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Everything posted by jeeperdino

  1. whoops are a fact of dirt life. look at a fresh moto track, flat, but not for long. it has been studied for years. there is no cure. has to do with wheel rotation, not susp.
  2. check out my avatar, 2006 QSP with his 2d trans. 6.0 lq9. drives great and no problems yet. I will be out new years for a full week of pounding so if I have any issues I will post for all to see. also props to DORRS for the pink slip.
  3. kevin is correct, that setup converts a jeep wrangler quad. coil to a 3 link with a coilover shock. not as good for street but stronger and more wheel travel. after seeing bugkillers latest pict. i think i should wait and see what he does with his front end since it look like he knows what he is doing. that rear end looks great!
  4. like several other sandjeep owners, i am ready to be done with leaf springs. the a-arm setup is probably best but also harder to do. has any body else tryed the rock crawler setup? looks strong, stock brakes, about 10-12 in. wheel travel. here is a sample pict.
  5. i have a megasand 2d in front of a 6.0 lq9. only 2 trips, but driven hard. if it breaks i will post.
  6. i just finished my car and my batt. disconnect switch is on the ground side but it can be on the pos. if u want.
  7. good luck with your jeep, mine awaits the same conversion as i just finished my new 5 seater. are u going for larry minor type?by the way perk, how is your jeep redo going? picts?
  8. That place sucks please dont tell anyone about big river,too many people already!
  9. Any other relay box feedback? After further checking with the mfg. of the SPOD I determined that it also has an issue with the relays being switched positively rather than negatively, which cannot be changed with this system and not how I want to wire my car. Still looking for that ultimate relay setup.
  10. good points max, i would like to see other examples of clean relay boxes. also,the SPOD was made to be used under the hood of a 4x4.
  11. I saw this in a 4x4 magazine. I am going to use it in my current buggy build. It will be for the lights only, as MEFI handles the fans and fuel pump. Has anyone else seen or have any feedback on this device? It looks like it might work well for our buggies. It was originally designed for Jeeps under the hood and is sealed well, not to mention it looks clean. I was able to order mine with a black powder coating instead of polished. http://www.dualsport.info/rigs/tj/s-pod/source/index.htm
  12. Wow, tough crowd. I guess I suck! Anyone know where I can get a deal on a used CNC router? "If you build it, they will hate" It's a tough crowd in here, don't sweat it. Seams perdy nifty, I run plunging u-joint axles so I have no need for such a device, but I like the idea...... I agree with Yoshi it is a good idea. Hard to teach some of us old dogs new tricks. Job sucks no matter what. For the fun factor of a sandrail cruising Glamis I would spend 3 days packing cvs if I had to.:pepper: Thanks guys! You know what they say, once your hooked on the needle you can never change.
  13. Wow, tough crowd. I guess I suck! Anyone know where I can get a deal on a used CNC router?
  14. That is correct. However, it's not that easy to cut and drill. Several hole saws, a special drilling gig, and lots of broken plexiglas. Unless you have a lot of spare time, the finished product is less expensive to purchace than to try and make it yourself.
  15. I saw this packer also - nice piece, works well. However, once the cv joint is packed, it still needs to be attached to the axle. With the Coast Off Road type tool, the neat thing is that you get to assemble the axle DRY. At that point the Easy CV Greaser adapter tool is bolted tightly to the outer face of the cv joint. Since the tool is made out of clear plexiglas, the user can monitor the grease flow into the joint. Added bonus: the mounting holes do not get any grease in them. Once the grease starts flowing out the other side of the joint, it's up to the user whether or not to add more grease into the boot. When you remove the tool, pull it straight off the joint, and you won't contaminate the mounting holes. You can also leave it bolted on if you have two of the tools to store a spare axle. They will keep the grease in and the dirt out. As to cleaning old cv joints, I agree with Your Basic Sandrail's comments, that nothing beats paper towels and latex gloves. As to the cost, at $15.00 each, the inventor is not looking to get rich. He would be happy if he was known as the guy who came up with a better way to help his fellow off-roaders do a job that sucks. I posted a few photos, hope this clears up any questions. If not, keep'em coming. [attachmentid=99548] [attachmentid=99549] [attachmentid=99550] [attachmentid=99552]
  16. I see a lot of posts about cv joints. There is good information out there regarding types of grease, limit straps, axle angles etc... but when it comes to actually packing the joint itself, there is a better way. Forced pressure from a grease gun thru a simple, inexpensive adapter tool manufactured by Coast Off Road, virtually insures that there will not be any dry areas. Much like packing a tapered roller bearing with a packing tool, you can actually see the grease being forced into all areas of the cv joint and out the other side. At that point the grease continues to flow into the boot, usually about a half a tube per 930 joint. There is virtually no wasted grease, it keeps the bolt holes dry for loctite, and makes a handy storage device for a spare axle if you have one. They also have them for 934 and type 1. The price is so good it would be a waste of time to make it yourself. The next issue of Sand Sports Mag. will be doing a full blown tech write-up, as they thought it was such a great product, as did Quicksand Performance and AG Sandcars. Here's to better and cleaner packing, fellow duners! :pepper:
  17. check out http://www.coastoffroad.com for a better way to pack cv joints. there will also be a tech. write-up in the next issue of sand sports mag. jeeperdino

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