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acefuture

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acefuture last won the day on April 3 2018

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About acefuture

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  • Location
    Costa Mesa California

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    Sand
  • Your Ride
    Desert Dynamics

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  1. I have a 2x4 with a 27' toy hauler with a full size 4 seat car in it, I can get in and out just fine. For navigating the closures, the best thing is downloading the Avenza Maps app and then downloading the "BLM - Imperial Sand Dunes" Map in the app and it'll show you where you are at all times. It's great for navigating the dunes. Here's a screen shot with a rough highlight of where the fun dunes are in Gordon's. Unfortunately some of the good one's are in the closure, but still a good time! If you are worried about getting stuck, and would like to stay at the Gordon's well campground let me know, I can give you Tomas, the keeper of the grounds number. He's a great guy and very accommodating.
  2. Need to get a check on it tonight. Ran out of time last night. But there is forsure some back angle. Thanks guys Gotchya. The shocks probably aren’t coming off this season for a rebuild but that’ll be something I keep in mind for next summer
  3. Gordon’s is where we called our duning home for a very very long time. My dad and his parents have been going out to the south dunes for ~46 years now so safe to say they know the spot really well. Whoever says the dunes suck down there hasn’t been on a run with the right group IMO. There are some really fun dunes that click very well and flow for awhile. We still split about half of our trips between Gordon’s and Glamis during the season. The dunes in Glamis are bigger and more expansive but there is still plenty of fun to be had in Gordon’s. The map @Rockwood put together is a great way to show how not to get stuck. NEVER GO DOWN THE MIDDLE. That’s where the pits are. Hug the south canal to the right towards 1st base. When you get to the 3rd power pole hook a left towards 2nd base and stay up on top of the “pad”. You can clearly see where it dives off, anything farther in is very soft. Last time we camped there we had 67 people in everything from small toy hauler to diesel pushers with stackers. No one got stuck. But you do have to keep momentum, which is sometimes hard on the rig. In terms of duning. The closures really put a damper on some of the bigger bowls there but there’s still plenty to play in. Download the Avenza Maps app and it’ll show where all the closures are. The best lines tend to run “East to west” and are closure to the west side. The dunes have the tendency to be in ridges more so in Gordon’s that Glamis. Test, or freeway hill is along the south canal and 8 freeway. It’s a fun place for the kids to hang out as well because you can get to the hill by going down in the old canal bank from dune buggy flats. The dunes on the backside or ridge 1 of test hill are an absolute blast but tends to be the first ones that get chopped up on a busy weekend. Patton hill is valley #5 from the freeway. It can only legally be accessed by the dunes. So a long dune run there is a great time. All of the dunes on the backside of Patton are open and some dune all the way up to Glamis from there (I’ve never done it, seems like a trek). We’ll be doing quite a few trips down there this season and staying at the Gordon’s well camp ground which is also a great place to stay. Power and hookups, no dust, walking distance to Duners Diner, an entrance to the dunes and 5 mile drop, and you won’t get stuck. @Reece and I spend a lot of time down there so let us know when you go and maybe we can all hook up for a ride. Have fun! Let me know if you have any more questions. I don’t know a ton about buttercup but know quite a bit about Gordon’s Another thing to add: if you have a group of quads or just sxs the east side of the dunes is like a berm track and is rarely ever chopped up. Makes for a rip of a ride but is a bit tight for buggies. All in all Glamis is better for all around, bigger dunes, more expansive, more “sites” but Gordon’s and the south dunes are an absolute blast and worth going, especially To escape the crowds on a busy weekend.
  4. I would imagine that some cars suspension does not allow the trailing arm to drop low enough to put the axle at an extreme enough angle to cause CV bind. My suspension allows my axle to get to 21 degrees at full droop which could cause bind in the CV, thus needing to be strapped up a bit to ensure the axle doesn’t see such aggressive angles. Please correct me if I’m wrong or if 21 degrees is not enough to cause bind. I need to see if I have any binding spots tomorrow. Didn’t get the chance to while getting a measurement on it tonight.
  5. Just got a measure on the axle. It’s at 21 degrees. Doesn’t seem overkill to me, so an 18” strap should work, which in theory would keep the axle under 21 degrees at full stretch. Thoughts?
  6. Wow bad ass! Now when you post you have a 500+hp LS1 you actually mean it and have proof. Congrats
  7. I do have an adjustable clevis. I did a bad job at explaining it. From bottom eyelet to clevis mount at full droop is 24", with the limit strap on and the clevis all the way bottomed out (meaning full limit) I'm still at 24". So the clevis and the strap are too long, they aren't limiting at all. Here's a photo for reference, sorry for the terrible quality. With the adjustable clevis all the way tightened down, so pulling the strap up, I'm still at 24". So the strap is not actually doing anything. but like @djk_rctruck said I still need to put the cvs on to measure angle before making the purchase. But IIRC when I measured them last summer they were fine. I think like 20 degrees (don't quote me on that)
  8. That’s what I figured as well. It’s a 20” strap so that would mean I’d need to be strapped up at least 1.875” before the strap stretches to full droop. So should I go with an 18” strap?
  9. Well just measured the axle length and limit straps. Cup to cup measured 30” and axle is 29.75” so it’s definitely not too short. But the limit strap was. From eyelet to eyelet at full drop measured 24” without the strap. Then with the limit strap on and with the threads completely bottomed out at complete limiting the eyelets still measured 24”. So the limit strap isn’t doing anything at all. Could be the source of my problem. Gonna put the CVs on tomorrow and check for angle as well
  10. If you're interested in splitting it up I might be interested in the hood and dash.
  11. Let's see some photos of that DD 😎
  12. Yea short whoops. Thanks John, appreciate the offer. I made a make shift one when I went from type 1 to microstubs on my last car that should work. I'll let you know if it doesn't
  13. I've marked them both times I've done CVs but that beings said they are the axels that were on the car when I bought it, so who knows, they could have been switched in the first place. I'll get a measurement on them tonight and then get a proper measurement of what they should be. Very well could be that the passenger side axel is too long. I expected some mild abuse on the 930s but not the amount I'm seeing on the passenger side. The driver side CVs looked brand new after this past season. I'm switching back to Bel Rey/Swepco this season as well.
  14. My car has single clevis straps. I'll put the CVs back on and get angles and post them up. From the past couple times I did CVs I didn't feel any binding
  15. So it’s gotta be something else then. I’ll dig a bit deeper. Other than Lambro’s comment about CVs being at an odd angle is there anything else I should check for? Maybe I’ll put a new limit strap on that side as well. 4 CVs in 1 season on the passanger side is very over kill

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