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jwest2sh

Upgrading the New to me enclosed trailer

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1 minute ago, POULE43 said:

I LOVE that workbench set up with everything hidden. GREAT JOB...… I am stealing a few ideas for my 24 footer!! Keep the pics flowing!

:poule:

Will do....post some of your when you do it.  I like watching other guys projects.  Always learning new stuff!

 

~jw

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I want to do the exact same thing with my new trailer. Cabinets and fuel station. 

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4 minutes ago, bajabug44 said:

I want to do the exact same thing with my new trailer. Cabinets and fuel station. 

$2700 at Universal Trailers in Riverside.  Their wiring leaves something to be desired but that's an easy fix.  They used cheesy connectors, drilled holes in metal and ran wire with no loom or grommets and no zip-ties or cable hold downs.

~jw

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Just adding a pic of the access door for the air and power cord.  I might go with a little bigger door in the future.  This one works but it would be nice if it were about 8" tall.  I initially got the small door because it had the little flap that I can open and run the lines through.  Then I can keep the access door closed to keep some of the and out of the inside of the cabinet.  

I only had an hour to work on it today. I got the battery on/off switch, work lights switches and winch controller plug installed into the cabinet.  Didn't have time to wire anything up yet.  I'll post pics of that stuff when it's done.

~jw

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Haven't had much time to work on the trailer...little man started school and I was a the river for Labor Day.  I managed to get some wiring done last week though.   Got a battery On/Off switch in and wired, battery in stalled and the winch is wired.  I also added a low point drain on the fuel tank, just in case my pump ever quits I'll be able to the fuel out of it.  I put an in-line valve on a 3/8" NPT fitting, then attached a 3/8" hose barb and 3/8" fuel line to the valve.  I left the valve pointed up and ziptied the fuel line above the fuel level in case it ever leaks and so no road debris can take out the valve.  If i ever need it I can just rotate it 90* to the right and I'm good to go.  I can use it to flush the tank too.  I added some LED work lights above the bench and inside the lower cabinets.  I ordered two more for the upper cabinet they work so well.  Should finish up wiring it this week.  Just a couple pics...more to come when I'm 100% done with the wiring.

~jw 

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10 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

Haven't had much time to work on the trailer...little man started school and I was a the river for Labor Day.  I managed to get some wiring done last week though.   Got a battery On/Off switch in and wired, battery in stalled and the winch is wired.  I also added a low point drain on the fuel tank, just in case my pump ever quits I'll be able to the fuel out of it.  I put an in-line valve on a 3/8" NPT fitting, then attached a 3/8" hose barb and 3/8" fuel line to the valve.  I left the valve pointed up and ziptied the fuel line above the fuel level in case it ever leaks and so no road debris can take out the valve.  If i ever need it I can just rotate it 90* to the right and I'm good to go.  I can use it to flush the tank too.  I added some LED work lights above the bench and inside the lower cabinets.  I ordered two more for the upper cabinet they work so well.  Should finish up wiring it this week.  Just a couple pics...more to come when I'm 100% done with the wiring.

~jw 

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Dang it man,   we drive matching  Ford trucks, 24' white trailers and now our sons started kindergarten on the first day at the same time! crazy world we live in! Keep up the good work

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5 hours ago, 2turbofords said:

Dang it man,   we drive matching  Ford trucks, 24' white trailers and now our sons started kindergarten on the first day at the same time! crazy world we live in! Keep up the good work

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Small world!  Nice set up! :headbang:

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Finished up the wiring this weekend and got all of the work lights in stalled. It's ready to load the buggy in and decide where I want the tie down anchors to go.  Still need to pick up a power strip for under the cabinet.  The vinyl floor was peeling up on the edges from the heat and it popped the rubber base boards off.  I found some aluminum transition metal for flooring and used it to hold down the vinyl on the edges, then I glued the base boards back on.  The cheap lock they used on the fuel door was already broken.  I got a replacement from Lowes for $8 and replaced it.  Here's a couple pics.

~jw

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You could always run that low point to an inverter generator as well. 

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OK...so my OCD got the better of me the other day.  I laid a little carpet in the upper cabinet so thinks won't be sliding around.  I got some new plastic tubs and labeled everything to organize things....I could never find anything in my old cabinet.  This should work out good.  I winched the car in the trailer (just to try the winch out) with the dirt tires on it since the front end is the widest with those tires.  It fit but I had to strap the front end together to get past the spring assist cables on the rear door.  No biggie... still beats changing tires!  I should be able to just drive in with the sand tires on it.  Now I just have to give it a wax and she's ready to go!

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Pretty much finished up with the trailer.  Just have to pop out a dent in front right corner and wax it.  I put in a couple of pit posse oil and spray can holders and replaced the outlet under the lower cabinet.  I put in a power strip to run the power cord reel, battery tenders and compressor.  

