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Drdune

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Everything posted by Drdune

  1. Part # on down facing side....it might help identify a good deal. Just saying
  2. With usual group, 45 to 65 miles a day. That's in 1 ride. Trying to see who will run out first. 10 to ?? day trips , 6 to 8 a season we usually take atleast 1 day a week off for shopping, weather, maintenance, etc i think the shocker here would be the amounts of fuel used/ hours/ miles several in the group track mileage, no one tracks hours, but we avg 4.5-5 hour rides
  3. Ever drive a Funco with a subi? If you watch people's actions on the board you will see time after time guys will trade off a subi 2 d pkg for ls albin, the a season later they are trying to sale there dream car, and when they do, they end up with another Funco subi pkg. let the hate mail begin🤔🤣🙄 seriously, a well built subi 2d 930 Funco has a great handling low cog and is plenty fast enough to get most people in trouble. If you tend to be loaded with 4 or 5 full size adults then I can see wanting more torque for the load. However, there is no denying that a 2 d is N O T a good match for a ls or any 8 for that matter, neither are the 930s,,I'm assuming that is what you are running so, seen as its your money.....let's look out further. Assuming you have gotten a handle on the gen 3 updates, but have probably not upgraded to by passes. I'm assuming you are looking for reliable hp. If you are decided ls is the only answer, than it probably would be best, or more cost effective to sale the current, add the cash and get the car with ls, albins, 934s, and bypasses. Usually when a car is being built with the $$$ options, they take them all. I can recall several cars in classified in the past 18 months and the prices seemed not to far fetched. you may want to consider a Honda. Replace the no* with a Honda to motivate a buyer and bring more $$ off the current. And yes, look in parts classified to see what complete engine package is available this week. i don't know you, so I have to guess based on what most people would do. If you are unhappy with the current powertrain, for reliability reasons it's hard to believe you will be happy with the trans and driveline after a ls upgrade. Don't mean to kill or question your plan, just being a realist. I evolved to and through sand cars starting with vw powertrain so I've learned not to abuse the driveline. 2d is a great box but it as well as 930s have there limitations. Planing for the limitations now will help you not to be disappointed with your decision later, or to have to motivate a sell of a ls, 2d, 930, mismatch with$$ off the price.
  4. Yep, the stop watch wasn't used but that seems about right. But, I start to have concerns for my fellow mans skill level when I see blogs questioning parts quality due to the absence of timing marks (elsewhere). We all have times when it's best to hire a skilled professional. Identifying those times is key to a drama free life. A jumped time subi can be a relatively costly mistake.
  5. Any chance of getting some photos? That could answer hundreds of ?'s what is the rating of the fuel injectors ?
  6. My second gen 4, last was a big5 subi on e 85 .....had 1 often wanted second battery on cold mornings. current hustler subi on e with a second battery......that thing cranks forever as needed.....probably time to get a spare starter in stock in the trailer. last owner had some tuneage on the car and had the extra power so the party didn't end. Battery is mounted on the opposite side in exact matter as original. i would suggest giving Funco a call and have them hook you up, so to speak. I would bet that the can weld that box on to the frame and make it look like it has always been there. If you wanted to wire it yourself, just hook the correct length cables up to the same points that the cables of battery 1 go to. (hopefully u understand what I'm (not) sayin) the pc925 model battery is rated at 330 cold crank amps. As a rule of thump, you should have roughly 1 cca for for each cubic inch. So, if you over 400 cubic inches....might wanna see what your starter specs are? Especially if you are high compression or on e.
