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jhuerta

Parking Brake on Sandcar - Ideas?

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Hello guys,

I would like to add a parking brake to the sandrail. Do you guys know if they sell a lever that will connect to the brake lines? Or some other method. I currently always put the car in 1st when transporting and I would not like to do that. If you have a picture can you post it please. 

 

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25 minutes ago, jhuerta said:

Hello guys,

I would like to add a parking brake to the sandrail. Do you guys know if they sell a lever that will connect to the brake lines? Or some other method. I currently always put the car in 1st when transporting and I would not like to do that. If you have a picture can you post it please. 

 

I leave the car in neutral when it’s tied down.. heard it was bad to leave it in gear 🤷‍♂️

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27 minutes ago, jhuerta said:

Hello guys,

I would like to add a parking brake to the sandrail. Do you guys know if they sell a lever that will connect to the brake lines? Or some other method. I currently always put the car in 1st when transporting and I would not like to do that. If you have a picture can you post it please. 

 

I've always been told putting the car in 1st when towing is a Big No No because the timing belt can skip a tooth.  I've never transported mine in gear.

 

That being said, there is a thread on here about manual parking brakes.  You basically take the parking brake handle from a VW bug and a control cable and connect it to a Wilwood caliper, the part number is in the thread.  Then you have to machine a small rotor that bolts to one of your inner CV's and wha-la. independent parking brake cable.

 

I'll see if I can find the thread.

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Also, there is an in line hydraulic parking lock that someone sells, but I've heard of those locking up after runs with heavy braking.

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Transport in neutral.

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Four straps holding a car down on a flatbed or on an enclosed should be plenty. If the car comes loose then it wasn't tied down properly.

 

20190228_173145.jpg

Just did this one yesterday. Tires are barely on the deck and four tie downs per vehicle. No issues at all.

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3 hours ago, jhuerta said:

Hello guys,

I would like to add a parking brake to the sandrail. Do you guys know if they sell a lever that will connect to the brake lines? Or some other method. I currently always put the car in 1st when transporting and I would not like to do that. If you have a picture can you post it please. 

 

 

2 hours ago, THROTTLEJUNKIE said:

I've always been told putting the car in 1st when towing is a Big No No because the timing belt can skip a tooth.  I've never transported mine in gear.

 

That being said, there is a thread on here about manual parking brakes.  You basically take the parking brake handle from a VW bug and a control cable and connect it to a Wilwood caliper, the part number is in the thread.  Then you have to machine a small rotor that bolts to one of your inner CV's and wha-la. independent parking brake cable.

 

I'll see if I can find the thread.

Transporting on an open trailer?  I understand wanting to have that extra layer of security, a "last ditch, when all else fails" system to keep your car from rolling off the trailer (or into something in a toy hauler or enclosed)... or if you would just like to have a parking brake, with the thought that you might use it on other occasions, I get it.  But seriously, if you invest in a quality set of tie-downs/axle straps or wheel nets, along with properly affixed, quality anchor points on your trailer... and secure the car properly, your car's not going anywhere.  When I say quality tie-downs, I mean just that... from a reputable company, straps and hardware that have a proven track record in the auto transport arena.  I know people will take issue with my next comment, but IMHO, the yellow cheapie Harbor Freight ratchet straps don't fit the quality bill.  Add to that, I've seen a lot of duners use only two of those HF straps to secure a car...  running from one side of the trailer to the other, looped through the front and rear of the chassis or control/trailing arms.  I totally understand the concern and desire to add another layer of security however, I don't think this is the right solution. 

Recently, there was a GD.com thread addressing the "transporting in gear" topic, and it is a fact that some engines are sensitive to counter rotation and have been known to skip cam timing.  That said, if the car is secured properly, in gear or not, it's not going anywhere.  Your car won't be able to rock back and forth, potentially spinning the motor backwards, so personally I wouldn't see any harm in putting your car in gear after your 4 tie-downs are tightened.  If you still have the want for a parking brake, but it requires too much effort, is rumored or proven to be less effective, or if there's a reason you can't install decent anchor points (I know some toy haulers can be difficult) perhaps you might consider a couple wheel chocks.  You could temporarily affix the fore chock to the trailer deck utilizing a simple, drop-in pin system, extending through the chock into the trailer floor, then add an aft chock and either secure it to the deck or attach it to the forward chock.  There's a bunch of different ways  you could chock a tire... just one idea.   

