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Jonesin'

Brake hose info (pics)

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 OK guys, I apologize in advance for so many questions! I have a few questions, I am  wanting to make an order for my brake lines. Are these -3AN or #4? They look really similar on the Summit website. Also, can I mount a dual M/C on this CNC setup so I don’t have to modify too much?  I am also looking for the name of the clamps that are holding the lines. I need quite a few of them because I am running brakes on the front and the rear 

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74A97A43-BE2B-44CC-99AC-40731FB6B978.jpeg

C7EEF26A-EEA3-41B5-B810-C90A39885D0C.jpeg

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This should get you your answer about size.

https://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/AN-Reference-Chart.html

 

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Can't really modify that pedal setup or else your clutch reservoir will be outside of the body panel. U can run the 4 corner brakes  in your pics with one tall ressi,  like u have, but you will want a 4 lb residual valve in line for your rear brakes. Wire clips or cabling clamps are what u want to attach the lines to the chassis.

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2 hours ago, 2turbofords said:

Can't really modify that pedal setup or else your clutch reservoir will be outside of the body panel. U can run the 4 corner brakes  in your pics with one tall ressi,  like u have, but you will want a 4 lb residual valve in line for your rear brakes. Wire clips or cabling clamps are what u want to attach the lines to the chassis.

I thought I need a dual m/c for my front and rear brakes

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20 minutes ago, Jonesin' said:

I thought I need a dual m/c for my front and rear brakes

I have seen lots of cars running  single master with all 4 wheels having brakes, it just isn't the BEST way to do it, but it will work.  

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I was curious if my car was light enough for a single M/C...

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25 minutes ago, Jonesin' said:

I was curious if my car was light enough for a single M/C...

If you run AN they are -3.  Be careful not to mix -3 with standard brake line fittings you can buy at Napa or autozone.  Standard brake lines are 45* and -3 are 37*.  The WILL thread together and sometime will works but will eventually develop leaks.  If you use AN you should replace all fittings with -3 AN if they have standard fittings on them.  You can get away with a single MC with 4 wheel brakes.  My last car had it and it worked fine...it just requires a large piston MC and will have a long pedal throw.  You won't be able to run bigger than a 2 piston caliper on front or rear.  The best way to go is a dual MC setup front/rear with a bias bar.  The bolt pattern should be the same for the pedal assembly but you'll need an additional clutch set up with another MC.

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I think these are the clamps you were looking for:

1" tubing: https://www.mooreparts.com/latest-rage-611112c-1-00-chrome-aluminum-3-16-brake-line-clamp-for-1-tubing/

1.5" tubing https://www.mooreparts.com/latest-rage-611112-1-5-chrome-aluminum-3-16-brake-line-clamp-for-1-1-2-tube/

What size calipers do you have front/rear?  If they are all two piston and you have a 3/4" or larger MC I'd bleed them and see how they work.  If they are too soft or have too long of a pedal travel you may need a larger MC or upgrade to the dual setup.  The theory behind having dual MC's so if you loose pressure on the front or rear that you still have brakes is false...I lost my rear due to a large amount of air in the turning brake braking loose and the front didn't work either.  The bias bar just swings so far to the other side that it will run out of travel before it engages the front MC enough to stop the car.  So I essentially had no brakes.  I think the real reason for having dual MC's is so you can run bigger brakes.   I have 6 piston rears and 4 piston fronts so there's no way a single MC can push enough fluid to move the pads.

Edited by jwest2sh

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12 minutes ago, jwest2sh said:

I think these are the clamps you were looking for:

1" tubing: https://www.mooreparts.com/latest-rage-611112c-1-00-chrome-aluminum-3-16-brake-line-clamp-for-1-tubing/

1.5" tubing https://www.mooreparts.com/latest-rage-611112-1-5-chrome-aluminum-3-16-brake-line-clamp-for-1-1-2-tube/

What size calipers do you have front/rear?  If they are all two piston and you have a 3/4" or larger MC I'd bleed them and see how they work.  If they are too soft or have too long of a pedal travel you may need a larger MC or upgrade to the dual setup.  The theory behind having dual MC's so if you loose pressure on the front or rear that you still have brakes if false...I lost my rear due to a large amount of air in the turning brake braking loose and the front didn't work either.  The bias bar just swings so far to the other side that it will run out of travel before it engages the front MC enough to stop the car.  So I essentially had no brakes.  I think the real reason for having dual MC's is so you can run bigger brakes.   I have 6 piston rears and 4 piston fronts so there's no way a single MC can push enough fluid to move the pads.

My front are 4 piston Wilwood and the rear are CNC 2 piston. I’m going to go with the dual M/C just to be safe. Do these fittings look like they are -3AN? I’m needing 1.5” and 1.25”

Edited by Jonesin'

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4 minutes ago, Jonesin' said:

My front are 4 piston Wilwood and the rear are CNC 2 piston. I’m going to go with the dual M/C just to be safe. Do these fittings look like they are -3AN? 

Good choice.  Ya...they look like -3 to me.  The blue AN blukhead fittings are for sure -3 and more than likely so are the braided lines.   Just double check the 90* fittings that come out of the MC's and calipers.  I've found them mix matched on other cars I've worked on before.  You should be able to tell by looking at them and comparing the angles.

 

Just a thought...if possible you might consider putting the 4 piston in the rear.  Buggies are different than cars.  All the weight is in the back and you want the rear to lock up first so you can still steer.

Edited by jwest2sh

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Ok sweet

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I forget...is this car going to be street legal?  If so....keep the 4 piston in the front.

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3 minutes ago, jwest2sh said:

 

Just a thought...if possible you might consider putting the 4 piston in the rear.  Buggies are different than cars.  All the weight is in the back and you want the rear to lock up first so you can still steer.

Can’t do that. The 4 piston are hooked to my 2” Hollows in the front 

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4 minutes ago, Jonesin' said:

Can’t do that. The 4 piston are hooked to my 2” Hollows in the front 

Gotcha...you'll be able to adjust it somewhat with the bias bar on the dual MC's.  

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Good deal

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The dual m/c set up I’m looking at shows DOT 3 fluid only. Will that be ok?

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Yes, just use one brand of fluid and try to flush all old fluid out while your at it.

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3 minutes ago, 2turbofords said:

Yes, just use one brand of fluid and try to flush all old fluid out while your at it.

Sounds good! I’ll get a quart and flush out the old when all the lines are off

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If you put the whole system back together and power bleed them you’ll be fine.  If you don’t have access to a power bleeder just bleed them until the fluid is clean, then a little more. 

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5 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

If you put the whole system back together and power bleed them you’ll be fine.  If you don’t have access to a power bleeder just bleed them until the fluid is clean, then a little more. 

Ok thanks

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