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WaPaWeKkA

1986 Honda 250r Build

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As you know, I picked this bike up in the beginning of January from Ben. He said by no means is this bike perfect but it's the cleanest stock one he's found and that's exactly what I was looking for. Plus, I'd rather buy from somebody on gd.come then play craigslist roulette any day.

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With a 34 year old bike, I wanted to put some rides on it to see what I’m working with and if any issues come up so I put a set of paddles, some Caster 927 at 32 to 1 and ran it hard for two trips. Motor seems to run hard. I ran several passes up Olds to put some stress on it and it didn't fail so I'm pleased it has a strong motor to begin with. I noticed the front brakes are extremely soft. Going to bleed system, put new fluid through it and hope that solves the problem. If not, the caliper pistons may be seized.

Next up, the plastics. The plastics are in decent shape. No major cracks but a ton of micro cracks all over the bike. I’d like to keep the OEM plastics, so I you tubed how to clean up those micro cracks and the best way is wet sanding by starting with a harsh paper and then working your way softer, then finally polishing them. This is going to be extremely time consuming so I’ll do this once the season is over ( I have 1 more trip before my daughter starts softball). I really like the look of the cut front plastics but I wouldn’t dare do that to stock plastics. That would only be if I have to go aftermarket.

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The rear shock needs to be re-built. I’m 250 pounds and bottomed out several times. I’d like to take it to PEP, have them weight me and the bike and rebuild the rear shock. Scrolling through internet forums and talking to people say this is the best way. I’d like to keep the stock swing arm. I mentioned I wanted to keep this as stock looking as possible so I don’t want any extensions, plus the trailer is pretty tight so I don’t want to lengthen anything. I want to buy PEPs shocks for the front end and widen both the front and rear. There are several companies out there including Lone Star, Laeger, alba, etc… that make both axles and a arms so I was thinking +2 is the best idea. Any recommendations on arms? I was going to ask PEP for their opinion too.

Finally, the motor. I don’t know what I want to do. With so many companies like CT, LED and so many other builders, I haven’t quite decided. One thing I know is I want it to run on 91 and keep it reliable. I do not want to run race fuel. CT has 310 and 330 kit that runs 91. Just over $2000 including a pipe is a bit pricey and will probably be the last thing I do to it but it’s something to keep in mind.

Anybody got any other mods I should do? Whether it’s engine or suspension related? Something I haven’t thought of yet? I’ll post updates and pics as I go along. I have between our last trip the last weekend in February and Oregon in July to try and knock a few things out on the bike so we will see.

 

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I liked v force reeds on my 2 strokes

Edited by jtmoney714

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https://www.eddie-sanders-racing.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=310-KIT-9

esr built me a 265 high compression engine with oring head that would smash ct330s back in the early 2000s

Check your brake lines. The soft brakes may be from 34 year old lines. Duncan sells a really high quality steel brade kit. 

Case saver and chain guide would be my first mods. (We used to weld a mount on the swing arm so we could run cr250 chain guides)

A set of of budget lonestar arms and a axle would be nice. The 86 swing arm is already 1” longer than 88/89. Its pretty tough. If you want to go longer lonestar can help there too, though i would do a bearing carrier first (after 34 its shot or will be soon). The stock steering stem bushings arent the best either. 

Dont get me started dood, 250r was the original dune rod. I’d want it all

Edited by sausage450r

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If your not trying to be the fastest guy on the hill I wouldn't do the big bore kits. Instead I would do some port work to beef up the bottom end even more than it already is.  Let's face fact's this bike will spend 90% of it's life chasing small children thru the dunes at slower speeds. The ability to make this thing jump off the line and climb up a steep soft dune is going to happen more than 5th gear wide open.  My buddy had a pump gas bike that was the fastest thing I ever rode and it had a stock bore and crank it was all in the port work.

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My first duner was an '86 250R. 

Loved it.

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The best thing I did to my '86 250r hybrid chassis was having PEP make front and rear shocks for the bike geometry and my weight (210). Made it ride like a Cadillac.

 

"HJ"     :ex:     :cheers:

 

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I sure am glad nothing major popped up. I know I sold the bike as a relative unknown but would have felt horrible if something major happened.

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86 250R that’s been in the family since new. I’ve always ran stock bores with mild ports, FMF high Rev pipe. 2 seasons ago I decided to go for the CT 330 kit. I wanted pump gas, reliable with low end power for slow duning with the kiddos. I couldn’t be happier with this kit. Haven’t had a single issue, loads of torque. Huge improvement over stock and my bike was built on a Wednesday so it’s always been quick haha.  The friends I’ve let ride it say it’s more fun than there 450s.  I run Axis shocks with Lone Star DC-4 Arms, super comfortable ride. 

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These guys came riding into the valley at the wall. (Not China Wall but the Wall) 

It was a cool sight to see seven or eight of them all in one place and dunning. 

 

 

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Great stuff....

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Doing a few things with the bike. Work has actually increased for me as I’m “essential” but the family is staying home on my off days so I’ve had some time to work. First up, I took the plastics off the bike and removed the stock stickers. These suckers have been on since 1986 and were a complete bitch to take off. Even with an adhesive remover, it took a couple fingernails with it. You can see in the pics just how bad the discoloring is between what was exposed and what was under the stickers. 
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I removed the seat and will start wet sanding this weekend. It’s going to take forever by the looks of the video but in quarantine (besides work), I’ve got nothing but free time. 

