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About Critchy

  • Rank
    Sand Soldier
  • Birthday 02/24/1976

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Yorba Linda

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Gecko, Pad 1, The good old days back behind clean geans
  • Your Ride
    Buggy Works Rail, Eliminator Boat

Recent Profile Visitors

349 profile views
  1. I have a windshied and a hood. I have never had a cooling issue with my car. Works great, and even better it keeps the wife happy.
  2. I believe universal trailers will do a 50 gallon for $1500 installed.
  3. Bump for a new price. Now $21,500. This is a lot of car for the price.
  4. Posting this for my Dad. Long Travel Sand Car: 5 seater (huge back seat, you could fit three guys in the back) 383 Stroker Motor Mendeola 2D transmission (New from Rancho) 4 wheel disk brakes Power Steering Fox Shocks Lawrence GPS equipped Turning Brakes LED Light Bar Includes full set of Sand Tires and Dirt Tires $21,500. Call Paul 951-847-5551
  5. Critchy

    Manx Bodys

    Scott do you do any fiberglass repair? I have a mid wide body of yours, burgundy one. I rolled the car and cracked the fenders. So I need them fixed. Is that something you can do and would the color be consistent where the repair is? If you can do it how much you think that would cost me? The fenders are easy to work with because I cut them independent of the hood when I mounted them. Let me know. Thanks
  6. Thanks guys. Some interesting info. I have used the silver anti seize on my stainless bolts, and nothing on my grade 8’s. I’ll have to get some gold for my grade 8’s. Maybe just use that for my stainless ones also.
  7. Ok so I’m curious. What bolts are everyone using on their car. I have grade 8 for all important parts, suspension parts, a-arms, shocks, seat mounts, motor mounts, etc. I always thought grade 8 was the best way to go. But for some reason I started thinking about it the other day and was thinking grade 5 might be better since it’s my understanding it has more shear strength. Shear strength would seam to apply more to sand cars. So what’s everyone using on the different parts?
  8. Ok I think I have it figured out. I’ve read a few places where people have said that circuit breakers trip easier than fuses blow. I took the circuit breaker out and put in a 30 amp fuse instead. I ran the car in the garage with everything on and and it never blew the fuse. Heading to Glamis Monday morning, so we’ll see how it does this week. I plan on pulling the car apart after the season to paint it, so if it works good this week then it looks like I’m going to get rid of all my circuit breakers and go to fuses instead. Anyone have thoughts on the push button circuit breakers vs. fuses?
  9. Socal, I ran a brand new power wire and ground wire to the light to rule out any chafing and the problem still exists. Sand seeker, yes it is an odyssey battery. But I turned on only the 40” light bar and nothing else besides the engine and it still trips. If I leave the 40” light bar off, I can run everything else, my 20” light bar, side pods, electric power steering, and all gauge and running lights. I would assume all of those together would pull more than the 40” light bar. So do you guys think a relay will more than likely solve the problem, or do I need more power to the front of the car. Currently I have two 8 gauge wires going to the front of the car to power the equipment below. Should that be enough or do I need more power? Again I never had any of these problems before I put that light bar in, and it still trips when it’s the only thing on besides the car running. Thanks. ignition starter electric power steering gauges running lights front and rear whip light 40” light bar 20” light bar 2 side pods lawerance navigation Rubbed headset head unit
  10. I tried replacing the circuit breakers already for that reason. But they are still tripping. Though
  11. I do want to know what’s going on for sure. Not sure how to check the voltage though other than looking at the gauge. I’ll have to go buy a volt meter and figure out how to use it. But looking at the gauge on the car, the volts were at 13. I did notice a drop when the lights went on and off, it was very minimal but it was a drop. I did notice with the engine off I can leave every light on and nothing trips. So I’m guessing that means the circuit breakers are the correct size correct? I would think they would still trip if they were the wrong size even when the car is not running. Then with the car running I left every single light OFF and the 40” light bar would still trip.
  12. the Small light bar was 20 and the large was 25, this was what the rep from the light bar place told me to run. But I bumped up both going to 25 and 30 just Incase that was wrong and the problem still exists.
  13. So I’ve had this problem for a while now. I have resetable circuit breakers. The one for my 40” light bar trippes all the time. Sometimes my smaller light bar will trip, almost like the two light bars rotate on which one trips. My set up is one 40” light bar, one 20” number light bar on the bumper, two side pods, and your normal tail light, front running lights, and gauge lights. All my lights with the exception of gauges and front running lights are LED. I ran two pieces of 8 gauge wiring up to the front, each one going to a post for power. I’m not running relays because I’ve read several post that indicated you don’t need them when running LED’s. Additionally I ran the car for about a year before adding the 40” light bar and side pods. I never had a problem with breakers tripping before I had these two items. So I’m not sure, do I need another hot wiring going to the front, or do I have a ground issue. Thanks for any help.
  14. Very interested. How long are they and is there anything wrong with them? Also where are you located?

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