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Rockwood

Countersunk Panel Washers

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Finishing up my rebuild and going to fab some panels for it. Anyone used something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3199FB/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_eHPDDb8ZZ55GE

And have any problems? Was going to run them to recessed tabs with a backing washer and nut (along with weather stripping) to keep the panel from deforming or rattling against the chassis.

And no dzus fasteners. I really really really really really hate them and don’t need to take side panels on and off very often, so no need for convenience. 

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Maybe Im not understanding how your planning on using these...... 

I don't see how that would be helpful @ all.  Seems like running a pan head with a large head or a washer under the head, would work better.  all these would do is allow the use of a counter sunk screw on a flat surface. 

Bob

 

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WTF he ^^ said

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Go with the gold...…..

 

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i dont see why they wouldnt work.  Not much different than a standard fender washer.  

 

Id suggest welding the nuts to the back of the bracket or using a threaded weld nut.... otherwise your gonna need someone inside with a wrench and one person out side unscrewing the screws.  

 

weld nut.jpg

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50 minutes ago, Bobalos said:

Maybe Im not understanding how your planning on using these...... 

I don't see how that would be helpful @ all.  Seems like running a pan head with a large head or a washer under the head, would work better.  all these would do is allow the use of a counter sunk screw on a flat surface. 

Bob

 

These look cleeeeeeaaaaaan. :bigrin 

Might still just do allen caps, but these aren't much more than a similar stainless washer and come in purty colors. 

23 minutes ago, HBFENDERBENDER said:

i dont see why they wouldnt work.  Not much different than a standard fender washer.  

 

Id suggest welding the nuts to the back of the bracket or using a threaded weld nut.... otherwise your gonna need someone inside with a wrench and one person out side unscrewing the screws.  

 

weld nut.jpg

Was going to use either a weld-nut like above or a rivnut (for ease of fixing future F-ups since they're only M3 or M4 bolts and this is the sand).  

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Mcmaster carr sells these in stainless cheaper. I have sets in 5/16 i was planning on using on my jeep fenders when i get around to it. Have extra if you wanna give them a try

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I personally feel the panels look cheap when people use bolts, makes it look like they do not care or just did not have the skill to do it correctly,  if you do not want to countersink the Zues fastner, they make a button head,

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1 hour ago, J Alper said:

I personally feel the panels look cheap when people use bolts, makes it look like they do not care or just did not have the skill to do it correctly,  if you do not want to countersink the Zues fastner, they make a button head,

Just not a fan of dzus fasteners partially for the reason they're a pain to setup: any change in panel to spring depth results in loose dzus fasteners, which rattle like crazy.  Thin sheetmetal doesn't stay where it was made forever.  

And I think flathead fasteners of any type look ghetto. :bigrin 

Countersinking is super easy with this guy:

https://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac000200-d.html

Hell, if I find it, I'll post it here since I'll never need it again. :bigrin 

2 hours ago, sausage450r said:

Mcmaster carr sells these in stainless cheaper. I have sets in 5/16 i was planning on using on my jeep fenders when i get around to it. Have extra if you wanna give them a try

Hrmmmmmmmmm..............

https://www.mcmaster.com/98466a029

Nice find.  Should've known to check there first.  Can also more easily find matching hardware.  Thanks mang!

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FWIW, I used Stainless button heads with 1" heads on them on a carbon fiber wrap & I think it came out pretty nice.  I wanted the black onyx finish, but could not get the larger button head in that finish & it was not important enough for me to get them anodized or anything.    I put some vinyl on the back sides of the panels, so they did not sit on the tubes.  The only problem with Stainless, is you have to use anti seize or they will seize in the nuts. 

1963740600_Panelsonbuggy.thumb.jpg.a37de919ef28fba07776a23210ebb64a.jpg

 

here are both:

350304792_Panelwithbothscrews.thumb.jpg.1d14cfa3e411aeaa4af6e2c97cea3fc1.jpg

Edited by Bobalos

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I’m probably gonna use these guys on the chassis tabs:

https://www.mcmaster.com/96439a560

Use them a lot at work and they’re pretty stout. Stainless:stainless, so won’t need anti seize, and if they fail, you just smack them out with a punch and replace. 

Edited by Rockwood

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These are pretty cool too steve, squeeze nuts.

155A022B-1BF9-4C4F-86CC-58232A7D4AD3.jpeg

6EEBD5E5-EFE6-4815-A4B3-289CE6390ADC.jpeg

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53 minutes ago, sausage450r said:

These are pretty cool too steve, squeeze nuts.

155A022B-1BF9-4C4F-86CC-58232A7D4AD3.jpeg

6EEBD5E5-EFE6-4815-A4B3-289CE6390ADC.jpeg

Yeah, I have a tool for those too. Never had to deal with a broken one. You have to drill them out to replace, no?

Edited by Rockwood

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Allen button head zues fastner, and done. The spring just needs a little bend if the panel becomes loose no big deal. Carry on.

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2 minutes ago, 2turbofords said:

Allen button head zues fastner, and done. The spring just needs a little bend if the panel becomes loose no big deal. Carry on.

Still hate them... :bigrin 

That hatred had me already put a bunch of regular tabs on the chassis, so too late anyway.

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36 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Yeah, I have a tool for those too. Never had to deal with a broken one. You have to drill them out to replace, no?

When they stop working they usually spin. So drilling is a a pain. On the stuff I use them for I can’t pop them out from the other side. But when they fail getting them out usually wollers the hole. 

Edited by jtmoney714

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1 minute ago, jtmoney714 said:

When they stop working they usually spin. So drilling is a a pain. On the stuff I size them for I can pop them out from the other side. But when they fail getting them out usually wollers the hole. 

Sand them flush and knock them out   If damaged if loose crimp more. Use alumn on alumn, steel on steel, stainless on stainless and they should last if installed correctly. Im replacing alumn ones on 60 year old airplanes with 6000 hrs of flight time

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3 minutes ago, jtmoney714 said:

When they stop working they usually spin. So drilling is a a pain. On the stuff I size them for I can pop them out from the other side. But when they fail getting them out usually wollers the hole. 

Gotcha.  Think I'll either stick to PEMs or just enlist the boy to hold the wrench on the inside. :bigrin 

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1 minute ago, sausage450r said:

Sand them flush and knock them out   If damaged if loose crimp more. Use alumn on alumn, steel on steel, stainless on stainless and they should last if installed correctly. Im replacing alumn ones on 60 year old airplanes with 6000 hrs of flight time

Duh.  Thanks

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1 minute ago, Rockwood said:

Gotcha.  Think I'll either stick to PEMs or just enlist the boy to hold the wrench on the inside. :bigrin 

 

2 minutes ago, sausage450r said:

Sand them flush and knock them out   If damaged if loose crimp more. Use alumn on alumn, steel on steel, stainless on stainless and they should last if installed correctly. Im replacing alumn ones on 60 year old airplanes with 6000 hrs of flight time

Ya mine fail because something hits what is attached to it. But I’m a perfect world they work just fine. I use them when I don’t have enough meat to run a tap. 

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