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kingkong

Steering rack nonsense

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So the tierod bolt decided it wanta to come out on me last trip and it stripped it out.. does anyone know if I can buy just the front piece of this box??? Its a desertdynamics 

20190111_211629.jpg

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Can you just do a heli-coil to repair ? 

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Anybody with a CNC can make it I'm sure. 

DD probably sells it or can make it. 

Had Howe make me one back in the day, not cheap, around $1100 IIRC for a huge beefy piece. You can also have one made out of chromoly for significantly cheaper but generally not as strong. Also probably much cheaper now...

Holy crap that was a long time ago: 

 

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13 hours ago, DTA said:

Anybody with a CNC can make it I'm sure. 

DD probably sells it or can make it. 

Had Howe make me one back in the day, not cheap, around $1100 IIRC for a huge beefy piece. You can also have one made out of chromoly for significantly cheaper but generally not as strong. Also probably much cheaper now...

Holy crap that was a long time ago: 

 

Yeah found the in tire box for 5 lol but not the spreader alone that's bull crap lol 

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12 hours ago, kingkong said:

Yeah found the in tire box for 5 lol but not the spreader alone that's bull crap lol 

That really doesnt sound like a bad deal. Throw the old one in the pit box and keep as spare? Keep those bolts tight and loctited next time and will probably never have the issue again. Go f911 as well.

Call Proam or Mckenzies direct I'm sure they can help you out. 

 

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1 hour ago, DTA said:

That really doesnt sound like a bad deal. Throw the old one in the pit box and keep as spare? Keep those bolts tight and loctited next time and will probably never have the issue again. Go f911 as well.

Call Proam or Mckenzies direct I'm sure they can help you out. 

 

Yeah thinking about it only reason it stripped out cause the bolts that were in it were holding on with 2 threads lol lasted 5 years like that lol bought it like that not my build

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13 hours ago, DTA said:

Anybody with a CNC can make it I'm sure. 

DD probably sells it or can make it. 

Had Howe make me one back in the day, not cheap, around $1100 IIRC for a huge beefy piece. You can also have one made out of chromoly for significantly cheaper but generally not as strong. Also probably much cheaper now...

Holy crap that was a long time ago: 

 

Where's this coming from?  Last time I checked Chromoly was a bunch stronger then aluminum.

KingKong

That is a 40$ hime spreader from Latest Rage on a center load rack from Latest Rage or any of the dune buggy parts suppliers.   

 

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5 hours ago, fastcorvairs said:

Where's this coming from?  Last time I checked Chromoly was a bunch stronger then aluminum.

KingKong

That is a 40$ hime spreader from Latest Rage on a center load rack from Latest Rage or any of the dune buggy parts suppliers.   

 

Personal experience I guess. 

My tig welded chromoly tie rod mount broke at 70mph on gypsum rd in plaster city during an mdr race causing me to do an instant 180 and almost wading up. Usually the chromoly welded mounts aren't bullet, I guess if it were billet chromoly it would be way stronger than aluminum? Never seen one though.

Went to that billet piece above, never had an issue, that piece went through a few wrecks, one really bad one. Many miles of racing, testing and pre running and never an issue. I'm pretty sure that piece is still on the truck today with no issues.

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stop for a second and think this threw it is really easy to fix correctly for offroad

use a flat top allen bolt, counter sink the back side and then put a nut on the front side opposite of the steering box, that is how we do all the DD car,

the you have a nut and bolt system

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14 hours ago, kingkong said:

So the tierod bolt decided it wanta to come out on me last trip and it stripped it out.. does anyone know if I can buy just the front piece of this box??? Its a desertdynamics 

20190111_211629.jpg

Have it welded, then drill and tap.

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2 hours ago, DTA said:

Personal experience I guess. 

My tig welded chromoly tie rod mount broke at 70mph on gypsum rd in plaster city during an mdr race causing me to do an instant 180 and almost wading up. Usually the chromoly welded mounts aren't bullet, I guess if it were billet chromoly it would be way stronger than aluminum? Never seen one though.

Went to that billet piece above, never had an issue, that piece went through a few wrecks, one really bad one. Many miles of racing, testing and pre running and never an issue. I'm pretty sure that piece is still on the truck today with no issues.

