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JoeyNY

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About JoeyNY

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    Amplified Performance Sand car

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  1. So I have been discussing this topic with the wife... If there was ever any question as to why I married her, the answer was in her response. She told me to do what was going to make me happy, told me build the car I want. She said “Doesn’t matter if you sell this and buy another, either way you will be pulling it apart and building what you want. Making it your’s not what someone else wanted.” So I have her blessing which is huge because we are a team, sounds weak but is how it should be🤷🏻‍♂️ I would not be where I am without her. On that note we are in the process of purchasing another toy hauler. Have been toying with the idea of just buying a Class A motorhome since I have an enclosed trailer already with a generator, compressor, welder and complete tool box with tools. Can not seem to find a used hauler that has not been trashed for under $40K. On that note, have only owned older models. I feel like a lot of the newer stuff will not hold up the way the older ones did. So the reason I mentioned this is I am waiting to drop any money on a trans until the new home away from home situation is solidified. Don’t have a bunch of money these days, am just a poor USPS employee now. Only have what I have from being financially smart and hustling side jobs and flipping cars when I can. Now this leads me to the next dilemma as to whether or not I sell the other toys. I love my street car, but let’s be real only thing to do with a car that makes 700+HP at the tires is get in trouble! I am too old to be out causing trouble and racing for cash. Another vehicle in question is my S10 SS LS1 swapped daily, is not needed but it’s fun! Final one is my 70 Nova that is in pieces, not pretty but never been painted so is an honest car to start a build from. I don’t need the money from the vehicles, however freeing up space would be nice so I could actually move around my garage. Add these three to my Ram Cummins and the wife’s TDI Jetta and the driveway is clogged too. Included a couple pics of the junks in question... Sorry for the all over the place rant, my retired neighbor brought me a couple shots of Apple Cider Whiskey and some beers. As far as the current drivetrain in the sand car goes, I will do a compression test, leak down test, replace the oil filter housing/VTEC screen gasket assembly and o-rings at the camshaft. I put a 12V switch on the VTEC and it engages but the hit is a little soft, really think the issues in the harness or dated ECU I can not gain access into. Trans shifts good and smooth, will just put it all up for sale to try and soak up the price of purchasing a Mendeola for the swap. Also just wanted to say, thank you to the guys that have reached out and offered some solid technical advise. Is nice to hear from guys offering the results for their experiences, and try to send you in a direction that would save you time and money. This is why I love the real duning community! Is rare to see sincerity and honesty in society anymore, but can always seem to count on it from fellow duners.
  2. Yes and no... valve sizes varied from 862/241/243/317 and there are few others in there as well. For the most part all Gen 3 are interchangeable when you get into rectangular port heads like from an LS3 (gen4) casting numbers 364/716/823 and fitting them to the smaller bore 5.3/4.8 will not work they require a 4” bore minimum.
  3. A lot of late model 5.3 come with 243 cylinder heads, (I have one in the garage) only real difference in all the 243 heads is LS6 came with hollow sodium filled valves, LS2 had bigger combustion chambers, and then there were also 799 heads that came on late model 5.3 as well which are essentially the same casting as a 243 just produced in a different foundry. All the 5.3 engines I have come across with 243/799 heads are all Gen 4 with flat top pistons. So in short yes a243 is a good head for a 5.3 if they came from a truck engine so you don’t suffer from compression loss.
  4. Thanks, no need for an engine have a complete LS1 and a 5.3 in the garage. Will check it out though.
  5. I tried to buy this car off race dezert a couple months back, wonder if it is a different owner now?
  6. I have a complete LS1 that I just pulled from a 2001 Camaro a week and a half ago, also have a complete Speartech harness sitting here as well in addition to the factory harness and have a couple factory PCM’s laying around. The engine is a pretty much freebie... I picked up a running driving 2001 Z28 with a T56 for $2K and sold the shell for $500, just wanted the trans for my 70 Nova project. So the engine is just sitting there next to a gen 4 5.3 with 243 heads I have. I may have an lS hoarding problem. Thanks for the response, honestly I am thinking if I can do this for around $10-12ak with my own time and labor I will only have about $25K into a car I know inside and out. Definitely some things to think about here. I just don’t want to spend any money on the V6 and decide I hate it. I already know it will not be enough power after the first trip, however it should be dependable. At least that is what my friends who have them are telling me.