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The stock exhaust had to go. BDT made me one of their Wurks exhausts. I’m a fan of helping small businesses and wasn’t just looking for the “cookie cutter” exhaust you can buy from FMF, Pro Circuit or even CT. This exhaust will run from OEM to 310.

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While at BDT, I picked Carlos’ brain about what I want to do with this motor. He asked how much money I want to spend. For the budget conscious me, he said he likes the OEM cylinders and suggests a port job on the original cylinder to see how I like it. If I did that, eliminate the air box and get rid of the stock carb (go to a PWK instead of the OEM PJ), it may run how I want it to for my style of riding. 

OR

He said I could spend the money on a 330. He says it’s a lot more money because the bottom end will need to be done too but he says the power difference will be night and day and it’ll rip.

Ive got some time to think it over obviously. I’m going to run it stock w/ the pipe for our Oregon trip and then I will decide. Or my wife will decide for me! Haha. 
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THAT is such a great bike!!!! 

 

I am watching this!!!

 

:poule:

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Take it from someone who is big into the 250rs, DO NOT have Carlos build a motor for you. Guy is a walking scam. 

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20 minutes ago, sdyme1995 said:

Take it from someone who is big into the 250rs, DO NOT have Carlos build a motor for you. Guy is a walking scam. 

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Clean bike!! I dig the stock color wheels. 

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Cool build.

You'd get hazed on Facebooks for mentioning BDT or Carlos. 

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15 minutes ago, Morgan said:

Cool build.

You'd get hazed on Facebooks for mentioning BDT or Carlos. 

Oh trust me. I know. I’m just a lurker on Facebook. Not much posting. 

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Posted (edited)

I agree with stock cylinder. I ran a high compression 265cc for years and would stomp 330s in sanctioned races and at the hills. 

Edited by sausage450r

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You planning on doing anything with the suspension? My wife has a 250r she grew up riding and wants me to do a rebuild on it. I’ve already talked with Leonard at Duncan about some help on it. 

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5 hours ago, B0NES said:

You planning on doing anything with the suspension? My wife has a 250r she grew up riding and wants me to do a rebuild on it. I’ve already talked with Leonard at Duncan about some help on it. 

Yes. Most likely going +2+1 in the front with New PEP shocks and then have PEP rebuild the stock rear shock my my weight and riding style. Maybe a wider rear axle as well. 

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Upgrade the carb, intake, exhaust, port work, and reeds. Super reliable and damn snappy! Way cheaper than big bore kits. Honestly, with the suspension dialed and mild motor work, this quad will smash a ton of newer bikes out there. I brought my 85’ 250r wheeler out last trip. It has been sitting in the garage since 2010! My son raced a few Yamaha 450 quads and beat them all up the hill and at the drags. Stock carb, aftermarket pipe and reeds, along with a stock air box filter replacement and jetting. Oh and stock knobbies too! The 450’s he raced were pipe and air cleaner set ups. The Honda’s rip if set up right.

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22 hours ago, B0NES said:

You planning on doing anything with the suspension? My wife has a 250r she grew up riding and wants me to do a rebuild on it. I’ve already talked with Leonard at Duncan about some help on it. 

We also can rebuild your rear ,. We have some already done on the shelf, as well as several core shocks to do a build on.. 1 of the ebay shocks

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22 minutes ago, SCHMIDTY said:

We also can rebuild your rear ,. We have some already done on the shelf, as well as several core shocks to do a build on.. 1 of the ebay shocks

Yep that’s definitely something I want to do. 

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1 hour ago, SCHMIDTY said:

We also can rebuild your rear ,. We have some already done on the shelf, as well as several core shocks to do a build on.. 1 of the ebay shocks

How much to rebuild if I was to send it to you?

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1 hour ago, WaPaWeKkA said:

How much to rebuild if I was to send it to you?

We offer a complete rebuild service for the OEM 250r rear shocks The service includes: complete disassembly, clean & lube of all clickers, replacement of oil and dust seal, new seal-head o-ring, new shaft bushing, new nitrogen schrader valve core, Fresh Lucas synthetic shock oil, & nitrogen recharge. We also exchange the lower spring retainer clip,ring and bottom-out-bumper cup for ones that are freshly powdercoated metallic silver. This rebuild service is $235  (+ sales tax on parts if located in Ca.), + return shipping . Any additional worn, or damaged items such as: pitted or scarred shock shafts, worn nitrogen bladders, seized or stripped clicker assemblies, cracked or leaking reservoir hoses, etc. that would need to be replaced for correct operation of the shock as well as associated additional labor (if applicable) for said repairs would be in addition to the rebuild price.   We also offer the same rebuild package in conjunction with our 3 stage progressive re-valve coupled with piston mods, along with a new spring; set up for your weight, swing-arm length , and riding style for $425 (+ sales tax on parts if located in Ca.) +  return shipping. With that package, you will get aftermarket-like performance, for less than 1/2 the price.

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