Gypsum rd in plaster city is about as rough as it gets :lol: lots of cars (and backs) break on that rd. Especially up around the notch. Chromolly breaks rather than bend. Sometimes its better when things bend. Im betting this was loosely tapped, and the grade 8 vs alumn, the grade 8 won. Kingkong, just helicoil it like suggested, get a longer bolt and carry on. With the inserted threads i would doubt you have this issue again. If you cant helicoil due to the double shear design you can always weld it shut and redrill/tap it. Tap it tighter this time (smallest appropriate initial drill bit)

Edited by sausage450r

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9 minutes ago, sausage450r said:

Gypsum rd in plaster city is about as rough as it gets :lol: lots of cars (and backs) break on that rd. Especially up around the notch. Chromolly breaks rather than bend. Sometimes its better when things bend. Im betting this was loosely tapped, and the grade 8 vs alumn, the grade 8 won. Kingkong, just helicoil it like suggested, get a longer bolt and carry on. With the inserted threads i would doubt you have this issue again. If you cant helicoil due to the double shear design you can always weld it shut and redrill/tap it. Tap it tighter this time (smallest appropriate initial drill bit)

Yes, Gypsum is the king of shit. Awfully fun trying to get on top though. When you do 5-6 laps it can get a bit tiring lol. 

I lost the steering just before the notch if I recall correctly. 

If this piece is actually only $40 as stated above I would just get a new one.

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1 hour ago, J Alper said:

stop for a second and think this threw it is really easy to fix correctly for offroad

use a flat top allen bolt, counter sink the back side and then put a nut on the front side opposite of the steering box, that is how we do all the DD car,

the you have a nut and bolt system

This ^^^^

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I still think a Heli- coil . The insert will create more thread surface in aluminum being its now larger dia than original 1/2 bolt 

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1 hour ago, cali kid said:

stop for a second and think this threw it is really easy to fix correctly for offroad

use a flat top allen bolt, counter sink the back side and then put a nut on the front side opposite of the steering box, that is how we do all the DD car,

the you have a nut and bolt system

This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

that way you have a threw bolt that can not strip out and you can check the nuts, and not have to worry about aluminum threads just metal on metal

allen on the back side against the steering block and then you will see the nuts facing the bumper 

will need a drill bit 82* to correctly countersink

shopping.jpg

images.jpg

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3 hours ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Have it welded, then drill and tap.

 

 

this would make a weak thread the aluminum would not be T-6 anymore we do not want another buggy VS SXS thread,

make it strong, it is your steering

 

counter sunk bolt, I have had 3 DD cars this will be a permanent fix  

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51 minutes ago, J Alper said:

 

 

this would make a weak thread the aluminum would not be T-6 anymore we do not want another buggy VS SXS thread,

make it strong, it is your steering

 

counter sunk bolt, I have had 3 DD cars this will be a permanent fix  

He drove around for 5 years with 2 threads holding it in.

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11 hours ago, fastcorvairs said:

Where's this coming from?  Last time I checked Chromoly was a bunch stronger then aluminum.

KingKong

That is a 40$ hime spreader from Latest Rage on a center load rack from Latest Rage or any of the dune buggy parts suppliers.   

 

I'm gonna order one Monday seen that thanks

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4 hours ago, J Alper said:

stop for a second and think this threw it is really easy to fix correctly for offroad

use a flat top allen bolt, counter sink the back side and then put a nut on the front side opposite of the steering box, that is how we do all the DD car,

the you have a nut and bolt system

That's a damn good idea as well 

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Dave was American billet, so I threw away my last latest rage was not very good threads

if you get any of them drill out the back and use a flush, bolt and nut,

 

Damn you guys at Glamis are Dangerous, this stuff would never fly at Dumont

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1 hour ago, kingkong said:

I'm gonna order one Monday seen that thanks

I would double check that. I know that car you bought it from Mike @deslboy and he wouldn’t put cheap Latest Rage Chinese crap. That has to be a Pro Am rack and like @J Alper mention Dave made his spreaders out of good chit. I would just do the counter sink bolts and call it good. 

Edited by cali kid

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6 hours ago, cali kid said:

I would double check that. I know that car you bought it from Mike @deslboy and he wouldn’t put cheap Latest Rage Chinese crap. That has to be a Pro Am rack and like @J Alper mention Dave made his spreaders out of good chit. I would just do the counter sink bolts and call it good. 

I'm just gonna counter sink it I talked to mike already I know this car has no cheap ass shit on it that's for sure.

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19 hours ago, J Alper said:

 

that way you have a threw bolt that can not strip out and you can check the nuts, and not have to worry about aluminum threads just metal on metal

allen on the back side against the steering block and then you will see the nuts facing the bumper 

will need a drill bit 82* to correctly countersink

shopping.jpg

images.jpg

Best way to do it. 

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If I were going to use a counter sunk bolt I would drill all the threads out.  Both flanges.   Tightening/torqueing by the nut.

The taper  head will usually have enough frictional bind that if you tighten by the bolt head only it will still be kinda loose. 

If you don't remove the threads, and tighten the nut, you are only tensioning the part between the threaded flange and the nut.   Not the whole length of the fastener.

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