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Hey guys, Just reaching out to tell you we are now a GD.com sponsor, and look forward to helping you guys out with any questions you have. If you have any questions or need any product you can reach us here on GD.com or you can contact us through email ( Parker@gear-one.com) or call us during normal business hours @(623) 934-6913 

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Great News!

Welcome.

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Glad to have you back in the business, and thanks for supporting Glamis Dumes...

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Just saw you guys do REM finishing.  Had a lot of luck with this process keeping glass Nissan transmissions alive.  Highly recommend this if you're on the borderline for your drivetrain.

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Posted (edited)
32 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Just saw you guys do REM finishing.  Had a lot of luck with this process keeping glass Nissan transmissions alive.  Highly recommend this if you're on the borderline for your drivetrain.

REM super finishing is a great process, we love it for transaxles and CVs. This process only takes us about 24 - 48 hours, so the downtime is very short

Edited by GEAR-ONE.COM

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7 minutes ago, GEAR-ONE.COM said:

REM super finishing is a great process, we love it for transaxles and CVs. This process only takes us about 24 - 48 hours, so the downtime is very short

CVs are a good choice as most of us run angles at ride height (almost no one has flat CVs at ride height).  All that movement in there means heat and reducing friction through surface treatment is a good way to combat this.  Go touch your CVs after a ride if you don't think heat is a problem.  Also one of the reasons why most of us can't keep grease in them.

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Welcome back!!! I need  a few replacement studs for my  super microstubs and a set of brake pads for  the same 4 piston calipers.

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4 minutes ago, 2turbofords said:

Welcome back!!! I need  a few replacement studs for my  super microstubs and a set of brake pads for  the same 4 piston calipers.

Not a problem, give us a call (623) 934-6913 and we can get you everything you need.

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This is good news!  Glad to have you back doing what you do!  Lots of GearOne stuff still being used out there.  

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glad you guys are back :thumbup:

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Love my G-1 hubs! Thanks for dropping in! 

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21 hours ago, Rockwood said:

Just saw you guys do REM finishing.  Had a lot of luck with this process keeping glass Nissan transmissions alive.  Highly recommend this if you're on the borderline for your drivetrain.

How does this compare to cryo-treating?

 

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33 minutes ago, Fireballsocal said:

How does this compare to cryo-treating?

 

REM polishing removes surface micro imperfections which would displace the load across the face rather than on a “spot” due to imperfection. 

Cryo helps the molecular structure consistency.

 

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51 minutes ago, Fireballsocal said:

How does this compare to cryo-treating?

 

As Romans says, it's another process.  Cryo helps the grain structure of the metal throughout, REM polishing helps make the surface more consistent, harder (to reduce wear) and more slippery (reducing heat).  In my previous experience with FWD Nissans, a large part of transaxle and CV failure has to do with heat cycling causing the metal in the gearstack to fatigue, leading to reduced strength and eventual failure.  In my racing days, we made a notoriously weak (2 seasons with 150-ish whp, max) Nissan transaxle last for 4 seasons before we grenaded it with turbo torque just by keeping it cool.

I did a writeup on cryo and surface treatment (WPC in this case) here:

https://motoiq.com/project-infiniti-g20-racecar-transmission-upgrades/

That transaxle is still alive, running well over 300whp now with about 6 seasons of abuse on it.  Most races were standing starts followed by 40 straight minutes of maximum throttle or braking, and the car is running 10" wide R-compound near slicks.  I mash the FIA curbing (I paid for the whole track, damned sure going to use it) everwhere and 2-wheel motion under throttle the car twice a lap at Buttonwillow (3-4 races a season there).  

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BTW, order of operation for me was Cryo, then REM polishing.  

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Thank you Rockwood and Romans. Fascinating stuff comes about when the right people keep trying for better results.

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Not to High-Jack the Post, But for Romans and Rockwood: At what Operating Temp should you worry about CVs? We ran from Gordon's to the Swing Set. One of my CVs was about 130 degrees the other was about 90 degrees. WE stopped and cooled down. Ran to the washes and it was about the same. When should you worry?

Dean

 

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5 minutes ago, Dean said:

Not to High-Jack the Post, But for Romans and Rockwood: At what Operating Temp should you worry about CVs? We ran from Gordon's to the Swing Set. One of my CVs was about 130 degrees the other was about 90 degrees. WE stopped and cooled down. Ran to the washes and it was about the same. When should you worry?

Dean

 

As long as you are using a good quality grease those temps are not bad at all however was one CV at the trans and one at the hub?

I ask that because if they were both trans or both hub you might want to check and see why the 40 degree difference.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Dean said:

Not to High-Jack the Post, But for Romans and Rockwood: At what Operating Temp should you worry about CVs? We ran from Gordon's to the Swing Set. One of my CVs was about 130 degrees the other was about 90 degrees. WE stopped and cooled down. Ran to the washes and it was about the same. When should you worry?

Dean

 

Probably not, so long as it's not getting runny and coming out of the cage.  Most decent synthetic greases have a dropping point of 4-500*, which we'll hopefully never see in buggies.  Venturing a guess here, but you probably want to avoid anything near 200*F as cSt drops to about 10% of what it is at 100* (so 1/10th the "sticktion").  

2 hours ago, Romans9 said:

As long as you are using a good quality grease those temps are not bad at all however was one CV at the trans and one at the hub?

I ask that because if they were both trans or both hub you might want to check and see why the 40 degree difference.

This.  Could be something as simple as you were primarily running bowls clockwise (making the right rear CV see more angle), or something in the CV, or your ride height was set before you sat your keister in it. :bigrin 

Edited by Rockwood

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Good Job Parker.  I'm glad to see you're rolling in the family business and that you guys are getting back into the off-road game.

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The CVs at the Trans were warmer then at the Wheels. I think because of the ambient heat of the trans carried through and helped to warm up the CVs?

 

So I am happy that I shouldn't worry about anything less than 200. Thank you Romans and Rockwood

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good to see ya back and thx for being a sponsor on gd,com :like:

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