Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Just putting a feeler out if anybody has one sitting in a corner after a swap.

Could always go the ebay route but thought I would check here first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ever think of JDM?  I've bought a bunch of stuff from my local JDM dealer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would check car dash-part dot com. It will search all the junk yards in your area, tons of j35a4’s on there from 400-800 bucks, some with low miles too. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Getpitted453 said:

I would check car dash-part dot com. It will search all the junk yards in your area, tons of j35a4’s on there from 400-800 bucks, some with low miles too. 

Yup no shortage of them.Get one take the non essentials off clean it up should be good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After doing more research on these engines . I am leaning towards a J35a3,  going off this info it is more suited for boost if I ever decided to go that route and seems to be the strongest of the formats with the forged crank , rods and webbed block. May have found a local one for around $500

 

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/honda-j-series-thread-tech-info/111289/page1/

"-Bottom Half

Theres an old saying. "Theres no replacement for displacement" This is true. The J32 will make more HP then TQ. The J35 will make more TQ then HP. Then theres the famous quote by Carroll Shelby "Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races." Don't know about you but I am a firm believer in that Carroll Shelby knew his **** when he was smacking around ferrari.

Lets start with stock bottom ends.

For a fair comparison: Lets say you have my recombination for the top half of the motor. Why do I say this? Different heads will perform differently. So All the bottom halts have the same head for a fair comparison.

J32a2 - Makes good horse power but not enough tq. The webbing on the block, steel sleeves, forged crank, cast rods and pistons are good. The Valve reliefs in the pistons are pretty nice looking as well A nice 10:5:1 compression ratio for an all motor build is always a good thing. Also leaving you a little breathing room for some room for boost or spray later on.

J35a3 - For the People saying this won't bolt up to the 6 speed because it came from an awd car, I just want to let you know that this is the block I use and it bolts right up. Makes a boat load of tq. Should be the same amount of HP as the J32a2, possibly even more. I can't see more displacement hurting the HP rating. This is why this is theory The Best part about the J35a3 is the bottom half. It uses the same exact block as the J32a2. If you don't believe me, look up the part numbers. Same webbing, same sleeves, ect. The only difference is the stamp that says J35a3 on the block. The internals are different of course. It uses a forged crank and rods (factory forged rods people, don't get excited), and cast pistons. 9:5:1 compression makes this motor idea for boost/spray.

J35a4 - Honda took the J35a3 and J30a1 and had a baby with this one. It uses a different block then the first two. It doesn't have the webbing/support, it uses FRM sleeves (reinforced fiber). It also has a cast crank, rods, and pistons. It utilizes a 9:5:1 compression ratio like the a3. This would be the last block I would use for a build. Its fine for all motor though. You have the displacement but i wouldn't boost it or try to rev it past 6700. I had mine running at 7k rpm before I blew it up.

My recommendation: The best stock bottom end goes to the J35a3 by far for all motor/spray/all motor.

Custom Stroker Builds:

The J36: The "budget/stock sleeved boost friend J37" is what it really is. I personally have a J36 in my car. I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, Rods, Bearings, P2R crank snout, (Type S/Odyssey-MDX/RL Pistons). The reason for not using the J37 pistons is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray. I have 0 idea what kind of power I am making with this setup but i apparently did break the all motor native J series record for the fastest 1/4 time with it.

The J37 All motor: I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, J37a1 Rods, J37a1 Bearings, P2R crank snout, J37a1 Pistons. You will need to bore the block out 1mm to 89mm the factory limit. This is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, Stugots said:

After doing more research on these engines . I am leaning towards a J35a3,  going off this info it is more suited for boost if I ever decided to go that route and seems to be the strongest of the formats with the forged crank , rods and webbed block. May have found a local one for around $500

 

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/honda-j-series-thread-tech-info/111289/page1/

"-Bottom Half

Theres an old saying. "Theres no replacement for displacement" This is true. The J32 will make more HP then TQ. The J35 will make more TQ then HP. Then theres the famous quote by Carroll Shelby "Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races." Don't know about you but I am a firm believer in that Carroll Shelby knew his **** when he was smacking around ferrari.

Lets start with stock bottom ends.

For a fair comparison: Lets say you have my recombination for the top half of the motor. Why do I say this? Different heads will perform differently. So All the bottom halts have the same head for a fair comparison.

J32a2 - Makes good horse power but not enough tq. The webbing on the block, steel sleeves, forged crank, cast rods and pistons are good. The Valve reliefs in the pistons are pretty nice looking as well A nice 10:5:1 compression ratio for an all motor build is always a good thing. Also leaving you a little breathing room for some room for boost or spray later on.

J35a3 - For the People saying this won't bolt up to the 6 speed because it came from an awd car, I just want to let you know that this is the block I use and it bolts right up. Makes a boat load of tq. Should be the same amount of HP as the J32a2, possibly even more. I can't see more displacement hurting the HP rating. This is why this is theory The Best part about the J35a3 is the bottom half. It uses the same exact block as the J32a2. If you don't believe me, look up the part numbers. Same webbing, same sleeves, ect. The only difference is the stamp that says J35a3 on the block. The internals are different of course. It uses a forged crank and rods (factory forged rods people, don't get excited), and cast pistons. 9:5:1 compression makes this motor idea for boost/spray.

J35a4 - Honda took the J35a3 and J30a1 and had a baby with this one. It uses a different block then the first two. It doesn't have the webbing/support, it uses FRM sleeves (reinforced fiber). It also has a cast crank, rods, and pistons. It utilizes a 9:5:1 compression ratio like the a3. This would be the last block I would use for a build. Its fine for all motor though. You have the displacement but i wouldn't boost it or try to rev it past 6700. I had mine running at 7k rpm before I blew it up.

