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WaPaWeKkA

1986 Honda 250r Build

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The plastics haven't been going the way I want them to. It took me about 3-4 hours to do a small section and it doesn't even look that great. I'll try to post pics when I get home. The microcracks require a harsh grade sandpaper. Most videos I saw start using 320 grit and that didn't come close. So I had to go down to 120 for the cracks. I don't even have much motivation to complete them since I think I'm going to go aftermarket race cut fenders but I'd like a set of minty OEM plastics on the shelves too.

Andrew

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9 minutes ago, WaPaWeKkA said:

The plastics haven't been going the way I want them to. It took me about 3-4 hours to do a small section and it doesn't even look that great. I'll try to post pics when I get home. The microcracks require a harsh grade sandpaper. Most videos I saw start using 320 grit and that didn't come close. So I had to go down to 120 for the cracks. I don't even have much motivation to complete them since I think I'm going to go aftermarket race cut fenders but I'd like a set of minty OEM plastics on the shelves too.

Andrew

sell them and buy BLUE aftermarket ones!!! (blue Hondas are the best looking bikes on the planet!)

My 2 cents

:poule:

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Defiantly  the  best balanced quad, always imitated but never duplicated. When I got my 89 I got with Mark  Leager and up this a-arms and swing arm on my bike along  with works shocks  Excalibur  +2 axle, hubs,  Anti Vibe steering stem,  along with a  Port and Polish from Duncan Racing , Paul Turner  mid rang pipe, cool head, 2 stage reeds, carb work etc. .   Was a great dune machine.  Did a complete frame up rebuild plus a bunch of other mods  for my wife when I got my first banshee.

IMG_25151.jpg

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Posted (edited)

The collection of parts continues. I’m just buying stuff as I remember and money permits. Picked up an air box elimination kit. 

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As far as the engine goes, I’ve been emailing back and forth with Eddie at ESR. He suggests I run a 310 kit with power valve on race fuel w/ some porting. He thinks that is the best set up for what I plan on doing. His engines are top notch but leave a little out in the porting territory. I may send it out for additional porting. 
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I’ve kicked the idea of keeping keeping it OEM looking but I can’t decide what color combo I want to run. Red/black looks killer but they’re 100 of them out there. A dark blue and black would be bitchen. Like Loko ATC did. I don’t really know. Any suggestions? Here is a pic of Loko’s and a random black/red one I found on Facebook. 
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Edited by WaPaWeKkA

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Did a little more work today before it was time to hang out with the family. Removed the tank, airbox, snorkel and stock PJ carb. Going to be running no airbox so no need for snorkel and will be running the better PWK carb. While removing the chain guard, I noticed only 1 bolt was in the guard. Come to find out, the part of the case broke that holds the bottom bolt. It doesn't appear to be anything major but I'm not sure how well my case saver will fit. We will see. On a side note, I have alerts on my phone for anything 250r related on OfferUp. A PWK popped up this morning and I messaged the guy with a couple questions. He messaged back immediately and then  I messaged that I'd take it, can I pick it up today or I can paypal and pick it up later. No response. 5 hours later, I message him asking if he was still there and he messaged back that it already sold. WTF? I messaged him literally 2 minutes after it posted. 

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Posted (edited)

Looks like the bolt is just broke off in the hole. If so, weld a nut to the bolt. While it’s still hot, put a wrench on the nut and back the bolt out.

Edited by big_daddy_jp

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Finally decided on the motor. After several dozen e-mails back and forth between Arlan at LED, Eddie at ESR and myself, their knowledge outweighs mine. They both suggested a 350 kit. Arlan is going to build me a ESR 350 CEO top end with his custom porting. He's also going to machine the cases for me to fit the larger bore. I'm going to get the motor taken out and sent off to LED. I'm hoping he can have it done by our Oregon trip in July.

I have to call Carlos at BDT. That pipe I bought is for a 250 to 310 bike. I'm going bigger so I'll have to ask him if it is compatible. If not I will need to sell and buy a LED or ESR pipe which would result in some money loss.

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Posted (edited)

You won't be disappointed with Arlan. Super good dude to work with. He built my 310. I recommend using his pipe, I did with mine, no regrets whatsoever, runs like a bat outta hell. 

Edit to add, I also got my carb from Arlan. Came jetted for me. I told him where the bike runs, and he already knew the motor, so it was almost spot on right outta the box. Bike starts on 1 kick, and actually idles! You can walk away and it stays running.

