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steinberg55

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steinberg55 last won the day on February 24 2017

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About steinberg55

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    "Brotherhood of the Slap"
  • Birthday 07/19/1976

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    Queen Creek, AZ

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    Glamis
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    Sandrail

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  1. These guys have tons of comparison videos. https://www.coolersonsale.com/ultimate-ice-challenge-results/
  2. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/71174 There’s an active thread on Budget Light Forum asking the same thing.
  3. My luck with stock third was not as good as yours. I have a EJ25 w/ EJ20 turbo , stock 091 3rd third gear lasted 3 trips, when the car was first finished in 08. They aren't very strong because they are fine tooth, meant for quite cruising. At the time, everyone said I'd blow out third fast. I didn't think it would only be trips. A non turbo 2.0 will have significantly less torque and if its in a lighter car that will help. Built the 091 and it lasted 11 years. the same stock old main bearing from the above trans finally died and sent balls inside, killing lots of parts. The ring and pinion went bad from use and torque, not because of the ball bearings.
  4. Not sure how much heat HID's generate. But it may be like a halogen bulb and generate all the heat in the bulb and it comes out through the lens. The LED is about the same heat, give or take, but the heat needs to be removed from the back of the chip, little heat is generated on the light emitting side. This is the major difference between Halogen/LED's in frozen weather places, halogens will naturally defrost a headlight lens, LED will not and ice build up will effect light output. Newer LED's without a fan are safe and reliable. Technology is making the LED light output versus current more efficient. The newer chips take less current to and don't need a fan. I agree don't buy fan cooled, because the fan is the first thing to fail.
  5. LEDs run cooler if the current (amps) is kept low. Low current LEDS don't put out the amount of light a headlight needs, about 1,000 -1,500 lumens. To get an LED to put out light for headlights, it needs to be run at higher current. The higher the current the more heat. Thus all the conversion bulbs have heat sinks, fans, both, long braid heat sink. etc. I have a flashlight that can go to 3,500 lumens in turbo, it has 4 leds, and is a very small form factor, not a lot of heat sinking aluminum to cool it. In turbo it's pulling about 18 amps. Had to buy special batteries for that much current. you get about 2 minutes on turbo, before the outside of the light is so hot you can't hold on to it. The driver has logic to detect the temp and steps down the current. This thing generates an unbelievable amount of heat. Most consumer chinese LED flashlights, LED light bars, etc don't run at the near the current level to generate lots of heat. and thusly don't have higher light output. The lumens advertised for cheap LED products are the theoretical max specification the LED can putout in perfect conditions at high current. But most of the drivers run a current that doesn't product a lot of heat.
  6. 05 Chevy Duramax with faded lenses. There's no good kits for LED's for the 03-06 Chevy's. Watched a few videos from Headlight revolution and looked at what they offered. Basically you have to find a kit made specially for your truck, that headlight revolution tests. The stock lens are best, but they fade. The aftermarket lenes are cheap but they don't direct light like the OEM. I polished the lenes, wet sand 2000 grit sand paper and follow up with a cutting compound on a cutting compound on a wool pad in a drill. last polish compound on a foam disc in the drill. Then sealed with wax. This made a huge difference. Pick the wife up at the airport and she didn't recognize the headlights of my truck because they were shinning bright again. Our year silverado uses 9005/9006 hi/lo bulbs. There's an old upgrade to 9011/9012 bulbs, see hidplanet link below. You have to trim the plastic of the new bulb. I haven't done this yet. https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/halogens/1409801-ryan-s-guide-to-halogen-bulbs 9011 bulb, Wagner $11.59 ea https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8XRHS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 9012 bulb, GM Bulb Part# 23342527 $19.99 ea https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195LGZF8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=A3MRI6BLC90HTI&psc=1 If you need more light coming into camp do the all on mod https://www.silveradosierra.com/how-to-articles/how-to-do-the-headlight-all-on-mod-t2381.html
