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About BoogerDeuce

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    Wash 10ish
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  1. Barely caught a snap of this bad boy, wing had that rear end majorly planted! Must handle like an absolute dream while squatting through the turns! <<<Cough cough choke gasp>>
  2. For those who want to DIY, RC cars are a great way to learn the concepts before you spend lots of time and money on your big boy car. I learned a ton about suspension tuning from putting a lot of miles and abuse on a 1/10th scale RC car. Lots of fun and beer drinking with friends in the mean time. It was really insightful to be able to see the differences in setups immediately and for so little effort. Go make some tweaks and run a race or some hot laps or whatever and see how it does through the bumps, off jumps, powering through a turn, drifting a turn, changes in camber, toe in/out, etc. Tweak on it while the batteries charge. Not only was it fairly easy to see the differences with tuning, but also recognizing how your car changes handling when the shocks blow out or something changes. So being able to recognize or feel when something is wrong is really critical. With that knowledge I was able to correct the spring rates on my Tom Pro, getting rid of the bucking bronco syndrome, and then from there messed with the valving and preload, along with of course just having fresh seals and oil whenever I needed. The suspension on that thing was dialed in and the car ripped. With a little experience it takes about an hour to an hour and a half to get each shock off the car and rebuilt then back on plus about $25-30 for seals and oil. At first I did the new seals every season but it really wasn't necessary that often. So for what it's worth, it's really not that hard to do.
  3. Holy smokes old thread resurrection record here! Styles for the win!
  4. These have the internal ballast for that clean look FYI
  5. Plenty of life left in these. A few small nicks in the cups, but no big chunks missing. If yours are newer or older, maybe a little bit of cash to even things up. I’m keeping the wheels located in San Diego thanks!
  6. Good condition, with covers. 50W. Have combo lenses. I’m in Glamis with them this weekend in the washes if anybody cares to come check them out.
  7. Drivetrain loss is most certainly dependent on load, and is not fixed based upon the transaxle type. It's obviously much more complicated than this, but here is just a snippet of the action, but I'd venture to guess it is the primary loss driver. Consider any pair of spur gears; due to the pressure angle that conical on conical gear faces have (they are never perfectly aligned, that's just geometry folks) for any force applied by the first gear, the second gear sees both a tangential force (that's the transmitted force) as well as a radial force (this is the wasted force, parasitic loss, whatever you want to call it). More force applied, more total lost force. For simplicity, %loss it a much better formula.
  8. I'm using the radiator stop leak and coolant mix, getting sick of it weeping out and onto the trailer floor. Next time around I'll go with the liquid starch.
  9. Car looks awesome! Super inspiring thread , more pics please! Which light pods are those? Just curious with the mid and low height mounting whether it gives you enough light for night rides? It doesn’t look like a ton of light but these things put out a deceptively large amount of light these days so just thought I’d ask
  10. Generally you want to torque things up as much as the materials allow. Have higher strength bolts? , go with a higher torque (as long as the adjacent material and threads are adequate as well). These charts are all based upon a set percentage of bolt stretch (typically 65% of yield strength). The more bolt torque (preload force) that is applied to the joint, the harder it is to pull it apart. When you pull it apart (called joint gapping), the joint can slip, misalign, impact (that's typically the worst result)....basically bad things happen. Preload via installation torque alone is a poor method for fastener retention. Even as slick as those Nordlocs look, while they do lock well, they most certainly create other problems- namely they permanently deform the mating face, mar the surface, potentially cause corrosion sites , and most of all the indents become crack propagation initiators. Personally I'd stick to high strength fasteners at the appropriately high torque, and then use temporary Loctite.
  11. Agreed on the measurement method, but toe in aids in straight forward tendency, and not sure that is desired for duning. Yes for drags probably but that’s not my jam. Whenever I’ve run any significant toe in, the car turns like a dog or seems to plow. I’ve played quite a bit with this on the Tom Pro car at least, and it started to really want to turn well once I had at least 1/4” toe out. I think I stopped at 3/8” toe out it really started hooking into the turns hard at that point. And yes I could definitely feel the progression and response change. It’s really easy to adjust and test and felt pretty rewarding to dial it in. Breaking in the new to me buggy steering I’ll start at zero then begin adding toe out in between rides until it gets happy.
  12. Ur right, got my science-ey word backwards! either way, the paint supplies it’s own reaction energy to cure

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