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4 minutes ago, L.R.S. said:

Four straps holding a car down on a flatbed or on an enclosed should be plenty. If the car comes loose then it wasn't tied down properly.

 

20190228_173145.jpg

Just did this one yesterday. Tires are barely on the deck and four tie downs per vehicle. No issues at all.

This.  

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I have a line lock on my rock crawler.  I think they are typically used in drag cars, also called roll control valves. The premise is to depress the pedal to engage the brakes, and then hit the switch for the line lock and it block the fluid from returning to the reservoir, maintaining pressure to the calipers.   Not 100% sure if they are spring close, power open, or normally open, power close.  For short term, normally open power close would not be a bad thing, but for long term it would require a constant 12v power source, draining the battery over time.  It works well on my crawler, and may be a solution for you.  

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/line-locks?sortby=Default&sortorder=Ascending&keyword=line lock&kr=line lock

 

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Okay. I will put more straps and look into some good ones. 

Thanks again guys. 

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Yeah I would never tow in gear for all the reasons mentioned. I always use 6 straps - Corner to corner and just in case front and rear. 

I use good straps and make sure nothing  hits or rubs... and I pull over and check at least once on my 5 hour Glamis drive  and never had a problem personally. But I make sure the center straps remove suspension play and the other straps are on the Chassis where the suspension travel does not affect the straps tightness

I have become a fan of straps that  go around tires  just in case...

However... My buddy Jack who did the road race circuit on open trailers for years was a huge fan of making sure he used a chain in the center "just in case" as Chains don't rub though or shear off.   I thought it was stupid until one of my buddies was towing his Cobra cross country and Not checking the straps every few hours - he had a strap shear and brake and the  other strap  on the front was loose because the suspension was moving up and down on a bad road... and it worked its way off the shock mount it was "clipped on" , because the car was moving around the other two straps were in the back.... when the car  rolled off the trailer  and the two straps caught, the car flipped over... things went "bad" from there.  

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I have a  line lock similar to the one in the link on my car.  I use it only to hold the car in place while I tie it down because my car sits on ramps inside the enclosed and will roll back.  I never trust it alone though...it has popped on me and the car rolled back.  I leave it in gear as a back up until it's tied down then put in in neutral for towing.  4 straps in and enclosed, 6 on an open trailer.  Dont trust the line locks!

 

~jw

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I like to go over the top of all four tires that way the car can still move up and down with the suspension otherwise the straps come loose on me every time even if I compress the entire car down 6". 

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Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, 2turbofords said:

I like to go over the top of all four tires that way the car can still move up and down with the suspension otherwise the straps come loose on me every time even if I compress the entire car down 6". 

This. Tie down the tires, the wheels, or the suspension near the wheels (and in such a way that the strap can’t slip closer to the tie down).  This allows the suspension to move (no way you’re gonna take up all of your bump travel with a tie down) but the vehicle can’t shift position on the trailer. If it’s tied down with the chassis, every major bump has the straps loose when the suspension travels unless you tie it down so tight it’s bottomed out.

I saw someone the other day with their RZR tied down by the top of the cage... LOL

Edited by Rockwood

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Posted (edited)

My car has a rotor bolted between the cv and transaxle and a small, cable operated wildwood caliper.  One of the requirements to get my manx street legal.

I have a couple rotors drilled for 934's if you are interested. Would need to weld the mount for the wildwood caliper to your frame.

Edited by 1newbie
update

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Here is an older thread where someone added a mechanical parking brake.  It came out pretty good.  

 

 

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On ‎3‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 9:16 AM, budlight69 said:

Here is an older thread where someone added a mechanical parking brake.  It came out pretty good.  

 

 

This thread is mine before one of the "Updates" deleted my profile. I used a Wilwood Spot Caliper and a disk that I make for 930's and 934's.

DSCN0171.JPG

DSCN0169.JPG

IMG_0323.JPG

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On 3/5/2019 at 12:01 AM, scott24 said:

This thread is mine before one of the "Updates" deleted my profile. I used a Wilwood Spot Caliper and a disk that I make for 930's and 934's.

DSCN0171.JPG

DSCN0169.JPG

IMG_0323.JPG

Hello Scott,

Yeah I remember that you had done this. I was trying to look for you number and name on the site. Can you send me your number to my phone so I can  purchase one please.  626 327 6816.