  7. Hmmm, I don't recall the last time I saw a valve job being done on a ls or any v8 due to blower drive system belt failure??? I have seen plenty of blown ls cars with thrown belts, even guys stating they loose a belt frequently as every trip... dont recall all the small ford 4 bangers, but I know that atleast some of them have broken belt clearance. good point regarding heat...if the covers heat up and warp on the header, than I'm sure belt life would not be extended by removing the cover and allowing the additional heat in. The plastic gears would have a even shorter life. They are designed to collapse on a certain load. by design the quad cam s subi s have allot of belt flop and is likely to jump. Subi and aftermarket are constantly addressing this with new designs to tensioner and idler systems. I just recently replaced a severely worn crank gear and considered myself lucky I caught it before the belt jumped. It had very low hours sense its last inspection. And I do agree with GM, as in my case as I've established that I don't get allot of dust and sand in. But, until I knew that the sand wasn't entering, it was a daily inspection. Now once a trip or about every 25 -30 hours. (this is a average trip for me) I'm not aware of any other gas charged tensionered timing belt engine that has issues with this like subi. Hondas thiner belt would eject the sand quicker but still would have life issues if the cam gears and belt were exposed to sand full time. I guess I'll date my self by referring to the issues vw s used to have with crank pulley and alternator belts in the sand. It's called sand paper for a reason! If you cannot keep the sand from getting in, atleast let it get out sounds like the ford therory. I'm not familiar with the frame that started this topic but different frames run cleaner, exposing the engine less to the sand than others. The Funco s are very clean, and will require less removal of sand at the engine Atleast if your not constantly dragging the ass when in a wheelie. Some frames are A L L O T dirtier requiring removal of the sand from the engine area very frequently. Obviously driving habits will verrie as well. I've tried to hand down the tribal knowledge to a new subi owner. I appreciate that others had given it to me and have hopefully saved me a $$ or 2 along the way. Hopefully it will work well for him as well. Regarding the drive it or fix it attitude......well that's another very long topic. While I would never want to leave a fellow duner stuck out in the sand, some people need to learn to properly prep or schedule an appointment with someone who knows how to! But I will hit that topic when someone else posts it! "Why maintain the dam, it never rains"
  8. I will restate the obvious as I've seen allot of "bad calls" on low mileage engines. A compression test and a leak down test will only establish the condition of the compression rings valve seats, and valve face. It is only a assumption that the oil control rings and valve guides and stems are in the same condition safe assumption that with your leakdown test #'s blow by is not the cause. out of curiousosity, was leak down testing done warm engine? The reason I ask is this would not be the first time that a turbo engines numbers were good hot, but the results were pointing to engine ring failure cold. These cases always had a complaint of hard starting cold, and all the other causes were eliminated. These cases ( to my knowledge) had a catalyst in place so not likely smoke would be a issue. I wonder what a damaged pistons readings would do in response to a temperature change??? GM has a point regarding the delution and then evaporation, however that would require allot of time with the meth injection in use. let me go out of the 'normal'. What are u using to measure oil level? Has the dipstick been modified to have bling or to correct the broken handle? May I suggest that you identify that you have the correct dipstick for the oil pan and tube you are running. Perhaps the engine oil level is running higher than designed causing it to burn off the "overfill". You would not be the first oil consumption issue that I've seen be resolved by running a lower oil level. Most manufacturers specify the level between a full and add mark, usually referred to as normal range. If your dipstick was modified to add billet or chrome end and not re marked now that it is shortened you can be unknowingly overfilling. I would suspect that if a pan, tube, stick combomation was mixed that could source some issue as well. just saying 'about 5 quarts' could mean allot of difference considering all of the available filtering systems that are available out there...
  9. GM I (don't) agree with you, in this case.... Your statement ,for your car, with a new engine, and your experience, yes, I agree that this is not a daily concern. For someone unfamiliar with subi or t belt engines, I think they need to be aware of the risk of sand intrusion into the timing belt housing, mixed with a liquid leak. then they can make the decision on weither to repair or drive and be confident with that decision....... As confident as I will be when I provide the phone # to sand cat, rather than the end of my tow rope.....😳🤣
  10. You should be pulling the cam gear covers daily and "blowing out" any sand or dust that is building up in the belt area. This will extend belt and gear life. Do you know for sure that it is a oil leak and not coolant? The area you identify would be common for both. So identify what leaking first and then you can you can address accordingly. if you have a quality socket set and impact , you will likely not need a holding tool. cam seals, cam caps, oil pump seals and water pump could all be a common source, what is the history of the engine? but, most of all, oil and coolant will damage the timing belt on contact. You may want to pull the cam cover and make sure the belt is dry. i would not recommend "one last ride" on a contaminated belt as the gamble is just not worth it. If the belt fails to keep time, it will very likely need a valve job or worse to repair. if the previous owner did not advise you to pull the covers and clean the area, then did he advise you, or are you aware that you only want to transport a subi engine in neutral? The rocking back in forth motion that can occur in transit can collapse the timing belt tensioner and allow it to jump time.
  11. I'm with you Was traveling for business 9/11 and had to confiscate an off service demo to drive home following weekend. Once I knew driving times to major cities, it was easy to give up the flying bs. ontario was airport of choice as pre 9/11 I could leave the house 1 hr before flight, and hop the cheap parking shuttle, and be seated and stowed for take off. Nowadays I can't even make it across the 91 in that same hour, much less from the parking lot through all the BS . but the international flights.....even Sunday 5am wasn't good enough. and she calls that s:--t a vacation!
