Jump to content

Ben Bower

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Ben Bower

  • Rank
  • Birthday April 20

Profile Information

  • Location
    Palo Alto, CA

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
  • Your Ride
    Sand Jeep - Cycles.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. "BANNED" Probably why we like recreational serious duneing and Ultra4 or TT for racing. Bring it.
  2. Not lately but we used to use plastic or canvas and then throw sand on the bottom. used Gaffer tape for the plastic as it would come off easily. The sand is easy to shovel.
  3. Bugatti Vehron Above is $21,000 for the change. They explain the difference between the LAmbo. Think big in that world.
  4. That is a great deal if still available. Maybe not industrial but really handy for the fabricator. With a blade welder you can cut doughnut holes out of centers.
  5. We used flex bars in the 70's. That was the only way to survive 1000 mile dirt rides/racing. They were solid aluminum. You could flex them about 1" down with maybe 75 lbs. You had to radius the triple clamps or the bar would break at the sharp corners. I never felt a control difference. And we never had an issue with them but they faded out over the years. Maybe that was because people started hanging more crap on the bars.
  6. I have seen a rod end break about that same place many years ago. In a Jeep, 4 bar front and 5/8" on HARD braking in the dunes. Damage was substantial. Today those would be 1- 1.25" It was from a good OEM but of a lesser grade and bought because of "budget." If you have two with similar "marks" I would think it is a manufacturing thing. Rod ends can be a crap shoot to buy if not informed. Even the same part number bearing can have different "fits" that you will only get from talking to the OEM...not a retailer.. As a general rule: If they don't advertise the build parts with specifications including loads, then stay away from them. Compare the load specs with other manufacturers and the same offerings within that OEM. Generally you are going to want a Chrome-molly or hardened steel rod end for off-road toys. Then you have choices of Teflon or Nylon lined. And there are differences in Teflon's and Nylon's. A Telfon mat will be the toughest. Anything Impregnated or poured in place (Nylon-Nylatron-Teflon usually won't last as long. A good starting place to COMPARE anything would be the FK JMX series. These seem to be THE standard for offroad replacements. The Teflon series will have a T after the "size." https://www.fkrodends.com/products/rod-ends/precision-series/jmx-jfx/ FK brand/mfg are available from a number of outlets. It Pays to shop. When you are buying 16ea for a rig it pays to really shop and not to downgrade for a "budget." 16 x $20 profit on that many bearings for one phone call leaves some room to negotiate. Roundy rounders use, sell, and buy 1000,s per month. Hint. If you cannot get specifications it's not worth the wreck!!!!! They don't care about your liability!!!!!!!!!! Buyer beware. With all this said. Breaking a rod end is unusual, and you will see a lot more broken brackets, bolts (Grade 8 or 9), and pulled threads. A binding heim will go away fast so look for collateral damage.
  7. CV's are new to Rock Racers (Ultra4). Common is the larger 30 series CV's in the Independent Front Suspensions. With the larger CV and 35 spline axles, the CV can easily go to 40* and some push them 45*. This is during turning, Articulation is still in the range of 23*. Different in IFS is that you don't ("cannot" ) have plunge or turning is problematic. Problems have always been breakage and not heat (Maybe 5 years experience as rock racing with IFS is new). I have always held that axle plunge and spline lock creates the heat and also affects suspension valving. Some notes: A 934.5 will work just fine at the IFS Diff, but will not take the rigors of turning in the uprights. A 934.5 will only wheel turn a max of 30* at 18" of articulation (best case geometry, and replaced every event). A series 30 can be wheel turned to 39* with the CV angle at 45* (best case geometry) Outside of tire (40" x 14") on most of these cars are 90"+ with 4"+ backspacing. Most cars run 4000-5000lbs and 600-900hp. Most cars are holding to 18" IFS articulation because of climbing. Rears in the 24" range (double triangulated 4 bars similar to desert trucks with 500lb+ axles) . I have GKN series 30 CV's with 33 spline stars and wanted 35 splines. RCV said that theirs would fit...but they didn't. I still have to track this issue down but not on the front burner at this time. Just FYI. Series 30 are $$$$1,200. There are a few IRS cars in Ultra 4. Some use portal hubs and 934 CV's. The portals are about 2:1 and I don't think the CV's are doing well either. The rear IRS are a-arms so you would think that plunge would not be an issue from all that is known about IFS. Have a-arm sand cars shown any longer CV life? Of course that depends on the designers criteria of no plunge...? Thee are also a couple unique IRS cars out there that articulate at the middle with no plunge (Joe Thompson UFO, series 30 CV). And a couple more out there in the design/build stage with minimal/no plunge as a criteria. (34.5 and series 30 CV's) Once you have actively designed a IFS, you get the IRS criteria....It is just working with A-Arms or other novel designs. These other novel designs are allowing travel to 24" with good camber, toe and plunge control . I believe the Class 1 Buggies have moved to series 30, and surprised the sand cars have not with the high HP. May be the weight factor....but 4 seaters??? My roots are IRS Sand Jeeps since the mid 70's. But Ultra4 has captured my interest. 4X IFS/IRS for the dunes coming.....slowly as we learn. When designing you are always worried about unintended consequences, or things you should have known from a different perspective...which is why I am here....relating and thinking. Cool thread. Ben

More Links

©2001 GlamisDunes.com.
All rights reserved.

  • Create New...