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mike dee

What clutch are you running ?

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Running a stock Honda 3.5 for now with a 2d. Started with a 6 puck,  it’s a bit jumpy but grabs hard which is good.  What are you used?

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we only use 6 puck disc  on everything, they are the least grabby,  what kind of peak torque numbers do you have?  what stage pressure plate (8 or 9")

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9" dual disc, stage 4.

Smooth as butta.

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15 minutes ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

we only use 6 puck disc  on everything, they are the least grabby,  what kind of peak torque numbers do you have?  what stage pressure plate (8 or 9")

Good question... I don’t member.  Gonna have tranny yanked for service and will find out soon....

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16 minutes ago, lincster said:

9" dual disc, stage 4.

Smooth as butta.

Noted... thanks

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for that HP, I would run a dual 8'' for a couple of reasons 

I have ran single 9''  Dual 9'' and Dual 8''

the best feel was a dual stage 3 or 4    8''  puck-6 this is very smooth it uses the steel pads so I have never used one up, 

my Chevy 454 makes around 720HP so the 8'' looked almost new after 3 years on the pads, but with the torque it was starting to crack between the pads or I would have kept it, 

I really like the feel of the 8'' 

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stage four 9" double disc is for over 1000hp. holly molly!  9" clutch parts are more expensive but they also allow you to run a lighter pressure plate with same grabbing.  no reason to do over kill on a clutch.  i prefer 9" and would not recommend going down to 8"  (less desirable and you would have to buy a new flywheel too)

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I run a 9" stage 3. It is very smooth. 402 LS2. 

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He is running a honda with a 2D,

single 9'' stage 3 should be a good affordable setup

 

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I ran a single 9” stage 3 with ls1 (450 hp) and 2D and it was perfect.

not sure what to run with stroked ls3 and S4 though🤔

whats everyone running with similar setup (@600 hp)?

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8" dual disc stage 4 or

9" dual disc stage 3

2 hours ago, Casey4646 said:

I ran a single 9” stage 3 with ls1 (450 hp) and 2D and it was perfect.

not sure what to run with stroked ls3 and S4 though🤔

whats everyone running with similar setup (@600 hp)?

 

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Got a call from my tuner and he told me that my clutch is slipping under load now. So was just looking up clutches and but wondering why this would happen it's a dual disk 9 in stage three. Just put a new motor I. And new disks resurfaced everything else.I think my pressure plate may be to blame its probly 8 years old now do they lose grabbing  force over time? And am thinking that I may need to step up to a stage 4. 

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When I had my Honda 3.5 I ran a 9" 6 puck with a stage 2 pressure plate. Always worked really well

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I was just wondering what the life of the pressure plates is on our clutches are

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8 hours ago, djk_rctruck said:

Got a call from my tuner and he told me that my clutch is slipping under load now. So was just looking up clutches and but wondering why this would happen it's a dual disk 9 in stage three. Just put a new motor I. And new disks resurfaced everything else.I think my pressure plate may be to blame its probly 8 years old now do they lose grabbing  force over time? And am thinking that I may need to step up to a stage 4. 

Did u have the pressure plate rebuilt?

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No just resurfaced

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Should have had it rebuilt. Probably needs new fingers. 
Kennedy replaces them when they rebuild them. 
 

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You have to be careful who is doing the resurfacing.  Sometimes they don't cut down the pressure plate mounting ledge on the flywheel. If the ledge isn't cut as far as the contact area the gap between the pressure plate and flywheel will be to big. Even new discs will slip.

I had a customer bring me new discs and fresh cut flywheel. They never cut the ledge. I could turn the pilot tool by hand after I tightened everything down.  

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20 hours ago, Hondo said:

You have to be careful who is doing the resurfacing.  Sometimes they don't cut down the pressure plate mounting ledge on the flywheel. If the ledge isn't cut as far as the contact area the gap between the pressure plate and flywheel will be to big. Even new discs will slip.

I had a customer bring me new discs and fresh cut flywheel. They never cut the ledge. I could turn the pilot tool by hand after I tightened everything down.  

I think this is what I am running in to. I think I'm just going to buy a complete new clutch and fly wheel. Hell just did the motor an trans this way I know the entire drive train will be new. I think I will step up the pressure plate to a stage 4. And then I can send the other one in to be rebuilt. 

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The only thing I would like to add to this conversation is clutch's need to be broken in BEFORE YOU RUN THE PISS OUT OF THEM ON THE DYNO!

I can't tell you how many people have called me to complain about a clutch slipping on the dyno, usually for the high horsepower guys that love seeing the big numbers on paper before they take the car to the sand.

A clutch is very much like a set of brakes, the materials are not that much different. They will need at least a day or 2 of easy driving to let them break in. 

If you are installing a brand new clutch or resurfaced with new discs, please take the time to break it in before seeing how high that line goes on the chart.

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On 8/13/2019 at 1:43 PM, mike dee said:

Running a stock Honda 3.5 for now with a 2d. Started with a 6 puck,  it’s a bit jumpy but grabs hard which is good.  What are you used?

What did you end up going with? I just picked up a Honda 3.5 that has some motor work done to it. With an  091 all weddle internals. Its got a super stiff ceramic clutch which makes it really hard to load in the trailer. Was thinking of switching it out to a 6 puck Kennedy. 

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I'm surprised no one has mentioned the glazing and wear on clutches from feathering the clutch while trying to ease the sand rail into the trailer.

I think using a winch to pull the rail into the trailer really cuts down on the wear and slippage on the clutch.

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above, I have seen multiple reasons why a clutch slips, not sure if this is why but will add a list to check 

Slips due to 

  • Flywheel tapped for short bolts from some manufactures not kennedy, and people use long bolts and the pressure plate does not bolt all the way down 
  • dual disc and one clutch in backwards,
  • bad pilot bearing and oil leaks 
  • wrong flywheel bolts on LS and the clutch hits the bolts on the flywheel 

These are some reasons not typical, but what I have seen over the years, so you really want to check everything

I have seen the flywheels that are not tapped deep for the pressure plate bolts (8mm) so the pressure plate never gets bolted down all the way,  have seen this 3 times so far, the Kennedy flywheels are tapped all the way through, 

also hand fit the disc make sure that it makes contact with the flywheel, this is important on a dual disc, sometimes you can have a floater issue, 

Might not be typical issue, so above is something to think about, 

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Was running a kennedy 8” dual disk stage 4 with my NA LS2

 

now going to the Weddle 9” dual disc with a TT LS2. Looking forward to seeing how the new clutch feels and performs. 

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Weddle Centerforce 11" with sprung disc. Of course I use an LS bell housing on the HV24 which also allows a block mounted starter.  Some of the LS guys who still use a small bellhousing and clutch don't know what you are missing. Just sayin'.

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