  12. I've heard that also . But, it was back in the vw days when parts were designed to handle 36 hp and 22 ft lb torque and making it to and u the wall meant something!
  13. There is allot of opinion that CV failures are due to lack of lubrication once the CV grease exits the actual coverage of the ball contact surfaces. That being said all the guys that are swearing at one brand of Grease , an promoting another need to look at their own thought process. By that I mean if you're using the brakes whether it be single and cutting breaks, or a lot of heavy braking you're going to heat your rotors sometimes to the point that you're causing whatever your favorite brand of CV grease to get heated to a point that it will melt and be thrown out of the contact point where it is needed to protect. I personally noted that my car was picking up a vibration/sensation on Hard cornering with the cutting brake, I called for a group stop and we all noted that my brakes were extremely wwarm and others in our group were as well but not to my level. We found the root cause to be that my brake pedal was actually hanging up on it'spivot shaft. I like yourself went back to camp had a look at the CVs and noted that there was some damaged components, but was able to re-lubricate and ride for several more days to end the season. Point would be that the more you use the brakes the more heat is going to develop causing the grease to thin and travel from the points were is needed most. I believe that the heat transfer is even more on cars with mid board hubs. More power, quicker destruction.
  14. Joe has allot of good experience have you tried the spot option on your mig starting with a clean area?
  15. I'm glad that you seem to of got a diagnosis of your issue. Don't want to stir the pot, but do you have any opinion on what caused the ECM to become faulty? For those not familiar with the terminology, ECM stands for engine control module. Similar terms maybe PCM voltage test are helpful in basic diagnosis, and of course you always have to be careful not to short out the ECM. in the process of doing the test. You had sounded like you were getting to the point where doing some voltage drop testing would've been helpful in a decision had you not had a known good ECM to swap. Or another test you could've completed, disconnect the ECM and put it on the bench, and use a jumper wire to ground the fuel pump relay coil wire in the ECM connector to ground. That is essentially what the ECM does to give the prime sound you were looking for from the fuel pump. Utilizing the jumper wire would've verified The operation of all the fuel pump wiring, the fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump it self. Please make note that any time a jumper wire is utilized I recommend that the ECM be disconnected from the vehicle so a voltage surge cannot damage it. The gentleman was very nice to come to your help and provide a donor unit. However, I would've recommended that you take your questionable ECM and put it in a known good vehicle for testing. If your car has a wiring or electrical problem that took out a ECM you are not risking damage to a good unit by not identifying the true source of the incident and subjecting The donor ECM to hthe same conditions that damaged your original unit. If your original ECM that you suspect is faulty had been transferred to a running vehicle and doesn't reproduce the same conditions, no start, no fuel pump prime, then you know that you need to look elsewhere with your diagnosis. By chance did you ever plug the original ECM back in and try to restart, just out of curiosity? A quality ECM Will have protection against voltage surges and overloads built-in. Keep in mind that this is a balance between cost and adequate protection to protect from high failure rates. A connection with high resistance or a broken connection could possibly make contact on a substitute ECM, thereby leaving you problems down the road. In that situation your ECM would've also started a known good vehicle.
  16. Thank you, i appreciate your input and experience with the station in EC. I've been aware that they are there but concern weither they have it and the %. I also have LHC friends still on race and looking at options. That $10 / gal BS sure puts a damper on a broker guys budget...
  17. That is the question that is the motivator for the post. It would be simple if our Motec and other ecm s would be compatible with the flex fuel sensor and a simple driver program install. A hour on the dyno to confirm and back to the dunes you go. There are certain flex fuel pumping locations here in Central Arizona that it appears the proprietors understand that we are after the higher percentage. However they seem to run out quickly and frequently. Unfortunately this is a somewhat limited group of stations and they are not necessarily convenient, much less functional if you're trying to fill a fueling station on a trailer and a couple barrels inside. The remainder of the stations would obviously like to be selling 85, but they are also trying to stay within the laws that say they will be under 85% on total volume. A lot of the information I have gathered indicates that in our hot dry climate the ethanol tends to evaporate a lot quicker then the gasoline thereby dropping the ethanol percentage the longer it is in storage. I have even had a facility claim that their losses due to evaporation make it non-profitable to be in the E market . The problem with the prepackaged 5 gallon cans of 85 is the pricing.. The difference in the bulk fuel costs utilizing 5 gallon cans would be a whopping $675 at current rates. That's a heavy swallow for a week in the desert. Not to mention that most stores don't have the inventory to fill a 20 can order. For my car in particular, I am not pushed to the maximum limit, as far as reliability versus leaving horsepower left on the table. Although I still don't have the comfort level that running on E70 is safe from a reliability standpoint. Obviously if I cannot come up with a way to effectively adjust based on the fuel that is in the tank currently then I will probably have to go back and have it determined just to be safe and not take out expensive engine parts .
