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Posted (edited)
57 minutes ago, CHIZZLE said:

Why do you think you need 934's?

 

C'mon bro, everyone knows a sand car with 930s won't ever get back to camp on it's own.  Don't you read the posts? I think this next season series 30 CVs will be the new in thing, since everyone is making 1200hp with a cam swap these days. 

Edited by fortyfour

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8 hours ago, Jonesin' said:

FML 🤦🏻‍♂️ Tried to disassemble these 930’s and the PO welded them instead of using clips... Got one of them off and it just fell apart. Screw it, looks like I’m just going with 934’s. Is there a “Type 1” 934 stub axle kit?

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Dude you can totally make those axles work. What the hell, you'll be in this car 50 grand if you keep throwing money at it. Chill out... take these ends to a cross cut disc and cutoff 1/8" on each end then groove for the clip with a dremel small disc all the way around. I heard it works just fine. You can clean up splines with a small angle file... inspect the balls and body of the CVs and replace just the cages and stars for now... the axles and CVs shouldn't be your next concern. Make them spin for now while you get everything else buttoned up. My couple pennies...

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the big issue with 934 is the axle cost, 930 axle are around $550 where 935 axles are around $800,

but that is a misconception about 930 being the weaker link, when a 930 breaks or a 930 axle breaks it can shock load the trans and crack a case or cause cracking in the side cups,  a Empi 934 joint for $96 will last the time of the car and add reliability,

my brother car went on a LS1 with 934 for 7 years before going to a S4 and now using the same CV's when he had 930's he was just chasing CV issue like pitting or breaking a cage or axle failure,

no one with 934's talks about CV's in camp around the fire,

but the 930 guys that is all they talk about is CV's

for example if you take a good 930 CV with a 300m center and 300m cage the cost is around $200 per CV, = $800 plus axles 300M $550 total of $1340          934 at $96 each =$384 +$850 for axles is $1234.00

the 934 CV choice should be a no brainer,  just one less thing to worry about,  

934 will pit heavy and does not break, so you just run them and run them and run them, pitted and beat up,

930 starts to pit and soon it will fracture,  or checking 930 axles for cracking  even if you take a good GKN930 add a 300M cage you are still in it about $140 per cv and the $96 empi 934 is 10 times stronger

you are on the right track with a 934, I have never broke on my car 3700lbs with a 454Ci LSX

 

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3 hours ago, Chingon619 said:

Dude you can totally make those axles work. What the hell, you'll be in this car 50 grand if you keep throwing money at it. Chill out... take these ends to a cross cut disc and cutoff 1/8" on each end then groove for the clip with a dremel small disc all the way around. I heard it works just fine. You can clean up splines with a small angle file... inspect the balls and body of the CVs and replace just the cages and stars for now... the axles and CVs shouldn't be your next concern. Make them spin for now while you get everything else buttoned up. My couple pennies...

Will these be the right length for a different trans also? I’m not sure until it’s mounted. I’d like to go with the stronger setup also... 

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12 minutes ago, Jonesin' said:

Will these be the right length for a different trans also? I’m not sure until it’s mounted. I’d like to go with the stronger setup also... 

Who cares for now. You'll have CVs that function. I get what Jason is saying but you might as well build a new car at this point if it's about discarding everything you've got and replacing it with heavy duty everything. 

Ok, let me simmer down, clean this stuff up and then get a trans, even if it is Jason's PBS 2d get his adapter for 930 to his 934 cup on the trans lol he wouldn't steer you wrong, I guarantee you that but getting all new everything is going to hurt the pocketbook. 

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2 minutes ago, Chingon619 said:

Who cares for now. You'll have CVs that function. I get what Jason is saying but you might as well build a new car at this point if it's about discarding everything you've got and replacing it with heavy duty everything. 

Ok, let me simmer down, clean this stuff up and then get a trans, even if it is Jason's PBS 2d get his adapter for 930 to his 934 cup on the trans lol he wouldn't steer you wrong, I guarantee you that but getting all new everything is going to hurt the pocketbook. 

