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New buggy owner here to bitch...

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3 minutes ago, r3meyer said:

Its kinda like Jeopardy.

They are not straight cut gears and you don’t want to use reverse in it...

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1 hour ago, lincster said:

And 934s. Lol

Where've you been? We on 935s now!

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I’m sorry you’re out of time on that one. The correct answer is “what is a 2D.” 

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Even if your front bearings are a little loose they are most likely still good. Pull it apart, pull the seals out, clean the bearings and inspect. I would bet you need just seals. I know my car ran probably 10 years before re-greasing and they looked like brand new. Its not like the front end runs under heavy load.

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Lot of stuff is custom but universal.Best to look see what you have then compare to whats out there.I live 5 min from makenzies so its easy for me.Ive learned saving a few bucks doesnt save you either because when it fails you end up buying the better part to replace it.

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But what everyone wants to know......Did you get the Gadgetman Groove yet?

:lmao:

Good luck with this little project...but admit it, you're having fun right?

:cheers:

 

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Just go to O'Reilly's or Autozone and tell them 2008 SU ultralight.    You'll get everything you need.     Make sure you tell them 2wd or 4wd!

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7 minutes ago, rampster said:

Just go to O'Reilly's or Autozone and tell them 2008 SU ultralight.    You'll get everything you need.     Make sure you tell them 2wd or 4wd!

The VATOZONE Has everything!

:dbart:

 

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3 hours ago, MWB said:

Should of just bought a Funco kit and built it your way from the start........

Do they still sell kits? I thought they were only building turnkey cars now.  Looking forward to seeing them at SSSS....

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2 hours ago, Chingon619 said:

Where've you been? We on 935s now!

Lol. My bad!!!!!

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The front hub bearings likely have the part # right on them

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New wiring looks clean.  Kat is right about the wiring harness.  Mine was all wound up and everything mounted to the floor.  Had to drop the floor to change a relay.  Moved everything to a side panel for easy access.  Still have a wad of wiring harness, but it's now hidden.

Agree you probably have Combos.  Should be fine for your car, but if you want to upgrade I'd go with King Kongs.  I had Ed at SU Sand Cars upgrade my SU Sand Pro 2 Mid Engine which weighs more than your car to King Kongs.  They machined my hubs for bigger bearings and I kept my same brake calipers and rotors.

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I would double shear the steering heim and add a gusset,  if you are running 8.80 then a combo works good if you are running 10.75 then needs a 2'' snout,

I would rather be safe, so on the combo, I do not run the aluminum nut has stripped them out,  if it does have aluminum nuts I would change them to a steel nut, so if they do come a little loose they do not strip off the spindle

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hydraulic power steering is far superior to electric.  switching is a step backwards.  the only reason you would install electric is cause you bought a car without it and found that to install hydraulic where it didnt have it was $2k

the fuelv pressure regulator is a stock unit.   expensive but very reliable.  personally i would be installing a black rubber hose as this hose has no pressure at all.  it looks like crap when people slide AN hose on a barb.   we sell a trick billet FPR for $125 that would look trick.  you will need one more fitting too.  but changing it to any brand should always have a redyno as future pressure could never be the same as old regulator or even have a different rate of rise under boost.  so between the regulator and tune youre dropping close to $500!  that black hose option looks nice and is $10.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

hydraulic power steering is far superior to electric.  switching is a step backwards.  the only reason you would install electric is cause you bought a car without it and found that to install hydraulic where it didnt have it was $2k

the fuelv pressure regulator is a stock unit.   expensive but very reliable.  personally i would be installing a black rubber hose as this hose has no pressure at all.  it looks like crap when people slide AN hose on a barb.   we sell a trick billet FPR for $125 that would look trick.  you will need one more fitting too.  but changing it to any brand should always have a redyno as future pressure could never be the same as old regulator or even have a different rate of rise under boost.  so between the regulator and tune youre dropping close to $500!  that black hose option looks nice and is $10.

