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DuneTrack-N last won the day on January 11 2018

DuneTrack-N had the most liked content!

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About DuneTrack-N

  • Rank
    Dune Master
  • Birthday 08/31/1977

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Bakersfield, CA

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Dumont Dunes
  • Your Ride
    18 Wildcat XX

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559 profile views
  1. Title says "classic" and i'm in here looking for a Funco Wampuskitty, bandito or SS2... GLWTS
  2. It was probably 6-yrs ago, from what I recall it wasn't to hard. NEW 12v 10awg power/ground find the four igniter circuits (in that old mess) and move them to the new coil circuit Best to let John provide the details
  3. Isn't that why we go to get away from it all? I actually hate the fact they are putting a tower up in Dumont, it was great with no service.
  4. what's your WPA2 code, asking for a friend in wash 15
  5. John had us do this coil pack upgrade years ago, it was a huge difference. GM/Saturn SL coil pack
  6. try the local police organizations in Bakersfield we have the 999 Foundation and they have killer flags, but don't have a on line store. you could call them and probably get one shipped. https://kerncounty999foundation.org/
  7. GLWTS I picked up a 89' Sport trailer found an deal and couldn't pass it up
  8. Not that there are many XX's here but..., I had the stock mounts fail at 1000miles and new stock mounts were on back-order so I ordered a set of SOLID mounts from Brute Performance. #1 I did this out of convenience to keep riding. #2 Why not pay once if they work out, see below paying twice... I had one mount completely FAIL and a second half gone. Both were the rear mounts, the front mounts seamed fine. During the last ride before replacement we felt and heard something new. Sounded like diff or drive failure but the feeling was very REV sensitive. Found out the failed mounts let the trans/diff SIT on the lower frame-plate section. Now I know why SpeedSxS sells that bump pad... but it's just a bandaid so watch your mounts. So I got the parts in less then a week and installed them. I did not drop the rear cage section and probably should have to make it easier. Front mounts are fairly easy but access is small, so you can't get sockets, guns, torque wrenches in there. Rear mounts sucked and had less access. Removed the rear heat shield and the shield between muffler and trans but it won't come out. Have to fight thru it all... Fight thru it all and got them in started the engine and... Yes at idle a little more vibration, nothing wild. Rev it up, nothing noticeable. 100 mile 6-7hr ride report. I'm driving wife passenger, fire up. She give me the WTF is that look, I disregard... and smash the loud pedal Hit the trails for 4hrs 50-60ish miles, stop for lunch. I barely felt the extra vibration while driving, nothing noticeable to report from drivers seat. Finish lunch and swap drivers. She fires it up and Boom I feel what she felt in the AM. The passenger FEELS a LOT of vibration and it gives you a nice massage while riding , so much vibration that I'll be removing them when the stock rubber mounts are delivered. 30 miles more back to camp and when we get there I tell her, yep I know what that face was. I'll get the stock ones on order. Pretty sure the vibration in the passenger seat is due to the mount location and the seat mount. The passenger seat sits in a guide right on the frame above that mount. The driver seat is more independent with the slider and such, it's not touching the frame per-say. So if your racing then maybe this won't be an issue, but for me that vibration in the seat won't be fun for anyone and worse as the ride goes on. We ride 40-100mile loops regularly. As far as the mounts themselves they are good quality pieces. Brute sends them with small sticker instructions for alignment and it's a true bolt in unit. Grab some blue lock tight and a few hours of time. I'm going to KEEP these for trailer/camp spares, just like axle and front diff coupler. If I loose a mount during a trip we will swap them in and run them till new rubber mounts arrive. Piece of mind to have repair parts in the trailer.
  9. Did that with my Rhino even left keys in it, now I have to watch myself and remember to get the wildcat key in the moho.
  10. TJ that was an amazing post and on point for what I wanted to learn. THANKS!
  11. Here is something I've read a little in to. https://bikemanperformance.com/tech-tips/general-clutching.html CVT CLUTCHING Here are some general clutching rules you should play by! Primary clutch (Drive Clutch) = Front clutch off the motor Secondary Clutch (Driven Clutch) = Rear clutch connected to drivetrain Peak RPM = The RPM the machine sits and holds most of the time at WOT. This needs to be in your model's peak powerband for best results. (BMP supplies you with your optimum peak RPM when purchasing clutch kits) More Primary Clutch Weight = Less peak RPM & greater belt squeezing force Less Primary Clutch Weight = More Peak RPM & less belt squeezing force Primary Spring Starting Rate = Controls Engagement Stiffer Primary Spring Starting Rate = Higher engagement RPM Softer Primary Spring Stating Rate = Lower engagement RPM Primary Spring Ending Rate = Controls Up Shift, Back Shift & Peak RPM Stiffer Primary Spring Ending Rate = Slower Upshift, Quicker Backshift, More Peak RPM Softer Primary Spring Ending Rate = Faster Upshift, Slower Backshift, Less Peak RPM Steeper Helix Angle = Faster Upshift, Slower Backshift Shallower Helix Angle = Slower Upshift, Faster Backshift Stiffer Secondary Spring Finish Rate = Slower Upshift, Faster Backshift Softer Secondary Spring Finish Rate = Faster Upshift, Slower Backshift Adding horsepower normally means you need to add clutch weight, go steeper on the helix angle, or both. Most small modifications only require adding clutch weight while larger horsepower modifications will require you to change both. Not changing clutching when you add horsepower will result in over-revving. On some 2-stroke snowmobiles you must add clutch weight or RPM will be too low. 2-stroke pipes are made to work when they are hot. If you do not load the motor hard enough, not enough heat will be built up in the pipe which will result in poor running condition and lower than normal peak RPM. This is about the only case when low RPM is seen that weight should be added.

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