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JoeyNY

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About JoeyNY

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    Amplified Performance Sand car

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  1. Well I have made some more progress, well kind of... looks like I will have to extend the engine cage another 2.5” if I want to run the alternator in the stock location. Another issue I am battling is whether or not I should run the trans mounts as They set the engine at a decent angle. I used a 10 degree mount set up as this would allow me to run whatever oil pan I choose. However I am not sure I like the height and angle, if anyone has some input on this I would appreciate it before I finish weld the mounts in. Ran out of time last night cycling the suspension on the right rear to check for axle length on the left. Planning on taking the four axles I have and having them all cut to correct length. Plan is to have a complete back up set ready to go in the trailer. Was almost able to get no additional set back degrees is sitting at 3-4 degrees at most. When suspension is on the straps it is at 24 degrees and around 1 degree of offset. right side shorted measurement was 27&1/4” and longest 29&1/8” so figuring if I get that axle cut to 27” I should be good. Again if anyone with more experience has any input I am all ears this is my first time setting something like this up.
  2. I could understand 1500 with the whole front ent on the truck with having to remove radiator, condenser etc. But with a bare front end and wide open acces that is a bit steep. What shop quoted that? If you’re in AZ talk to the guys at Modern Performance and Tuning?
  3. I would say depends on shops labor rate. A lot of places if you supply parts offer no warranty on labor, something to keep in mind. In a sand car that has clear access with minimal parts to be removed I would think anywhere from $3-600 depending on door rate of the shop. Realistically if you have basic engine mechanical skills it is not a major job. Biggest part is not letting the lifters fall down, then you are pulling the heads if you can not pull them back up with a magnet. Some places may quote you this scenario up front in case it happens. Depending on the engine I would swap the chain, gears, oil pump and look into installing a timing chain dampener if the block is not equipped with one from the factory. Also going to need to get a tune after the cam swap. If you do decide to do lifters I would spend a little extra and get some Morel or Johnson link bar lifters then you can ditch the plastic trays. I have run LS2 trays and LS7 lifters and have had good and bad luck with that setup. Also another thing to consider is the base circle of the aftermarket cam the same? May need to measure for proper push rod length always recommended and then order the correct length pushrod. Stocks may live for a while, however that will depend on spring seat and open pressure at max lift.
  4. I am in Peoria will you be in town next weekend? Or I could meet you during the week at some point?
  5. Where about are you located and how much do you need for it?
  6. Posted this in my swap thread figured would make a specific post for this. I was originally just going to run the F-body oil pan but then started thinking that there would definitely be an oil starvation issue. I have a truck pan but then the oil pan would be the lowest hanging part on the engine.Considered running an LS3 oil and wind age tray. Started looking around and I see Moroso makes a front sump oil pan with either remote oil filter or spin on filter options. By the time I tracked down all the items for a LS3 pan it would cost me the same amount if not more as a Moroso front pick up pan. Biggest difference would be oil capacity, Moroso 6.5 quarts vs LS3 at 8 quarts... Pans utilize a GTO pick up tube and you modify a factory LS1 windage tray. I have run a Moroso pan in three of my turbo LS street cars with remote filter relocation setups and have nothing but good things to say about them. Was just wondering if anyone could see a con to using one. Here is a link to the spin on filter style Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20138/
  7. Made some minor progress last weekend, am currently out in the garage getting ready to mate the trans to the engine. Installed the cam, valve springs, Trick Flow one piece push rods, Cloyes single billet roller timing chain, Melling timing chain dampener, Summit oil pump which is actually a Melling M295 pump with a Summit sticker over the Melling label for $35 less. I was originally just going to run the F-body oil pan but then started thinking that there would definitely be an oil starvation issue. I have a truck pan but then the oil pan would be the lowest hanging part on the engine. Considered running an LS3 oil and wind age tray. Started looking around and I see Moroso makes a front sump oil pan with either remote oil filter or spin on filter options. By the time I tracked down all the items for a LS3 pan it would cost me the same amount if not more as a Moroso front pick up pan. Biggest difference would be oil capacity, Moroso 6.5 quarts vs LS3 at 8 quarts... Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20138/
  8. Thank you I appreciate that.
