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Here's the deal with the cable on the Rugged RM-60V.  The Rugged comes stock with the mini XLR connector that is needed to connect directly to the Rugged intercom.  It's a nice clean setup (see the pic of the white radio).  The TYT TH-9000D is the exact same radio, but does not have this cable installed.  If you buy the Rugged harness posted above, you have to run part of that cable around to the front of the radio and plug it into the port where the handheld mic would normally go.  I'm sure it works fine, but it's just not as clean.  I recently purchased the TYT radio and added the intercom connector myself (see the pic of the black radio).  It was pretty straightforward to do.  All of the connections are made to a 6 pin connector on the main board inside.  Once I have a trip under my belt with the TYT radio and I confirm everything works perfectly, I'll be selling my 6 month old Rugged RM-60V.  While I appreciate the support that Rugged offers, I'm frustrated by how locked-down the radios are. On the current radios (like my RM-60V) you can't even manually select a frequency.

Where'd you get the cable?  did you take any pics of where to solder the wires or just use the rm60 as a guide?

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On ‎1‎/‎29‎/‎2019 at 8:37 PM, realbadlarry said:

Where'd you get the cable?  did you take any pics of where to solder the wires or just use the rm60 as a guide?

The connector that best fits the plug on the radio board is TE Connectivity Part #2058943-5. Just google "2058943-5" and you'll see it available at DigiKey and a bunch of other places.  The 5 pin Mini XLR connector that plugs into the intercom is available from lots of places, including Rugged.  Here are my notes for the pin mapping from the 5 pin mini XLR to the radio board.

THIS SETUP DIDN'T WORK WELL. SEE MY REVISED SETUP A FEW POSTS DOWN.

 

 

 

Edited by kazuaki

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Coolness, I owe you  for this... so what did you do with the red wire?  looks like its hooked to the blue on here?

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4 minutes ago, realbadlarry said:

Coolness, I owe you  for this... so what did you do with the red wire?  looks like its hooked to the blue on here?

Yeah, like I said, that implementation in the pic is for a different purpose (repeater). For the way I am using it (connect to intercom), I'm only using pins 1,2,4, and 5 in the radio board connector. Pin 6 has 5 volts on it, which serves no purpose for intercom use. 

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12 hours ago, kazuaki said:

Here's the deal with the cable on the Rugged RM-60V.  The Rugged comes stock with the mini XLR connector that is needed to connect directly to the Rugged intercom.  It's a nice clean setup (see the pic of the white radio).  The TYT TH-9000D is the exact same radio, but does not have this cable installed.  If you buy the Rugged harness posted above, you have to run part of that cable around to the front of the radio and plug it into the port where the handheld mic would normally go.  I'm sure it works fine, but it's just not as clean.  I recently purchased the TYT radio and added the intercom connector myself (see the pic of the black radio).  It was pretty straightforward to do.  All of the connections are made to a 6 pin connector on the main board inside.  Once I have a trip under my belt with the TYT radio and I confirm everything works perfectly, I'll be selling my 6 month old Rugged RM-60V.  While I appreciate the support that Rugged offers, I'm frustrated by how locked-down the radios are. On the current radios (like my RM-60V) you can't even manually select a frequency.

20190129_195802.thumb.jpg.8a7540da8c6c6ca26bdb79e8046dcdff.jpg

20190129_195811.thumb.jpg.2cee1a3b3d28897311f98a8eadc6325f.jpg

 

Glad to see someone has taken this further down the road then I have so far.

couple of questions.  Where did you get that rear cover plate for the radio.  I think they come with a plastic cover on them.  I see you have 2 little screws and the silver plate with a hole in the center.

Where did you order your Mini XLR connector from you have in this picture?  Did you order it as a pigtail or just solder it to the male end?

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13 minutes ago, r3meyer said:

Glad to see someone has taken this further down the road then I have so far.

couple of questions.  Where did you get that rear cover plate for the radio.  I think they come with a plastic cover on them.  I see you have 2 little screws and the silver plate with a hole in the center.

