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About Drdune

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  1. I'm with you Was traveling for business 9/11 and had to confiscate an off service demo to drive home following weekend. Once I knew driving times to major cities, it was easy to give up the flying bs. ontario was airport of choice as pre 9/11 I could leave the house 1 hr before flight, and hop the cheap parking shuttle, and be seated and stowed for take off. Nowadays I can't even make it across the 91 in that same hour, much less from the parking lot through all the BS . but the international flights.....even Sunday 5am wasn't good enough. and she calls that s:--t a vacation!
  2. I've heard that also . But, it was back in the vw days when parts were designed to handle 36 hp and 22 ft lb torque and making it to and u the wall meant something!
  3. There is allot of opinion that CV failures are due to lack of lubrication once the CV grease exits the actual coverage of the ball contact surfaces. That being said all the guys that are swearing at one brand of Grease , an promoting another need to look at their own thought process. By that I mean if you're using the brakes whether it be single and cutting breaks, or a lot of heavy braking you're going to heat your rotors sometimes to the point that you're causing whatever your favorite brand of CV grease to get heated to a point that it will melt and be thrown out of the contact point where it is needed to protect. I personally noted that my car was picking up a vibration/sensation on Hard cornering with the cutting brake, I called for a group stop and we all noted that my brakes were extremely wwarm and others in our group were as well but not to my level. We found the root cause to be that my brake pedal was actually hanging up on it'spivot shaft. I like yourself went back to camp had a look at the CVs and noted that there was some damaged components, but was able to re-lubricate and ride for several more days to end the season. Point would be that the more you use the brakes the more heat is going to develop causing the grease to thin and travel from the points were is needed most. I believe that the heat transfer is even more on cars with mid board hubs. More power, quicker destruction.
  4. Joe has allot of good experience have you tried the spot option on your mig starting with a clean area?
  5. I'm glad that you seem to of got a diagnosis of your issue. Don't want to stir the pot, but do you have any opinion on what caused the ECM to become faulty? For those not familiar with the terminology, ECM stands for engine control module. Similar terms maybe PCM voltage test are helpful in basic diagnosis, and of course you always have to be careful not to short out the ECM. in the process of doing the test. You had sounded like you were getting to the point where doing some voltage drop testing would've been helpful in a decision had you not had a known good ECM to swap. Or another test you could've completed, disconnect the ECM and put it on the bench, and use a jumper wire to ground the fuel pump relay coil wire in the ECM connector to ground. That is essentially what the ECM does to give the prime sound you were looking for from the fuel pump. Utilizing the jumper wire would've verified The operation of all the fuel pump wiring, the fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump it self. Please make note that any time a jumper wire is utilized I recommend that the ECM be disconnected from the vehicle so a voltage surge cannot damage it. The gentleman was very nice to come to your help and provide a donor unit. However, I would've recommended that you take your questionable ECM and put it in a known good vehicle for testing. If your car has a wiring or electrical problem that took out a ECM you are not risking damage to a good unit by not identifying the true source of the incident and subjecting The donor ECM to hthe same conditions that damaged your original unit. If your original ECM that you suspect is faulty had been transferred to a running vehicle and doesn't reproduce the same conditions, no start, no fuel pump prime, then you know that you need to look elsewhere with your diagnosis. By chance did you ever plug the original ECM back in and try to restart, just out of curiosity? A quality ECM Will have protection against voltage surges and overloads built-in. Keep in mind that this is a balance between cost and adequate protection to protect from high failure rates. A connection with high resistance or a broken connection could possibly make contact on a substitute ECM, thereby leaving you problems down the road. In that situation your ECM would've also started a known good vehicle.
  6. Thank you, i appreciate your input and experience with the station in EC. I've been aware that they are there but concern weither they have it and the %. I also have LHC friends still on race and looking at options. That $10 / gal BS sure puts a damper on a broker guys budget...
  7. That is the question that is the motivator for the post. It would be simple if our Motec and other ecm s would be compatible with the flex fuel sensor and a simple driver program install. A hour on the dyno to confirm and back to the dunes you go. There are certain flex fuel pumping locations here in Central Arizona that it appears the proprietors understand that we are after the higher percentage. However they seem to run out quickly and frequently. Unfortunately this is a somewhat limited group of stations and they are not necessarily convenient, much less functional if you're trying to fill a fueling station on a trailer and a couple barrels inside. The remainder of the stations would obviously like to be selling 85, but they are also trying to stay within the laws that say they will be under 85% on total volume. A lot of the information I have gathered indicates that in our hot dry climate the ethanol tends to evaporate a lot quicker then the gasoline thereby dropping the ethanol percentage the longer it is in storage. I have even had a facility claim that their losses due to evaporation make it non-profitable to be in the E market . The problem with the prepackaged 5 gallon cans of 85 is the pricing.. The difference in the bulk fuel costs utilizing 5 gallon cans would be a whopping $675 at current rates. That's a heavy swallow for a week in the desert. Not to mention that most stores don't have the inventory to fill a 20 can order. For my car in particular, I am not pushed to the maximum limit, as far as reliability versus leaving horsepower left on the table. Although I still don't have the comfort level that running on E70 is safe from a reliability standpoint. Obviously if I cannot come up with a way to effectively adjust based on the fuel that is in the tank currently then I will probably have to go back and have it determined just to be safe and not take out expensive engine parts .