My recommendation: The best stock bottom end goes to the J35a3 by far for all motor/spray/all motor.

Custom Stroker Builds:

The J36: The "budget/stock sleeved boost friend J37" is what it really is. I personally have a J36 in my car. I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, Rods, Bearings, P2R crank snout, (Type S/Odyssey-MDX/RL Pistons). The reason for not using the J37 pistons is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray. I have 0 idea what kind of power I am making with this setup but i apparently did break the all motor native J series record for the fastest 1/4 time with it.

The J37 All motor: I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, J37a1 Rods, J37a1 Bearings, P2R crank snout, J37a1 Pistons. You will need to bore the block out 1mm to 89mm the factory limit. This is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray."

Where did you get that info? 

It's quite misleading, especially the A4. I had 3 different a4's, two had a forged crank and they all had powder forged rods.

No denying the A3's are a better motor but they didn't all have fully forged internals.

A3 and A4 are identical in power ratings, IIRC. The only difference was an intake riser. Been awhile so I could be wrong on that.

Edited by Legit Duner

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I linked the site above it, interesting that's why I wanted to post it up here to get some feedback. After all I read it in the internet so it must be true!

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, as far as the cylinders, I'm almost positive they are all the same and they all have the same downfall. They vibrate during boost, only fix for any of them is to do a closed deck.

Try https://www.v6performance.net/forums/7g-honda-accord-performance-discussion/191426-j36.html  This place.

Follow NVA-AV6's posts, he is/was the guru of J motors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not really planing on boosting it, still would like to keep it N/A but do some bolt on mods. Thanks for the link and info, lot to learn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, Stugots said:

Not really planing on boosting it, still would like to keep it N/A but do some bolt on mods. Thanks for the link and info, lot to learn.

If you're not going boosted, stick with an a4..

Later if you want to bolt stuff on, grab some RLs cams, or swap over some j32A heads and intake.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The A4 is way more plentiful.  I have even found decent deals on Ebay from the midwest.  If you're going to boost it, which 3.5 you have is just the beginning of the snowball you're about to roll..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Legit Duner said:

If you're not going boosted, stick with an a4..

Later if you want to bolt stuff on, grab some RLs cams, or swap over some j32A heads and intake.

Ya that was the plan, grab a engine and upgrade it over the summer.

1 hour ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

The A4 is way more plentiful.  I have even found decent deals on Ebay from the midwest.  If you're going to boost it, which 3.5 you have is just the beginning of the snowball you're about to roll..

They seem to be more plentiful as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the a1 in my car i can say the torque is real nice i know they are lower on the hp then the others but i will say after its first season in my car vs the v dub i love it.Has plenty of punch for my car and can just leave it in one gear if needed was nice having the low end power with a great upper rpm hit too.

Other car i did for  a friend was an A4 version his car ran real good this year too. we both raced and it was pretty even but i think he may have a lil more up top with his.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Randy I think you have the title wrong it should read 5.3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Squatcher said:

Randy I think you have the title wrong it should read 5.3

Would need a whole other car wrapped around it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

72,000 mile a4 in my car out of an 04 Odyssey.  Put it in in 2011. Still going strong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have an old backup j35 in my warehouse on a pallet. Sold the buggy I had it for. 400 bucks or something like that? Costa Mesa. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, cwarkenton said:

Have an old backup j35 in my warehouse on a pallet. Sold the buggy I had it for. 400 bucks or something like that? Costa Mesa. 

@Stugots

I'm in Costa Mesa if you need anything.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/15/2019 at 6:26 PM, Legit Duner said:

Also, as far as the cylinders, I'm almost positive they are all the same and they all have the same downfall. They vibrate during boost, only fix for any of them is to do a closed deck.

Try https://www.v6performance.net/forums/7g-honda-accord-performance-discussion/191426-j36.html  This place.

Follow NVA-AV6's posts, he is/was the guru of J motors.

Just went on there and looked. Place is DEAD...

In the display options on the bottom, select show all years posts.

There are 100's of posts about modifying J motors. Lots of 300whp N/A builds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been considering replacing my 2.5 Subaru for a Honda Turbo. I have talked to @jtmoney714 about build options. I would like 500-550 HP. Interesting info here

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
34 minutes ago, cwarkenton said:

Have an old backup j35 in my warehouse on a pallet. Sold the buggy I had it for. 400 bucks or something like that? Costa Mesa. 

PM sent.

So another question comes to play, will the ECU and harness on my 3.0 work on the 3.5?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, Stugots said:

PM sent.

So another question comes to play, will the ECU and harness on my 3.0 work on the 3.5?

Eek I don't know alot about those motors or any motors honestly. I just had it as a back up. I replied to pm.  👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Stugots said:

PM sent.

So another question comes to play, will the ECU and harness on my 3.0 work on the 3.5?

I believe it will. Check with Brandon though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would think it maters what computer you have.  I think the 04/05 and up you can tune the stock computer.  I wouldn't use a 3.0 on the 3.5 if you couldn't tune it. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Squatcher said:

I would think it maters what computer you have.  I think the 04/05 and up you can tune the stock computer.  I wouldn't use a 3.0 on the 3.5 if you couldn't tune it. 

 

Good info, I was under impression that a honda ecu was locked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

More Links

©2001 GlamisDunes.com.
All rights reserved.

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.