  18. thanks.....but 8 months later I've utilized the A return policy several times....seems the labels ink doesn't care fro e85 either! BTW.....the zone is a easy hit for me on the way home.....when they have it they are usually above 70, but they are often out on Sunday s as a side note they have a wide variety liquor store as well to quench personal thirst as well *******My SUV handles like s#i+ with 40 gallons or more behind the rear wheels!*******
  19. So there is no doubt you either love ethanol or you hate it. This might be one of those contributing factors that makes you lean towards the hate side. If you're currently running ethanol in your ride then you may or may not be aware of some changes. Yes it appears that they stopped selling us race petroleum at the pump. Being a resident of Arizona, which apparently was dry for several years, and now it's back...sort of. What I'm referring to is the sticker on the pump and what it really says, and means. The label on the pump at your local ethanol station may still refer to the product as E85, however if you read closely it isn't a disclaimer that identifys it will have between 45 and 85% ethanol.. pay attention California residents,it was late last year when I first identified the sticker on my favorite Chevron in Beaumont. I was very disappointed when I tested and saw that I was getting E70 for my money. OK I'm not looking to Point fingers, I just want to get a solution. First of all I bought a tester and although it is kind of primitive, with pennies worth a flex fuel,a little water, and I can determine what dose the fuel is, and if it's safe to run or not. If you were not aware of the content change of the ethanol product at your local station, and have been running it in a high-performance motor thinking all is safe, you may be closer to a real expensive engine repair than you are aware of. For every time when I've actually bought ethanol as tested, verifying that Its content is at least 65% or better, Ive probably walked away from the gas pump twice. Chasing around town with my cans and tester looking for true high content ethanol is not my idea of fun. You May or may not be aware but automobiles that you buy at your local dealership that are flex fuel compatible have a alcohol content sensor built-in to them, and with the results of the sensor as a input the ecm has the ability to select the correct Engine management program to run on based on the fuel that is currently in the tank. I'm yet to see a sand car that is utilizing this technology. All this having been said I am obviously concerned about my car, which is like most of them out there, and i was tuned exclusively for 85%. I am aware that there was likely a variance prior to the law changes, however I don't think it was as low as 45% alcohol content. With this I'm looking to start at a discussion. I would like to get input from other people and establish what they have done to accommodate the lower alcohol content. I am aware that Haltec offers the ability to add the alcohol content sensor as an input to their ecms , but like everybody else I'm running a motec. I Have not been able to identify if my current motec ECM is capable of utilizing a alcohol content sensor, and if a motec program Is available ready to install for the motec as is for the haltec? The Programs I've seen look like they are added to the initial program as a table of compensation factors that adjusts timing advance, air fuel ratio, etc. that corrects for the current value of E in the fuel. It appears that a tuner has spent a large amount of time on the dyno proofing what the chemist have determined about the quality of fuel. It seems that would be the quickest, most effective, economical solution. A few of my questions our as follows: Knowing that my car was tuned to what is believed to be 85 in the tank, at what E content do I need to be concerned? What would be the absolute do not run on less than %? Are upgrades available for the Motec system to adapt for running ethanol? If I was just looking to tune to a lower value fuel, what would be a recommended content level to tune to? Are there other adjustments that I could safely be making? Has anyone been testing product at California stations?
  20. Rear door opening width and. Between wheel wells width? Please!
  21. Interesting....some pictures depict graphics on side panels and others not so much?
  22. I'm also with st Clair.....after some shopping. They have done me right. but, the general concense is that foremost is the only company writing new off road paper and there is a 30 k cap. Funny thing, when I was shopping there were several companies that wanted to act like they were players and drag you through the process then at the end claim they aren't currently writing policies. But the have a hell of a deal on my cars, house, etc. etc.....including aaa whom I was with. When I cancelled all the losers to join up with st Clair, they started that why are you leaving, we can cover that shit all over again. good luck

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