  8. thanks.....but 8 months later I've utilized the A return policy several times....seems the labels ink doesn't care fro e85 either! BTW.....the zone is a easy hit for me on the way home.....when they have it they are usually above 70, but they are often out on Sunday s as a side note they have a wide variety liquor store as well to quench personal thirst as well *******My SUV handles like s#i+ with 40 gallons or more behind the rear wheels!*******
  9. So there is no doubt you either love ethanol or you hate it. This might be one of those contributing factors that makes you lean towards the hate side. If you're currently running ethanol in your ride then you may or may not be aware of some changes. Yes it appears that they stopped selling us race petroleum at the pump. Being a resident of Arizona, which apparently was dry for several years, and now it's back...sort of. What I'm referring to is the sticker on the pump and what it really says, and means. The label on the pump at your local ethanol station may still refer to the product as E85, however if you read closely it isn't a disclaimer that identifys it will have between 45 and 85% ethanol.. pay attention California residents,it was late last year when I first identified the sticker on my favorite Chevron in Beaumont. I was very disappointed when I tested and saw that I was getting E70 for my money. OK I'm not looking to Point fingers, I just want to get a solution. First of all I bought a tester and although it is kind of primitive, with pennies worth a flex fuel,a little water, and I can determine what dose the fuel is, and if it's safe to run or not. If you were not aware of the content change of the ethanol product at your local station, and have been running it in a high-performance motor thinking all is safe, you may be closer to a real expensive engine repair than you are aware of. For every time when I've actually bought ethanol as tested, verifying that Its content is at least 65% or better, Ive probably walked away from the gas pump twice. Chasing around town with my cans and tester looking for true high content ethanol is not my idea of fun. You May or may not be aware but automobiles that you buy at your local dealership that are flex fuel compatible have a alcohol content sensor built-in to them, and with the results of the sensor as a input the ecm has the ability to select the correct Engine management program to run on based on the fuel that is currently in the tank. I'm yet to see a sand car that is utilizing this technology. All this having been said I am obviously concerned about my car, which is like most of them out there, and i was tuned exclusively for 85%. I am aware that there was likely a variance prior to the law changes, however I don't think it was as low as 45% alcohol content. With this I'm looking to start at a discussion. I would like to get input from other people and establish what they have done to accommodate the lower alcohol content. I am aware that Haltec offers the ability to add the alcohol content sensor as an input to their ecms , but like everybody else I'm running a motec. I Have not been able to identify if my current motec ECM is capable of utilizing a alcohol content sensor, and if a motec program Is available ready to install for the motec as is for the haltec? The Programs I've seen look like they are added to the initial program as a table of compensation factors that adjusts timing advance, air fuel ratio, etc. that corrects for the current value of E in the fuel. It appears that a tuner has spent a large amount of time on the dyno proofing what the chemist have determined about the quality of fuel. It seems that would be the quickest, most effective, economical solution. A few of my questions our as follows: Knowing that my car was tuned to what is believed to be 85 in the tank, at what E content do I need to be concerned? What would be the absolute do not run on less than %? Are upgrades available for the Motec system to adapt for running ethanol? If I was just looking to tune to a lower value fuel, what would be a recommended content level to tune to? Are there other adjustments that I could safely be making? Has anyone been testing product at California stations?
  10. Rear door opening width and. Between wheel wells width? Please!
  11. Interesting....some pictures depict graphics on side panels and others not so much?
  12. I'm also with st Clair.....after some shopping. They have done me right. but, the general concense is that foremost is the only company writing new off road paper and there is a 30 k cap. Funny thing, when I was shopping there were several companies that wanted to act like they were players and drag you through the process then at the end claim they aren't currently writing policies. But the have a hell of a deal on my cars, house, etc. etc.....including aaa whom I was with. When I cancelled all the losers to join up with st Clair, they started that why are you leaving, we can cover that shit all over again. good luck
  13. The liars....oh I'm sorry, lawyers have made it not profitable to keep the name going. Insurance is so controlling and expensive, you will see the same products by someone else soon.....didn't I read junk one has opened back up?
  14. X2 Not a problem exclusive to the 2d. Allot of sporty model cars have this issue. Some have gone as thin as atf in std gearboxs. More frequent oil service is then needed and causes bearings and syncros to premature wear. Better to learn to warm up, and Be nice for first couple miles. EMPI parts are a good example of the old statement "you get what you pay for" or "bic lighter"

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