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Romans9

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Everything posted by Romans9

  1. Romans9

    Ride height and the California lean

    Here is an old post that is listed in the best of the best. For those of you not familiar with the author of the post he hooked a lot of people for a lot of money (hundreds of thousands) and destroyed many family’s prospective dunning activities with his shannaigans. None the less the information here is very good. I often get asked "what’s wrong with my shocks" by people who are frustrated with the ride of their car and just need some help. I have also seen many people ask questions on this board about this subject and so I thought it may be a good idea to list the things I would do to get a good riding car from start to finish. Remember this is a generality as well as just my .02 so use it if you like or don't if you disagree. Ok, here we go. This could be long but it will help. The order in which you should proceed is spring first, valveing second and rate nuts last. (Rate nuts being the aluminum collars inside the spring threaded on the shock body) Springs: The preferred spring rates for most cars will require 1" to 2" preload to get the desired ride height for your car. With the suspension extended (car jacked up off the ground) loosen the upper spring collar that controls pre-load. You want it to loosen up to the point that the coil springs become loose enough to rattle on the shock. Now tighten the preload collar a turn or so until the springs are just held in place and can't rattle around much. This is ZERO preload for your application. Depending on the spring heights being used there can be any where from 0 threads showing on the shock body above the preload collar to 4 inches showing. What ever it is, measure from the preload collar to the top of the shock, shock bolt, top of the threads, what ever is a constant so that you know what 0 preload is for later. If you have 4" of threads showing or 0 threads you need to change the height or length of the springs to correct this but we won't go into that right now. Now that you have a starting point, thread the preload collar down the shock until you get the ride height that you want in your car. This must be done with nitrogen in the shocks and preferably an average load in the car. This may take a few attempts with the jack and don't forget to settle the suspension a bit by jumping up and down on it or rolling the car back and forth. If you have the ride height you want but have less than 1" of pre-load then chances are that you have too much spring rate. If you have more than 2" of preload then you have too little spring rate. It is better to go to the light side (3" preload) than it is to go to the stiff side when it comes to spring. If you are running two springs (upper and lower per shock) then it is a good idea to change spring rates between them. Always go lighter on the top and heavier on the bottom. This way the car can enjoy the plush ride that a light spring can help with and also get a stiffer rate when the secondary rate nuts come into play for those big G outs. I don't think it is a good idea to have MORE than 200lbs difference between the upper and lower spring rates(400 upper and 600lb lower for instance) because more than that tends to be something you can feel considerably as the suspension cycles. As you transition from the upper spring to the lower it may be more of a jarring feeling than a smooth one. Remember that if you need more or less spring on your car you may be able to just change the upper one way or the other to get the rate you need. Also, never raise your car or lower the pre load collar in an effort to stiffen up compression. That is the shocks job. I know this is out of order but since you are playing with springs and may have them off the car now is the best time to measure them for secondary rate nut placement later. Every shock and spring set up is different. The correct way to set the rate nut is to figure out how tall the lower spring is at full compression. Most cars will bottom on the bypass (or should) not the coil over so the right way to check this is to take the springs off the car and let the suspension compress to full bottom. Here you can measure the coil over length from the lower spring plate upwards. This will be important soon. Now, figure out the total length of the lower spring if it were compressed to bind. You can do this by adding up the thickness of the individual coils multiplied by the total number of them to get total spring height compressed. Now add the height of the spring divider. Add that to the lower spring perch measurement you got by compressing the suspension and you now have the lowest possible setting for a secondary rate nut with out binding the spring and shattering the spring divider. As long as you don't go below this number you can play with the position of the rate nuts to see what works for you. Remember compressed lower spring height plus spring divider added to the position of the lower spring perch at suspension compression gives you the lowest point at which you can run a rate nut (from spring perch upward) with out problems. This should be the last thing you adjust when doing suspension. Every thing else is first. In order from start to finish, spring rates correct (1-2 inches of pre-load to get the ride height you want. Less than an inch you have too much rate, more than 2 inches you have too little rate) next valveing, compression and rebound to get the ride the best you can, last, secondary rate nuts to help with the G outs. If you have bypasses then a rate nut is less important