~jw

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So...when I loaded the car with the dirt tires, the front tires hit the spring assist cables.  Eventually it's going to break one of the cables or damage a tire.  I came up with a sliding bracket sorta like a gate latch.  I whipped them up one night at work and they seem to be working.  I made the slide bar out of 1/2" solid stainless so it won't corrode and become hard to move.  I turned the stainless bar down to 3/8" on one in and threaded the end of it.  Then I welded a smaller piece of bar at 90* for a handle.  I used 3/4" .120 tubing as a guide for the stainless bar and welded it all to a piece of 1/8" plate.  The extra piece of tubing at the top is so I can run it over with the buggy and the stainless bar won't get bent. 

They do flex upward slightly when in they are slid out because of the spring tension on the cables.  If I were to do it over again I would make them out of 3/4" bar or even 1".  I'll see how they do this season and I might upgrade them next summer.  I also made some new cables for the door since the old ones were showing wear and one had a kink in it.  I added a little spring tension and adjusted the pulleys so both cables go up evenly now.  Here's a couple pics.

~jw

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5 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

So...when I loaded the car with the dirt tires, the front tires hit the spring assist cables.  Eventually it's going to break one of the cables or damage a tire.  I came up with a sliding bracket sorta like a gate latch.  I whipped them up one night at work and they seem to be working.  I made the slide bar out of 1/2" solid stainless so it won't corrode and become hard to move.  I turned the stainless bar down to 3/8" on one in and threaded the end of it.  Then I welded a smaller piece of bar at 90* for a handle.  I used 3/4" .120 tubing as a guide for the stainless bar and welded it all to a piece of 1/8" plate.  The extra piece of tubing at the top is so I can run it over with the buggy and the stainless bar won't get bent. 

They do flex upward slightly when in they are slid out because of the spring tension on the cables.  If I were to do it over again I would make them out of 3/4" bar or even 1".  I'll see how they do this season and I might upgrade them next summer.  I also made some new cables for the door since the old ones were showing wear and one had a kink in it.  I added a little spring tension and adjusted the pulleys so both cables go up evenly now.  Here's a couple pics.

~jw

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Your my hero right now!  I just got the exact trailer you have.  This is exactly what I was trying to figure out how to do.   My car won't fit with paddle tires, but I still needed a way to get those cables moved.  Going to steal alot of your ideas.  Genius.

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2 hours ago, r3meyer said:

Your my hero right now!  I just got the exact trailer you have.  This is exactly what I was trying to figure out how to do.   My car won't fit with paddle tires, but I still needed a way to get those cables moved.  Going to steal alot of your ideas.  Genius.

Right on. Post up how you do it. This is just a prototype and I’m sure it can be improved. 

 

JW

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10 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

So...when I loaded the car with the dirt tires, the front tires hit the spring assist cables.  Eventually it's going to break one of the cables or damage a tire.  I came up with a sliding bracket sorta like a gate latch.  I whipped them up one night at work and they seem to be working.  I made the slide bar out of 1/2" solid stainless so it won't corrode and become hard to move.  I turned the stainless bar down to 3/8" on one in and threaded the end of it.  Then I welded a smaller piece of bar at 90* for a handle.  I used 3/4" .120 tubing as a guide for the stainless bar and welded it all to a piece of 1/8" plate.  The extra piece of tubing at the top is so I can run it over with the buggy and the stainless bar won't get bent. 

They do flex upward slightly when in they are slid out because of the spring tension on the cables.  If I were to do it over again I would make them out of 3/4" bar or even 1".  I'll see how they do this season and I might upgrade them next summer.  I also made some new cables for the door since the old ones were showing wear and one had a kink in it.  I added a little spring tension and adjusted the pulleys so both cables go up evenly now.  Here's a couple pics.

~jw

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That is an awesome idea.

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Or, ..... since my tires hit the cable 

 

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47 minutes ago, 2011BFD said:

Or, ..... since my tires hit the cable 

 

I had a small atv winch that I was going to use for that but I gave it away...how did you hook it up to the door?  

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dude you Overkill everything!  that's a great idea and goes way farther than previous ones shown...I did something similar on my dad's trailer. I used a piece of 1x1 angle and put a piece of 3/4x3/4 angle inside of it with a half inch bolt welded underneath it threads sticking out with a nut for the cable to attach it... slid in and out with a small stop so that wouldn't over extend and pop out. just welded it with the pointed side up like a little pyramid. 

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1 hour ago, 2turbofords said:

dude you Overkill everything!  that's a great idea and goes way farther than previous ones shown...I did something similar on my dad's trailer. I used a piece of 1x1 angle and put a piece of 3/4x3/4 angle inside of it with a half inch bolt welded underneath it threads sticking out with a nut for the cable to attach it... slid in and out with a small stop so that wouldn't over extend and pop out. just welded it with the pointed side up like a little pyramid. 

I do tend to overdo everything....my wife calls me Mr. Overkill!  LOL 

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I took spring system out welded in brackets and screwed a hook to the floor. Winch was $50 from harbor freight.  Ran a 6 gauge wire to the battery

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12 hours ago, 2011BFD said:

I took spring system out welded in brackets and screwed a hook to the floor. Winch was $50 from harbor freight.  Ran a 6 gauge wire to the battery

I like it!

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