Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Fullthrottleguy last won the day on July 7 2021

Fullthrottleguy had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About Fullthrottleguy

  • Birthday 11/01/1968

Personal Information

  • Location
    Torrance, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

875 profile views

Fullthrottleguy's Achievements

Brotherhood of the Slap

Brotherhood of the Slap (10/14)

  • Dedicated
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Very Popular Rare

Recent Badges



  1. I camp with people that have cars that cost 3x of mine Gives me some extra protection And mine will literally immobilize anyone driving it away within 30 seconds, the advantage of being an electronics guy - the only problem is I believe they will empty their bowels as well. At least when we bench tested it thats what happened.
  2. Happy B day GM - Glad you are finally ripping the dunes in your "early B day present" You are almost old enough to grow up now ....
  3. Most people call that type of arm a J arm because its not true A-arm - the upper arms that are curved to clear the shocks are also called J-arms by lots of people - Mosebilt and a few others have used those. I personally like the lower arm design like that for strength, but its true they do not ride as well as a true A-arm Nice car overall By The Way - he loves the car with fixes on the front end
  4. As high as trailer prices are - steel prices, axle an suspension prices are as high I just went through the same process as I needed a new flat bed. Having built many trailers in the past. I pulled the plans from my trailer Basic 18' by 102" wide, dual Dexter 3500Lb axle 225x15 tires on steel wheels, both axles with brakes and drive over fenders, Diamond plate tire area wood between (or even thought about open center) LED lights, standard ramps, drop tail, 4x3 rails 2x4 braces .120 Diamond plate, Primed and painted sprayed. In 2018 I built it for $2300. I priced it in Sept 2021 and it would have been $4100 plus the cost of welding wire, gas at $53 a tank now and the hassle of registering it in CA You can buy an off brand new or couple year old trailer for that... It may not be as heavy duty but they are 2000Lbs and carry 5000 thats all you need
  5. The roots (Eaton Gen 3 and earlier) blowers like the Maggie are more susceptible to damage from even a little sand getting them. the rotors are almost straight and roots style blowers make boost by compressing air in the manifold, that why they are noisier (not the whine, thats the gears) and they surge. The twin screws actually "screw" the air and make boost in the blower and push boosted air into the manifold - its why they are more efficient and why they require a working bypass. both SC's have same effect, the twins just heat the air less. The Maggie rotors are coated and some of the MP112s had a very thick coating to get them to pass boost testing, the cast housings were well ... not so great , and those SC's make boost by compressing the air between the rotors and the case.and the coating wears off. If you tighten them wrong - not torque them down in a X pattern or use and impact, they would scrape the rotors on the case. (GM 671's did the same thing) The rebuilders hone the coating off and re-coat the inside of the blower case and rotors - it lasts 10,000 miles and sometimes more. The 122H is a high Helix (slightly twisted rotor package (actually its the prototype for the Eaton TVS rotor design) still coated but way better. Awesome Blower for a stock 5.3 or LS1 if you can find one, but as the coating wears and some of the rebuilders leave them loose, they lose boost and if you spin them faster they make so much heat its not worth doing. Twin screws are hard anodized and tight clearances to the case are less critical. they make boost between the rotors so rotor to rotor clearance is critical. The Whipples are Cast housings but way nicer inside and new ones have billet rotors , and Kenne Bells are Billet housings and Billet rotors they are dimensionally so tight you can't put a hair between the rotors. I Pulled a KB 2,8 off a turnkey LS2 from 2006 that had 100's of trips on it, and brought it to KB for new Bearing and seals, they put it on the blower test dyno before and after - no change in boost it was in spec. Nice product.
  6. thats likely - you know the DD's for sure - I am not sure how Kevin McMullen fixed the car - but he didn't change the bulkhead. I am assuming by your info - someone "upgraded" the arms but not the Bulkhead and that caused the problem
  7. Its great in both colors !! the arms "look" the same as my buddies car, but the spindles are different
  8. Depending on your "kit" on the 4.0 the bypass should be located on the left side looking the SC from the pulley - it will be a little black plastic "can" on the bottom of the SC where it meets the manifold on the back side just above the end of the fuel rail - the can will have a vacuum line going to it and the "actuator will be going into the manifold - it should be a gold arm and rod 1.4" or 5/16" if I remember correctly, and you will see it move when you start the car - I test the diaphragms by either sucking on the line and making sure it holds vacuum or the more civilized manner using a hand held vacuum pump - it should move to a closed position when no vacuum - you can push on the arm with the car not running and it should only move in one direction not the other - meaning its normally closed, vacuum opens it (idle)- the idea is boost pushes and holds it shut- It can get dirty and gummed up if you are not running a catch can breather and oil is getting forced into the manifold (pretty common) and it hangs oepn and you lose boost Did you check the belt tension when you installed it? if its a 10 Rib it should have 3/8- 1/2' PLAY (PUSH THE BELT IN AND IT SHOULD MOVE 3/8 before the tensioner tightens) The MEFI is a good basic ECU the 4B is boost referenced thats good - no data logs, but uses a MAP, but no easy way to read it - its basically "set and forget" A good idle and easy start tell a lot, so likely decent spark plugs and none are loose (I have seen that lot on blown cars actually) You probably are not checking your fuel pressure either - it should rise with boost - the other reason you don't want a boost leak and you want all your lines dedicated. Low fuel pressure easy way to put a hole in a piston ... It's likely still the bypass or a line or a gauge (down on power could be something else like plugs). you can check when you get to the car - easier with 2 people checking. I forgot how much easier this is to troubleshoot with a modern ECU like Holley 🙂
