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aceisback

Fresh water tank repair 2.0

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All of the plastic welding type options were covered in another thread so I didn't want to clutter it with my questions.

My fresh tank is leaking badly and the crack is down low so filling up in Salton City on Friday morning with 100 gallons then mid day on Saturday in the dunes being down to 20 or so gallons REALLY sucks. 

Former owner had put some what looks like two part epoxy on it to no avail. I took the drill with a wire wheel and cleaned all of that off and roughed up a large area around it and then applied JB Weld water weld to it. Haven't filled it or used it since but I think with as hard/brittle as that sets up that it may not work because of the plastic tank flexing. I did use this same stuff on a much smaller leak on my old hauler with success. Crack was in an area that didn't move much.

So my question is: eternabond is pretty flexible and is made to keep water out, so would it also not keep water in? And this stuff I see on TV called flex seal tape, has anyone tried it???

My tank has a big hole in the center, think donut, and the crack is in an inside corner, not an outside edge that would be easy to get to. Hence me thinking if the eternabond would work then this would be my preferred option. I live nowhere near the Inland Empire or any major city so taking to the places mentioned in the other thread is not an option. 

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flex seal....eternabond…….bituthene. I think that would work. Shit sticks and don't break, rip or come off.

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eternobond works good enough.  I slap a new piece on twice a year while its leaking. It makes a bad leak to a slow drip. been using it for 3 years now.

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The sheet membranes work great for keeping water out but holding water over a long period might be a issue as glues tend to re emulsify after a while being exposed to moisture.

I would address the crack by drilling a very small hole at the end of it to stop the growth of it. Then prep the area and use the the jb weld for plastic, while wet re-enforce it with some Fiberglas or nylon tape to bridge the crack, do this a couple times going out further each time. Then apply the sheet membrane. May seem like over kill but might as well throw everything you got at it so hopefully you wont have to do it again.

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The permatex plastic tank repair has a mesh that you put in the epoxy. I had a big crack down the side of my fresh tank in the enclosed and it has held up great

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2 minutes ago, punkur67 said:

The permatex plastic tank repair has a mesh that you put in the epoxy. I had a big crack down the side of my fresh tank in the enclosed and it has held up great

Perfect, re-enforcing the crack is key to the repair.

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None of what anyone is saying will work for a permanent fix.  Think wax, like a candle.  That's what you are trying to stick to.  If you scuff it up enough,  you might be able to get a mechanical bond, but only temporarily until the heat or water pressure flex's the tank enough to pop it loose.  It really needs to be welded to correctly repair it.   When, you finally do decide to repair it correctly,  whoever does the repair is going to charge extra to get all the crap you tried to stick to it off. 

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1 hour ago, MGM/FRP said:

None of what anyone is saying will work for a permanent fix.  Think wax, like a candle.  That's what you are trying to stick to.  If you scuff it up enough,  you might be able to get a mechanical bond, but only temporarily until the heat or water pressure flex's the tank enough to pop it loose.  It really needs to be welded to correctly repair it.   When, you finally do decide to repair it correctly,  whoever does the repair is going to charge extra to get all the crap you tried to stick to it off. 

I will be going thru this soon. Tried every trick and gimmick to no avail. Can they weld it in place?  It is on the fresh water dump valve.

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has anyone tried windshield adhesive    stuff is real sticky  

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18 hours ago, ehall said:

I will be going thru this soon. Tried every trick and gimmick to no avail. Can they weld it in place?  It is on the fresh water dump valve.

Sometimes it can be done in place, but from my experience,  it's better to remove the tank.  The welder has to be able to get 360 deg. Around the repair.  The welder I use has a wand that is about a foot long with a airline hose attached.  Clearance is most important to get a good solid penetration for the weld.

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20 hours ago, MGM/FRP said:

When, you finally do decide to repair it correctly,  whoever does the repair is going to charge extra to get all the crap you tried to stick to it off. 

Nah, pretty sure that I stated that I had taken a wire wheel and a drill and cleaned off the previous two attempts that the prior owner had attempted. Even scuffed up a large amount of the surrounding area for better adhesion of whatever I decide to throw at it. Surely I would also do that again if my attempt at a repair fails and I have to hand it off to someone else. I make every attempt to treat others as I wish to be treated.

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20 hours ago, MGM/FRP said:

None of what anyone is saying will work for a permanent fix.  Think wax, like a candle.  That's what you are trying to stick to.  If you scuff it up enough,  you might be able to get a mechanical bond, but only temporarily until the heat or water pressure flex's the tank enough to pop it loose.  It really needs to be welded to correctly repair it.   When, you finally do decide to repair it correctly,  whoever does the repair is going to charge extra to get all the crap you tried to stick to it off. 

There's always that one guy that has to be the expert!...…..

 

Oh wait.   Nevermind….

 

Do it right, do it once.

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mgm fixed my water tank..   this is his line of busniess.. worth every penny on doing it correctly..   

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22 hours ago, MGM/FRP said:

None of what anyone is saying will work for a permanent fix.  Think wax, like a candle.  That's what you are trying to stick to.  If you scuff it up enough,  you might be able to get a mechanical bond, but only temporarily until the heat or water pressure flex's the tank enough to pop it loose.  It really needs to be welded to correctly repair it.   When, you finally do decide to repair it correctly,  whoever does the repair is going to charge extra to get all the crap you tried to stick to it off. 

Haha you sound like me. Bring me something with jbweld and i will tell you to eff off, or charge you 3 hrs labor to remove. Do it right and do it once

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55 minutes ago, adam909 said:

mgm fixed my water tank..   this is his line of busniess.. worth every penny on doing it correctly..   

X-2 Scott will set you up the first time!!! Just drop your tank!..  

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23 hours ago, aceisback said:

Nah, pretty sure that I stated that I had taken a wire wheel and a drill and cleaned off the previous two attempts that the prior owner had attempted. Even scuffed up a large amount of the surrounding area for better adhesion of whatever I decide to throw at it. Surely I would also do that again if my attempt at a repair fails and I have to hand it off to someone else. I make every attempt to treat others as I wish to be treated.

Sorry, If I came off sounding arrogant, that was not my intention.  This is something that I "literally" see every day and have been doing these types of repairs for over 30 years.  We repaired 4 rv water tanks last week, and average 1 to 6 a week.  We repair for most of the local rv centers that are willing to make the drive. 

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I tried every gunkified crap I could get my hands on. Soon as I towed the trailer and the tank flexed or moved water started to drip. 
Finally took it to MGM/FRP ...which I should have done in the first place. 

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Do you have a picture to share with the class?  I welded my whole tank that split in half in place.  Not a drop once I was done.

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