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ltpyro

piston skitrt clearance

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2 hours ago, ltpyro said:

So what's a reasonable expectation from a j35a4 with stock rods and pistons vs high quality forged rods and pistons?  I would love to make 500hp, 50/50 mixed fuel would be ok with me, don't want to run e85 though.  Been saving up for the build after this season.  Going to be a big job as its going to include a transmission swap, just not sure which one yet.

You can get 500hp from a tuned stock motor with 10-11psi boost and be somewhat reliable. 

Over 12-13psi boost you need rods, pistons, closed deck, etc

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1 hour ago, Legit Duner said:

You can get 500hp from a tuned stock motor with 10-11psi boost and be somewhat reliable. 

Over 12-13psi boost you need rods, pistons, closed deck, etc

So lets says 10 psi and upgraded internals, tuned with race fuel.  Should get me in the ball park???

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1 hour ago, Legit Duner said:

You can get 500hp from a tuned stock motor with 10-11psi boost and be somewhat reliable. 

With all due respect, I disagree. 

I really, really, really want to suggest an LS since you are going to be swapping the trans too, but I won't mention it here. 

:bag:

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1 hour ago, fortyfour said:

With all due respect, I disagree. 

I really, really, really want to suggest an LS since you are going to be swapping the trans too, but I won't mention it here. 

:bag:

Ok, fair enough. 

How about we just say it will spank the shit out of the LS you are suggesting?:legit:

 

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8 hours ago, fortyfour said:

With all due respect, I disagree. 

I really, really, really want to suggest an LS since you are going to be swapping the trans too, but I won't mention it here. 

:bag:

A V8 is off the table as I don't want the extra weight.  So its a turbo v6 for sure.  Just not 100% set on it being a Honda.  Although it seems with some fine tuning I can possibly get close to what I want.

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Quote

Speed Costs Money.

How Fast Do You Want To Go?

It's been said before, and I felt I should share it again.

"Vibration" exists everywhere.  All the "Monkey Motion" in the stock engine is magnified 100x in a "Performance" application.

Witness the "Top Fuel" drag engine, 20,000 HP or more, on a dyno, and

video it with a strobe light, the cylinders actually lift off the block..

Yore buggy engine will not do that.

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1 hour ago, JDMeister said:

It's been said before, and I felt I should share it again.

"Vibration" exists everywhere.  All the "Monkey Motion" in the stock engine is magnified 100x in a "Performance" application.

Witness the "Top Fuel" drag engine, 20,000 HP or more, on a dyno, and

video it with a strobe light, the cylinders actually lift off the block..

Yore buggy engine will not do that.

Well dang I was hoping to put wings on it and fly lol.

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21 hours ago, Legit Duner said:

You can get 500hp from a tuned stock motor with 10-11psi boost and be somewhat reliable. 

Over 12-13psi boost you need rods, pistons, closed deck, etc

Not calling you out, but I wouldn't hang my hat on that rack for 1 second..

There are tons of blown up boosted Honda stories on this board.  

I started a topic for it.  Lets see how it unfolds.  Be nice to have the guys with built motors offer info too.  HERE

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27 minutes ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Not calling you out, but I wouldn't hang my hat on that rack for 1 second..

There are tons of blown up boosted Honda stories on this board.  

I started a topic for it.  Lets see how it unfolds.  Be nice to have the guys with built motors offer info too.  HERE

This will be an awesome thread... when people post to it.  Looking forward to the read.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Not calling you out, but I wouldn't hang my hat on that rack for 1 second..

There are tons of blown up boosted Honda stories on this board.  

I started a topic for it.  Lets see how it unfolds.  Be nice to have the guys with built motors offer info too.  HERE

I can't post in that thread because mine never blew. Haha. ( Although my first Dyno tune grenaded the motor)

I did say " somewhat" reliable.

I will say I was at 11psi my last year before I sold the car. I know it lasted after I sold it but lost touch with new owner so I don't know how long it lasted. At 7psi I had 330whp on a stingy dyno I am  told. (Efi university)

Theoretically, at 14psi, it should be double the hp. 

