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About JoeyNY

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    Amplified Performance Sand car

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  1. Had read that before, just wonder how you would secure the old school style inside the tank/cell was always my thought.
  2. They make an in tank universal pump. https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/universal-a1000-stealth-pump-assembly/
  3. Both filters are easily accessible with the seats in place. Corvette filter is studded and with one 1/4” nylock nut and three GM quick connect fittings it can be removed, the pre filter can be unscrewed. Ninety degree fittings I run are full flow fittings will not create a restriction as they are like a mandrel bent pipe same diameter all the way through, not a like one piece 90 fitting. All of my hoses are held in place with with stainless tube rubber insulated tube clamps attached to nutsert tabs and any hoses that run near each other are connected with billet hose separators. If you look there are three clamps holding the feed line within approx 24”. One on the return coming off of the fuel filter and adding another where it routes along the bottom of the fuel cell. I included a pic the style of 90 you want to avoid in a fuel system. I don’t know how you would avoid a 90 degree fitting with a top feed or even a lot of sump feed fuel cells, tanks or fuel rails without exceeding a hoses bend radius.
  4. If using a top feed tank or fuel cell invest in a Holley Hydramat they work very well at preventing staring the pump in event of G-out, cornering etc. while running low. We run one in a friend’s circle track car and it prevented all prior starvation issues. Is in a Modified car making right around 800HP NA with a top feed tank and the pump mounted below the tank. I have another friend who runs a Holley Hydramat in his Rock Crawler as well. I am running a top feed Rock Crawler fuel cell, 100 Micron pre filter to Walbro 255 LPH in-line pump to C5 corvette internally regulated Wix filter all -6 AN to factory LS1 fuel rails.
  5. You can use the factory LS1 MAP sensor no need to buy a sensor just has to be done with laptop or you can just select LSX MAP sensor and it will get you by. For the alternator can just wire it to the 12v off the wire tap connector, that 12v is supplied from the Fuel pump relay just need to solder in a 470 or a 510 ohm resistor to pin b on a four pin alternator. Matt Happel from Sloppy Mechanics makes one pre terminated to plug right from alternator to power tap plug and Current Performance Wiring also make one. They also have a version of that harness with a Flex fuel sensor connector as well for E85 guys. I just took the block off plug off and installed a wire and terminal and bought an alternator plug from Michigan Motorsports off Amazon and soldered a 470 ohm resistor in-line. I will agree that the harness is definitely cheapened up but that seems to be Holley Harnesses in general, even my Dominator I moved some things around on and reloomed. I also extended my dash/controller CAN bus harness so I could mount the controller on the dash I bought a regular extension and soldered it not know someone made one specifically for the sniper/terminator x. Normal HP and Dominator use two female connectors for the CAN with male on the dash and at the engine harness connector. Terminator and Sniper use female at the controller they did this to prevent people from booking up a terminator/sniper controller to HP/Dominator as the Software to run them is different and would crash the ECU. Also I am not a fan of the Amazon sensors as I have had some variations when using them, not a fan of Holley’s price for their’s either. I use ones from Low Doller Motorsports and have not had an issue. Also when you use the oil pressure and fuel pressure sensors you can go into the ECU with a laptop and set up safety parameters to cut fuel if oil pressure drops or pull timing/rpm if fuel pressure drops. Also they will display fuel pressure, oil pressure, wideband along with all other sensors on 3.5” dash. I also don’t my fuel pump off the supplies relay, I use the fuel pump activation wire to activate a dedicated relay for just the fuel pump. I do this to guarantee proper power and amperage to the pump and prevent electrical noise as Holley also uses that relay to power the injectors. Holley is also now making a solid state relay stack that is rated to 20 amps continuous and 50 amps for up to 8 seconds and has four banks. https://sloppymechanics-com.myshopify.com/products/holley-plug-and-play-flex-fuel-alternator-combo-harness https://www.currentperformance.com/shop/holley-power-tap-flex-fuel-alternator-harness/ https://www.efisystempro.com/sniper-efi-can-extension-harness https://lowdoller-motorsports.com/collections/pressure-sensors https://www.holley.com/products/electrical/wiring_and_relays/parts/75643
  6. JoeyNY


