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L.R.S.

Complete tear down and makeover on my car

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45 minutes ago, punkur67 said:

 

Grease Monkey,

He is going for the dramatic @John@Outfront Mtrsprts style story.  

😎😎

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On 9/24/2019 at 12:32 PM, dbart said:

I got you...I think it was this one right? First one I did when you asked

:lmao:

:bag:

:cheers:

Ok, in all seriousness...Thank you Jeff for letting me a part of this.

Can't wait to see it all done!

LRS_Super Bad Ass.jpg

All you need is your Uggs 👌🏼

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4 hours ago, cali kid said:

All you need is your Uggs 👌🏼

What's wrong with Uggs?

Don't test me bro! :lol:

 

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I'm freaking dying over the Dbart rendering.... :lmao:

 

:swave: loves it... :lol:

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3 hours ago, Grease Monkey said:

What's wrong with Uggs?

Don't test me bro! :lol:

 

It’s a touchy subject.

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10 minutes ago, cali kid said:

It’s a touchy subject.

I could see Jeff in Uggs. 😊

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28 minutes ago, Grease Monkey said:

I could see Jeff in Uggs. 😊

Uggs are only allowable if your wife bought them for you.  And if it helps, mine have blood on them, and it's not my blood.

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I piked up the rest of the stuff a week or so later.

 

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Called  few friends to help get the chassis off the trailer and into my shop.  Spent some time looking at the new powder coat and it quickly became apparent that going with the lowest bidder was a bad call on my part.  I was told the PC shop wouldn't plug the threaded holes and I figured for the price they gave me (half of what another shop wanted) I was fine chasing threads myself.  The problem is they also didn't plug the front and rear arm pivot points or cover the CHP assigned VIN tag.  But the worst was the steering column with the bearings.  FYI this is not the same powder coat shop I mentioned earlier in this thread, those guys are badass and id a great job on my other parts.

 

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I put anti-seize on the steering shaft and tapped it in a little while turning it back and fourth.  remove, clean, repeat going in a little further each time.  I finally got it clean enough so there was no resistance on the steering shaft at all.

 

I didn't really have a plan to put the car back in any particular order other than I didn't want to do things twice.  I would Locktite every nut and bolt and anti-seize all the pivot points.  Doing that twice would suck.  I started putting on little things I knew wouldn't be in the way of bolting on other parts.

 

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Can you actually feel the dimples in the powder coat of your frame?   Or is it smooth and just looks dimpled in the pics?

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5 hours ago, Flip-Flop said:

Can you actually feel the dimples in the powder coat of your frame?   Or is it smooth and just looks dimpled in the pics?

You can feel them.

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20190724_171752.jpg

 

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Got the Albins set in the chassis with help from my son and board member @Grey Mamba, who happened to be at my house prepping his @GEAR-ONE.COM 930 CV's and hubs.  He's camera shy so no pics of him.  I had considered painting the Albins with black Steel-It but was lazy and never got around to it. Would have looked cool though.

 

 

 

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The motor mounts needed new bushings and I grabbed a set at Kartek.  The ID was 1/2" but I needed them bigger for the crush sleeve so I drilled them out to 5/8".

 

 

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Crush sleeves have been in this car for a while.

 

 

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 A couple seconds on the wire wheel and they clean up easily.  It's the little things like this that are taking up extra time but it's also these little things that make the biggest difference.

 

 

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A little dab of grease before the crush sleeve goes in.

 

 

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Edited by L.R.S.

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The front end was next.

 

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I cleaned up all the front end crush sleeves and bushings before installing them.  Time consuming but well worth it.

 

 

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I also put a thin layer of grease in the mounts.

 

 

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This is one of the original bolts off the front end.  Looks like shit.  I can't tell you how many times I pull cars apart and find the wrong length bolts installed.  I recently pulled the shocks off a very nice $200k car.  The bolts were almost all thread with hardly any shoulder at all.  The threads will work like a saw blade and cut the bolt hole which I've seen many many times.  I'm working on another car now that has this and I'm adding weld washers to correct the problem.

 

 

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I used the original bolts temporarily while I waited for my new RPI hardware to show up.  @9rocky at RPI makes the BEST hardware out there.  I've known Kevin for many years and once I had all my measurements for the arms and shocks I hit him up and he got me dialed in with bolts that have the exact grip length I needed.  That means no threads in the bolt holes and no future issues.

