorry but being a 425, not using a ls7 block and that oil, I just don't believe was perfect inside, not calling you a liar but feel our idea inside a motor is different,

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4 hours ago, J Alper said:

0-40 is a great oil especially for a higher mileage motor, 20-50 is a old school repair look at oils, great oil to sell a motor,

the ls motors are not really made for the 20-50 we are doing a motor now that was 20-50 and the motor is destroyed inside,

20-50 will hold in allot of air at high rpm,  the LS motor has a gearator oil pump is was not designed for thick oil at high RPM, so with a 20-50 just don't get the R's over 4800 and it will lubricate well

 

at the end of the day bearing clearance and oil pump selection makes the biggest difference, you wan the thinnest oil with still holding good pressure,

with the motor at its hottest point on a full rev I like to see 48lbs or better, 58lbs is really good, at this same heat I really do not like to see under 28lbs at idle,

so with your oil change if you can go thinner it will produce less heat in the motor due to friction with the clearances, so I start with a 0-40 and move from there down,

I have ran the 15-50 mobil one but do not use this in anything over 5800 rpms

 

 

if you look at the RAT540 report it has allot of testing on oils it is a good start,  

I ran 20W50 in my bone stock ls1 for 11 seasons. When CBM tore it down, bearings looked just fine. 

My engine builder said to run 20W50 and my redline is 6100 rpm. No issues. 

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Filled this @CBM built Whipple super charged engine with some Valvoline VR1 20-50 Racing engine oil tonight.

 

20190108_165944.jpg

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4 hours ago, J Alper said:

 

I am sorry but being a 425, not using a ls7 block and that oil, I just don't believe was perfect inside, not calling you a liar but feel our idea inside a motor is different,

Sorry it wasn't perfect per say. But was very nice inside for the time it had in the sand.

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Posted (edited)

we have about 10 board members using mobil 1 with 0-40 and the some are on the revlimit all the time and still going over 7 years on the same 416 builds 427 build, we just pulled apart a motor that was ran on VR1 and we can only use the Rods in it

it has the worst cam bearings I have ever seen, one was spun, and was sold as a good motor,

I use to love Valvoline and the top fuel car beat out the bearing, they went with mobil 1 and was a huge difference, the Valvoline looked like it was a foam party,

 

just trying to help you guys out, the oil in these cars make a difference, if we did not build it run what you want,

 

Edited by J Alper

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