Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

55 Excellent

About evantwheeler

  • Rank
    Dune Master

Profile Information

  • Location
    San Bernardino

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    By the Canal
  • Your Ride
    Alumicraft 2 seat Pre-runner

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. New Age Cabinets on Amazon. Ton's of great reviews and free shipping. Very reasonably priced and look great. No way you need to spend anywhere near $10k unless you just like spending money. Photos here: https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/new-age-garage-cabinets.199105/
  2. My 934's with Mantek look identical, but I had probably 5-6 days of driving on them. Upon cleaning, the grease inside the CV's looked to have metal flake in them and best I can tell, it is coming from the balls. All stars & cages look good so I put new balls in and put them all back together and using the Mantek again because I have more of it.
  3. Time Left: 22 days and 11 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I have a 1993 Baja Islander 240 open bow for sale. The hull measures ~22.5’ and the swim step is ~1.5’. This boat & trailer will fit in your standard “boat deep” Havasu garage. Carbureated 7.4L 454 with a Bravo 1 outdrive.This would be a great boat for a young family looking to get on the water – lots of storage space in this boat. It would also be great for a young person looking for an affordable and reliable boat to pack full of other young friends and bump the stereo all day having fun enjoying the scenery. I really do not want to sell the boat, but I have not been able to use it for two years due to other commitments and it just doesn’t make sense to let it sit. I purchased this boat from a co-worker who inherited it after his father-in-law passed. The boat had ~500 hrs on it and he pulled the motor and freshened it up. His work included rebuilt heads, new bearings, pistons & rings. He had a shop in the Inland Empire install a new gimble bearing after which they also reinstalled the engine & aligned the drive/engine. He put about 8 hours or so on the boat on Lake Mead and I bought it from him December 2015. Current hours are ~575. I have not had one single issue with the boat in the 65 hours I put on it summer of 2016 & 2017. After purchasing the boat I performed the following work:• Built new rear bench seat out of marine plywood & coated in polyurethane. Bench has two custom coolers built in with drains to the bilge. • Installed a tilt helm and new steering wheel• Installed a Dana marine off-shore style control with new cables for both throttle & gear selection• Installed new Arco Marine starter (~65 hrs)• Installed new marine fuel pump (~4 hrs)• Installed new water impeller (~4 hrs)• Installed a winch relay & re-wired the electric hatch circuit. Hatch opens & closes in ¼ of the time as the stock configuration. • Installed stainless through bolts with cone washers for the open bow section. Travelling any significant distance in rough water, the wood screws would back out and this remedied the issue. • All new marine rocker switches on the dash (red back lighting) with USB charging ports.• Dash panels covered in carbon fiber vinyl• All new gauges with 60mph GPS speedo & tachometer with digital hour meter (0 hours on new gauges). Bright white LED back lighting for gauges. • Installed a 19p 4 blade quicksilver stainless steel prop (boat also has a stainless 3 blade 21p on board as a spare).• Brand new Baja factory mooring cover (overstock item purchased from Great Lakes Skipper). This is NOT a towing cover to my knowledge. I have not and would not tow with it on.Boat has a KILLER stereo system. o Exile Bluetooth receivero Clarion equalizer for volume, bass, & sound controlo Polk 6x9s under dasho Powerbass 6.5” coaxials at captains & co-captains seatso Powerbass 8” coaxials at rear bencho (2) kicker Comp VR 12” wired at 1 ohm (these subs have rubber surround and waterproof cones – perfect for boats)o Custom sealed sub boxes with 1 cu ft volume, resin coated inside & out and covered in grey carpet. Sub box sides extend beyond the back surface of the box and fit tight to hull of the boat to provide storage pockets between the back of the box & hull. o PPI 1000.1 sub ampo PPI 600.4 speaker ampo Bilge blower fan installed under dash to cool amps on hot dayso (2) Napa deep cycle 8231 batteries in parallel (105 amp hour each). You can listen to music all day long without issue, sun up to sun down. These batteries are completely independent and are NOT charged on the water by the engine alternator. Batteries must be charged at the dock or back at home overnight in current configuration.  Noco Genius 2-bank 20amp charger included which is connected to stereo batteries. 50’ on board extension cord. The interior of this boat is very clean. I would give the vinyl a 7.5 out of 10. There are no rips or tears. The rear hatch is showing some signs of age at some of the stitching seams. Sometime in the recent past before 2015, the original owner had the upholstery re-done and also had a new floor installed. The floor is solid with no soft spots (I’m 180 lbs ). There are a few stains in the carpet that were present when I bought the boat. Trailer is a Trail-Rite C-channel main & cross member construction in very good condition with no corrosion. Bunks are new pressure treated 2x4’s. Brand new trailer coupler/hitch with surge master cylinder. Drums have been turned with brand new backing plates, pads, & wheel cylinders installed. Koyo wheel bearings & races looked good so I cleaned & repacked them. Tires were new in 2015 and have maybe 2000 miles on them. Trailer is titled in NV & is not current on registration due to no use of boat over past 2 years. Boat and trailer has been stored indoors since I have owned it with cover & tarp over it. Batteries have been maintained by switching the Noco charger between the stereo batteries and the motor batteries. One motor battery is tested no good for some reason, and I will be replacing it before the sale. Contact me via email for hundreds of pictures taken during the remodel process. Thanks,Evan


