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About BoogerDeuce

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  1. Drivetrain loss is most certainly dependent on load, and is not fixed based upon the transaxle type. It's obviously much more complicated than this, but here is just a snippet of the action, but I'd venture to guess it is the primary loss driver. Consider any pair of spur gears; due to the pressure angle that conical on conical gear faces have (they are never perfectly aligned, that's just geometry folks) for any force applied by the first gear, the second gear sees both a tangential force (that's the transmitted force) as well as a radial force (this is the wasted force, parasitic loss, whatever you want to call it). More force applied, more total lost force. For simplicity, %loss it a much better formula.
  2. I'm using the radiator stop leak and coolant mix, getting sick of it weeping out and onto the trailer floor. Next time around I'll go with the liquid starch.
  3. Car looks awesome! Super inspiring thread , more pics please! Which light pods are those? Just curious with the mid and low height mounting whether it gives you enough light for night rides? It doesn’t look like a ton of light but these things put out a deceptively large amount of light these days so just thought I’d ask
  4. Generally you want to torque things up as much as the materials allow. Have higher strength bolts? , go with a higher torque (as long as the adjacent material and threads are adequate as well). These charts are all based upon a set percentage of bolt stretch (typically 65% of yield strength). The more bolt torque (preload force) that is applied to the joint, the harder it is to pull it apart. When you pull it apart (called joint gapping), the joint can slip, misalign, impact (that's typically the worst result)....basically bad things happen. Preload via installation torque alone is a poor method for fastener retention. Even as slick as those Nordlocs look, while they do lock well, they most certainly create other problems- namely they permanently deform the mating face, mar the surface, potentially cause corrosion sites , and most of all the indents become crack propagation initiators. Personally I'd stick to high strength fasteners at the appropriately high torque, and then use temporary Loctite.
  5. Agreed on the measurement method, but toe in aids in straight forward tendency, and not sure that is desired for duning. Yes for drags probably but that’s not my jam. Whenever I’ve run any significant toe in, the car turns like a dog or seems to plow. I’ve played quite a bit with this on the Tom Pro car at least, and it started to really want to turn well once I had at least 1/4” toe out. I think I stopped at 3/8” toe out it really started hooking into the turns hard at that point. And yes I could definitely feel the progression and response change. It’s really easy to adjust and test and felt pretty rewarding to dial it in. Breaking in the new to me buggy steering I’ll start at zero then begin adding toe out in between rides until it gets happy.
  6. Ur right, got my science-ey word backwards! either way, the paint supplies it’s own reaction energy to cure
  7. It didn’t react with the filter, it reacted with itself. It’s called an endothermic reaction, and is common with epoxies mostly, but really all thermoset resins, like polyester, polyurethane, etc. What happens is it gives off heat as the polymer crosslinks/cures. If there is a large amount of the material together, it can really build up lots of heat and ignite itself. So a hepa filter would be a good place to collect lots of curing paint. Fun stuff, although I’ve mostly only seen it in a cup or bucket full of curing epoxy or polyester resin. Typically just the leftovers, you know?
  8. Ran across in an off road warehouse advert and just wondered if any duners had tried this one or the generic versions? I’ve got the sport mode and eco button in my commuter car and it is pretty darn fun. https://pedalcommander.com/?utm_campaign=Pedal+Commander&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&utm_term=pedal commander&hsa_acc=4704139283&hsa_cam=2040666662&hsa_ad=356416835031&hsa_tgt=kwd-302408449673&hsa_grp=71114985574&hsa_mt=e&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&hsa_kw=pedal commander&hsa_src=g&gclid=CjwKCAjw8NfrBRA7EiwAfiVJpfFFheqqJAmnQSWKxCFicxPnVX6dMrHDsJhbEsxJxvyElzBdvA3W9RoC0CcQAvD_BwE
  9. Guessing 1100 lbs. it’s nice because 1 grown man or any couple of people can drag the front end downhill if you get stuck. i think the technical term is actually back cut dogs, which aids in the positive gear engagement I.e. it helps itself into gear, no half gear missed shifts making that nasty grinding. APE TRANSMISSIONS Transmission Undercutting Undercutting a transmission involves machining angles on the engagement dogs and slots to prevent the transmission from jumping out of gear under load. yes fuel injected, starts first time every time, runs outstandingly. i got it up to 84 or so in the flats off gecko max speed that’s 6th, but 6th is useless. If you are talking about sand highway to Gordon’s, then it’d sit in the powerband in the top of fifth at around 70 to 75. It’s pretty scary like that though. On top of the cam in 4th doing 65 or so it’s really snappy and just wants to accelerate
  10. Thanks JD101g! let’s make this more interesting lowered price 14k!
  11. Thanks Crusty! Every single time I drive this without fail I've got a huge smile, it won't disappoint.
  12. 2007 Tom Pro Design Hayabusa powered mini buggy. Chromoly chassis. All fresh and prepped and ready to ride, needs nothing. Just go ride. Why get a boring rzr when you can have way more reliable fun for dirt cheap. The Tom Pro has the roomiest cage- I’m 6’3”, great suspension, and Tom is still in business so you won’t be left out in the cold. Tom and Linda have been amazing at keeping me up and running, advice or parts fast and often times even at Glamis. -Naturally Aspirated, stock gen 1 Hayabusa. RELIABLE. I don’t run the hill, so it’s strictly a dune smasher. Back cut gears is the only mod. Dual K&N filter setup. -reverse box, rebuilt last season, although with NA this was the first rebuild since new. -King shocks freshly rebuilt. Springs and valving are dialed in. -New STU Blaster Pro #2 cut. Nipples galore, we all love fresh nipples on our tires. -In car and car to car radio w 2 headsets and 2 push to talk buttons -fresh battery -7 gal tank, use 91octane, fresh fuel filter -Cool running radiator. Even when it’s 95 out the fan barely comes on. Have to mention this as the King car in our group was really unhappy when it got hot. -5pt harnesses, wrist straps -wing trunk, tool box, and cooler. Plenty of storage space - fresh oil and filter -fresh gear oil -fresh chain, sprocket, countershaft sprocket -fresh heims -LED light bar18000 lumens, lighted whip -GKN 930CVs perfect with no pitting, cracking, or wear. NA just doesn’t wear this car out. Fresh boots. -fire extinguisher, nothing special but it’s a decent size. I spent lots of time just making sure anything and everything works perfect and it drives great with no issues. +another $500 worth of spare parts. 1 brand new micro stub installed, 1 waiting for action. Chain tensioner roller, extra Carbon fiber muffler if that’s your jam. Plus a few other things. This car has been great to me, it hooked my heart on the sand. I hate to sell but have a growing family and need to take a 4 seater further down the rabbit hole. In San Diego $15k Nick 858 775 6005

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