to you if the valveing is correct. If you have coil over only then the rate nuts will be a considerable improvement for you. Valveing: Once the springs are close the next thing to do is adjust the shocks. For the sake of typing, I am going to assume you have bypass shocks so the adjusting of them is easy to do. All of these things apply to a coil over (accept bump stage) but you have to take a coil over apart to change valveing where a bypass can be done externally as long as the internal valveing is close. For the sake of definitions, more compression means more compression resistance, or slower compression of the suspension or a stiffer ride. Less compression means less resistance, or faster compression of the suspension or softer ride. More rebound means more rebound resistance, or slower extension of the suspension. Less rebound means less resistance to the extension of you suspension, faster tire extension. There are many ways to adjust suspension and all work but what "I" like to do is to start with the shocks as loose as possible. Set your compression and rebound adjusters all the way out or as loose as they can be. Next, run the whoops. Try them at 20 mph and slowly run up to 60mph. If you have some experience with this then you can feel what the suspension is doing but if not then the best thing is to watch the car from another car or video a section of whoops at different speeds and play it back in slow motion. If your compression is too loose it still rides great in the whoops. If compression is still too stiff the chassis will rise up with each jarring hit of a whoop. The goal is to have compression loose enough to allow the suspension to compress over the whoops without causing the chassis to rise up with each hit. Use some common sense here since a huge whoop can hit pretty good no matter what you do. I then stiffen compression until the chassis starts to "shock" upward and then back off a bit. If the rebound is too loose then it will still ride good in the whoops unless it is WAY too loose in which case the car will rise upward shortly after you hit a whoop. I know this sounds the same as stiff compression but they are different. If compression is stiff and moves the car you will feel jarred by the front side of the whoop as you go over it. If it is a rebound issue then the front of the whoop feels fine but after that the chassis raises up smoothly without any jarring affect. Another way to tell is if the chassis bobbing around stops when you get into the throttle, probably loose rebound. If there is too much rebound then the engine will rap up in rpm between each whoop since the tire isn't allowed to extend fast enough to keep contact with the ground. Again, video is easiest when doing this so try it and see how you do. Next, G outs and final rebound adjustments. Once you are happy with the whoops then move on to some G outs. If you have a 3 tube or more bypass then the shortest compression tube is the closest thing you will have to a G out adjustment. Hit a few G outs and if the car tends to bottom out during what you would consider to be normal dunning for YOU then stiffen the short tube adjustment a turn or two at a time until your G outs become livable. Remember that every car can be bottomed out if you like so keep this at the level you intend to run the car. If you still can bottom the car with ease even with the short tube all the way tight then try the secondary rate nuts. If you can get the ride you like without using up all the short tube adjustments then great! Try the rate nuts also and just loosen your short tube adjustment to get a smoother ride in other places. If you have a two tube bypass then you may want to try the rate nuts first and if they are not enough then you have to stiffen you main compression tube to help out in the G out. This also sacrifices your whoop ride to stiffen only as much as you can stand it. If you don't have a bypass shock then you have no bump stage to speak of so your only adjustment in a G out are the rate nuts. Now go find a jump somewhere you are happy with and jump it. If your car hits the landing and sticks, then great. But if your car hits the landing and then bounces up a time or two you need more rebound. Stiffen it up and try it again. Personally, I like to have as little rebound as possible just short of having a car that bounces up a second time on jump landings. This will keep the tire on the ground the most and save trannies and CV's. Also, run the air pressure you intend to use mostly when doing these adjustments. I like to have a lot in my tires, 16-18lbs and let the suspension do its job not the tire sidewall. Variable tire pressures will affect both compression and rebound so keep it consistent. If you can't get your adjustments to go far enough one way or the other then your next step is the valve stack in the shock. Stiffen or loosen the stack just as a coil over guy would do and then start your testing over again. Bypass adjusters allow you to adjust a certain range of what the valve stack is set up to do. If you are out of this range then changing the stack will move your adjustable range one way or the other. This description of shock tuning is a simple one. There are many other variables to consider that, simply put, would take too long to type. Free bleed, bypass valve porting, flow restrictions, shaft speeds relative to hydraulic flow potential, reversion, nitrogen temperatures, unsprung weight, and CHASSIS DESIGN to name a few. Assuming that all of these things aren't affecting you in a negative way then following these steps should get you really close to a nice riding car. Good luck guys. Justin at Revenge Racing
  2. Romans9