 

 

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The lower arm wouldn't drop into the mounts.  I figured it was a little distorted from the powder coat process.

 

 

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Used a ratchet strap to pull the arm into place.

 

 

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One down, three to go.

 

 

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Upper arms were much easier then the lowers.

 

 

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I put the uprights on but I knew I'd have to take them back off.

 

 

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The powder coater got a little overzealous.  I need to remove the PC from the 2" hollow spindles, but that'll happen later on.  

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Looking good!!

Thanks for the tip regarding bolts.

So in reading about the bolts and the threads, there should absolutely be no threads in the holes?

So get a lil longer bolt and add a washer and all will be fine?

I can see that the threads are almost gone from moving within the hole.

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On 9/27/2019 at 5:30 AM, sinverguenza said:

Looking good!!

Thanks for the tip regarding bolts.

So in reading about the bolts and the threads, there should absolutely be no threads in the holes?

So get a lil longer bolt and add a washer and all will be fine?

I can see that the threads are almost gone from moving within the hole.

You measure bolts for "grip length" which is the how much shank, aka shoulder, is needed vs how much thread is needed.  Ideally you want as much shoulder and as little thread as possible.  When I was prepping the Class 1 cars I used to custom cut all the suspension hardware.  It sucked but was a necessity.   

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I've put these pics up a few times in different threads but here they are again.

 

 

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I had David with @shock_prep_unlimited on IG rebuild my King's.  I asked him to install new black sliders for the coilovers and have the springs powder coated black.  Once I got them back I removed all the stickers and scrubbed them clean in preparation for the Steel It paint.  

 

 

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I get asked a lot if the spring adjusters will take the paint off- the answer is yes and sometimes no.  Only one of my 4 coilovers needed to be touched up after setting the preload adjuster.

 

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20190804_203752.jpg

Once the rear arms were on the car I really wanted to see the shocks on too.

 

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Bro, the money shot already!!! 😁

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6 hours ago, L.R.S. said:

You measure bolts for "grip length" which is the how much shank, aka shoulder, is needed vs how much thread is needed.  Ideally you want as much shoulder and as little thread as possible.  When I was prepping the Class 1 cars I used to custom cut all the suspension hardware.  It sucked but was a necessity.   

Thanks, for educating me. 

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With the trans 100% bolted up an the pump and hoses all hooked up I could start putting more stuff on the car.  The fuel cell was first an then the radiator.  I set them in place and they looked like shit.  So I ripped them down for powder coat.

 

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Holley hydramat I had installed when the fuel cell was rebuilt in 2017.  These aren't cheap but they are worth every penny.  My fuel cell had a 'slosh box' in it and the pickup hose was limited and couldn't get the last 1" of fuel which has to be a couple gallons at least.  Now I can get every drop of fuel in the cell.

 

 

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This is what two full seasons of fuel, probably 400 gallons of fuel going through a Holley hydramat looks like.  For those that aren't familiar with them they do not require the 100 micron pre-filter.  The mat works as a filter.

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Radiator, fan shroud, fuel cell and @GEAR-ONE.COM hub caps all getting PC'd 50% satin black.  I had numerouse people tell me that once a radiator was powder coated it couldn't be repaired if it has a leak.  Don't know why that would be true but I asked the PC shop about it and they said they've done a lot of radiators.  

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The new PC shop I'm using is really fast and got the parts back to me in a few days.

 

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I used this 2" wide thick tape on the corners of the fuel cell where it will sit in the cradle.

 

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I also lined the top mounting brackets and cut off the excess.

 

 

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The radiator was next.

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I used the same tape on the top radiator brackets.

 

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The PC shop did a great job plugging the holes and covering the threaded AN fittings.

 

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The silver hardware looked bad so I painted the bolts with Steel It.

 

 

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Always check threaded holes for debris.

 

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I'm really glad I decided to do this now.  One they were bolted in the car I never would have taken them back out for powder coat.

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15 hours ago, Rockwood said:

Yeah, that's the stuff.  A buddy gave me the roll I have now so I wasn't sure where to get it.  Thanks, I'll add the link to my Amazon Wish List for buggy stuff.

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Your poor 2in hollow, not like you can just grab some MEK to strip it real fast in CA.

I hate striping powder, its tough and messy.

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The full use of "Polyken" Pipe Tape.  Very Nice!:igar:

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