Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About JoeyNY

  • Rank

Previous Fields

  • Your Ride
    Amplified Performance Sand car

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I know a little late but painless offers different lengths a set is $100 on summit. Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-60129
  2. Thanks threw one together last weekend, just used some flat stock, a coupling nut and a 5/16” heim. And welded on two reinforcements for the coupling nut.
  3. Stock spec is 58psi
  4. Is there a larger bottom out bump stop for the shock available from a distributor?
  5. Thanks for that info. Guess will find out on HP numbers cam is .545/.545” 222/231 @.050” 112 LSA advanced 5 degrees. I have seen a similar cam profile on a stock LS1 make around that range through an automatic rear wheel drive truck on 22” rims. Is there more parasitic loss in a 2D than an auto?
  6. We used to call my Rhino the Sand Shovel back in the day... never ate so much sand!
  7. I need to measure with the front suspension dropped too I would imagine? If I put weight on the front of the car with everything in the back dumped out it has about an inch at the very back of the cage. So that being said with 930 CVs and a 2D would I be asking for trouble if I stepped up to a 36” tire on a narrower 17” rim to gain some clearance? Trans is geared 5.14 R&P 2.90, 1.86, 1.44, 1.14. Engine is a stock 01 LS1 with a decent cam thinking will be in the neighborhood of 380HP at the tires with conservative timing. Also being a combo spindle car would going to a taller tire up front create an issue? I have not weighed the car yet I need to get some scales.
  8. I am planning on doing shock tuning and rebuilds myself, have rebuilt bike, quad, RZR and some street coil overs in the past. Thank you for this information I will for sure put it to use.
  9. This is correct for plunge, what I did was mark the dowels with sharpy, then measured the movement of the cv and made a second mark on the dowels to try and get a round about idea on plunge. I assembled an axle after I came back from my friend’s place and tried it out. When I have the wheels 1.5” from full droop I had no CV bind and still about 3/8” of plunge available.
  10. None with the front end up, lays on the cage. If I compress the front suspension the cage will come off the ground about an inch. I guess the only real way to tell would be to lay the front suspension out as well.
  11. Car is currently a single shock rear car, from what I saw it looks like it for sure tag the ground on a G-out situation. Considering installing bump stops.
  12. Thanks for the offer however I am in AZ. I just went to Lowe’s and bought some wooden dowels and cut them to length. I did find my car had the shortest length on about 2” above zero degree and then ended up being an 1/8” longer than the shortest measurement on full compression on both sides. I ended up with 27 & 5/8” Left side and 27 & 1/8” Right side. That was leaving 7/16” side to side movement at the shortest distance.
  13. Thank you for the information guys I appreciate it! I need to go get new limit straps. I have 21” of wheel travel determined this by measuring the hub center when on the ground and then at full compression. I measured the suspension travel with the shock hooked up and coils removed which also answered my question of what size coil over which is 14”. From what I am seeing with my axles cut (took them to a friend’s house and used his lathe, that was an adventure never cut something this hard) looks like I could strap it at 19.5” thinking going to strap it at 18-18.5” to guarantee not bind on the joints.
  14. I guess my question is really how much plunge is normal and acceptable?
  15. So I have everything tabbed in engine trans mounted I thought I had this figured out before now, I think I may be screwed. If someone has some input it would be great. I measured my axle lengths at three different locations of travel. And the difference from full droop to zero degrees is almost an 1&7/8” my axle cups are never in a complete straight line there is always an offset, now I am wondering if I did not set the trans back enough. If I have to start over I will it is what it is, just want to know if this is right or wrong? Or am I possibly dealing with less than ideal suspension geometry. Pictures are in order of Full droop, zero degrees and full compression.

More Links

©2001 GlamisDunes.com.
All rights reserved.

  • Create New...