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L.R.S.

Complete tear down and makeover on my car

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9 hours ago, L.R.S. said:

Yeah, that's the stuff.  A buddy gave me the roll I have now so I wasn't sure where to get it.  Thanks, I'll add the link to my Amazon Wish List for buggy stuff.

That link sucked :lol: not sure what tape to look for!

https://www.amazon.com/Polyken-510-BLK225-Premium-Gaffers/dp/B00ZXDXL1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=polyken+tape&qid=1570027707&s=gateway&sprefix=polyken+&sr=8-9

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Love this thread!

:headbang:

Looking good!

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4 hours ago, Stugots said:

Nice!

But mine seemed to work fine and was cheaper... :bigrin 

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16 hours ago, JGSturbo said:

Your poor 2in hollow, not like you can just grab some MEK to strip it real fast in CA.

I hate striping powder, its tough and messy.

I miss MEK too, had barrels of that stuff around when I worked in the aerospace industry in the early 90's.

 

 

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I pulled them off and tied a wire wheel and it worked really well.

 

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It took about 15 minutes per spindle to get them cleaned up, not too bad.

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As most are aware CNC has closed it shop for good and replacement parts are getting scarce.  I was warned about the impending closure by my sales guy at Kartek a few months before the official announcement and I just shrugged my shoulders and said I was good on parts.  Jamar makes direct replacement master cylinders and I had already used one for my clutch master cylinder.  Cut to months and months later and I'm putting my car back together and I remembered how much my brakes sucked and I should rebuild the masters while they are torn down.  I only tore them own so I could remove the brake pedal and have it powder coated.  It was a PIA.  I called my Kartek rep to order a 3/4" and a 7/8" rebuild kit.  He said they only had one 7/8" kit left.  Dammit.  A friend on another off-road forum told me to hit up Butch's Speed Shop in Las Vegas.  Sure as shit I called and they had plenty in stock.  I order two 3/4" and one 7/8" (got one from Kartek).

 

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This is how far I had to take the pedal assembly apart to get the brake pedal off.

 

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The rebuild is pretty basic.

 

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Annnnnd my pedals didn't get plugged for powder coat so I had to 'clean' them up a little to get the bias bar installed.

 

 

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One more thing checked off the list.

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My new RPI hardware showed up so it was time to put the front end together and lock it down.

 

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These are mil spec bolts so a 1/2" hole needs to be exactly that- 1/2".  A little powder coat in the hole means it's time to drill.

 

 

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My small right angle rill was still to big to get into the space so I had to start off with a step bit, remove that, install the 1/2" bit and drill, remove the drill from the it an then remove the bit.  Took a while but I got the job done.

 

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I cannot stress this enough- use anti seize on pivot points and ESPECIALLY on bolts that go through stainless misalignment's.  Dissimilar metals don't play well with each other.

 

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And use good drill bits too...

 

 

Front end was installed and locked down (means torqued with Loctite) so I installed the new shock hardware.  I had to drill all those holes out too.

 

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1.5" is pretty standard for shocks.

 

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1 5/16" is not standard.  Thanks powder coating shop for smashing my chassis around and bending my shock mounts.

 

 

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A little adjustment with a large adjustable wrench and it was good to go.

 

 

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Front end was on but I still needed to prep the hubs.  The only parts I have NEVER touched are the front hubs.  I check them every trip and they haven't ever felt loose so I was curious to see what they looked like.

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i like 

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For most of last season I had a 'noise' coming from the rear of the car.  On a trip to Duners Diner I found a couple of missing floor bolts and they happened to have the same size bolts so those were easily replaced.  Didn't hear the noise all the way back to Roadrunner and figured it was taken care of.  But you can't really hear much at 90mph for 18 miles straight.  Damn I love that drive in my car!  On our next outing I heard the noise again.  And every trip it got worse and worse, and I continued to ignore it.  On my last trip of the season in late March, also my birthday weekend, the noise was bad and I could also feel it in the drive train.  Rather then keep rolling the dice I parked the car for the final day of duning and jumped into my buddy @DZRTRUN Funco Gen 6.  When I was swapping my paddles for my trailer tires I could feel the CV binding when I tried to spin the wheel.  Pretty sure it was a bad CV and was really hoping the wheel bearings were ok.  

A little history on the hubs- I did a full tear down and prep on these rear hubs, CV's and axles in Sept 2015 when I first bought the car.  The CV's and axles were wasted and I bought replacements.  In April 2018 on the right side of the car I lost the trans side spiral clip (I never install them on the hub side, they're useless) and damaged a CV star when the splines came out of the star and ground it and the axle splines.  I replaced the star and a torn inner rubber boot and ran all last season with zero issues.  

My hubs had been off the car for a while and I finally got around to tearing them down.  I knew the left side was going to be bad an the first thing I found was a severely torn up inner CV boot.

 

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At least the right side looked intact.