I get what you mean. I guess I’m used to my dad saying, “if it costs more, it’s a better quality.” 

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1 hour ago, Jonesin' said:

I get what you mean. I guess I’m used to my dad saying, “if it costs more, it’s a better quality.” 

In your dad's age that was true.  In today's world not so much.  Why are you trying to complicate things so much?  Listen to your peers, people that have been there and done that.  

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1 hour ago, fastcorvairs said:

In your dad's age that was true.  In today's world not so much.  Why are you trying to complicate things so much?  Listen to your peers, people that have been there and done that.  

How is buying new parts complicating things? I’m no good at inspecting CV’s. No clue if they are good or not? 

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After reading this thread  I feel like you need an intervention.........

 

I’ll be the ahole and point out the elephant in the room that a couple of posters have eleuded to.

 

You need to understand you are dumping and will be continuing to dump a PILEof money into what looks like a home built chassis. That chassis is not worthy of an LS. You still have a torsion housing from a VW in that chassis right?  You’re building a lopsided car. Cut your loses, salvage the parts you can and search the for sale adds for a good quality chassis built by a reputable builder with tried and true correct chassis geometry, appropriate sized tubing with good triangulation. Of course resale value can also be a factor.

 

I know you are hindered by your location but don’t let that stop you from haveing a property built car that will provide you and your family with as safe as possible experience that will take you out in the dunes  so you can enjoy the time you have running the car rather than wishing you had done it right looking at your family sitting in lawn chairs while you work in vain trying to cobble some morphodite car back together in an attempt for at least one decent ride.

 

Sorry, not trying to discourage you but we all want you to succeed in your quest for a good car, not become bitter and hate the predicament you get yourself into and disappoint yourself and your family.

 

There have been many cars for sale that are in various states of disassembly for a great price on here. 

I don’t know what he is currently getting for a chassis but Jesse at JP Designs sells a very good car for a great price and will sell it in about any stage you want to buy it.

 

If my post offends you I’m sorry that’s not my intent just ignore it and I won’t respond again.

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If your old trans was the same as a bus or type 1, they have 11" between cv flanges. A 2d is 9" between flanges, so yes you will need axles 1" longer for a 2d.

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7 hours ago, J Alper said:

the big issue with 934 is the axle cost, 930 axle are around $550 where 935 axles are around $800,

but that is a misconception about 930 being the weaker link, when a 930 breaks or a 930 axle breaks it can shock load the trans and crack a case or cause cracking in the side cups,  a Empi 934 joint for $96 will last the time of the car and add reliability,

my brother car went on a LS1 with 934 for 7 years before going to a S4 and now using the same CV's when he had 930's he was just chasing CV issue like pitting or breaking a cage or axle failure,

no one with 934's talks about CV's in camp around the fire,

but the 930 guys that is all they talk about is CV's

for example if you take a good 930 CV with a 300m center and 300m cage the cost is around $200 per CV, = $800 plus axles 300M $550 total of $1340          934 at $96 each =$384 +$850 for axles is $1234.00

the 934 CV choice should be a no brainer,  just one less thing to worry about,  

934 will pit heavy and does not break, so you just run them and run them and run them, pitted and beat up,

930 starts to pit and soon it will fracture,  or checking 930 axles for cracking  even if you take a good GKN930 add a 300M cage you are still in it about $140 per cv and the $96 empi 934 is 10 times stronger

you are on the right track with a 934, I have never broke on my car 3700lbs with a 454Ci LSX

 

Are you really alluding to a 934 will never break?????  Oh my if you are.

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21 minutes ago, lincster said:

Are you really alluding to a 934 will never break?????  Oh my if you are.

No. You misread. With a 934 you will never talk about a cv. 930 guys can’t stop talking about cvs. 