    San Bernardino, California - US

  4. Thanks for the offer. This is not something I have time to address right now, will be doing something about it this fall though. I think I've got enough options with the suggestions in this thread to put something together on the cheap myself. As far as I know, axles have been in the car since day 1 (2004). There is no binding in the axle throughout the arm travel, so I'm not risking breaking a transmission. Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to respond!
  5. So what it the correct point of reference for taking the measurement? Based on Kartek's explanation, it seems like it is point B or Point C. Based on @L.R.S. method, it is Point A. Big difference in length based on different points of reference. OK, so maybe the terminology of Kartek's explanation is wrong. When I thick "bottom" I am thinking in the vertical plane. Point A would be the "bottom" of the cup if the axle was standing vertical on a table. I think they are saying the "back" of the cup, in relation to the drive flange mounting surface, which would be Point A and coincides with Jeff's method. Thanks for listening to me talk to myself out loud....
  6. So your measurement tells you OAL of axle. Where do the sprial lock grooves go? It seems to me that this dimesion ( distance between the grooves) would be just as critical as OAL. Hope this isn't against the rules, but someone over on Dune and Dirt literally just posted a neat trick for measuring OAL of axles. https://forums.duneanddirt.com/forum/technical-discussion-ae/test/28447-axle-measuring-tool
  7. @punkur67 Are these what you were looking for? https://www.tabzone.com/TZ05S200-2-CAGE-CONNECTOR_p_717.html
  8. In prepping my CV's, it is obvious that my axles are too long. The axle hits the cup of the microstub, but does not hit the cup of the drive flange on the transaxle. I did a search and couldn't find any definitive method for measuring for axles, except for that you need to measure at compression and full droop. For my case, I think I just need to trim the end of the axle and put a new groove on the transaxle end of the axles so that they do not travel as far into the microstub cup. They are just barely too long because the ends of the axles are not mushroomed, I can still the the stars off without issue. Questions from those with knowledge/experience: 1. What reference points should be used to measure? Face where CV mates to? Center of cup? 2. When someone says they have 3x" long axles, is it correct to reference the end to end length, or the length between the inside faces of the spiral locks? I think ultimately what we are looking for is spiral lock to spiral lock, and then a minimal amount of length from the groove, correct? 3. The transaxle end of my axles have splines about twice as long as the microstub end. What is the purpose of this and how long SHOULD the splines on each end be? Video where you can hear the axle end hit the cup: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1va4NBXHP8BqRY58iUoEJP8Rj6v8JEUIw Photo of cup:
  9. Sent you a PM. Where are these tires located?
  10. Never heard or read a bad word about Colton Truck Terminal till this thread. They've serviced my coach since I purchased and the three times it has been there for service/maintenance, I've had zero complaints. They actually go above & beyond in my opinion. They caught a broken radiator mount and fixed a left hand pull in the steering wheel that had something to do with the steering stabilizer. They are very busy and can be difficult to get a hold of. I've always had to make an appointment a month out. They're busy for a reason, and it's certainly not because they're incompetent.....
  11. Never once had an issue with swirling sand or vision in my car with full body, hood, & windshield. I enjoy driving with both the wind shield on & off. I like the windshield best when cruising around with a hat, sunglasses and headsets. I also like it when playing cat and mouse with buddies cars that put out big roosts and the sand stays mostly out of the cockpit. I like leading with the windshield off, there is a more open feel to the driving experience, but not so much better that I prefer to drive with it off. I have to take the windshield off in Idaho when it's hot due to how thin the air is and the decrease in cooling efficiency. Never had it off in glamis.
  12. When will you be in ID?
  13. So this grease you are replacing doesn't just dissolve into thin air, it is migrating into the boot correct? Do you pull the boot back and scoop out the grease at all periodically, or just at the end of the season and keep on pumping in through the Zerk throughout the winter?

More Links

©2001 GlamisDunes.com.
All rights reserved.

  • Create New...