  9. Unless you "inhaled" something that went through the SC - they don't "get loose" The most common issue is a bad boost gauge The second most common issue is bad Bypass valve that is not closing - The Bypass is SUPER critical on Twin screw .. if it hangs closed on idle you will literally FRY the SC, Then best practice I tell everyone I do an SC for is to always look at the bypass to make sure its open at start. Since it run off engine vacuum you should make sure the line to it is good - if its hanging open the boost is possibly leaking - if you actually closes on start up the diaphragm is probably good - but you should acheck all that periodically. Its also good to have the boost line separate from the bypass vacuum sense - that should be dedicated. Third most common is a slipping belt - Belts age, stretch and come loose. Whipples are not very efficient - they take more HP than any other SC to turn, the 4,0 takes well over 100HP even at mild boost, so it hard on the belts, especially if you are on and off the gas alot. Best practice change belts every season and check tension 2x a year. If anything was bad like an idler of tensioner the SC would throw the belt - thats the only reason other than alignment (which never changes) that it will throw a belt I am assuming you don't have an ECU that does data logging or lets you read the MAP sensor. The MAP will tell your the "real" boost and a data log will tell you everything else such as slipping belt or slow bypss etc. Lastly a Boost leak is a pretty typical cause of low boost - so any line on the Pressure side of the manifold, or anything loose on the bypass. If you had a bad gasket or something like that the idle would be noticeably bad. Of course anything mechanical in the engine will cause that too - leaky valves, flat cam etc. But you would likely notice bad idle, hard starting (un even when it cranks - hard to describe) and general bad operation ... Its likely 1,2,or 3
  10. I did not measure the car, but the upper and lower arms had the UNI balls too close to the arm (arm was too wide too close to the Uniball) and when he turned the Brake Caliper would scrape up and down on the arm and "catch" on the arm - it ripped one of the calipers off in the desert. If he turned hard the other way the tires would rub. If you cycled the front wheels up and down without the shocks, the steering wheel would move back and forth - which told me the tie rods and arms were not inline. It also had pretty bad bump steer I thought it was just wrong wheel offset when he said it was "rubbing" until I looked at what was rubbing. I looked for good pics but can't find them. Only pics I could find were from the video He brought it to Kevin McMullen and Kevin said "someone" messed with the car possibly trying to straighten it out - he named a GD member, but I won't name him. But Kevin said he had the Jigs and remade the Arms moved the rack, and fixed the issues - it was not cheap but it was safe to drive after that It was the only DD with lower Boxed "J: arms I ever saw so I don't know it it was from Dave like that of not
  11. One of the guys in our group bought a DD car with Boxed arms - of who knows which model - but the geometry was messed up - the car rubbed everywhere and handled like crap, it was bear in the dunes - Kevin McMullen straightened the car out and now he says its a dream to drive dunes and desert
  12. I have had the same experience with all the big box autoparts stores - I get oil there and brake cleaner and stuff like that... Since most everything I own is GM if I can wait In will buy from GMpartsdirect or one of the other Online discounters. A couple used to be on Amazon, but I recently got burned buying that way (fake part). I like rockAuto because they list who the manufacturer of the part is and I can usually get parts in 2-3 days - although you have to watch shipping cost with them My local NAPA stocks nothing but junk.. I asked the owner why I can't get good parts from him anymore, He says he makes all his $$ from local shops and he still delivers to shops in the area, by they shop him on price with Autozone and O Reilly that all have wholesale accounts, the shops don't care about quality he says. We are in a pretty state .... I Just pulled my AC Delco waterpump from my sand car - it had two trips on it - it was leaking from the rear cover, One of the bolts was less than hand tight. I guess the 12 year old Chinese kid on his 3rd straight shift was having a bad day, and I should have checked the TQ before installing it ... but as if we did not have enough issues in the his country ... My friend from Japan runs a company that builds some really nice "Ricer Racer" parts. He tells me Japan has "export parts" they make for the USA and Europe in China, but most of the parts they sell in Japan are made locally. He showed me his Makita tools that are all made in Japan and said check out the Makitas in Home depot they are all made in China ...It gets you thinking ...

Shout Box

Shout Box

You don't have permission to chat.
    • Create New...

    Important Information

    Terms of Use Privacy Policy