    I think a lot of you guys may like this podcast. They do one biweekly. https://podcasts.google.com/?q=No agenda
  7. There is a rollover check valve that the vent filter is attached to but I plan on moving it next to the power steering reservoir like my trans breather is on the left. Posted a link to what I am using for the trans vent. Went with -4an hopefully will be big enough. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Longacre-52-22566-Rear-End-Axle-Breather-Vent-1-1-2-Inch,57119.html
  8. That would be great! I should have a side by side comparison for the pedal mounts for you in a couple weeks. Have to do the clutch in my Ram again has a $1500 paperweight from Southbend in it at a moment.
  9. Cleaned cv joints, inspected, assembled and installed one set of axles need to order another set of cv joints and boots and will put together another compete spare set for left and right side. Took it for the first test drive around the block today as well. Was nice to have it move under its own power, still need to redo the brakes trying to decide if I want Stainless or just galvanized lines. IMG_1378.mov
  10. I went with -16 because I had about 11ft laying around from another project I did not use it for. If it gives me any issues I will step up to -20an I can source it from Hose Power right here in town is about $10-12 a ft if I remember correctly. I will have to update you on the pattern for the mounting looks to be different plus I am going from a single to a dual set up so the foot print is larger.
  11. Picked up the new pedals and master cylinders this past weekend. Wiring for my cutting brake to show up, and trying to decide between using stainless or just galvanized hard lines. Doing all the hard lines with -3AN black tube ends.
  12. You can pressure bleed the Wilwood master cylinders just takes a special tool that has been modified a little bit. I have something similar to this, capped one of the lines. Holds to the master with a chain and adjuster takes a little messing with and just put a rag around the chain so does not scar the master. https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/GM-Plastic-Reservoir-Adapter-P206380.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjwqJ_1BRBZEiwAv73uwEx1q0PCqsfM3s65mRFo1Ba72seRNlbhA6M2KYsG1yT9QjH3J5aZshoCWPYQAvD_BwE
  13. Was wondering if I could see some pics and get some input on cutting brake placement. I have decided to go with the Wilwood cutting brake and would like to mount it between the seats rear of the shifter. Any thoughts or experiences on placement would be appreciated.
  14. Coming from 14+ years as a VW/Audi tech been gone for five years now I can attest that those engines are no fun. Audi and VW have the worst timing chain setups and you need a box of special tools just to time them. What it would cost to do timing chains alone would pay for an LS or even a Subaru flat six. Posted a pic of the break down for setting timing On a 4.2 V8. Which is about the same layout as the 5.2 V10. Oh and do not roll the engine backwards by hand especially if it has not been running for a while the adjusters and tensioners might have bleed down and it may jump time. As far as height of memory serves me right I would say around 30” or so from pan to intake and almost 3ft wide. Also the engine management system is a nightmare runs two ECUs that they call a master slave system and everything runs off CAN bus systems. Oh and dual throttle bodies and is direct injected with an overly complicated high pressure system.
  15. After talking with the wife back in February decided I was just going to move forward with just replacing everything in the car that I am not happy with. Rewired all the gauges, had to solder together an extension harness for the Holley Dash/controller. Just waiting for some resistors I ordered to show up and then I can finish wiring in the alternator. So now the whole car has been rewired front to back. Mounted the shifter and built the new linkage, still need to adjust it. Took a break from this car to do some yard work planted some new palms, repaired irrigation and ran new wiring to the solenoids, and replaced home AC unit. With our current lock down situation and being USPS employee decided to hold off on spending money and wait this thing out. Have not been there long enough to not get laid off if they actually do run out of money. So now just cleaning up what I have here before I order seats, get new belts, new clutch slave and master and new brake dual master cylinder, rack and new steering wheel. Bought a new brake flaring tool With 37 and 45 degree that I have been wanting to buy for years. Will be redoing all the brake lines and will finish painting the entire frame with Steelit. At this point wish I had the room to just tear the whole car down instead of going piece by piece.

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