Where did you order your Mini XLR connector from you have in this picture?  Did you order it as a pigtail or just solder it to the male end?

I just made the plate out of some 1/16" aluminum I had laying around.  The screws are M2.5 size, FYI.  You have a few options on the Mini XLR connector.  I had a harness from Rugged that included the connector, so I just cut it up and used that.  realbadlarry pointed out to me that Rugged has some adapters on clearance that look like they'd be perfect to use for this. They're only $3, but I think they only have a few left.  You can also just buy the bare mini XLR from them for $7. I'm also sure that Amazon and other places have things you could use.

Adapter on clearance:

https://www.ruggedradios.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=706_1222&products_id=1908

Bare mini XLR connector:

https://www.ruggedradios.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=189&products_id=406

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17 minutes ago, kazuaki said:

I just made the plate out of some 1/16" aluminum I had laying around.  The screws are M2.5 size, FYI.  You have a few options on the Mini XLR connector.  I had a harness from Rugged that included the connector, so I just cut it up and used that.  realbadlarry pointed out to me that Rugged has some adapters on clearance that look like they'd be perfect to use for this. They're only $3, but I think they only have a few left.  You can also just buy the bare mini XLR from them for $7. I'm also sure that Amazon and other places have things you could use.

Adapter on clearance:

https://www.ruggedradios.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=706_1222&products_id=1908

Bare mini XLR connector:

https://www.ruggedradios.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=189&products_id=406

Thanks.  Would be awesome once you confirm everything to come back and put a build list together in one spot.

It really is a great radio.

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49 minutes ago, r3meyer said:

Thanks.  Would be awesome once you confirm everything to come back and put a build list together in one spot.

It really is a great radio.

I can do that.

Edited by kazuaki

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OK, I tested out the radio and it had issues.  I had to rework it slightly. My original wiring was based on a few webpages I found with info.  Well, it didn't work well.  There were two issues.  First off, the mic connection was clearly incorrect as there was a loud sound whenever you hit the PTT and tried to speak through the intercom hookup. Second, the output audio was at a very low level.  So, here is the revised version.

Mini XLR
Function Radio Connection
Pin 1 Ground Pin 1 on board connector (towards front of radio)
Pin 2 PTT Pin 5 on board connector
Pin 3 Mic + Backside of faceplate (see red circle in pic)
Pin 4 Speaker + Red speaker wire (connector under power wires)
Pin 5 Speaker - Pin 1 on board connector (towards front of radio)

mini_xlr_pinout.jpg.bd21c8de85b9d54f9a1f9b54b78cc5c2.jpg

 

Here is a picture of the backside of the faceplate.  When you remove the faceplate from the radio, you will see this circuit board in there.  The connection with the rec circle in my picture is what you need to tap into for the Mic + connection.

faceplate1.thumb.jpg.2f440bda471cd99df9080870664b40a3.jpg

 

Here what it looks like once you solder a small wire to this point (this isn't exactly easy to do).

faceplate2.thumb.jpg.b89cf65e2085bb778ab02d2af927c3db.jpg

 

The other connection that needs to be revised is the Speaker +. Instead of going to Pin 4 on the board connector, it is tapper directly into the red speaker wire.  The speaker wires on this radio come off of a connector just under the power wires in the corner of the circuit board (red circled area in pic). As you can see in this picture, only two connections are being used on the board connector at this point. Forgive the messiness of this setup.  If I were doing it all over, I'd make it much cleaner with shorter wires.

complete_radio.thumb.jpg.6f8297ad434bef3f181326b23f1f2f69.jpg

 

So, after all of this, it seems to work perfectly.  I haven't taken it on a drive or anything, but I ran a test talking back and forth between this radio connected to my intercom and my RM-60V that a setup temporarily in my trailer.  With the revised wiring, the output audio was nice and loud and the mic was clear with no extra noises. At this point, the radio is wired exactly like the RM-60V.  I guess I should have just done that from the beginning.  I won't declare this a complete success until after it survives my President's Day trip, but it looks promising.

Edited by kazuaki

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@kazuaki Does this method still allow for the on board speaker to still operate?  I always like to hear someone calling on the radio if we are stopped and not in the car.