Edited by The looney duner

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As far as color, I went the monochromatic look....

IMG_20190415_132108986.jpg

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Parts are starting to slowly trickle in. Got my V force reeds today and coming in soon will be my new carb, asv levers, grips, parking brake block off plate, radiator shrouds, etc...

I was taking the top end off today and I think a dowel pin might be seized up. I worked on it for about an hour before I gave up. I hit it with a s load of PB Blaster and will try again tomorrow. I couldnt find my rubber mallet (I think it’s in the trailer)  but I was taking some good whacks with a 2x4 and hammer. 
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Did a little bit today before I said eff it cause the garage was too hot. 
 

Installed the parking brake block off plate and pulled the cable out. Finally got the stubborn top end off after some good whacks with a rubber mallet. Cylinder and piston were in great shape. I don’t think this bike was ridden very much. Lots of OEM parts with little wear. 
 

Pulled the entire motor to take to the builder. I went back and forth 100 times on what I was going to do with the engine. Found a 310 pro x cylinder on a forum and am going to run that for a while. See how I like it. 
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More parts came in today. Motion pro twist throttle and cable, grips, PWK carb and the rear plastic. No idea why only the rear showed up when I ordered both front and rear from the same company. 
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At some point I gotta start putting the bike together. All I’ve done is take it apart!! 
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Talking to Arlen is the worst thing you could have done for your bank account. He takes credit cards too by the way. ;) I went the exact same way you've done and ended up at Arlens looking at a 5K motor before I had to reign myself in. Sticking with the stock cylinder is the best bang for the buck but if you know you'll end up with Arlen at some point............... Front and back plastics came from different warehouses probably. That sucks about the lower case saver hole. If you have the bottom end worked on, maybe they can extract the broken piece and build that boss up again. 

 

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Best and most reliable mods to an 86 or 87 are as follows. You will get an out 36hp and torque. Choosing your pipe can help in that area, I suggest a mid or mid-high pipe for dune riding. Now for the mods:

1. replace reeds with 1989 CR250 reeds.
2. Replace crank bearings with 1989 car 250 bearings ( all factory R&D goes to motor cross so use these). 
3. replace the crank and piston an connecting rod with 88/89 set. Longer stroke, shorter piston.

4. Taper bore your carb, significantly increases response (do not expand the inner diameter, just from the center outwards. Both sides.

5. Drill rivets from stock head gasket (3 pieces) and only use one. Drops head just enough to increase compression, without the need to run beyond 91 pump fuel.
6. use a dremel and just clean up the porting. Smoothie out, get rid of burrs, etc., but don’t get into the real metal.

7. Have the rear shock re-vavled.  It’s a great shock, just needs some tuning for the dunes. 
8. FmF fatty midrange pipe and a good breathing filter.  Open up some holes in the air box lid, but not directly over the filter, drill  slightly  off to the side.

9. Once you have this reliable power, you will need to replace the crank seal inside the cover.  I believe the magneto side. You will see dome oil drips in there  every year or two.  Just don’t press in to far when replacing.

10. Jet properly. Go one size rich on the main and the top end will last many years.
 

11. Add a desert seat foam and cover.  Puts you in a good riding position for dining and absorbs some of the ruts.

12. Final  suggestion is to switch  between forged and sand cast pistons each bore.  They expand so different that you only half bore for the sand cast.

Enjoy it! 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 4/3/2020 at 8:31 PM, sausage450r said:

I agree with stock cylinder. I ran a high compression 265cc for years and would stomp 330s in sanctioned races and at the hills. 

I did the same thing with my old Orange '86, it was awesome :lol: 

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On 4/25/2020 at 8:46 PM, WaPaWeKkA said:

Did a little bit today before I said eff it cause the garage was too hot. 
 

Installed the parking brake block off plate and pulled the cable out. Finally got the stubborn top end off after some good whacks with a rubber mallet. Cylinder and piston were in great shape. I don’t think this bike was ridden very much. Lots of OEM parts with little wear. 
 

