Jump to content

Manxaru

Members
  • Posts

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Manxaru's Achievements

Hold My Beer and Watch This

Hold My Beer and Watch This (5/14)

  • Collaborator
  • First Post
  • Reacting Well
  • Dedicated
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

2

Reputation

  1. A few general lighting suggestions ( from someone who works full time in lighting) - Pick a color temperature and try to stay with it throughout the entire house, including undercabinet lights, and screw in bulbs. Either 2700K (warm) or 3000K (neutral), nothing higher than 3000K for residential, unless you have you a strong personal preference for something higher. - Try and pick downlight with a CRI of 90 or higher. (so colors don't look washed out, like fluorescent) - 4" max diameter for downlights. (6" downlights date the house) Try to get a regressed trim, they reduce glare. - Should be about able the get good 4" downlight, 90 CRi with regressed trims for under $30 each. If you have trouble finding them PM me. I can drop ship to anywhere in the country. - Be sure to match your dimmers to your LED lights, per manufacturer guidelines, to avoid flicker. Not all LED lights work with standard incandescent triac dimmers. Good luck, enjoy the ride.
  2. Another thing that makes life a little easier, as long as you're at it, is USB charging outlets. Anywhere you are charging a phone, pad, or other device, these are super handy and easy to install up front. No need to worry losing your charging adapter, all you need is a cheap USB cable. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Decora-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-and-USB-Charger-White-3-Pack-M02-T5632-3BW/301351320 and you if have a lot of devices, and/or want to future proof, you can get the outlets with USB type A and Type C ports https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Decora-Type-A-and-C-USB-Charger-Tamper-Resistant-Outlet-White-R02-T5633-0BW/303205383#product-overview
  3. good stuff, thx...like LtPyro said, looks like someone hacked off my themorstat housing....typical for sand car I guess, but does take a while to warm up BTW - this is what Garrett recommends for turbo cooling. More important for street cars (and semis) that log 100K+ miles, I'm sure, but still kinda interesting
  4. Thanks again for the info, really appreciate the help understanding whats going on with my plumbing.
  5. appreciate the info! new to hondas and this motor, and still trying to sort it out. On the first photo, looks like we want to tap the lower half, correct? Appears the upper half of the manifold is the supply to the radiator and the lower half is the return from radiator? and in the second photo, the red circle is an area to pick up the supply? thx...
  6. So my coolant manifold has bene modified and doesn't really look like stock. Cann't see any coolant to throttle body nipples, or even where they have been blocked off (at least not with engine in buggy) - Any suggestions for where to tap into coolant with this kind of layout? - In second pic, is this looped hose coolant or something else? Trying to figure this out myself, but very little info online for J35 transplants with flipped intakes. Thx...
  7. Bummer dude.....dealing with online reviews can be a big part of small biz ownership these days...PITA
  8. Interesting deep dive if anyone is interested - https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/choosing-a-turbocharger/water-cooling-for-your-turbo/ The TLDR version: Water cooling’s main benefit actually occurs after the engine has been shut down. so if you are running ball a ball bearing turbo without water cooling, good idea to let turbo cool down before shutting down, to prolong bearing life.
  9. OK, thx...now that I know what I'm looking for think I found it, and made some red marks. Not positive on the flow direction, but looks like water exits the thermostat housing thru vertical nipple to hose #2, eventually connects to hose #3 (thru a bunch of plumbing) and enters the throttle body, exits TB thru hose #1, and back into coolant manifold via the horizontal nipple. Does that look right?
  10. Ok thx...my Subi had water cooling and the turbo was still going strong after 12 years. Pretty standard on street cars, but maybe in the sand, with going thru engines and drivetrains so much faster, turbo longevity is not really a factor...
  11. hard to get a wide angle shot under the body....can you tell anything from these pics?
  12. hey turbo guys.... At what points did you you tap into the cooling circuit to pick up water for the turbo, and then dump the hot water back into the system? Any pics appreciated, thx.
  13. Hey appreciate the pics! I'm looking to go from a stock j35A1 to an rebuilt A3 with forged pistons and rods...and like I said, Kennedy said I would have to change to a new (4) bolt adapter plate. Thx man.
  14. Thanks, good to know.. Sounds like yours would idle fine, even when cold.
  15. OK, thanks for the info. Its interesting because the street guys don't seem to mind boosting 10:1 compression engines, but the sand guys like C&G and Outfront like to drop the compression quite a bit. I can understand the Sand Tuners being conservative though, they want to see their motors last, and we probably get into higher load cells in the sand than they do on the street.

Shout Box

Shout Box

You don't have permission to chat.
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...

    Important Information

    Terms of Use Privacy Policy