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Yes, the built-in speaker still works at the same time as the intercom output.  You are just tapping into the speaker wire, not disconnecting it from the speaker.

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Thanks for everyone's help on programming the UV-5R radios. I got my 2 done and a couple for a friend. I have another question though that I cant seem to find an answer for online anywhere. Is there a way to have just one channel on the display, instead of the two (A-B)? I hear the Rugged model you can switch from just one to 2 and back, but cant seem to find how to do it on the Baofeng? 
Thanks

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1 hour ago, Buggydave said:

Thanks for everyone's help on programming the UV-5R radios. I got my 2 done and a couple for a friend. I have another question though that I cant seem to find an answer for online anywhere. Is there a way to have just one channel on the display, instead of the two (A-B)? I hear the Rugged model you can switch from just one to 2 and back, but cant seem to find how to do it on the Baofeng? 
Thanks

Not sure if this is the answer. On the left of the top line should be an arrow which is the frequency you are on.  If the arrow is at the bottom then you are on that frequency. 

So put arrow on top line and go to whatever frequency you want.

Press A/B which now the arrow should be on bottom and switch that frequency to what u want.

 

By pressing # for about 2 seconds you can lock the keypad. 

Press again for 2 seconds and it unlocks the keypad. 

Hope this is what you wanted.

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I got that part figured out, but what I was wanting to do was only have 1 channel on display instead of 2.  I see on the rugged website the instructions for their little blue ones say theirs come set with just 1 channel on display, but tell you how to switch to 2, but does not seem to be the same on the UV-5R.

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1 hour ago, Buggydave said:

I got that part figured out, but what I was wanting to do was only have 1 channel on display instead of 2.  I see on the rugged website the instructions for their little blue ones say theirs come set with just 1 channel on display, but tell you how to switch to 2, but does not seem to be the same on the UV-5R.

You can make both channels A/B the same frequency and transmit on either one. You can be on A Checkers and I can be on B Checkers and we will transmit to each other.

 

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I get what your saying, and I understand how to do that. Problem is, one of the radios I did was for a friend who is not to, well lets say, umm, technically advantaged, and he does not really get it. I set radio so both A and B show name and told him to just keep both on the same channel, but has already called me 2 times this week asking questions and I am going to do a couple more for a couple of his friends and I know they will be confused, so just want to keep it SUPER simple and have just one channel on the display.

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22 hours ago, Buggydave said:

I get what your saying, and I understand how to do that. Problem is, one of the radios I did was for a friend who is not to, well lets say, umm, technically advantaged, and he does not really get it. I set radio so both A and B show name and told him to just keep both on the same channel, but has already called me 2 times this week asking questions and I am going to do a couple more for a couple of his friends and I know they will be confused, so just want to keep it SUPER simple and have just one channel on the display.

Maybe they shouldn't have a radio and concentrate on driving. 

All kidding aside if they mess with the menu then I see a problem. Everything else is pretty simple especially since you did the hard part.

Try calling Rugged and asking them. They will say the Baofeng is not the same although Rugged is rebranded. 

I searched and didn't find anything of how to make it to 1 line. 

There is a Baofeng app that you can download. Maybe that can help.

On Amazon there is Baofeng Tech who actually sells and fixes Baofeng radios but only if bought from them. Might want to ask them.

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On 2/1/2019 at 4:28 PM, kazuaki said:

OK, I tested out the radio and it had issues.  I had to rework it slightly. My original wiring was based on a few webpages I found with info.  Well, it didn't work well.  There were two issues.  First off, the mic connection was clearly incorrect as there was a loud sound whenever you hit the PTT and tried to speak through the intercom hookup. Second, the output audio was at a very low level.  So, here is the revised version.