Pulled the entire motor to take to the builder. I went back and forth 100 times on what I was going to do with the engine. Found a 310 pro x cylinder on a forum and am going to run that for a while. See how I like it. 
9BBABD5F-E9FD-4673-A9A2-A34099BDE81E.thumb.jpeg.6ab098da50d4762e4b2be57251efb36d.jpegAD3EA30A-EBDD-4C6A-AF9E-E8C97536D799.thumb.jpeg.fc0ba094058dadf011345dbf8d1bd674.jpeg

More parts came in today. Motion pro twist throttle and cable, grips, PWK carb and the rear plastic. No idea why only the rear showed up when I ordered both front and rear from the same company. 
287715CB-08CF-4088-BC75-15F159548241.thumb.jpeg.ac0e1314cbe4b0eb847f4db912ddc05d.jpeg

At some point I gotta start putting the bike together. All I’ve done is take it apart!! 
0C96A0A6-D026-45EE-97B0-733528DF083C.thumb.jpeg.2c923182b68e1e569c65caa0e012c09f.jpeg

Who did you end up getting the carb from and what size did you go with?

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8 hours ago, HOWIE said:

Who did you end up getting the carb from and what size did you go with?

38PWK Airstryker. I found it in on Facebook market place for $150. Did a rebuild kit and it’s ready to go. 

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Got my seat cover and put it on. It looks real good and seems like it’s good quality. Fourwerx custom made. 
Before:

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After:

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Engine is being built, I’m still waiting on some parts. It’s slow go with shipping with all the madness going on.  Some parts won’t be in until mid May and some even June. 
 

Andrew

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Looking good man...

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Damn you I am wanting to freshen up the one my son has now. I can't justify it but you are so making me want to do it lol. Keep the updates coming it is turning out to be a nice ride.

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Slow going lately. Still waiting on the engine to come back to start assembling everything. I did get the seat mounted to the rear plastics. Maier has been in the game for a very long time yet you have to drill holes in a brand new $300 fender to mount the rod for stability. Oh well, it’s mounted now. I think it’s gonna look sweet with the graphics kit on it. 
 

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Posted (edited)

Wanted to switch out the rear sprocket today for a brand new steel one. The one on their is the original and is worn. Took the wheel nuts off and the damn wheel wouldn't come off. Yanked pretty hard and nothing. Upon further review, my stupid ass put on the nuts with the cone portion facing in and it dug into the aluminum of the ITP rim and widened it. I beat the crap out of it for a couple of hours and ended up pulling the castle nut and hub off the axle. Was able to beat the studs free from the hub to get them out of the wheel. With the help of my brother in law ( I don't have a tap and die set), we cleaned up the threads and good to go. All 4 wheels were seized up and took hours to get off. Didn't even change the damn sprocket. Ordered some flange bolts and new cotter pins and will be back in business.

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The wheels are trashed but that's ok. I only need to run them 1 more season and I'm buying the black Douglas A5 wheels when I finish the suspension/swing arm after next season. I've got everything needed to put this thing back together. Just waiting for the engine and those ASV levers I ordered over a month ago. It looks like our Oregon Dunes trip is going to happen after all with everything starting to open up again.

Andrew

Edited by WaPaWeKkA

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Weld em, face em, buff em, no one will ever know

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On 4/5/2020 at 11:35 AM, SCHMIDTY said:

We offer a complete rebuild service for the OEM 250r rear shocks The service includes: complete disassembly, clean & lube of all clickers, replacement of oil and dust seal, new seal-head o-ring, new shaft bushing, new nitrogen schrader valve core, Fresh Lucas synthetic shock oil, & nitrogen recharge. We also exchange the lower spring retainer clip,ring and bottom-out-bumper cup for ones that are freshly powdercoated metallic silver. This rebuild service is $235  (+ sales tax on parts if located in Ca.), + return shipping . Any additional worn, or damaged items such as: pitted or scarred shock shafts, worn nitrogen bladders, seized or stripped clicker assemblies, cracked or leaking reservoir hoses, etc. that would need to be replaced for correct operation of the shock as well as associated additional labor (if applicable) for said repairs would be in addition to the rebuild price.   We also offer the same rebuild package in conjunction with our 3 stage progressive re-valve coupled with piston mods, along with a new spring; set up for your weight, swing-arm length , and riding style for $425 (+ sales tax on parts if located in Ca.) +  return shipping. With that package, you will get aftermarket-like performance, for less than 1/2 the price.

Great price on both rebuilds. I am always looking for a 88-89 project. Haven't found one at the right price yet.

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I put the graphics on today. The red is a tad lighter then the frame and seat but it’ll do. 
 

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Oh man that color combo really worked out nice....

You gonna PC the frame or give it a REALLY good scrub? Now is the time....

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