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Everything posted by WanderWeasel

  1. Ur right, got my science-ey word backwards! either way, the paint supplies it’s own reaction energy to cure
  2. It didn’t react with the filter, it reacted with itself. It’s called an endothermic reaction, and is common with epoxies mostly, but really all thermoset resins, like polyester, polyurethane, etc. What happens is it gives off heat as the polymer crosslinks/cures. If there is a large amount of the material together, it can really build up lots of heat and ignite itself. So a hepa filter would be a good place to collect lots of curing paint. Fun stuff, although I’ve mostly only seen it in a cup or bucket full of curing epoxy or polyester resin. Typically just the leftovers, you know?
  3. Ran across in an off road warehouse advert and just wondered if any duners had tried this one or the generic versions? I’ve got the sport mode and eco button in my commuter car and it is pretty darn fun. https://pedalcommander.com/?utm_campaign=Pedal+Commander&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&utm_term=pedal commander&hsa_acc=4704139283&hsa_cam=2040666662&hsa_ad=356416835031&hsa_tgt=kwd-302408449673&hsa_grp=71114985574&hsa_mt=e&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&hsa_kw=pedal commander&hsa_src=g&gclid=CjwKCAjw8NfrBRA7EiwAfiVJpfFFheqqJAmnQSWKxCFicxPnVX6dMrHDsJhbEsxJxvyElzBdvA3W9RoC0CcQAvD_BwE
  4. Guessing 1100 lbs. it’s nice because 1 grown man or any couple of people can drag the front end downhill if you get stuck. i think the technical term is actually back cut dogs, which aids in the positive gear engagement I.e. it helps itself into gear, no half gear missed shifts making that nasty grinding. APE TRANSMISSIONS Transmission Undercutting Undercutting a transmission involves machining angles on the engagement dogs and slots to prevent the transmission from jumping out of gear under load. yes fuel injected, starts first time every time, runs outstandingly. i got it up to 84 or so in the flats off gecko max speed that’s 6th, but 6th is useless. If you are talking about sand highway to Gordon’s, then it’d sit in the powerband in the top of fifth at around 70 to 75. It’s pretty scary like that though. On top of the cam in 4th doing 65 or so it’s really snappy and just wants to accelerate
  5. Thanks JD101g! let’s make this more interesting lowered price 14k!
  6. Thanks Crusty! Every single time I drive this without fail I've got a huge smile, it won't disappoint.
  7. 2007 Tom Pro Design Hayabusa powered mini buggy. Chromoly chassis. All fresh and prepped and ready to ride, needs nothing. Just go ride. Why get a boring rzr when you can have way more reliable fun for dirt cheap. The Tom Pro has the roomiest cage- I’m 6’3”, great suspension, and Tom is still in business so you won’t be left out in the cold. Tom and Linda have been amazing at keeping me up and running, advice or parts fast and often times even at Glamis. -Naturally Aspirated, stock gen 1 Hayabusa. RELIABLE. I don’t run the hill, so it’s strictly a dune smasher. Back cut gears is the only mod. Dual K&N filter setup. -reverse box, rebuilt last season, although with NA this was the first rebuild since new. -King shocks freshly rebuilt. Springs and valving are dialed in. -New STU Blaster Pro #2 cut. Nipples galore, we all love fresh nipples on our tires. -In car and car to car radio w 2 headsets and 2 push to talk buttons -fresh battery -7 gal tank, use 91octane, fresh fuel filter -Cool running radiator. Even when it’s 95 out the fan barely comes on. Have to mention this as the King car in our group was really unhappy when it got hot. -5pt harnesses, wrist straps -wing trunk, tool box, and cooler. Plenty of storage space - fresh oil and filter -fresh gear oil -fresh chain, sprocket, countershaft sprocket -fresh heims -LED light bar18000 lumens, lighted whip -GKN 930CVs perfect with no pitting, cracking, or wear. NA just doesn’t wear this car out. Fresh boots. -fire extinguisher, nothing special but it’s a decent size. I spent lots of time just making sure anything and everything works perfect and it drives great with no issues. +another $500 worth of spare parts. 1 brand new micro stub installed, 1 waiting for action. Chain tensioner roller, extra Carbon fiber muffler if that’s your jam. Plus a few other things. This car has been great to me, it hooked my heart on the sand. I hate to sell but have a growing family and need to take a 4 seater further down the rabbit hole. In San Diego $15k Nick 858 775 6005
  8. 225 75 15 Carlisle E rated tire leftover from last trailer it was an 07 i bought the tire last year it is new new never run it was a second spare, still has nubs on the tread $120 in San Diego
  9. New GM LS Truck water pump, crank pulley damper, trophy truck alternator bracket, oil pan with pickup Bought an ls2 and went with the Camaro setup instead. Parts were mounted up as mock-up only For LS truck spacing -Water pump new, #12610169, $100 -New Goatbuilt trophy truck high mount passenger 4405-TT alternator bracket with new idler, $100 -New truck oil pan and pickup #12614822, $120 -New crankshaft pulley/damper #593871, $40 Text or email for more pics Package deal for $300
  10. Fully prepped, ready for the season, needs nothing. All wear items are fresh. I’ve spent a lot of time and money going through everything and getting it dialed and reliable. Thus it rips. Tom is still around and providing parts and service for his cars.
