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About Critchy

  • Rank
    Sand Soldier
  • Birthday 02/24/1976

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Yorba Linda

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Gecko, Pad 1, The good old days back behind clean geans
  • Your Ride
    Buggy Works Rail, Eliminator Boat

Recent Profile Visitors

401 profile views
  1. I’m in the same boat. My suspension desperately needs to be tuned but I’ll be in Florida that weekend. If another date gets scheduled please post it and I’ll be there. Thanks for setting this up.
  2. Do you mind sharing with me what you got for it, either on here or PM. I have a very similarly equipped Manx and am thinking about selling it.
  3. Hey guys. It ended up being the master cylinder. I pulled it apart like Sean suggested and there was the wear on the o-rings. Replaced the parts and she’s back to normal. I gota give a lot of props to Sean. This is the second time I’ve called over to weddle and gotten top notch customer service over the phone both times. Thanks Sean you guys rock. Critchy
  4. You still bleed it like a regular clutch. It has a bleeder screw on the side of the case. Just no exterior slave cylinder.
  5. So I’m having trouble with shifting my Weddle HV-1 transmission. It’s very similar to the 2D but it’s based off of the vanagan. First off the back story. I broke an A-arm at the end of last season in the big dunes on a night ride ( I know it’s always the night rides but their just too fun). So I had to drive it back on three wheels and was riding the clutch hard on the way back just to get out of their. Ended up flipping the car twice trying to get back. While upside down I pushed in the clutch, which I’m sure put some air in the system. So now here is my issue. Some times (maybe 10%) of the time the car shifts fine. The rest of the time, I push in the clutch put it into gear. Sometimes it starts creeping along right away. Sometimes as I release the clutch it just lunges forward with no smoothness. And lastly sometimes you push the clutch in and it’s totally soft, goes straight to the floor and you can’t put it into gear. I’ve bleed the shit out of it hoping their was air in and that didn’t help. BTW it has a internal slave cylinder, so not anything I can adjust their. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  6. I have a windshied and a hood. I have never had a cooling issue with my car. Works great, and even better it keeps the wife happy.
  7. I believe universal trailers will do a 50 gallon for $1500 installed.
  8. Bump for a new price. Now $21,500. This is a lot of car for the price.
  9. Posting this for my Dad. Long Travel Sand Car: 5 seater (huge back seat, you could fit three guys in the back) 383 Stroker Motor Mendeola 2D transmission (New from Rancho) 4 wheel disk brakes Power Steering Fox Shocks Lawrence GPS equipped Turning Brakes LED Light Bar Includes full set of Sand Tires and Dirt Tires $21,500. Call Paul 951-847-5551
  10. Critchy

    Manx Bodys

    Scott do you do any fiberglass repair? I have a mid wide body of yours, burgundy one. I rolled the car and cracked the fenders. So I need them fixed. Is that something you can do and would the color be consistent where the repair is? If you can do it how much you think that would cost me? The fenders are easy to work with because I cut them independent of the hood when I mounted them. Let me know. Thanks
  11. Thanks guys. Some interesting info. I have used the silver anti seize on my stainless bolts, and nothing on my grade 8’s. I’ll have to get some gold for my grade 8’s. Maybe just use that for my stainless ones also.
  12. Ok so I’m curious. What bolts are everyone using on their car. I have grade 8 for all important parts, suspension parts, a-arms, shocks, seat mounts, motor mounts, etc. I always thought grade 8 was the best way to go. But for some reason I started thinking about it the other day and was thinking grade 5 might be better since it’s my understanding it has more shear strength. Shear strength would seam to apply more to sand cars. So what’s everyone using on the different parts?
  13. Ok I think I have it figured out. I’ve read a few places where people have said that circuit breakers trip easier than fuses blow. I took the circuit breaker out and put in a 30 amp fuse instead. I ran the car in the garage with everything on and and it never blew the fuse. Heading to Glamis Monday morning, so we’ll see how it does this week. I plan on pulling the car apart after the season to paint it, so if it works good this week then it looks like I’m going to get rid of all my circuit breakers and go to fuses instead. Anyone have thoughts on the push button circuit breakers vs. fuses?

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