    Schwinn Here...i Am Alive...cancer Sucks.

    Wow, sorry to read this. Praying for recovery, comfort and peace for him and his family.
  3. http://katsfm.com/full-military-honors-for-r-lee-ermey-at-arlington-january-19/ “If you ladies leave my island, if you survive recruit training, you will be a weapon. You will be a minister of death praying for war. But until that day, you are pukes. You are the lowest form of life on Earth. You are not even human f8cking beings. You are nothing but unorganized grab-asstic pieces of amphibian sh8t! Because I am hard, you will not like me. But the more you hate me, the more you will learn. I am hard but I am fair. There is no racial bigotry here. I do not look down on n8ggers, kikes, wops or greasers. Here you are all equally worthless. And my orders are to weed out all non-hackers who do not pack the gear to serve in my beloved Corps. Do you maggots understand that?”
  4. Well she would have to sneak up on it, I can’t imagine anything willingly getting between her legs........
  5. Looks like the war is heating up. Wouldn’t you have loved to been the guy that delivered the message to her......
  6. Yes I watched it. The femmization of American men is purposeful. https://townhall.com/columnists/kurtschlichter/2019/01/17/we-need-to-retoxify-masculinity-n2539123 We Need To Retoxify Masculinity The opinions expressed by columnists are their own and do not represent the views of Townhall.com. Let’s be clear: My pronouns are “he,” “his,” and “stop being creepy weirdos.” Okay, maybe the last one isn’t a pronoun, but then again, I’m a man and if I want an insulting string of words directed at the nattering nabobs of gender neutrality to be a pronoun, it is a pronoun. And if you don’t like it, fight me. We need more masculinity, and the more toxic the social justice warriors think it is, the better. Bizarrely, now shaving companies are allying with the SJWs in an Axis of Irritants. Gillette is channeling campus gender studies dorks to try to sell you razors. They all think you should soften up, get in touch with your feelings, and submit. I say tighten up, let your righteous fury flow through you, and tell them all to kiss your Schumer. Much as I advocate global warming, I am a strong proponent of toxic masculinity. It’s also known as “masculinity.” Risk-taking. Ferociousness. Independence. These are the qualities the SJWs want to wring out of us. Why? Because these are the qualities they cannot overcome. They want us weak, passive and obedient. That’s how they get power. Some bloated Trigglypuff screaming about the male gaze can’t force us to do anything. Sure, a lot of them have weight on us, but if we laugh at them and simply say “No” to their demands, they’re stuck. Are they going to go get a rifle and make us? Nope. They have to talk us into surrendering, or really, pester us into surrendering. Which means talking us out of the uppity, aggressive, no-damns-given masculinity that is the last obstacle to their fussy, naggy domination. Don’t be fooled by the “toxic” qualifier – all masculinity is toxic to these human weebles. What they call “toxic” is really the essence of freedom. It’s toxic all right, but to their goals, not ours. Masculinity means freedom from them and the puffy, non-binary utopia they dreamed up because that’s the only world in which such losers could be anything more than a sorry punchline. It’s a War on Testosterone, and we’re culturally surrounded. But that’s awesome. As Toxic Male Icon and Army hero, General Anthony McAuliffe of the 101stAirborne put it at Bastogne during the Battle of the Bulge, “Men, we are surrounded by the enemy. We have the greatest opportunity ever presented an army. We can attack in any direction.” And Marine legend and Toxic Male “Chesty” Puller said something similar: “We're surrounded. That simplifies our problem of getting to these people and killing them." By the way, General Anthony McAuliffe, when the krauts demanded he surrender, responded, aptly, “Nuts!” Now, if that last paragraph is incomprehensible to you, your masculinity is in a dire state and you need some re-toxification stat. Grab some non-craft beer, some ribs, and go watch Where Eagles Dare on Netflix. After that emergency treatment, find a man who with whom to go shoot guns and speak of brave deeds done in the face of America’s enemies. This will begin your recovery. Am I saying men and women are different? Yes. Of course, so do the SJWs. They just want to eliminate those differences because those differences are an obstacle to their power. Embrace who you are, man or woman. Men and women are complimentary, the weaknesses of each compensated for by the strengths of the other. Being a man does not mean being a sad, hairy, lumpy version of a women. Nor does being a woman mean being a smaller, baby-having man. Being your gender is part of who you are, and by erasing that they seek to change you from who you are into who they want you to be: A neutered drone. And “toxic femininity” is next on their target list. The answer to the attack on toxic masculinity is to recommit to what they label “toxicity,” because what they call “toxic masculinity” is not about criminality or being a jerk. It’s about the basic premise of being a man, the role of builder and destroyer, engineer and warrior. They want to take what makes you special from you, so all you have are the scraps they choose to give you. And then they will own you. Do you want to be owned? Cue the SJWs liars to hop in to say that praising masculinity means celebrating rape and abuse and mindless criminality and mayhem. But everything leftists say is a lie, and so is this. The answer to rape and abuse and mindless criminality and mayhem is, of course, more masculinity – the confrontation of evil, and its destruction, by righteous force. And righteous force is a masculine notion. When some thug who didn’t get the memo about hugging is breaking down the door to get you, do you want some neckbeard sissy with a disposable Gillette standing by your side, or a toxic male with a 12-gauge Mossberg loaded with buckshot racking in a shell? See, the vast majority of the world does not have the time or inclination for this kind of frivolous campus pap. The real world is hard and ugly, not the soft, safe and secure urban zone cleared and protected by the toxic males (and females – there are gloriously toxically masculine women too) in uniform that these SJWs despise. Toxic masculinity created a safe space here in the west where fundamentally silly people can freely express these ridiculous notions. But out there, there are real monsters, not mere childish boogeymen like “manspreaders.” And the only thing that keeps them at bay are those infused with toxic masculinity (some of them women) with bayonets. I talk a lot about a world where men give up on being men in my latest novel, Wildfire (and the earlier People’s Republic and Indian Country), which detail a blue America bereft of freedom in large part because it is bereft of masculinity. Don’t let it happen. Buy guns. Drink beer. And tell the SJWs to go to hell.
  7. 2.5 Subaru Adapter Flywheel Clutch Turbo Power steering pump Alternator Complete as removed from car, clutch to turbo This engine was removed from my wife’s car. As far as I know this was a low hour engine. I bought the car complete. The engine dropped about from 20-21 lbs of oil pressure at an idle to 15-16. After talking to John from Outfront we determined it probably needed bearings. The engine never knocked and never lost any power and was not driven once the pressure dropped. The car only had 8-10 trips total on it since built new. The engine was originally purchased from Outfront but I do not know what was done internally if anything to it. I also have a radiator, fan, fuel pump, overflow tank, and Howe power steering reservoir if interested. I’m going back with an LS and Weddle or S4. Engine is removed and I will crate and ship. Located in Missouri. $2000 Johnny Best to text or send me a PM on here. 417-770-0606
  8. That’s correct and sounds about right. I bought an intercooler and was going to upgrade it but I never did and sold the intercooler.
  9. I don’t remember what it was running for boost. I always ran mixed fuel. Yes commputer and wiring harness.
  10. I thought I would save this for a two seat chassis but after seven years sitting in the garage I just want it gone. My wife is getting a rubber band car. If someone wants it and chooses to have John at Outfront work on it, I’ll pay shipping to his place John will treat you right and he’ll be more than reasonable. He gave me a very good quote back a couple of years when I talked to him about it.
  11. Romans9