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1 hour ago, lincster said:

Are you really alluding to a 934 will never break?????  Oh my if you are.

everything breaks,  but in our camp with the smallest motor being a 416 and about 12 V8 cars in camp no 930 cars all 934, has only been 2 broken Cv's in 10 years,  Jetjock broke a fortin cage, and itsweeks had so much down travel that the balls fell out and bent up the cage,   all have pitted and dented but never a fracture in the star to leave a car broke in the dunes

I am just not a fan of 930 have owned them, have had kartek, fortin, RCV, and just to many issues,  

the 934 cv at its cheapest is stronger than any aftermarket 930,   but if he wants the trans to be a 930 with a upgrade to a 934 later, than yes we can put on a adapter to make it 930 or 934

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Just get new axles shafts or take the existing ones to a machine shop and have them repair the splines.  Moving to 934s means new arms, etc unless you run some sort of adapter (or someone insanely makes a type 1 to 934 stub), which just means you'll break the stub inside the arm and make it a really long day in the dunes.

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Romans9 said:

After reading this thread  I feel like you need an intervention.........

 

I’ll be the ahole and point out the elephant in the room that a couple of posters have eleuded to.

 

You need to understand you are dumping and will be continuing to dump a PILEof money into what looks like a home built chassis. That chassis is not worthy of an LS. You still have a torsion housing from a VW in that chassis right?  You’re building a lopsided car. Cut your loses, salvage the parts you can and search the for sale adds for a good quality chassis built by a reputable builder with tried and true correct chassis geometry, appropriate sized tubing with good triangulation. Of course resale value can also be a factor.

 

I know you are hindered by your location but don’t let that stop you from haveing a property built car that will provide you and your family with as safe as possible experience that will take you out in the dunes  so you can enjoy the time you have running the car rather than wishing you had done it right looking at your family sitting in lawn chairs while you work in vain trying to cobble some morphodite car back together in an attempt for at least one decent ride.

 

Sorry, not trying to discourage you but we all want you to succeed in your quest for a good car, not become bitter and hate the predicament you get yourself into and disappoint yourself and your family.

 

There have been many cars for sale that are in various states of disassembly for a great price on here. 

I don’t know what he is currently getting for a chassis but Jesse at JP Designs sells a very good car for a great price and will sell it in about any stage you want to buy it.

 

If my post offends you I’m sorry that’s not my intent just ignore it and I won’t respond again.

I guess I can be an a-hole back. No, I do not have a stock VW torsion housing on my car. Also, how is a .net V3 a lopsided car? I’ve seen many Sandcars.net with an LS engine. Why is mine different? I’m far from offended and have pretty thick skin. However, it’s also pretty easy for someone to “spend the other guys money” if you will. 90% of the members on here think about resale of their unit. I’m not putting this together to resell it or for the sake of anyone else to be happy. I’m doing this for me and my family. The exact way I want it to be. I bought this car out of Arizona last year knowing it needed some love. I have quite a bit into it to just “salvage” the good parts off it and start over. I appreciate your insight but,  I would be losing thousands of dollars to cut my losses with what I have now over some CV’s and axles... 🙄

Edited by Jonesin'

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10 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Just get new axles shafts or take the existing ones to a machine shop and have them repair the splines.  Moving to 934s means new arms, etc unless you run some sort of adapter (or someone insanely makes a type 1 to 934 stub), which just means you'll break the stub inside the arm and make it a really long day in the dunes.

Most likely what I will do. I’ll run adapters until I can upgrade the stub shafts...

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3 minutes ago, Jonesin' said:

Most likely what I will do. I’ll run adapters until I can upgrade the stub shafts...

Don't run an adapter.  The weak link is now the stub.  Break a stub in the arm and you ruin the bearings within feet.  Makes for a long day getting out of the dunes.  I'd stay with 930s and carry an extra CV.

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Just now, Rockwood said:

Don't run an adapter.  The weak link is now the stub.  Break a stub in the arm and you ruin the bearings within feet.  Makes for a long day getting out of the dunes.  I'd stay with 930s and carry an extra CV.

LS/2d and my car is barely over 1800 pounds. 930’s will be fine?