In the end, we all know what it's capable of. If 500 is too much to swallow so be it. It's a performer. 

 

 

Edited by Legit Duner

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14 minutes ago, Legit Duner said:

I can't post in that thread because mine never blew. Haha. ( Although my first Dyno tune grenaded the motor)

I did say " somewhat" reliable.

I will say I was at 11psi my last year before I sold the car. I know it lasted after I sold it but lost touch with new owner so I don't know how long it lasted. At 7psi I had 330whp on a stingy dyno I am  told. (Efi university)

Theoretically, at 14psi, it should be double the hp. 

In the end, we all know what it's capable of. If 500 is too much to swallow so be it. It's a performer. 

 

 

at 14psi, double of what?  If you motor made 330 RWHP at 7 psi  lets call that 1.5 atmospheres so the motor would have made 220n/a correct (one atmosphere)?   so then at 14.7psi of boost it should make 440 RWHP

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3 minutes ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

at 14psi, double of what?  If you motor made 330 RWHP at 7 psi  lets call that 1.5 atmospheres so the motor would have made 220n/a correct (one atmosphere)?   so then at 14.7psi of boost it should make 440 RWHP

Of stock hp, yes. I know it's not a perfect world and it's theoretical.

You would know more than I , what's your experience tell you?

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14psi from NA.  Ya know, like most everybody else?  LOL

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Just now, Legit Duner said:

Of stock hp, yes. I know it's not a perfect world and it's theoretical.

You would know more than I , what's your experience tell you?

I agree,  its just your previous post was a little vague.  most readers are not informed about 14.7= double of the n/a HP  you were talking 7 psi then said at 14 its double.  could have been misconstrued to mean double the 7psi HP numbers.  just wanted to clear it up.  I have had some motors actually make more than double when 14.7 psi was applied==that's a bonus!

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Has anyone tried wire o-ringing the block and heads to see if it game some more stability under boost?

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On ‎8‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 4:41 PM, ltpyro said:

This will be an awesome thread... when people post to it.  Looking forward to the read.

OMG, that is so funny, I think everyone in there mind feels a LS weight is around 10,000lbs,  but if you run a stock intake, sheet-metal valve covers sheet-metal oil pan and the aluminum balancer, I bet it is the same or less weight as a Honda Turbo, last I checked the Honda was that crazy big intake and heads with a cast iron turbo dual steel cams and large aluminum cams with steel oil pan

not sure if this is correct but the Honda Turbo when I checked was 360lbs with the exhaust and turbo,

LS aluminum motor is 430lbs with AC unit and brackets,  400lbs no AC,  when you remove the AC pump, billet bracket instead of cast, LS3 water pump is lighter by 5lbs, and all the sheet-metal parts replace the steel balancer with a smaller aluminum balancer, aluminum idler pulleys it get down to 375lbs, with no power steering pump and no power steering pulley, and smaller belt it drops to 365lbs,

On ‎8‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 5:27 AM, ltpyro said:

A V8 is off the table as I don't want the extra weight.  So its a turbo v6 for sure.  Just not 100% set on it being a Honda.  Although it seems with some fine tuning I can possibly get close to what I want.

so you do not want to do a LS due to the Extra 5lbs of weight?   a 5.3 stroked to a 383 on 91 octane make 575HP and around 500HP of torque,

I have also done 4 last year, conversions from Hondas to LS Aluminum, 

One of the members said that he hated his car and was just to many issues, this was a Honda motor turbo, we did a factory 5.3 with factory harness on 87 octane, and now it is his favorite toy and walks away from the other Honda's in Camp,

the motor complete with ECU and headers adapter ready to go was just around $3000-3500, this was with new oil pump, timing chain, new oil pan, intake and valve covers, Kennedy clutch with stainless headers,

They really are worth doing over saving the 5lbs   

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2 hours ago, J Alper said:

OMG, that is so funny, I think everyone in there mind feels a LS weight is around 10,000lbs,  but if you run a stock intake, sheet-metal valve covers sheet-metal oil pan and the aluminum balancer, I bet it is the same or less weight as a Honda Turbo, last I checked the Honda was that crazy big intake and heads with a cast iron turbo dual steel cams and large aluminum cams with steel oil pan

not sure if this is correct but the Honda Turbo when I checked was 360lbs with the exhaust and turbo,

LS aluminum motor is 430lbs with AC unit and brackets,  400lbs no AC,  when you remove the AC pump, billet bracket instead of cast, LS3 water pump is lighter by 5lbs, and all the sheet-metal parts replace the steel balancer with a smaller aluminum balancer, aluminum idler pulleys it get down to 375lbs, with no power steering pump and no power steering pulley, and smaller belt it drops to 365lbs,

so you do not want to do a LS due to the Extra 5lbs of weight?   a 5.3 stroked to a 383 on 91 octane make 575HP and around 500HP of torque,

I have also done 4 last year, conversions from Hondas to LS Aluminum, 

One of the members said that he hated his car and was just to many issues, this was a Honda motor turbo, we did a factory 5.3 with factory harness on 87 octane, and now it is his favorite toy and walks away from the other Honda's in Camp,

the motor complete with ECU and headers adapter ready to go was just around $3000-3500, this was with new oil pump, timing chain, new oil pan, intake and valve covers, Kennedy clutch with stainless headers,

They really are worth doing over saving the 5lbs   

My stock Honda with a turbo  loves guys with spicy v8s....

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2 hours ago, J Alper said:

OMG, that is so funny, I think everyone in there mind feels a LS weight is around 10,000lbs,  but if you run a stock intake, sheet-metal valve covers sheet-metal oil pan and the aluminum balancer, I bet it is the same or less weight as a Honda Turbo, last I checked the Honda was that crazy big intake and heads with a cast iron turbo dual steel cams and large aluminum cams with steel oil pan

not sure if this is correct but the Honda Turbo when I checked was 360lbs with the exhaust and turbo,

LS aluminum motor is 430lbs with AC unit and brackets,  400lbs no AC,  when you remove the AC pump, billet bracket instead of cast, LS3 water pump is lighter by 5lbs, and all the sheet-metal parts replace the steel balancer with a smaller aluminum balancer, aluminum idler pulleys it get down to 375lbs, with no power steering pump and no power steering pulley, and smaller belt it drops to 365lbs,

.......

They really are worth doing over saving the 5lbs   

We've done this before.  Your math is wrong.  Too lazy to dig it up though.

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6 hours ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

We've done this before.  Your math is wrong.  Too lazy to dig it up though.

math is correct on the Ls with all the sheet metal parts and ls3 water pump, not sure on the honda but the honda with turbo system is not the lightest, is someone was worried about the weight then they need a Subi 

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On 8/25/2019 at 6:56 PM, Legit Duner said:

J motors are making up to a claimed 6-700whp on stock bottom ends. (Street racers)

Way different levels of abuse...

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, JGSturbo said:

Way different levels of abuse...

http://blog.wiseco.com/aaron-oneals-1100hp-v6-swapped-civic-hatch?hs_amp=true

 

1000hp j35 doing nothing but 1/4 mile digs.

(Stock crank and block) 

Edited by Legit Duner

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Block and crank don't constitute a "stock bottom end".

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Making power on the street when you get on it once  or twice, is way different than beating on it like in the dunes, I am with Kraut_n_Rice  on this one, 

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24 minutes ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Block and crank don't constitute a "stock bottom end".

I wasn't suggesting it was. I'm just pointing out the stout parts, weak link is the rods on the bottom end, and some of them are truly forged, not powder metal forge which are common. 

 

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Posted (edited)
23 minutes ago, J Alper said:

Making power on the street when you get on it once  or twice, is way different than beating on it like in the dunes, I am with Kraut_n_Rice  on this one, 

A HP queen at 1800hp just running the drags sees the same, if not less abuse than street racers. Hitting the limiter all day with races all day and night isn't exactly driving Mrs. Daisey

Edited by Legit Duner

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