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Posted (edited)

We had to fabricate new arms to accommodate the bigger hubs. In hindsight we probably should have used 934. We were WAY over our budget and had to stop the bleeding somewhere. Oh well. I still have the tubular chromoly arms that are set up for microstubs, as long as Jonesin' is having to rework the back end of his car, these arms may be a perfect fit to upgrade from his type 1 stuff. Send me a PM and we can discuss them in more detail. I'll sell them for what I have into them. I would like nothing more than to help out a fellow duner and put these to good use. The pics of the bare arms are what I have for sale, not the boxed arms on the car  which were $$.

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Edited by fortyfour

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14 minutes ago, fortyfour said:

Here’s what the end result looked like. It was a huge undertaking to make things line up correctly. Removing and replacing and/or relocating your pivot tube should be left to someone who is very confident in their abilities. 

6919214A-3B32-472A-80BC-9438B3DE8F62.jpeg

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Whoaaaa!!! That's legit work right there! Hmmm... I smell 20 pages... 

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Even with new joints we had to massage them with a die grinder to make them loosy goosy. 

8CD00979-8482-4A23-B698-8D89C9706D19.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

Yes it was a huge amount of work. None of it was done by me personally though. Eric Emler gets the credit for that.  

I just wanted to show what can be done for frame modifications if that is what is desired. (And I was trying hard to be the first to page 10 with content relevant to the discussion, Alper's tensioners are sweet!)

Edited by fortyfour

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On ‎5‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 10:27 PM, J Alper said:

First person to hit page 10 Gets a Free Billet 3 bolt LS tensioner and steam port kit

:yay:

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2 minutes ago, fortyfour said:

:yay:

Congrats!

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6 hours ago, fortyfour said:

Here’s what the end result looked like. It was a huge undertaking to make things line up correctly. Removing and replacing and/or relocating your pivot tube should be left to someone who is very confident in their abilities. 

6919214A-3B32-472A-80BC-9438B3DE8F62.jpeg

F32ADB7B-053B-4EE7-9E98-9A74678C1917.jpeg

Love the way he butts welded the tube at an angle rather than straight around.  So much cleaner and I would think stronger.  

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6 hours ago, fortyfour said:

:yay:

Well chit congratulations.  

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Can we stop calling it a torsion tube?

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 Absolutely! I would never try to attempt anything like that type of fabrication work.   I would have the guy that is doing my engine and transmission swap complete that task. 

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Torsion tube, pivot tube is the same thing. Most offroad fabricators have been around the stuff since the old VW days. That's what it was. It's the same piece just now it's only used for pivot not a combination of pivot and torsion holder. We can be "technically speaking" about anything and be wrong most of the time. "Technically speaking" if it has a sway bar attached in anyway, it's  a torsion tube. It is a trade term for the same thing. Anybody in the trade knows it as both. We use both terms here everyday. 

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if you have a v8 fortyfour I will send you our tensioner, if not tell us where to send it

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2 hours ago, CHIZZLE said:

Can we stop calling it a torsion tube?

OG duners is torsion tube, millennials and newbies - rear trailing arm support housing tube

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2 hours ago, CHIZZLE said:

Can we stop calling it a torsion tube?

I think we need to let it decide what it identifies as. 

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9 hours ago, J Alper said:

OG duners is torsion tube, millennials and newbies - rear trailing arm support housing tube

That explains it.  I'm a total newbie.

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11 hours ago, J Alper said:

OG duners is torsion tube, millennials and newbies - rear trailing arm support housing tube

So what do we do with the Chenweth Guys they have a double A arm in the back, should we seclude them to all conversation,

 

just joking

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On 5/15/2019 at 8:46 PM, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

just cause I'm trying to get to page 10 I will add my $.02.  a torsion housing having splines in the center of the tube is simply a method of creating a rear spring per side to keep the car at ride height.  they are independent and act alone.  a sway bar connects one arm to the other arm. through a torsional tube, yes but that's the "only" thing they have in common. (the word tosional)  the sway bar has no lifting ability.  its purpose is to raise the inside wheel to prevent sway as the outer wheel is being compressed and allows the car to have less body roll.

I was saying coil over converted VW based cars could ditch the center splines and convert to carry a “sway bar”. 

Technically, all sway bars are torsion springs, since they twist and don’t compress (yes, a coil spring also compresses)...

On 5/15/2019 at 8:49 PM, Jonesin' said:

On a real note, should I have a larger torsion tube installed when I have the engine/trans mounted? Or will this be “overkill” also?

No. Brace it upwards towards the main hoop near the motor. You shouldn’t be relying on the torsion tube to carry the engine cage by itself. 

This is what I did to beef up the rear. X brace and 2 kickers before and after (with an added cross brace under the motor to back it up) the trans mount. All with 1” or  1.5” are 0.65” wall DOM  

A2B3E7EE-583F-4433-A67B-F711B8265255.thumb.jpeg.aef965d7a95c39a4a52cc2d96229c992.jpeg

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