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WanderWeasel

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About WanderWeasel

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    Grunt

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    Wash 10ish
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    SCU

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  1. Shout out to JTmoney714 and Kraut- THANKS! Both of you guys not only chimed in on my posts, but also took a couple of long winded phone calls to try and help me out/ point me in the right direction. I'll try and figure out how to pay it forward to the GD site peeps however I can
  2. Out with the old part way in with the new... the race till season opener in in full effect
  3. Ended up finding an used one on ebay, along with some funny business and 10 days later it sure seemed like a scam so I stewed on it and ended up punting on the entire Honda setup.... as I went further down the turbo rabbit hole I figured out that between the need for a dyno tune and the computer and all of the unknowns, that I'd already be into it for the price of an ls swap and much less headache. So that's where it ended up. Just really want a dialed in setup and to have fun with the family instead of fiddle farting with it all the time. Stock NA seems to do that for me.
  4. Paddles measure 1.25” deep I think that means #2 cut. Wheels are about 13.5” wide with 2” backspacing. Apparently the one paddle got the cups chunked driving up a trailer ramp and spun over a shackle. Wide 5 bolt pattern I was lacking fronts and ended up with a full set so these are no longer needed. $600 In San Diego Thanks!
  5. Hold onto your hats folks, it's a two-for-one special double wing day. Of further note is the ability to access the truck bed. Are those side wings? This one feels extra special.
  6. Spize909- how does that dbw pedal hold up to the sand? how long has it been in service? Any concern about the housing getting clogged up? Seems like sand would collect right on top of it. I've got the same pedal, debating where to mount it.
  7. Spills310- Looks good, low hours, great price! GLWTS
  8. WTB LS Sand Rail Headers, with O2 sensor bungs. I'm in San Diego
  9. Anybody using the Weddle spring clutch disc instead of the Kennedy solid disc in order to limit driveline shock loads? What’s your experience there? Not sure why I see everyone using the harshest setup when they’re not all extreme hp setups that really require it.
  10. Lots of people here are looking to stretch their 2d for all it's worth- What are people are doing to keep them healthy besides just sending it in every season or two for refresh and limiting torque/horsepower? I've heard of: running smaller paddles or higher tire pressure to limit traction, 930's instead of 934's to use as a less expensive mechanical fuse, don't blaze the whoops in throttle, don't dump the clutch, don't land jumps on throttle, using a light duty clutch and replacing more frequently, landing jumps with clutch in landing jumps with reduced throttle/ speed matched proper clutch adjustment, etc. Wondering what people think works or doesn't work and what other driving techniques or mechanical approaches are out there? Driving slowly is clearly not a viable option. Thanks
  11. Of the used variety is the price point I'm after
  12. I'm looking for an AEM Series 2 ECM to fit my Honda J35A4 please let me know if you have one for sale or come across one. It's the 30-6051 model Thanks
  13. Old thread but I didn't see a response so I'll chime in Pretty sure you have a galvanic reaction between your well water directly attacking the aluminum. I'd recommend you use either fully pre-mixed radiator fluid , or if you need to run 50/50 then use distilled water and not well water. Radiator is probably already dead at this point but you might have some hope to re-weld / repair the bottom neck of the radiator as I think it typically the "tip of the electrode" that decays first and is probably where you spotted the leak. Here is a blurb I found on the internet: What coolant should I use with an aluminum radiator? Posted on August 09, 2015 by Tom DeWitt The key to maximizing the life of an aluminum radiator is not so much the coolant brand as it is the water type. All coolants sold today will protect the aluminum radiators adequately however distilled water must be part of the package. Concentrated coolants create a potential problem because this lets the installer choose the water source and that is where many make a big mistake. All water sources contain various minerals that can eat through aluminum despite having an inhibitor package in the coolant. So, what are the possible sources of water? Let's start with well water, which is typically full of iron and very hard. If that well water is softened, then it contains sodium or salt. Tap water from your local municipal supply will have various amounts of calcium, fluoride, and chlorine. So, the only way to ensure that the water you use is chemical and mineral free is to purchase distilled water from the local grocery store. The older copper radiators spoiled us because they were so forgiving with these minerals. Old timers will have a tough time with this water requirement because they have used all types of water without any problems in the past. The solution to this water problem is simple, do not purchase the concentrated coolant. Buy the coolant in a pre-mixed form to eliminate the possibility of any errors. Pre-mixed coolant already contains the distilled water and the proper ratio to make filling your cooling system simple. You no longer have to pre-mix the coolant or guess at what water ratio you have. Just pour it in and forget it. I recommend getting a five-year coolant and replacing it every three years to be safe. The reason coolants have a term on life is because that is how long the inhibitor package will last. Remember this, it has nothing to do with the color of the coolant when determining the condition of the inhibitor package. When the inhibitor package decays you no longer are protected from minerals eating the aluminum.
  14. If I'm oriented correctly, the A-Connector is missing but the single white wire goes to A-12 or so? I know it's a bit hard to see. Shoot me a PM about the pigtail wired with the A-connector? Also, any recommendations as far as the OBD2 bluetooth reader for IOS? Thanks
  15. Newbie poster here, first time! I think It's time to start participating I just bought a new to me sandcar with the J35A4 Honda 3.5 motor stock from an 04 Odyssey and everyone's favorite red flying saucer, running a 4lb spring. No major plans for it at the moment other than just make the best of what is there, i.e. get it dialed in and go run it. Sometime high idle and barely rough cold starts...came with some extra MAP and IAC sensors so those are my first targets to calibrate. Already found the faulty IAC voltage and am replacing it... Wire harness is the typical stock version with god only knows what is done to it. No OBD connector to be found. Geez this sure would be easier to at least get the basics working with an OBD2/Bluetooth and Torque Pro. Anybody know how to splice in an OBD2 to the ECM? Odyssey repair manual on the way in a day or two, but figured I'd try and tap into the collective brain trust as I don't think custom wiring is on Chilton's menu. Thanks in advance!

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