Mini XLR
Function Radio Connection
Pin 1 Ground Pin 1 on board connector (towards front of radio)
Pin 2 PTT Pin 5 on board connector
Pin 3 Mic + Backside of faceplate (see red circle in pic)
Pin 4 Speaker + Red speaker wire (connector under power wires)
Pin 5 Speaker - Pin 1 on board connector (towards front of radio)

mini_xlr_pinout.jpg.bd21c8de85b9d54f9a1f9b54b78cc5c2.jpg

 

Here is a picture of the backside of the faceplate.  When you remove the faceplate from the radio, you will see this circuit board in there.  The connection with the rec circle in my picture is what you need to tap into for the Mic + connection.

faceplate1.thumb.jpg.2f440bda471cd99df9080870664b40a3.jpg

 

Here what it looks like once you solder a small wire to this point (this isn't exactly easy to do).

faceplate2.thumb.jpg.b89cf65e2085bb778ab02d2af927c3db.jpg

 

The other connection that needs to be revised is the Speaker +. Instead of going to Pin 4 on the board connector, it is tapper directly into the red speaker wire.  The speaker wires on this radio come off of a connector just under the power wires in the corner of the circuit board (red circled area in pic). As you can see in this picture, only two connections are being used on the board connector at this point. Forgive the messiness of this setup.  If I were doing it all over, I'd make it much cleaner with shorter wires.

complete_radio.thumb.jpg.6f8297ad434bef3f181326b23f1f2f69.jpg

 

So, after all of this, it seems to work perfectly.  I haven't taken it on a drive or anything, but I ran a test talking back and forth between this radio connected to my intercom and my RM-60V that a setup temporarily in my trailer.  With the revised wiring, the output audio was nice and loud and the mic was clear with no extra noises. At this point, the radio is wired exactly like the RM-60V.  I guess I should have just done that from the beginning.  I won't declare this a complete success until after it survives my President's Day trip, but it looks promising.

I am working to do the exact same thing for the same reasons and came across your instructions.  This is excellent info and certainly will save me a lot of time.    How did the field test go?  Is the voice/transmission quality just as good as the RM60 after making the mods?

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27 minutes ago, Mthendrickson@gmail.com said:

I am working to do the exact same thing for the same reasons and came across your instructions.  This is excellent info and certainly will save me a lot of time.    How did the field test go?  Is the voice/transmission quality just as good as the RM60 after making the mods?

So far it's worked perfectly. Let me know if you run into any issues or have questions. 

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Thanks. I plan to work on this tonight.  A few more questions.

1. What gauge wire did you use to solder to the board?

2. Did you try any other pin configurations on the 6-pin plug before moving to solder directly to the board?  I am a bit worried that my soldering skills are not up to the task of soldering directly to the board.  

3. I am considering just using the external speaker jack for the headset and only soldering for the PTT and mic to limit the amount of soldering directly to the board.  Do you have any thoughts on this?

Thanks again.  

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35 minutes ago, Mthendrickson@gmail.com said:

Thanks. I plan to work on this tonight.  A few more questions.

1. What gauge wire did you use to solder to the board?

2. Did you try any other pin configurations on the 6-pin plug before moving to solder directly to the board?  I am a bit worried that my soldering skills are not up to the task of soldering directly to the board.  

3. I am considering just using the external speaker jack for the headset and only soldering for the PTT and mic to limit the amount of soldering directly to the board.  Do you have any thoughts on this?

Thanks again.  

1) It was either 18 or 20 gauge, but you could use thinner if you wanted.  It's not carrying any measurable current or anything.

2) Yes, I had initially done everything through the connector, based on a guide I found elsewhere on the net.  That setup had issues and didn't work properly, which is why I removed it from my post earlier in this thread.  The mic did not work at all and the audio was way too quiet. I guess the audio on the connector is a much lower level than the audio on the speaker wire. Don't forget, the final setup is exactly the way Rugged does it. There's obviously a reason they go through that trouble versus just a plug and play connector :)

3) Here's my thoughts...the PTT is on the board connector. If you are going to the trouble to do the board connector, you might as well pick up the ground there (pin 1). That ground will work as a ground connector and also as the negative speaker connector.  At that point, you only have the speaker positive and mic left to do. The mic is the hard one, not gonna lie.  The speaker + is pretty easy since it is a short wire you are cutting and soldering, not a board connection.  All that said, if you are worried about soldering, you could just buy the harness that plugs into the speaker outlet AND the mic port on the front of the radio. Then it would be totally plug and play.  It just won't look quite as clean since you have the visible wire plugged into the mic port on front.  It would be a lot easier though and would be sure to work. Here's the cable I'm referring to: https://www.ruggedradios.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53_48&products_id=2437  With that there's no opening up the radio or anything.