He was all set to drop 2 grand and an untold amount of time. Thanks to you he can spend 10 bucks and 15 minutes. Not to mention a chunk of that would have been spent at your business. :thumbup:

Edited by SANDPSYCHO

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An easy way to ditch the hose is tubing cutter cut off the bubble for the hose barb then get a 2 peice compression fitting (should be 8mm and 5/16 should work) that will get you to NPT then you can add AN fittings / hoses/etc. OEM regulators are great, I'm had tons of leaky big name regulators. I will never use a mech. fuel pressure gauge on or near a motor. Fuel pressure is very buzzy (even with a liquid filled gauge) and when the tube inside cracks you'll have a huge leak and possible FIRE. Had a rail that was following burn up due to busted fuel pressure gauge. everbilt-water-heater-parts-accessories-

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21 minutes ago, JGSturbo said:

An easy way to ditch the hose is tubing cutter cut off the bubble for the hose barb then get a 2 peice compression fitting (should be 8mm and 5/16 should work) that will get you to NPT then you can add AN fittings / hoses/etc. OEM regulators are great, I'm had tons of leaky big name regulators. I will never use a mech. fuel pressure gauge on or near a motor. Fuel pressure is very buzzy (even with a liquid filled gauge) and when the tube inside cracks you'll have a huge leak and possible FIRE. Had a rail that was following burn up due to busted fuel pressure gauge. everbilt-water-heater-parts-accessories-

Don't forget some of this as well:

425D024ERL_L_f8264263-f771-4a81-9e02-c53

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1 hour ago, JGSturbo said:

An easy way to ditch the hose is tubing cutter cut off the bubble for the hose barb then get a 2 peice compression fitting (should be 8mm and 5/16 should work) that will get you to NPT then you can add AN fittings / hoses/etc. OEM regulators are great, I'm had tons of leaky big name regulators. I will never use a mech. fuel pressure gauge on or near a motor. Fuel pressure is very buzzy (even with a liquid filled gauge) and when the tube inside cracks you'll have a huge leak and possible FIRE. Had a rail that was following burn up due to busted fuel pressure gauge. everbilt-water-heater-parts-accessories-

Wow, I didn’t know about the fuel press gauge, I have one on my fuel rail.  I guess I’ll put a plug in there, thanks.  Nothing worse than fire

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22 hours ago, B0NES said:

They are not straight cut gears and you don’t want to use reverse in it...

Reverse is not bad on the S series transaxle have powered up a hill at full throttle in a S4 transaxle 

on my older car with a 2D I sneezed and the reverse broke 

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I had time to pull the spindles today.  I mic'ed them and I have combos.  Kind of cool that I got to break out my old machinist tools and get a good measure on them.  Haven't done that in ages.

The outer bearing was shot on the wheel I was concerned about.  Glad I went with my gut and checked these.  I'll be running over to Latest Rage in the morning and getting new front wheel bearings, races and seals.  Easy peasy.

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And this is where I bitch...

So I have front combos.  I bought a new set of bearings this morning, came home, prepped/greased them up and started installing them.  Got the races swapped on the first spindle put it on...the rotor hits.  The bearings are different brand and guess what...they are almost an 1/8" thicker!  

This is they type of crap I was talking about. 

SO...the only type of combo bearings that will work for my car are and older style of NTN brand bearings.  Of course no one carries them and I'm left to the internet to order them...which you can't talk to the place to see if they come with the race or not.

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31 minutes ago, Mac said:

And this is where I bitch...

So I have front combos.  I bought a new set of bearings this morning, came home, prepped/greased them up and started installing them.  Got the races swapped on the first spindle put it on...the rotor hits.  The bearings are different brand and guess what...they are almost an 1/8" thicker!  

This is they type of crap I was talking about. 

SO...the only type of combo bearings that will work for my car are and older style of NTN brand bearings.  Of course no one carries them and I'm left to the internet to order them...which you can't talk to the place to see if they come with the race or not.

Call Kartek, ask for Jeff Black, tell him your my buddy. He'll ship you what you need today. 

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2 minutes ago, L.R.S. said:

Call Kartek, ask for Jeff Black, tell him your my buddy. He'll ship you what you need today. 

I found what I needed and ordered it already.  

I need NTN bearing/race sets.  I had bought Timken, they aren't thick enough....go figure.  NTN are over .040 thicker.

Thanks again Jeff.  I appreciate you looking out and giving me info.

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22 hours ago, Mac said:

I found what I needed and ordered it already.  

I need NTN bearing/race sets.  I had bought Timken, they aren't thick enough....go figure.  NTN are over .040 thicker.

Thanks again Jeff.  I appreciate you looking out and giving me info.

Well, now you know, it was an adventure. Having fun yet?! :bigrin 

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Hey Mac, I suppose you finally feel the buggy pain and see why SxSs are so popular!  Of course, once you get it running right and get it on a good dune rip, you'll see nothing replaces a well sorted sand rail for pure duning.  Good luck with the adventure, and try not to let it burn you out (I've been there). 

 

-TJ
 

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