  7. Picked the car up in the low teens knowing I was going to have to do some work to it. Was already planning on rewiring the car and tearing it apart to either paint the frame with steel it or have it coated as it was never done. As far as shocks rebuilding them myself is not a problem, headers can build them myself, extending the cage can do that myself. The big cost and big ticket items would be the trans, rear bypasses, new rear springs to up the spring rate, upgrade from micro stub to mid boards and from combo spindle to 2” hollow if I added the weight of a V8. I know the midboards and spindles can wait. I saw another person mentioned if I like projects. To date I have LS swapped more than ten vehicles that did not come with them. So yeah projects are kind of my thing, when I tear into one I do everything myself from rearend, trans, engine work, wiring and the fab stuff as well.
  8. Unfortunately from my limited understanding of the AEM ECU it does not show as being compatible with the J32A3 engine. Lists all J30, J32A1 and A2 and the J35 series engines. Would still need a factory engine harness and someone to tune which I am assuming would run to around $500-750. So that would put me in the $2200-2500 range and still no diagnosis capabilities you would have with factory ECU.
  9. Purchased a Sand car a couple weeks ago, was originally looking at V8 Mendeola cars. Ended up finding a really good deal on an Amplified Performance Car 3.2 J32a3 with an 091 trans. Figured this would be a good step up from a XP900 RZR I had and a good place to start as a sand car owner. Now here is my dilemma, I have been a big LS engine fan enthusiast having three turbo swapped street cars I have built over the years. My daily driver is an LS1 swapped S10, built a 70 C10 with an LM7 5.3 for my parents, my current turbo street car is a Fox body Mustang with a LQ9 that I run on a holley Dominator ECU. I use EFI Live for my stock ECU swapped vehicles. As it would happen I have an extra complete LS1 from a Camaro I bought for the T56 for my 70 Nova in the garage. You can guess where this is heading. My issue is this car has a 3.2 with an old Haltech E6X ECU which in order to do any tuning you need an old laptop that can run in DOS mode, to call it dated would be an understatement. Problem is I put the dirt tires on the car drove it around the block and had no V-Tech engagement even up to 5400 RPM. Now I am familiar enough with how the v-tech system operates to know it could be a bad o-ring or control solenoid. My problem is with this old engine management system is ease of tuning and diagnosis, or lack there of rather. There is no way to know if it is sending a signal to activate the solenoid with tapping into the wire and running the engine to see if voltage is applied. I was looking into purchasing a stock ECU and modified harness to the tune of $1300 . Going this route would give me OBD2 diagnosis capability, and running the car off readily available factory sensors. The Haltech uses a wideband O2 and after market crank trigger wheel and sensor that I have no idea what they are from. My question for you guys should I even bother with the V6 or should I automatically dive down the rabbit hole of converting this car to an LS1 with a 2D and sell the Acura and 091 powertrain? I know I would be opening a whole new can of worms as far as suspension is concerned due to the added weight of an LS1 and Mendeola. Would appreciate any thoughts and recommendations you guys would have, obviously having more experience and knowledge than myself. Thanks
  10. Beautiful car! Thanks for that information. The car I picked up never had the frame painted/coated so looks better in pics than in person. However I picked it up cheap so thinking will get stripped down this summer to be coated. Considering painting it with steel it so if I change anything at any point can just be touched up.
  11. Already looking around the garage and driveway thinking, this is going to cut into funding the other toys. 91 Mustang GT 6.0 Liter LS Turbo, 97 s10 SS LS1 swapped daily, and a 70 Nova in pieces with an LS1 and T56 sitting on the ground in front of it.
  12. Thanks hope so, coming over from a RZR XP 900 feel like I am going to have to learn all over again.
  13. I wear bear claws, like uggs comfy and no sand in the shoes. All the guys I camp with give me shit for it except for a couple old timers who wear Uggs.
  14. Hi guys, long time observer/reader here just finally joined. Have been going to the dunes since I moved to AZ in 2001 and finally just bought my first sand car. Picked up an Amplified Performance Car out of El Cajon last week, looking forward to starting some work on the car in preparation of next season. Sand rail J32A3 Acura 3.2, Haltech engine management, 091 transmission with weddle gears, Charlynn box power steering, Jamar front hubs and four piston calipers, Empi rear micro stub with four piston wilwood calipers, 930 CV’s, rugged radios car to car with four headsets, King 2.5”rear and 2.0 front coil overs, limit straps in rear PWR radiator and fans, Autometer gauges, CNC hydraulic clutch and single piston master cylinder, one piece aluminum floor, DJ Harnesses, LED headlights and lightbar.

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