  11. Shout out to JTmoney714 and Kraut- THANKS! Both of you guys not only chimed in on my posts, but also took a couple of long winded phone calls to try and help me out/ point me in the right direction. I'll try and figure out how to pay it forward to the GD site peeps however I can
  12. Out with the old part way in with the new... the race till season opener in in full effect
  13. Ended up finding an used one on ebay, along with some funny business and 10 days later it sure seemed like a scam so I stewed on it and ended up punting on the entire Honda setup.... as I went further down the turbo rabbit hole I figured out that between the need for a dyno tune and the computer and all of the unknowns, that I'd already be into it for the price of an ls swap and much less headache. So that's where it ended up. Just really want a dialed in setup and to have fun with the family instead of fiddle farting with it all the time. Stock NA seems to do that for me.
  14. Hold onto your hats folks, it's a two-for-one special double wing day. Of further note is the ability to access the truck bed. Are those side wings? This one feels extra special.
  15. Spize909- how does that dbw pedal hold up to the sand? how long has it been in service? Any concern about the housing getting clogged up? Seems like sand would collect right on top of it. I've got the same pedal, debating where to mount it.
  16. Spills310- Looks good, low hours, great price! GLWTS
  17. Anybody using the Weddle spring clutch disc instead of the Kennedy solid disc in order to limit driveline shock loads? What’s your experience there? Not sure why I see everyone using the harshest setup when they’re not all extreme hp setups that really require it.
  18. Lots of people here are looking to stretch their 2d for all it's worth- What are people are doing to keep them healthy besides just sending it in every season or two for refresh and limiting torque/horsepower? I've heard of: running smaller paddles or higher tire pressure to limit traction, 930's instead of 934's to use as a less expensive mechanical fuse, don't blaze the whoops in throttle, don't dump the clutch, don't land jumps on throttle, using a light duty clutch and replacing more frequently, landing jumps with clutch in landing jumps with reduced throttle/ speed matched proper clutch adjustment, etc. Wondering what people think works or doesn't work and what other driving techniques or mechanical approaches are out there? Driving slowly is clearly not a viable option. Thanks
  19. Of the used variety is the price point I'm after
  20. I'm looking for an AEM Series 2 ECM to fit my Honda J35A4 please let me know if you have one for sale or come across one. It's the 30-6051 model Thanks
  21. Old thread but I didn't see a response so I'll chime in Pretty sure you have a galvanic reaction between your well water directly attacking the aluminum. I'd recommend you use either fully pre-mixed radiator fluid , or if you need to run 50/50 then use distilled water and not well water. Radiator is probably already dead at this point but you might have some hope to re-weld / repair the bottom neck of the radiator as I think it typically the "tip of the electrode" that decays first and is probably where you spotted the leak. Here is a blurb I found on the internet: What coolant should I use with an aluminum radiator? Posted on August 09, 2015 by Tom DeWitt The key to maximizing the life of an aluminum radiator is not so much the coolant brand as it is the water type. All coolants sold today will protect the aluminum radiators adequately however distilled water must be part of the package. Concentrated coolants create a potential problem because this lets the installer choose the water source and that is where many make a big mistake. All water sources contain various minerals that can eat through aluminum despite having an inhibitor package in the coolant. So, what are the possible sources of water? Let's start with well water, which is typically full of iron and very hard. If that well water is softened, then it contains sodium or salt. Tap water from your local municipal supply will have various amounts of calcium, fluoride, and chlorine. So, the only way to ensure that the water you use is chemical and mineral free is to purchase distilled water from the local grocery store. The older copper radiators spoiled us because they were so forgiving with these minerals. Old timers will have a tough time with this water requirement because they have used all types of water without any problems in the past. The solution to this water problem is simple, do not purchase the concentrated coolant. Buy the coolant in a pre-mixed form to eliminate the possibility of any errors. Pre-mixed coolant already contains the distilled water and the proper ratio to make filling your cooling system simple. You no longer have to pre-mix the coolant or guess at what water ratio you have. Just pour it in and forget it. I recommend getting a five-year coolant and replacing it every three years to be safe. The reason coolants have a term on life is because that is how long the inhibitor package will last. Remember this, it has nothing to do with the color of the coolant when determining the condition of the inhibitor package. When the inhibitor package decays you no longer are protected from minerals eating the aluminum.
  22. If I'm oriented correctly, the A-Connector is missing but the single white wire goes to A-12 or so? I know it's a bit hard to see. Shoot me a PM about the pigtail wired with the A-connector? Also, any recommendations as far as the OBD2 bluetooth reader for IOS? Thanks

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