Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Jonesin'

Brake line info

Recommended Posts

Looking for some info on a brake line kit and switch for my 4 piston. I heard I could use a bleeder to connect but, is there a kit available?

7EB591A8-A717-4EEF-A6D6-A4EAA684F07B.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure what you are talking about but when I ran my brakes, I did solid lines at the frame and soft lines at the arms. All from Pacific Customs, just measured what I thought I would need and that was it. I do believe there is a valve at my master cylinder for my fronts. 

https://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=brake-hard-lines&Offset=0&Store_Code=PC 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We use 100% braided soft line no hard lines, after years of building cars we find the most firm pedal in a sand car with braided lines

mostly due to the tooling people have to make hard lines,

we have tried the SS lines and had them polished and had small leaks and destroyed the powder coat,  we have used aluminum line but you need the line straighteners to make the line look good, and then lines get bent and get a little leaks, or when you flare them they have micro cracks and leaks,

we would get Buckshots in the shop with soft line and thought that was crazy, but never any leaks and always a firm pedal,

so our last personal cars have been all soft line braided and has been a super firm pedal,

also if cutting brakes, with Softline we can unbolt the cutting brake and move it in different direction, to remove the air,

I have purchased the hard line flaring tools line for $600 and still had moisture at the fittings,

In a sandcar I have not felt any difference in soft or hard line,    the biggest difference in brake feel to me is getting 100% of the air out and keep it out,  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperListLanding

also with the 4 piston calipers we use #3 brake lines, I have seen some cars use #4 but I believe everyone uses #3, responding to your text is the link above

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Not quite sure I'm answering what you are asking but I'll take a shot at it.  There should be a 1/8" NPT inlet on the inboard side in the middle of the caliper. There is likely a sticker over it to prevent debris from entering before installation.  Assuming you use -3 lines, use a 1/8" NPT to -3 AN adapter to convert the NPT to the soft or hard line you are connecting.  If there are interference issues with using the caliper side inlet then you could cap that inlet and use the bottom inboard bleeder port  to connect your brake line (use the bottom port so you can still bleed the air out of the caliper at the top).  The bleeder ports should also be 1/8" NPT when you remove the brass adapter containing the bleeder screw.  Use a good thread sealant on the adapters (I was told Loctite 565).  Also, be careful not to overtighten steel NPT adapters into aluminum parts when trying to get an angled adapter pointed in the right direction.  A company like AN Plumbing has the adapters you will need and you can order custom length flexible brake lines.

Edited to add:

Found my old brake line questions thread (Brake Line Plumbing Drawings).  The first post has images of my proposed plumbing diagram.  I ended up using all braided stainless lines which eliminated the bulkhead fittings at the arms.

Edited by Quicksand
Added link to other forum topic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Quicksand said:

Not quite sure I'm answering what you are asking but I'll take a shot at it.  There should be a 1/8" NPT inlet on the inboard side in the middle of the caliper. There is likely a sticker over it to prevent debris from entering before installation.  Assuming you use -3 lines, use a 1/8" NPT to -3 AN adapter to convert the NPT to the soft or hard line you are connecting.  If there are interference issues with using the caliper side inlet then you could cap that inlet and use the bottom inboard bleeder port  to connect your brake line (use the bottom port so you can still bleed the air out of the caliper at the top).  The bleeder ports should also be 1/8" NPT when you remove the brass adapter containing the bleeder screw.  Use a good thread sealant on the adapters (I was told Loctite 565).  Also, be careful not to overtighten steel NPT adapters into aluminum parts when trying to get an angled adapter pointed in the right direction.  A company like AN Plumbing has the adapters you will need and you can order custom length flexible brake lines.

Edited to add:

Found my old brake line questions thread (Brake Line Plumbing Drawings).  The first post has images of my proposed plumbing diagram.  I ended up using all braided stainless lines which eliminated the bulkhead fittings at the arms.

This is awesome! Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just use #3 braided ptfe line and install your own Fragola fittings on the ends. The calipers should have a hole in them for an 1/8 npt fitting.   Pedal will feel no different than if you used hardline. All mentioned already.  You will need a double 3/4" m/cyl. Somewhere convenient install a T so you can use a pressure switch for brake lights. Summit is likely the cheapest place to shop for fittings and things. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, fortyfour said:

Just use #3 braided ptfe line and install your own Fragola fittings on the ends. The calipers should have a hole in them for an 1/8 npt fitting.   Pedal will feel no different than if you used hardline. All mentioned already.  You will need a double 3/4" m/cyl. Somewhere convenient install a T so you can use a pressure switch for brake lights. Summit is likely the cheapest place to shop for fittings and things. 

 

Sounds good. I appreciate it 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

also I like the Steel fittings, the aluminum is harder to get tight, out of the side of the caliper, I like a  1/8 NPT to 90 degree #3 fitting this will help with sharp turns,

also use zip tab ties on the arms welded on, I have also seen magnetic ones

or can drill and tap them or self tap

black-nsi-industries-cable-ties-sm-3-b-64_400.jpg

9019_primary_450px.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/30/2019 at 8:16 PM, J Alper said:

We use 100% braided soft line no hard lines, after years of building cars we find the most firm pedal in a sand car with braided lines

also if cutting brakes, with Softline we can unbolt the cutting brake and move it in different direction, to remove the air,

Okay I took this advise today, couldn't get consistent cutting brakes, figured if I could roll the cutting (turning) brake around it would de-air easy...... now I have nothing on the turning brakes. SUPER clean fluid out of the calipers. Pedal instantly fills the turning brakes. I have the turning brake level on the frame and NOTHING.