  9. I know it would have probably been cheaper and easier to buy what I wanted to some extent. However I will know this car inside and out at this point, which can save you a lot of time money and aggravation later on down the road. Biggest issue with that is when something ends up being F’d up you have no one to blame haha Guy you sold it to seems to be a nice guy, he definitely was not one for maintenance. When I brought it home almost every suspension bolt and nut were loose, front wheel bearing needed service and so on. Soon enough I should have it all sorted then at the end of this season I plan on doing some suspension work and stripping the entire car to paint the frame and arms.
  10. I have always run Crow, I like the 3” 5 point with the built in padding. The nice part is you can send them back to them for recertifications, one time on my street /strip car they just sent me completely new belts. Cost like $70 each for latch lock and was like $80 after freight for Kam lock belts. Downside is the belt can not be older than six years from SFI date.
  11. So I made some progress this weekend even though it does not feel like after finding more issues. However I would rather find the issues here in the garage rather than out in the dunes. None of the brake lines are tied to the frame at any anchor point they are literally just routed and not secured. Found the rear hard line rubbing on the shift linkage along with the clutch hydraulic line. No lines appear to be fatigued or have an major wear spots. There were relays located in three different locations as well as three different fuse panels. Found multiple abandoned wires in the harnesses and nothing labeled at the fuse panels or terminals. All in all was expecting something like this once I saw the engine harness prior. Was told when I bought the car that CVs were just serviced 🤔 Not that that matters now anyway. Cut the engine cage off in preparation of possibly having to extend it and wanted to use tube ends for ease of engine removal. In the case of having to extend the engine cage I will sleeve and plug weld the extensions. Engine and trans is ready to come out to go to its new owner, is just sitting there as space is at a premium in my garage. Have the LS1 all cleaned up and will be resealing it and installing the cam, valve springs, pushrods, timing chain, oil pump, and marry it to the Medeola. Hopefully will test fit it Saturday afternoon and possibly get it tacked in place.
  12. Thanks again Chris for the hook up on the trans and parts!
  13. So back in the spring I bought an unknown exact year Amplified Performance car with an 091 and a J32A3. Was having some issues getting it running right with the aftermarket engine management, or so I thought. Turned out to be some issues in a shoddy engine harness. Well I repaired the harness issues took the car for a rip on a dirt road and broke the trans, started howling in second gear and when trying to coast in reverse trans locks. So chances are trans was hurt and I finished it off. I was already on the fence about swapping the car to LS1 and a 2D. As it would turn out a member on the board cut me a smoking deal on a fresh rebuild from Wright Gearbox when he was switching his car to an S4. I had a complete LS1 in the corner of the garage that is a good runner, may be hiding some issues due to previous owner putting the car up with water after they fixed a coolant leak. Car was then parked due to a bad leaking rear main and left to sit for about six months. I drove the car and ran it through multiple heat cycles and appeared to be ok however there was some definite corrosion in the cooling system of the steel components. I cut the radiator open and pulled the block coolant drains and all looked good in there so hopefully block and heads are ok. If not I have a 6.0 and a fourth gen 5.3 here as well that would work for a season. I have had life happen, so for sure starting this project way later than anticipated. Was told by a couple board members to start a build thread so figured would start one today. I have been collecting parts for the engine just going to put in a new chain with tensioner, oil pump, new water pump and stab a little bump stick cam in it that should provide a nice torque curve and provide some more top end. Is .545/.545” lift 222/231 duration on a 112 LSA 5 degrees advanced. For engine management I decided to go with a Holley Terminator X, I own EFI Live but the Holley stuff is so nice and tuner friendly. I have run Holley HP on a turbo LS street car and my current turbo LS street car runs a Holley Dominator set up that controls everything from trans brake, bump box, CO2 boost control, flex fuel sensor etc. Picked up an adapter plate and 9” single disc Kennedy clutch with stage four pressure plate from CBM. Pro Am shifter, engine mount plates, trans mount plates and other miscellaneous from Foddrill’s. Going to have to relocate the radiator thinking about mounting it off the down bars behind the back seat and converting it to AN fittings. Hopefully the fuel tank will be fine where it is unfortunately will not know until I can mock up the engine and trans into the car. I plan on mounting the trans to the back side of the mounts and cutting the rear engine cage and installing tube ends that will allow for easy removal at the end of the seasons. Hoping I will have this all completed by December providing nothing else around the house or daily driver vehicles break. Wish me luck I am going to need it haha! Hoping I do not need to re-wire the entire car but from what I have seen they may just need to happen and may actually make my life easier in the long run.
  14. Sounds good Chris! That torque curve looks beautiful!
  15. Have a complete uncut harness and ECU I pulled from a 2001 Camaro LS1 T56 car. Was going to use it for my sand car but decided to go with a Holley engine management set up instead. It is the 12200411 ECU. Asking $350, located in Peoria AZ.

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