 

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A little off topic with strapping your car down, but I am sure I read it here that you should strap down your frame, not the wheels.  If you don't, your suspension is working the entire time you are driving and the car cycles the suspension on every bump.  Fact is shocks wear out, no reason to speed up the process????

 

I use 4 straps in an enclosed trailer and compress the suspension (in my case it is just the airbags)

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24 minutes ago, Cookie said:

A little off topic with strapping your car down, but I am sure I read it here that you should strap down your frame, not the wheels.  If you don't, your suspension is working the entire time you are driving and the car cycles the suspension on every bump.  Fact is shocks wear out, no reason to speed up the process????

 

I use 4 straps in an enclosed trailer and compress the suspension (in my case it is just the airbags)

And on the flip side of that- is it good to leave suspension compressed for extended periods? Not being a smart ass, just enjoy a good discussion.

I had tire straps in my enclosed when I had my Chenowth Genesis. They worked great. My prerunner is much bigger and then tire straps didn't work very well. I just use four straps now. Two on the front bulkhead and two on the rear arms wrapped around the sway bar pivot arm.

20190214_144112.jpg

If my car is on the flatbed I use the tie down hooks on the lower arm you can see in the pic.

 

20181114_105727.jpg

20181025_104942.jpg

I use this method for strapping down cars on the flatbed whenever I can.

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4 minutes ago, L.R.S. said:

And on the flip side of that- is it good to leave suspension compressed for extended periods? Not being a smart ass, just enjoy a good discussion.

I had tire straps in my enclosed when I had my Chenowth Genesis. They worked great. My prerunner is much bigger and then tire straps didn't work very well. I just use four straps now. Two on the front bulkhead and two on the rear arms wrapped around the sway bar pivot arm.

20190214_144112.jpg

If my car is on the flatbed I use the tie down hooks on the lower arm you can see in the pic.

 

20181114_105727.jpg

20181025_104942.jpg

I use this method for strapping down cars on the flatbed whenever I can.

 

 

 

that is how I also strap mine down in my Toyhauler due to the from tires almost hitting the wall

 

 

 

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On 3/1/2019 at 8:40 PM, fullthrottleguy said:

Yeah I would never tow in gear for all the reasons mentioned. I always use 6 straps - Corner to corner and just in case front and rear. 

I use good straps and make sure nothing  hits or rubs... and I pull over and check at least once on my 5 hour Glamis drive  and never had a problem personally. But I make sure the center straps remove suspension play and the other straps are on the Chassis where the suspension travel does not affect the straps tightness

I have become a fan of straps that  go around tires  just in case...

However... My buddy Jack who did the road race circuit on open trailers for years was a huge fan of making sure he used a chain in the center "just in case" as Chains don't rub though or shear off.   I thought it was stupid until one of my buddies was towing his Cobra cross country and Not checking the straps every few hours - he had a strap shear and brake and the  other strap  on the front was loose because the suspension was moving up and down on a bad road... and it worked its way off the shock mount it was "clipped on" , because the car was moving around the other two straps were in the back.... when the car  rolled off the trailer  and the two straps caught, the car flipped over... things went "bad" from there.  

Damn, That sounds ugly.

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1 hour ago, L.R.S. said:

And on the flip side of that- is it good to leave suspension compressed for extended periods? Not being a smart ass, just enjoy a good discussion.

I had tire straps in my enclosed when I had my Chenowth Genesis. They worked great. My prerunner is much bigger and then tire straps didn't work very well. I just use four straps now. Two on the front bulkhead and two on the rear arms wrapped around the sway bar pivot arm.

20190214_144112.jpg

If my car is on the flatbed I use the tie down hooks on the lower arm you can see in the pic.

 

20181114_105727.jpg

20181025_104942.jpg

I use this method for strapping down cars on the flatbed whenever I can.

Probably not a good idea to compress your suspension for a long time, now the real question is, is it better to keep compressed on airbags or a spring car??  ha

If I store my car more than 12 hours in the trailer, the straps get loosened.

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On ‎3‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 9:38 AM, jhuerta said:

Hello Scott,

Yeah I remember that you had done this. I was trying to look for you number and name on the site. Can you send me your number to my phone so I can  purchase one please.  626 327 6816.

 

PM Sent

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