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 This is actually the first time I salvaged anything from this original purchase! Thanks for the help and staying patient with me through this last few days and seven pages worth of BS. 

2308A213-4E8B-4CDA-91CB-93F887560266.jpeg

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I sure could use a tensioner

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The odd ball cage is the weak one. The others 'should' be chromo or 300m

BUT,,,BUT,,,,,,what do the other 3 look like? You can smooth out some dimples with emery cloth or some use a dremmel carefully.

If they are too dimpled then they may need to be replaces as well. Any pitting on the stars or balls?

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4 minutes ago, matt86m said:

The odd ball cage is the weak one. The others 'should' be chromo or 300m

BUT,,,BUT,,,,,,what do the other 3 look like? You can smooth out some dimples with emery cloth or some use a dremmel carefully.

If they are too dimpled then they may need to be replaces as well. Any pitting on the stars or balls?

Not at all. Not wavy, pitted or cracked

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1 hour ago, Jonesin' said:

Put them thru the parts washer and I have one oddball cage... Is that the good one or are the other three the good ones?

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That oddball needs to go. I'd run everything else to get rolling. The cages should be the oval hole type like the rest. I went with Fortin cages.  

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Jonesin' said:

 This is actually the first time I salvaged anything from this original purchase! Thanks for the help and staying patient with me through this last few days and seven pages worth of BS. 

2308A213-4E8B-4CDA-91CB-93F887560266.jpeg

This hasn't been 7 pages of BS when I read through it. It's 7 pages of folks who have been there and done that and are trying to steer the OP away from losing his checkbook on a project that may or may not turn out as planned. 

It's better for us to call the kettle black rather than not say anything at all. As I already said in one of my previous posts, the cv debate was a dead horse long before this thread.  

 

Edited by fortyfour

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17 minutes ago, fortyfour said:

This hasn't been 7 pages of BS when I read through it. It's 7 pages of folks who have been there and done that and are trying to steer the OP away from losing his checkbook on a project that may or may not turn out as planned. 

It's better for us to call the kettle black rather than not say anything at all. As I already said in one of my previous posts, the cv debate was a dead horse long before this thread.  

 

There has been some rude or inappropriate commits, is what he is talking about 

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3 hours ago, Chingon619 said:

10 pages!! Here we come!!!

 

Ok, back to reality. You were messaging with Hydropower for his rear hubs?? Jump on them before I do!! I plan on seeing them Saturday and will most likely buy them for my V3 lol but really, you need them more than I do. While on that note you'll need to reinforce the whole rear section of the car to hold that V8 securely. Just a few more tubes but for safety's sake, replace the torsion tube for something much stronger. Bigger diameter and thicker wall tube. Then build some rear arms that can support the weight and safely transfer the power to the wheels with the right hubs. Should be ok then. 

Curious: most custom VW torsion housings are 2.25” x 0.25” wall tubing with a near-solid (except for the splines) key in the middle. Nothing on most sand cars is anywhere near that big. How much bigger should he go? 4” Sch 80 structural pipe? :bigrin 

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6 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Curious: most custom VW torsion housings are 2.25” x 0.25” wall tubing with a near-solid (except for the splines) key in the middle. Nothing on most sand cars is anywhere near that big. How much bigger should he go? 4” Sch 80 structural pipe? :bigrin 

on a tatum for sandroosten the torsion housing broke out and the seat belt tabs are tabbed to the housing, if a passage was in that seat, it would have been bad, the torsion broke completely out with the arm attached, the only thing holding it was the seat belt to the seat, 

it now has .750 wall chromoly tubing from left to right, a little much but they had .120 wall or the almost solid,  safety over weight, went big and add mucho gussets, 

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25 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Curious: most custom VW torsion housings are 2.25” x 0.25” wall tubing with a near-solid (except for the splines) key in the middle. Nothing on most sand cars is anywhere near that big. How much bigger should he go? 4” Sch 80 structural pipe? :bigrin 

Well I can say that my V3 plans called for a 1.5" X .120 wall, but after getting my Mosebilt 2 seater frame, I want nothing less than what he used. It looks to be 2.5" tubing and looks to be more than .120... Also, I've seen V3 torsion tubes break or should I say "heard of" from Alex (throttleguy) here on the board. That was his first recommendation to me and I now see why first hand. 

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Posted (edited)
45 minutes ago, J Alper said:

on a tatum for sandroosten the torsion housing broke out and the seat belt tabs are tabbed to the housing, if a passage was in that seat, it would have been bad, the torsion broke completely out with the arm attached, the only thing holding it was the seat belt to the seat, 

it now has .750 wall chromoly tubing from left to right, a little much but they had .120 wall or the almost solid,  safety over weight, went big and add mucho gussets, 

VW-style torsion housing, or just a rear pivot mount tube?

