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About 2.5king

  • Rank
    Special ops
  • Birthday 12/06/1982

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  • Location
    Bakersfield, Ca
  1. I have had a few sets of both I think the extremes handle much better but the stu last longer and hold air better, I sold my blaster 33,s stu tires and bought a set of extreme 16.50s and they are about 1/2" shorter but handle much better for slidding and they hook better also.
  2. I hate dexcool I have seen it mess alot of stuff up I dont know if it is acidic or something but it seems to attack everything. I have also worked on a car one time that had a coolant (dexcool/water) leak into the engine crank case, it turns all the oil into jelly and you cant hardly get the stuff flushed out of the engine with out complete tear down. Drain it and put the green stuff in.
  3. The US engine is much better the heads are way better than the imported heads. I ran the US 02-up wrx turbo on my old car and liked it much better, the imported turbo seem to boost creep alot. I think you should fix the bottom end and run the whole motor or see if the pistons in the imported engine will have the right compression ratio with the US heads and put all the US heads and stuff on the import short block. Good luck
  4. Wow that thing looks realy good that is going to be a nice solid car I bet you will be very happy you went with coi-overs, micro stubs and longer front arms. How long of front arms are you going to use? Good luck with the build
  5. Car looks great! Is this the same engine out of your old car or did you do anything different to it? I like the carbon fiber wrap deal on your intake I would like to do the same to the intake on my ez30r how much does it cost and can I just give you mine as the core? Thanks
  6. It appears to be a stock jdm 2.0L which is very common as long as the compression is stock which I am sure it is as long as you run under 12 psi of boost you can run 91 octane pump fuel no problem. Since you have that boost knob just run a little race gas and mess with it till you get it around 10 psi then run pump gas if you want.
  7. Not even close, higher octane fuel only helps stop pre-ignition and detonation it doesnt change igniton timming in any way, detonation and pinging (pre-ignition) are two different things and i think that you are thinking that pre-ignition is the same thing as the timming being way advanced but the timming doesnt change by different grades of fuel, the fuel mixture ignites right when the spark plug fires and the spark plug fires at a certain amount of degrees before TDC and that is called ignition timming. Sorry if I came off a little rude earlier I was drinking maybe this info will help understand it better. DETONATION: Detonation is the spontaneous combustion of the end gas (remaining fuel/air mixture) in the chamber. It always occurs after normal combustion is initiated by the SPARK PLUG. The initial combustion at the spark plug is followed by a normal combustion burn. For some reason likely heat and pressure, the end gas in the chamber spontaneously combusts. The key point is detonation occurs after you have normal combustion with the spark plug. PRE-IGNITION: Pre-ignition is defined as the ignition of the air/fuel mixture prior to the spark plug firing. Anytime something causes the mixture in the chamber to ignite prior to the spark plug firing it is classified as pre-ignition. Pre-ignition can offten be caused by poor octane fuel igniting before the spark plug fires. you had asked me how it would be spraying at full boost if the injector signal is telling it to close and open. What happens is that the injector was desinged to be ran around 50 psi so when you take it up to 135 psi you are over powering the injector seat and it cant close at that amount of pressure so instead of pulsing it is spraying constantly. Which isnt to bad since it only happens at full throtel I just think it is a crew way of doing it, but it works.
  8. The fmu is nothing even close to the manufactures way of a fpr I dont belive the engineers at honda desinged the injector to be ran from its factory maybe 50 psi to 135 psi at that psi the injector is no longer opening and shuting it is constantly spraying, which is probably a crewd way of adding fuel. You may have also had bad information on what fuel octane does, in no way can race gas or pump gas change ignition timming, race gas will help stop detonation, but no fuel will ever change your spark timming.
  9. If the turbo kit and engine management is setup correctly you will be able to run pump gas no problem and still make close to 400whp on a stock honda v6. If you are trying to do the half a-- way with a stock car computer. that almost all sand car builders set the cars up with 'cheaper' then you better poor the race fuel in the thing, or you are going to be trowing connecting rods and leak oil all over my sand. Aftermarket ECU's 'standalone engine management' are the way to go when it comes to making power and reliabilty I agree
  10. I dont know about pump gas on a type s 3.2 with stock ecu, I would say you are asking for detonation issues, the type s has alot of compression I belive a little over 11:1 which is a ton for any boost on pump gas and with stock ecu it wont retard timming but a little race gas could fix that. I belive that the gt28rs that you are talking about is desinged for the sr20det but good for 375 hp would probably work realy good with 5 psi on a 3.2 and those turbos are all over the place and they are cheap. Now as for the fuel system if you run the stock ecu you have to use a rising rate fuel regulator (FMU) for the honda most people use a 10:1 or 12:1 ratio fmu and put a check valve in the map sensor so it can only read vacum if the computer sees boost it shuts down. In my opinion aftermarket ecu is the way to go no FMU and you can retard timming and do it the right way. I belive it will pay for itself because you wont have to do race gas and wont have to go thru a bunch of blown up 3.2 hondas to get it all dialed in. If you want to save money do a megasquirt computer and Harness yourself or jack (subie4me) can get you set up with one, I have seen a few he has done for a friend a few others and they run much better and more reliable than stock ecu. a little long reply but hope it helps.
  11. 2.5king

    300 M Axles

    I think alot depends on how you drive, but I dont think you will have a problem with standard axles I know plenty of people that run them hard with no issues. If you are set on 300m I got a good deal on mine from Mckenzies, I belive they have a shop near by make them for them so they are cheaper than the big name brands.
  12. Here are some pictures of my buddy Mikes new paint on his car he has got three seasons on the car and just got the paint done and car put back together about two trips ago. Check it out.
  13. I'm planning on buying a car and was wondering, what are the positive and negatives qualities of 2 seat cars vs. 4 seat cars. Besides the obvious 2 extra seats it seems the main difference is wheel base. Can anyone tell me the difference between these cars.
  14. VW Country in Bakersfield not to far off hwy 58, he does alot of side by side and sand car stuff and he does alot of custom fab work. Give him a call ask for Mike (661)326-8092
  15. when mine did that it was the wire mesh gasket that goes where the muffler pipe slips over the head pipe, those things move so much air and are so restricted you can start it up let it idle and just put your hand or finger near any of the flanges or slip ons and feel the air leaking. Good luck.

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