  7. I'll take the EMPI T handle shifter
  8. Here a link when I took my starter apart. Thinking it's a 1994 Toyota Camery starter with IMI's nose cone and VW gear.
  9. A worn out fan maybe drawing more amps than when its new. Put a amp clamp on it to measure amperage and make sure its drawing the amps its spec for. Otherwise melting connectors is usually high resistance connection. Aka bad connection. Think if it like a 100w light bulb in the circuit generating heat.
  10. I straightened my rim. Douglas spindle mount star. Its not perfect but it works. Use a hard wood and a 5lb sledge. wood will keep from damaging the aluminum. The wood may leave marks that will have to be buffed out.
  11. To non car people with a broke car in there side yard. The old mexican guy is a god send. Everyone makes money and the non car people don't have to deal with tow/fix/staring at it for the next 20-year, etc.
  12. Nice work. We do the opposite, when headed to San Diego, we fill up in Yuma in the wifes Explorer. And if we don't drive too much there can make it back to Yuma and fill up without having to fill up in CA. The first time we took the Explorer to CA, coming back got caught in accident traffic at Gordon's, fuel light came on. Had to get 2 gallons at the last CA gas station before AZ. Last week took the company cruze to Yuma. doing 75mph averaged 30mpg. In town that thing gets 32-33mpg. And I've noticed the same with my Duramax. 55mph is the best for extending fuel mileage
  13. The lid screws on. The gasket is rubber with a bulb, like a brake master cylinder. Mines at least five years old. The gasket is still soft and pliable.
  14. Use a standard wide band. The o2 doesn't know what fuel your are burning, but it is calibrated to gasoline. It's measuring lambda, and outputs volts. See the table below, I built it because the other tables online only had E85 and E100, nothing inbetween. Its based on the constants are 1.0 volts is stoich, stoich for 100% ethanol is 9.0 AFR, stoich for gas is 14.7 AFR. When the O2 measures 2.5 volts on gas, the gauge will say AFR is 14.7. Switch fuel to E85, the O2 reading of 2.5 volts, the gauge will say 14.7 AFR, in the engine it will be 9.9 AFR. Constants Gas 14.7 AFR Ethanol 9.0 AFR 10% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 85% 90% Volts Lambda Gas E10 E40 E50 E60 E70 E80 E85 E90 E100 0.00 0.50 7.4 7.1 6.2 5.9 5.6 5.4 5.1 4.9 4.8 4.5 0.25 0.55 8.1 7.8 6.8 6.5 6.2 5.9 5.6 5.4 5.3 5.0 0.50 0.60 8.8 8.5 7.5 7.1 6.8 6.4 6.1 5.9 5.7 5.4 0.75 0.65 9.6 9.2 8.1 7.7 7.3 7.0 6.6 6.4 6.2 5.9 1.00 0.70 10.3 9.9 8.7 8.3 7.9 7.5 7.1 6.9 6.7 6.3 1.25 0.75 11.0 10.6 9.3 8.9 8.5 8.0 7.6 7.4 7.2 6.8 1.50 0.80 11.8 11.3 9.9 9.5 9.0 8.6 8.1 7.9 7.7 7.2 1.75 0.85 12.5 12.0 10.6 10.1 9.6 9.1 8.6 8.4 8.1 7.7 2.00 0.90 13.3 12.7 11.2 10.7 10.2 9.6 9.1 8.9 8.6 8.1 2.25 0.95 14.0 13.4 11.8 11.3 10.7 10.2 9.6 9.4 9.1 8.6 2.50 1.00 14.7 14.1 12.4 11.9 11.3 10.7 10.1 9.9 9.6 9.0 2.75 1.05 15.5 14.8 13.0 12.4 11.8 11.2 10.6 10.3 10.0 9.5 3.00 1.10 16.2 15.5 13.7 13.0 12.4 11.8 11.2 10.8 10.5 9.9 3.25 1.15 16.9 16.2 14.3 13.6 13.0 12.3 11.7 11.3 11.0 10.4 3.50 1.20 17.7 17.0 14.9 14.2 13.5 12.9 12.2 11.8 11.5 10.8 3.75 1.25 18.4 17.7 15.5 14.8 14.1 13.4 12.7 12.3 12.0 11.3 4.00 1.30 19.2 18.4 16.1 15.4 14.7 13.9 13.2 12.8 12.4 11.7 4.25 1.35 19.9 19.1 16.8 16.0 15.2 14.5 13.7 13.3 12.9 12.2 4.50 1.40 20.6 19.8 17.4 16.6 15.8 15.0 14.2 13.8 13.4 12.6 4.75 1.45 21.4 20.5 18.0 17.2 16.4 15.5 14.7 14.3 13.9 13.1 5.00 1.50 22.1 21.2 18.6 17.8 16.9 16.1 15.2 14.8 14.4 13.5
  15. I bought a 50ml graduated cylinder from Amazon for $5 or $10. The below image is where I got the idea but it uses 100ml and has a special formula that I think is calibrated to 100ml. I was thinking of investing in a smaller tester, but if they are not holding up then I'll continue to use this method. Did some searching on line and found a simplified version. Don't know if its accurate, ie the pump maybe 52% where I'm getting 54%. Graduated cylinder test directions Gas first then water to total line. Subtract to get water vol. there’s mixing right away that will absorb water, thus shrinkage in volume if actual water volume is added to gas that makes Calculation in percent lower. Formula (Seperation line - water)/gas Water 24 ml Gas 25ml Separation line 37.5ml Total 45 (Sep line - water)/gas (37.5-24)/25=54%

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