23 minutes ago, Chingon619 said:

Well I can say that my V3 plans called for a 1.5" X .120 wall, but after getting my Mosebilt 2 seater frame, I want nothing less than what he used. It looks to be 2.5" tubing and looks to be more than .120... Also, I've seen V3 torsion tubes break or should I say "heard of" from Alex (throttleguy) here on the board. That was his first recommendation to me and I now see why first hand. 

A lot crack because all of the rear cage is cantilevered off of them, putting the entire weight of the drivetrain and bottom-outs onto the torsion housing with a 4'+ lever.  You could put a bridge girder in there and it still wouldn't be enough.  Like my ME101 professor said: you can have materials and engineering.  More of one means less of the other.  If you're not using torsion bars, 1.5"x0.120" wall is plenty assuming there isn't a 4' bending moment.

 

 

 

And yes: way off topic, but doing my part to get it to 10 pages. :bigrin 

Edited by Rockwood

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47 minutes ago, J Alper said:

on a tatum for sandroosten the torsion housing broke out and the seat belt tabs are tabbed to the housing, if a passage was in that seat, it would have been bad, the torsion broke completely out with the arm attached, the only thing holding it was the seat belt to the seat, 

it now has .750 wall chromoly tubing from left to right, a little much but they had .120 wall or the almost solid,  safety over weight, went big and add mucho gussets, 

3/4" wall thickness chromoly? That seems a little excessive.  Most good builders use .120 wall. The problem with the breakage isnt so much the thickness as much as lack of support in the middle. Basically , if it flexes and moves, it's going to break. It's not "if" it's "when". 

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I do not think that I have a torsion housing.

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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Jonesin' said:

I do not think that I have a torsion housing.

I meant "pivot tube" and that genius Rockwood knows that. That is why he's calling me on it. But I don't play smarty pant games. He's a smart guy, I'm not. 🖕😂

Edited by Chingon619
I could really use that steam port kit, so let's do this!!

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Posted (edited)
25 minutes ago, Chingon619 said:

I meant "pivot tube" and that genius Rockwood knows that. That is why he's calling me on it. But I don't play smarty pant games. He's a smart guy, I'm not. 🖕😂

Lol. I was just trying to figure out why he needs to upgrade the torsion or pivot tube, as it’s usually the lack of support that breaks them, not the tube itself. 

And I usually call it torsion tube because I’m stuck in the VW-based suspension buggies. :bigrin 

Edited by Rockwood

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His car has a torsion tube???????

 

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1 hour ago, CHIZZLE said:

His car has a torsion tube???????

 

true duners call it a torsion tube due to them being in the industry so long that is all they had 30 years ago,

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Posted (edited)

Guess what day it is? It's hump day! Do those tensioners come polished or machined finish?

 

 

Edited by fortyfour

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1 hour ago, fortyfour said:

Guess what day it is? It's hump day! Do those tensioners come polished or machined finish?

 

 

black or machined lol 

just did a run on the Haas

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On 4/30/2019 at 9:38 AM, Jonesin' said:

Sorry, J Alper has me thinking since we talked last week on strength 

You need to find my post on doing a swap. I went from subi/091 to ls2/mendi and from 930 to 934 cv's and axles.

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11 hours ago, Sandjoker29 said:

You need to find my post on doing a swap. I went from subi/091 to ls2/mendi and from 930 to 934 cv's and axles.

We did this conversion and it looks like the car was made for a V8, used a LS2 with a cam 230/240 112 and the car runs and dunes awesome, I think sandjoker like the V8 over the Subie, easy to drive we did 934 with adapters on the transaxle,

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Bump.                     

Page 10 here we come. hahaha

 

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On 5/11/2019 at 1:26 PM, danbalz said:

Bump.                     

Page 10 here we come. hahaha

 

Cheating. 

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So is it still a torsion tube if there is no torsion bar inside of it?

BTW my SU mid has an anti-sway tube just above my torsion tube, minus a torsion bar, but has an anti-sway bar inside the anti-sway tube. 

So my set up is an anti-sway bar minus a torsion bar.  Obviously two negatives make a positive, so I must have a torsion tube in my car.  

However, it is a mid engine so maybe I don’t have a torsion tube.   The two negatives which were positive are inverted and become a negative because it’s mid engine means that I don’t have a torsion tube. 

Somebody please help. 

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