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To add on to what @kazuaki said about the easy route of just buying the cable from rugged.  I HAVE had one of these radios fail before.  It stopped working in my sand car 2 years ago in the middle of a ride.  Something happened to the board and it fried itself.  If had gone through all the work of the solder I would have been sol for the rest of the trip.  However I have the same radio in my truck, so I just did a quick swap after the ride and I was back in buisness.  Did a quick purchase/return with Amazon and I put the new radio back in my truck a week later.

Something to think about.

 

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1 minute ago, r3meyer said:

To add on to what @kazuaki said about the easy route of just buying the cable from rugged.  I HAVE had one of these radios fail before.  It stopped working in my sand car 2 years ago in the middle of a ride.  Something happened to the board and it fried itself.  If had gone through all the work of the solder I would have been sol for the rest of the trip.  However I have the same radio in my truck, so I just did a quick swap after the ride and I was back in buisness.  Did a quick purchase/return with Amazon and I put the new radio back in my truck a week later.

Something to think about.

 

Excellent point.  While I'm happy with the approach I took, that's because I'm the kind of guy that like projects and this was a fun one. If you can deal with having the cable plugged into the mic port, then that's probably the safest route.

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35 minutes ago, kazuaki said:

1) It was either 18 or 20 gauge, but you could use thinner if you wanted.  It's not carrying any measurable current or anything.

2) Yes, I had initially done everything through the connector, based on a guide I found elsewhere on the net.  That setup had issues and didn't work properly, which is why I removed it from my post earlier in this thread.  The mic did not work at all and the audio was way too quiet. I guess the audio on the connector is a much lower level than the audio on the speaker wire. Don't forget, the final setup is exactly the way Rugged does it. There's obviously a reason they go through that trouble versus just a plug and play connector :)

3) Here's my thoughts...the PTT is on the board connector. If you are going to the trouble to do the board connector, you might as well pick up the ground there (pin 1). That ground will work as a ground connector and also as the negative speaker connector.  At that point, you only have the speaker positive and mic left to do. The mic is the hard one, not gonna lie.  The speaker + is pretty easy since it is a short wire you are cutting and soldering, not a board connection.  All that said, if you are worried about soldering, you could just buy the harness that plugs into the speaker outlet AND the mic port on the front of the radio. Then it would be totally plug and play.  It just won't look quite as clean since you have the visible wire plugged into the mic port on front.  It would be a lot easier though and would be sure to work. Here's the cable I'm referring to: https://www.ruggedradios.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53_48&products_id=2437  With that there's no opening up the radio or anything.

Great feedback.  Thank you both.

Last question Kazuaki.  So you spliced the Speaker + wire and did not solder that one to the board?   

I am leaning toward the soldering route because I actually have a General Aviation Intercom system that uses a different plug from the mini XLR.   (The aviation intercom works awesome and only cost $150 for a 4 place setup - I can still patch in music , VOX, PTT, etc).   If I use the Rugged Radio Jumper cable I still need to buy/make a conversion from XLR to .206 and .250 mic/speaker jack.  If I go the solder route at least I can just solder the needed connections directly to the radio.  

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54 minutes ago, Mthendrickson@gmail.com said:

Last question Kazuaki.  So you spliced the Speaker + wire and did not solder that one to the board?   

The speaker wires (both red and black) go from the speaker, which is mounted under the circuit board, to a board connector. You can see it in the red circle in my picture above.  I cut the red wire and soldered it back together with my own wire added, essentially tapping into it without losing it's original connection.  That way the speaker still works too. If I didn't want the speaker to work any longer, I could have just disconnected that plug from the board and connected straight to the board pin.

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