Jump to content
jwest2sh

Adjusting the stops on a R&P w/ Charlyln booster

Recommended Posts

My buddy has a Gear One rack with a Charlyn booster on his car.  When he turns all the way to the stops the belt squeels and it's putting a ton of pressure on all of the hardware.  He was out last weekend and sheered all the bolts off the rack.  Is there a way to adjust the stops on either the Charlyn or the rack?  I have a Howe ram on mine and I was able to have the internal stops adjusted so it won't press on the external stops or heims.  Just wondering if there's a way to do that with the gear one rack?

 

thanks,

~jw

IMG_3227[1].JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you take the top of the box off you can see that a non widespread box has a big disadvantage, 

the Latest rage large wide spread box is about twice as strong as the gear one and only about $400,  if he wanted you can even mount the howe ram on top, it is copied that close, and the tie rod area would have more to hold onto, 

I would change the box so it is fixed for good, if you need one contact us,  it looks like a howe 2.5 lower 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, J Alper said:

if you take the top of the box off you can see that a non widespread box has a big disadvantage, 

the Latest rage large wide spread box is about twice as strong as the gear one and only about $400,  if he wanted you can even mount the howe ram on top, it is copied that close, and the tie rod area would have more to hold onto, 

I would change the box so it is fixed for good, if you need one contact us,  it looks like a howe 2.5 lower 

Thanks J.  I'll check out the latest rage stuff.  I looked on your site and saw the RBP rack.  Is that any good?  His rack didn't really get damaged other than the bolt holes.  The bolts sheered off because there are no stops on the rack and the Charlyn is putting a lot of pressure on them at full lock.  Is there a way to adjust the stops?

~jw

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

stronger rack and mount is all you can do with a charlynn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, jwest2sh said:

Thanks J.  I'll check out the latest rage stuff.  I looked on your site and saw the RBP rack.  Is that any good?  His rack didn't really get damaged other than the bolt holes.  The bolts sheered off because there are no stops on the rack and the Charlyn is putting a lot of pressure on them at full lock.  Is there a way to adjust the stops?

~jw

if they look the same they work the same, so the RBP will be the same as what you have, you can do the Tatum Widespread No ram $1000,  or the Howe Widespread No ram $1200 or the Latest Rage widespread No ram $400  the latest rage is beaffy as a import rack it is still twice the size of a standard rack and will use Howe parts 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
On 4/7/2020 at 10:51 PM, jwest2sh said:

My buddy has a Gear One rack with a Charlyn booster on his car.  When he turns all the way to the stops the belt squeels and it's putting a ton of pressure on all of the hardware.  He was out last weekend and sheered all the bolts off the rack.  Is there a way to adjust the stops on either the Charlyn or the rack?  I have a Howe ram on mine and I was able to have the internal stops adjusted so it won't press on the external stops or heims.  Just wondering if there's a way to do that with the gear one rack?

 

thanks,

~jw

IMG_3227[1].JPG

I am always trying to learn along the way.. I am asking to try to understand what is at play in your post.. I understand the pressure being exerted on the rack by the charlynne and booster.  what I do not understand , is how by "limiting the travel of the rack",  that it will lessen the load exerted on the rack? please explain? or what am I missing?

Edited by SCHMIDTY

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same rack and charlyn on my last car, never had an issue. I'm a little confused why it happened. As far as I know there is no stops in the rack or booster. The only way I can think this could happen is if he holds it cranked all the way over, hard. When I drove mine I could feel where it limited out, and then stop cranking on the wheel. I had that set up for 3 years and a ton of miles, with zero issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, The looney duner said:

I had the same rack and charlyn on my last car, never had an issue. I'm a little confused why it happened. As far as I know there is no stops in the rack or booster. The only way I can think this could happen is if he holds it cranked all the way over, hard. When I drove mine I could feel where it limited out, and then stop cranking on the wheel. I had that set up for 3 years and a ton of miles, with zero issue.

Thanks for the response. That rack and booster has been in the car for a long time also, I’m assuming since it was built.? I prepped it last summer and found a couple of stripped bolts and the holes were rounded out on the rack. Probably from hitting the stops over and over and stressing the hardware and mounts.  the plan was to address that issue this summer anyway. The PS pump was mounted on the Fortin trans which sucked, so I put a new pump on the motor and built all new lines for it. I think the new pump has more pressure and that’s what caused the bolts to sheer off?  I think you are right that there is no stops on them though. I was just hoping there was a trick I didn’t know that would fix it. Seem like it’s just going to keep happening.  probably have to upgrade to the beefier rack like Alper was talking about. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, SCHMIDTY said:

I am always trying to learn along the way.. I am asking to try to understand what is at play in your post.. I understand the pressure being exerted on the rack by the charlynne and booster.  what I do not understand , is how by "limiting the travel of the rack",  that it will lessen the load exerted on the rack? please explain? or what am I missing?

 If the rack can be limited internally, when it’s turned to the stops, all the stress is on the internals of the rack and not the hardware. Right now it turns until the heims max out and transfers all that force to the hardware, spindles and heims and tie rods because the rack still has more travel when the heims bind. 

Edited by jwest2sh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, jwest2sh said:

 If the rack can be limited internally, when it’s turned to the stops, all the stress is on the internals of the rack and not the hardware. Right now it turns until the heims max out and transfers all that force to the hardware, spindles and heims and tie rods because the rack still has more travel when the heims bind. 

Ahh, I didn't know the heims were binding.. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Preview Post

More Links

©2001 GlamisDunes.com.
All rights reserved.

×
×
  • Create New...