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I honestly don't remember what your current plans are for the car. But if it was me IMHO, I'd put a 2D from J Alper in it, 930s, a N/A J35A4, clean it up, finish it, and go drive the piss out of it. It'll be a fun reliable car for you and family. Then a few years down the road when you want an LS, sell it, and buy a car with an LS in it. That car with single shocks, shorter wheel base, and dimensions it has will be a great fit for a 3.5/2D/930s that will give you more smiles per mile on a much cheaper budget and it'll be the perfect all around entry level car. Keep in mind, that's just my 2 cents, I'm sure whatever is done to your car will be a great time in the long run, especially because you are doing business with the best guys in the industry.

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Sorry, J Alper has me thinking since we talked last week on strength 

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For conversation's sake. Here are my CVs out on my last trip. Heard a clicking on the first ride of a 4 day trip and decided to tear them down. 300m Fortin 930s, stock LS1, using Mantek Elite. They were completely wasted. Cracked one of the stars, pitted the bodies, stars, and balls. I drive the piss out of this car, jump it, wheelie it, and absolutely abuse the turning brake so my driving style does not help CVs at all. This was my 8th trip of the season, all trips minimum 3 days of hard riding. 

That being said, I'm going to continue to run 930s for this exact reason. I'd rather start to lose a CV and pay another $200 for a CV than a transmission. There are countless numbers of people who run 930s with a 2D and stock LS that have great success with them. It's all in driving style and most importantly PROPER MAINTENANCE. If you do a good job cleaning, greasing, and maintaining your car it'll continue to run great. I don't want this to deter you from 930s, because like I said i'm going to continue to run them. My dad on the other hand is running a 3.5/2D/930s and has had 4 long seasons out of them and they still look brand new. 

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2 minutes ago, Jonesin' said:

LS/2d and my car is barely over 1800 pounds. 930’s will be fine?

Not really, but neither will the 2D.  

The problem is the T1 stubs.  The money sent on 930-934 adapters can be spent on new shafts and re-assess after you have a couple of seasons in it if you want to spend the ~$4k going to 934 the right way.  It's not just buying 934s and axles and calling it  day.  It's new arms ($400-1000, depending), re-doing your mounts, getting a micro-stub or mid-board hub/brake kit ($1600 to start) and the axle kit ($1300 as J Alper says).  On top of that, going micro-stub will net more travel, so you'll be tempted to either re-valve and re-spring and move the shock mount closer to the pivot, or go with longer shocks.  

934 to T1 is plain stupid to me.  In the Jeep world, it'd be like going with an Atlas II or N205 and leaving the D35 out back.  You'll have this big giant axle setup (which will shock load that poor T1 stub more than a 930 setup) plugged into a puny 12 spline T1 stub.  

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27 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Not really, but neither will the 2D.  

The problem is the T1 stubs.  The money sent on 930-934 adapters can be spent on new shafts and re-assess after you have a couple of seasons in it if you want to spend the ~$4k going to 934 the right way.  It's not just buying 934s and axles and calling it  day.  It's new arms ($400-1000, depending), re-doing your mounts, getting a micro-stub or mid-board hub/brake kit ($1600 to start) and the axle kit ($1300 as J Alper says).  On top of that, going micro-stub will net more travel, so you'll be tempted to either re-valve and re-spring and move the shock mount closer to the pivot, or go with longer shocks.  

934 to T1 is plain stupid to me.  In the Jeep world, it'd be like going with an Atlas II or N205 and leaving the D35 out back.  You'll have this big giant axle setup (which will shock load that poor T1 stub more than a 930 setup) plugged into a puny 12 spline T1 stub.  

Pm me please

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So I'm going to expose myself, no not that way, jees. I have a honda 3.0 vtech, type one stubs, and 930 joints. For three prior years I ran (brace yourself), a type one vw transaxle, then one year with the Autocraft, type one. Never broke anything in the drive, did wreck a cv or 2 and an axle when a trailing arm failed. I now have a 2D and my driving style has not changed due to it.

Bottom line is how YOU use your car, build it for you and how you intend to drive it. If it should break, fix it and go back and have fun.

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I’m in the sand 3 hours a day for a week at a time. One guy says I’ll be fine, other guy says the upgrade. That’s the only thing is who’s advice is right?

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