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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/12/2017 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Best Vets day ever
  2. 1 point
    Awesome car!!!! Was nice b4 and now it's freaking Awesome!!!
  3. 1 point
    Not calling anyone out here but, how can one tell from just a group of pictures that catastrophic engine damage was the result of assembly failure? I have 30 years under my belt as a tech with GM and I have seen hundreds of engine failures from a variety of reasons. There is no way a person can just look at an engine, and only from looking at it with their eyes, determine the root cause of failure is from something the builder did or did not do correctly. If I had to make an educated guess for this failure, I would have to agree with CBM that it had oil starvation. The big ends of a few of the rods are discolored. Any number of things could have caused that damage. But hey, what do I know I'm just a putz.
  4. 1 point
    Ohhh snap!!! That's a whole different car!! Good job! Enjoy!
  5. 1 point
    sorry to say but looks like engine builder failure, we see this so much, the side bolts will change the bearings clearance up to 2-3-tenths so when doing a ls type motor Plasti-gauge will not give a accurate reading for a race or offroad motor, it is amazing how many motors are put together with the wrong bearing and piston to wall clearance, when a motor is built every thing needs to be checked yes even the lifter bores need to be checked, we carry around $5000 in dial bore gauges for a reason, and when doing cylinder bore hones each style and company requires different hatch and roughness scale for different piston rings, not all pistons are the same, each piston has different wall clearances, and depending on the fuel,nito,nitrous,e85,turno,superchared,iron,aluminumblocks are all different in the clearances, a motor with good chromoly rods and the correct bearings and clearances can hit the rev-limiter all day long while doing for lustrum to a Decade, with no issues it really looks like non of the clearances where correct, I would start with checking the main bores before the bearings go in I like to be with 2 tenth, then we dykem the main and make a push thew with the line hone to see if the bore is straight, have seen some deflection in the LSX and the Iron blocks over time, if the line hone is good with Our Alper Motorsports ported pump and ORINGED we use around .0026 to .0028 only on mains if the shop can not hit that number find another shop can get to .0029 if using the 10355 pump with a O ring, but more volume will equal more oil temp, so the smaller the gear to maintain volume does work better, we have never not once been able to not mix match bearings when using King or Clevite, so double triple check bearing clearances, we have a full shelf of bearing with the same part number but they very from .001-.003 so we have to match sets, do to the smaller size we hold the rod bearing to a standard of .0002, it has took us a couple of hours on some rod manufactures to hold this standard, if doing your own motor it take allot of time and patience and we use about 4 different boring bars, and boring bar setup fixtures and so on, when it comes to the rings unless you have a Goodson or Total seal style ring filers it is best for the machine shop to cut them, just rounding the edge wrong with a file can make the wrong ring gap, the gap really should be perfectly square the Mahle online rings school on youtube really does a great explanation, also if you want to setup your bearing the Clevite also has a online school

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