    Teacher Strike 3: Freddy's Revenge

    Mr. Chester. Shop teacher. He was about 60 at the time and would tell all the girls he would give them a quarter to call him when they turned eighteen. Do I really have to say it? We called him..................Chester the molester. What did I learn from him? Not to mess with a bunch of blue collar middle class hard working proud protective fathers daughters. After word got back to some of the fathers they paid Mr. Chester a visit. He became a new man with a new respect for his female students. And he resigned a month later. Now I’m one of those fathers that will protect his children no matter what the cost.
  12. This was an “iconic”thread, I remember it clearly when DD posted it. The description in the first post was great.
  13. Romans9

    091 external dimensions

    Do you still need it? I may have a copy in an old file I could dig out and scan.
  14. Romans9

    091 external dimensions

    I have searched and apparently I have lost the PDF file I downloaded years ago. Bump this up I’m sure someone on here has it.
  15. Romans9

    Dump Truck / showcase Truck - 46000 gvw ($22,000)

    FYI truck is not 46,000 GVW 4700 International GVW is 26,000
  16. Congrats Kurtis, I think you made a good choice. A little more now but your resell will be better if (haha when) you decide to trade again. We expect a through report to follow..........
  17. Ready for some fireworks? https://www.politico.com/story/2019/01/10/trump-white-house-urging-allies-to-prepare-for-possible-rbg-departure-1096102
  18. After getting into a mess trying to buy a foreclosure my wife and I bought some property to build on. Here are some pictures. Here is a little hunting cabin.

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