 

 

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I found the noise!  Pretty dry in there.

 

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This is exactly how they came out and I haven't wiped them off at all.20190731_222521.jpg

And when I did wipe them the rag was full of shiny metal.  Never a good sign.

 

 

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Trans side star on the left and hub side on the right.  Wasted!

 

Once all the parts were cleaned up and inspected I had two bad CV stars and one questionable wheel bearing.  I picked up replacement parts at Kartek and reassembled the hubs.

 

 

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 I should have done this before assembling the hubs but got ahead of myself.

 

 

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I did remember to chase all the threads before assembling the other hub.

 

 

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Hub assembly-

 

 

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Outside bearing is set in the hub.  I use NEO HP800 full synthetic wheel bearing grease.  

 

 

 

 

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Inside bearing is greased and set in the bearing carrier.

 

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The hub seal came out cleanly so it will be reused.

 

 

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A little bit of red Loctite on the seal.

 

 

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Hub seal set into bearing carrier and gently tapped into place.

 

 

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Assembled CV set into hub bearing.  Sometimes they don't seat all the way so I use a sand hammer to tap it down a little.

 

 

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Bearing carrier is set on the hub.  Notice the CV bolts.  I use them to keep the CV and hub holes lined up.

 

 

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This grease needs to be cleaned off.  The bolt ring will be against the CV body and the two surfaces need to be clean for proper torque.  If there is grease present when they are torqued the grease will eventually work its way out due to centrifugal force and that will create a space which can allow the bolts to come loose.

 

 

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I use a screwdriver tip to get as much grease out as possible.

 

 

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Clean and ready for the CV bolt ring.

 

 

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Red Loctite on the threads.

 

 

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I pack the CV with Swepco Moly 101 using a needle tip on the grease gun.

 

 

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Then I put a layer of BelRay Anti Seize on top of that with the caulking gun.

 

 

 

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Clamp the hub in the bench vise and torque the 1/2" boots to 95 lb/ft in a crisscross pattern- 75# then 85# and a final pass at 95#.  

 

 

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I use two temporary long bolts to spin the hub after each pass to feel for binding and make sure the wheel bearings are moving freely.

 

The rear hubs are done and ready for install on the car.  But I'm off till Sunday and have some drinking to catch up on this weekend at our local Oktoberfest in Montrose so no updates till Sunday, if I'm not hungover AF.

 

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On 9/30/2019 at 1:41 AM, Chingon619 said:

Bro, the money shot already!!! 😁

come back in a month.......... WE like the write ups and lots of peeps will, can and might learn something like me :bigrin

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2 hours ago, I'm Sorry said:

come back in a month.......... WE like the write ups and lots of peeps will, can and might learn something like me :bigrin

Them youngins want everything NOWNOWNOW! :bigrin 

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Rear hubs were done so I finally got to the fronts.  As I said earlier in this thread the front hubs are the one thing I have NEVER touched on this car.  They always felt tight so there was no reason to mess with them, till now.20190731_192605.jpg

Don't know what brand of wheel bearing grease this is, or if it's even actually wheel bearing grease or just some all purpose grease.

 

 

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Dammit, ruined one seal removing it.  They aren't expensive, just not available locally.  Ordered a new set from Kartek and had them shipped.

 

 

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Bearings looked great.

 

 

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Back on the car.  Just waiting for the hub caps to get back from powder coat.

 

 

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Posted (edited)
On 10/4/2019 at 7:35 PM, Rockwood said:

Them youngins want everything NOWNOWNOW! :bigrin 

Ofcourse! Instant gratification!! But I'll wait, I don't mind a pic or two of a damaged seal at the time of removal. LOL 

 

Edited to add: in Buzz lightyear voice "I come in peace"

Edited by Chingon619

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These 3/4" RPI hardware bolts are not cheap at almost $75 each, but they will out last the car so they're worth it.

 

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Gathered up the hub bolts, put a little dab of red Loctite on each one and started putting them in.  Then I remembered when I took the hubs off the car I was missing a few bolts.  It's actually pretty common.  I thought about drill each bolt, or even half of the bolts, for safety wire, but I didn't have enough of the allen heads.  I did, however, have a bunch of 12 point bolts I could install, but I'm NOT drilling those for safety wire.  Eff all that.

 

 

 

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And of course the bolts are a little too long.  So I cut down twenty four 5/16"bolts.

 

 

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Ran a die across the too.

 

 

 

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Rear hubs are bolted up.

 

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Annnd more thread chasing.  I should have checked the caliper bolt holes before putting the hubs on the car.  Would have been easier to clean them up.

 

 

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While the calipers are off I decided to drill the bolts for safety wire.

 

 

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So that's done.  Ignore that the CV's and axles are installed, I'm getting to that...

 

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9 minutes ago, L.R.S. said:

These 3/4" RPI hardware bolts are not cheap at almost $75 each, but they will out last the car so they're worth it.

damn 

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Thanks for the updates and the how to tutorial.

