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Lepimpster

Any tips to torque rear axle nut??

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Just picked up a set of new Pro Am rear brake kits. They recommend the torque specs be done when the vehicle has no weight on it. The problem with that is how do I torque to 185-200ft lbs when I can't have weight on the wheel to prevent it from spinning? If my son holds the brake pedal will that force hold the rotor enough for me to get on that axle nut hard or is that putting too much tension on the caliper? Any tips on how I can torque this or if their is a tool I'm not aware of that would help me.

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I have the tool that bolts to the hub and hits the ground to keep it in place. I’m in corona. 

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The brake thing won’t work. 

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Or just put a long pry bar or pipe through the wheel studs and let that rest on the ground

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Like said above, except put your lugnuts on so the prybar (or tube) is resting on the lugnuts and not the studs. 

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Thanks for bringing this up, I have to do it soon and didnt know about having it off the ground.

Thinking i will weld a scrap bar to an old wheel, should do the trick

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1 hour ago, jjoseph99 said:

Or just put a long pry bar or pipe through the wheel studs and let that rest on the ground

This is the technique I did to get the old set off. Just wasn't too sure with the amount of torque needed if it would bend the studs with a bar across 2 studs. I think I will most likely use the tool JT recommended as I like that its able to be up against the hub at the base of the studs vs a pipe that will put the torque on the end of the studs perhaps creating them to bend or tweak a little. I must say these Pro Am kits seem pretty damn stout with the Wilwood Calipers. Look forward to seeing how they do.

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51 minutes ago, Ecobraap said:

Thanks for bringing this up, I have to do it soon and didnt know about having it off the ground.

Thinking i will weld a scrap bar to an old wheel, should do the trick

For the Funco?

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2 hours ago, Punchdrunk Monkey said:

Like said above, except put your lugnuts on so the prybar (or tube) is resting on the lugnuts and not the studs. 

If you use this method put some washers underneath the lug nuts and tighten them. This will  help to alleviate the pressure and help prevent deforming (bending) the studs. 

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lug nuts back on and piece of tubing does well for me.

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I've used this for years.  You can torque it up with a 3/8" or 1/2" Ratchet.  I've also used to change out a broken hub.  I keep it my CV kit.  I didn't buy it here but this is it.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036

 

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15 minutes ago, smerchan said:

I've used this for years.  You can torque it up with a 3/8" or 1/2" Ratchet.  I've also used to change out a broken hub.  I keep it my CV kit.  I didn't buy it here but this is it.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036

 

That is a slick torque multiplier. 

 

77B75387-3630-4270-AB30-8BDD800DC979.thumb.png.696ae5f57b51f90246e7c68578d72b44.png

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1 hour ago, Cookie said:

For the Funco?

yes

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it is pretty simple

just use a pip about 3 foot long or a breaker bar

put them between 2 of the lug nuts, I go to around 250 with them

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9b2a2d7f-cea4-4ac6-af2d-0d25742e8790_xwt

 

Not necessarily the most accurate, but effective.

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Heavy angle iron, with two holes drilled in it,  is the most stable.  Tighten down the lug nuts with some extra washers, then use a torque wrench good to 3600 in-lbs.  Found that at a surplus store for $40.  Just don't forget and use the angle iron for another project.  

SAM_2305.JPG

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it is super simple all you really need is the jack handle, just put on the lugs and run the pipe like the black line that is drawn and torque away

or any pipe, bar ect...

SAM_2305_thumb_JPG_873b5cf1ddf99b92e0ca8776f90096c8.jpg

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