Use the pedal to pump up the turning brakes, release the bleed screw, close screw, use pedal to return turning brake - repeat -

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We use a pressure bleeder 

basically a cap with a air chuck and 10psi of air 

we also use the large resi not the small ones 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, J Alper said:

We use a pressure bleeder 

basically a cap with a air chuck and 10psi of air 

we also use the large resi not the small ones 

Thiss^^^^ I just drill a spare  reservoir cap and install a schrader valve. Works every time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^^^Agreed this works awesome.

 

cap.jpg.d7d01eb15b2c19bbbadb0aab6f9343e1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the other part is if you have a spare cap, instead of a Schrader valve,

WE drill the cap and TAP it for a Air compressor fitting

This way you do not have to deal with a locking tire fill attachment

Remember if you drill a cap you need to pull the rubber diaphragm out and put in a O-ring

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/31/2019 at 3:35 PM, fortyfour said:

Just use #3 braided ptfe line and install your own Fragola fittings on the ends. The calipers should have a hole in them for an 1/8 npt fitting.   Pedal will feel no different than if you used hardline. All mentioned already.  You will need a double 3/4" m/cyl. Somewhere convenient install a T so you can use a pressure switch for brake lights. Summit is likely the cheapest place to shop for fittings and things. 

 

I used two pressure switches after the cutting brakes and wired to separate brake lights. Shows which way Im cutting or you can mess with people and pull up a cutter a bit and light up a brake light... Pedal still lights both.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

shop i know that builds high quality drag cars uses plain steel tubing. it comes in rolls and they straighten it out with a tool they made and make the lines they need to fit the car they are building.  they used to use stainless tubing but found it always split, leaked and was very difficult to work with. they will typically have the lines plated with a coating after they are bent and cut to fit or they powder coat em (masking off the fittings on the end of course).

i used stainless tubing on my car with short braided ones on pivot points etc,  and can attest it was a pain to get them right.  i have no leaks amazingly and no seepage as jason has seen, i must have got lucky with mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/11/2019 at 7:50 AM, J Alper said:

We use a pressure bleeder 

basically a cap with a air chuck and 10psi of air 

we also use the large resi not the small ones 

Apparently I need patience, next morning we had it bled in a few pumps... I guess I worked it so hard it aerated the fluid. DOH, All good now.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm looking to piggy back on Jonesin's topic here. I am in process of redoing the brakes on my car. Can you post up some pics of your setup for the rear trailing arms at the rotation points? Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a pic of mine. Flexible line from the turn brake with enough slack at the pivot for it to not be tight at full droop.

IMG_20190415_222028.thumb.jpg.6e9545618730386082182a5bd8d902a8.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎4‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 7:50 AM, J Alper said:

We use a pressure bleeder 

basically a cap with a air chuck and 10psi of air 

we also use the large resi not the small ones 

which pressure bleeder?  I have CNC master and wildwood calipers on my BFD.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, urclever said:

which pressure bleeder?  I have CNC master and wildwood calipers on my BFD.

pressure bleaders are all the same, they are a cap with a fitting 

I thing allot look at pictures but do not read the posts, little frustrating 

you just take a cap to your system and add about 10lbs of air with the cap bladder removed, and add a O ring

stated above, it is a pain to find a good locking air chuck so we TAKE A CAP DRILL IT AND TAP IT FOR A NPT, then add our air cuck fitting like a air tool 

if using a wildwood clamp on, purchase a cap and weld a steel air cuck fitting to the top, 

not allot of science, just need to pressurize the system somehow with about 2-10lbs of air,  have seen some use bicycle pumps  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
51 minutes ago, J Alper said:

pressure bleaders are all the same, they are a cap with a fitting 

I thing allot look at pictures but do not read the posts, little frustrating 

you just take a cap to your system and add about 10lbs of air with the cap bladder removed, and add a O ring

stated above, it is a pain to find a good locking air chuck so we TAKE A CAP DRILL IT AND TAP IT FOR A NPT, then add our air cuck fitting like a air tool 

if using a wildwood clamp on, purchase a cap and weld a steel air cuck fitting to the top, 

not allot of science, just need to pressurize the system somehow with about 2-10lbs of air,  have seen some use bicycle pumps  

Thank you I appreciate the input. And yes I didn't read as I am one of those dumbasses trying to work 2 screens at a time. lol

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, urclever said:

Thank you I appreciate the input. And yes I didn't read as I am one of those dumbasses trying to work 2 screens at a time. lol

 

I get the same way. I need a full picture book

also I like to use a clear hose on the bleeder into a bottle and I mark the line on the side so I do not run the master cylinder low

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

More Links

©2001 GlamisDunes.com.
All rights reserved.

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.