Great job as always.

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so i see you use a standard tap to chase most of your threads,  have you considered using "thread chasers" instead?  they clean and straighten but dont cut any material out?

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4 hours ago, John@Outfront Mtrsprts said:

so i see you use a standard tap to chase most of your threads,  have you considered using "thread chasers" instead?  they clean and straighten but dont cut any material out?

I've never used them, but this isn't something  I do very often.  I'll look into them for the next job.

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Time to make some more space on the shop and get the engine in the car.

 

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Of all the LS engines I've pulled out and reinstalled I never really know how it's going to go.  Might be super easy, might be a mother father.  I installed my engine in the middle of the day and no one was around.  Regardless, this has to be the easiest LS install I've ever done.  It might have been 30 minutes from setting up the hoist, lifting the engine, getting it lined up and then bolted up.  It did help that I don't have wheels/tires on the car so I can lower the chassis all the way to the floor.  I kept questioning the ease of the install but I didn't change anything, same clutch that was on the engine and I never removed it, same TO bearing in the trans.  It just went smooth.

 

 

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I got the dry sump tank mounted and ran the oil lines, then hooked up the radiator lines and fuel system.  My fuel system is a mix if red/blue an some all black AN fittings and the more I looked at it the uglier they got.  I forget who posted up a link to anfittings.com  but I logged on and checked pricing to re-plumb my entire fuel system and upgrade to PTFE.  I was surprised that everything I needed was less than $200 so I placed the order and got my parts a few days later.

 

 

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Because of my Holley Hydramat I don't need the 100 micron pre-filter in my system.  I was lazy and left the filter housing in-line but used the excuse that I like having a petcock to shut the fuel off.  But I never do that so it wasn't reinstalled this time, just the 10 micron post fuel pump filter.

 

 

 

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I whipped up a pair of aluminum 'soft jaws' for my vise out of some tubing I had laying around.

 

 

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I used these cable cutters for the PTFE hose.  Worked great.  Might have been because they are brand new.

 

 

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My old fuel lines.

 

 

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With everything plumbed I removed the fuel line at the fuel rail and ran it into a fuel jug.  I cycled the ignition ON/OFF a few times to purge the fuel lines.  I always blow out new hoses when I make them up but I may have missed one so this is a simple extra step.  Once I had a couple gallons in the jug I hoke the fuel rail back up and pressurized the system.  Zero leaks.  I shouldn't be surprised but I really was.  It easy to miss tightening a fitting, but it was all good.

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Damn man. Very nice. I think that's where I need to focus next. I got probably 20 feet of fuel line running around. I need to simplify it. I truly love your write ups. Thanks for taking the time. 

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Posted (edited)

Looking at my 33 spline 934 CV's I needed just two stars replaced, everything else was fine.  I had one new 33 spline star on the shelf but I also had a set of 35 spline axles and stars I bought a few years ago and never used.  Time for another upgrade.

 

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Haven't looked at these axles since I bought them from the COPS Racing Team a few years ago.  I got a mismatch set but I can make them work.

 

 

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I assembled them 'dry' so I can measure the plunge.  That is why the coilover shock is not on the car.

 

 

 

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Now they match a little better, even if one is gun drilled and one isn't.

 

 

 

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Re-grooved for the spiral clip.

 

 

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I had to file the splines to get the CV to slide on easily.

 

EDIT to add- I cut down the trans side because it doesn't plunge as much as the hub side so that side can have shorter splines.  Some manufacturers even make axles this way.  That's also why I re-grooved it for the spiral clip.  If I was cutting down the hub side I wouldn't have re-grooved it.  The hub side spiral clip is useless and I don't put them on my car.  If I loose a limit strap that little piece of metal isn't going to keep my rear arm from over extending and yanking the axle out.  Also, the axle cannot go into the trans, so the spiral clip isn't helping there either.

 

The Class 1 car lost the trans side spiral clip and the axle tried to beat its way out through the hub cap...

SCH-I535476.JPG

 

 

 

Edited by L.R.S.

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I didn't take very many pics of the axle install.

 

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I install the CV's on the axles and then grease them.  It's 6 of one and a half dozen of the other.  Then I fill the trans side CV flange with BelRay.

 

 

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My car is a PIA and the CV's and axles can't be installed to remove or install the coilover shock.  The car has a lot of travel and was designed this way.  I also have to disconnect the sway bar to get the arm low enough to install the coilover.  

 

 

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Both sides are installed, leather outer boot is safety wired to the arm and the caliper bolts are safety wired.

Check this off the list.

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this is a thread chaser kit, SAE and metric,  they clean and straighten but do not cut any material.  I use these daily

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Where did you get those John?

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like the snap on or Mac guys that come to the shop, invaluable.  any time a bolt seems to go into a hole tight, simply run these guys through there with some cutting oil and its like magic, and generally not a chip anywhere to be found. 

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