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About Hondo

  • Rank
    Dune Master
  • Birthday 09/24/1973

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  • Location
    Tucson Az.

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Gordons Well
  • Your Ride
    Sand Car

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  1. Yes point A. Just like Jeff described is how it's done. Sometimes if they suspension isn't designed correctly, no matter what you do the axle can be the right length at the level mark but will be too short when drooped. If that's the case a counterbored star will help to let it extend so it doesn't hit the clips at full droop. This happens if the suspension pivot points are completly straight without any camber change thru stroke.
  2. 1/4"- 3/8" shorter than the closest distance between cups ( axle and drive flange completly level)
  3. Nice looking car.
  4. Hondo

    CV Grease

    Exactly what we do. Assemble everything clean, clean. We clean all bolt hole threads with acetone on qtips until they come out white. If you put the grease needle between the star and cage when the big part of the star is at 10 o'clock. That's the sweet spot. The needle will go past the ball. You can completely fill the cup. The grease will start coming through the balls from the backside. Repeat this 3 times on each CV. The cup will be completly purged of all air and be full. We then top off any exposed metal without over doing it. Too much grease filling the boots causes overheating.
  5. We build 1 3/4" or 2" wheel spacers. They are the bolt on type with their own lug nuts.
  6. Hondo

    CV issues

    Torsion tube, pivot tube is the same thing. Most offroad fabricators have been around the stuff since the old VW days. That's what it was. It's the same piece just now it's only used for pivot not a combination of pivot and torsion holder. We can be "technically speaking" about anything and be wrong most of the time. "Technically speaking" if it has a sway bar attached in anyway, it's a torsion tube. It is a trade term for the same thing. Anybody in the trade knows it as both. We use both terms here everyday.
  7. Hondo

    CV issues

    Tensioner. Just saying
  8. Hondo

    CV issues

    3/4" wall thickness chromoly? That seems a little excessive. Most good builders use .120 wall. The problem with the breakage isnt so much the thickness as much as lack of support in the middle. Basically , if it flexes and moves, it's going to break. It's not "if" it's "when".
  9. The bread works awesome but be very careful with LS motors. Some cranks both GM and aftermarket are gun drilled all the way thru to the back. They seal the hole with a freeze plug. The bread trick can push the plug forward and open it up to the crank case. It's a real pain to fix it if you even know it happened. My personal car has a Lunati crank that way. I have done it to a factory GM crank and it tilted the plug. It was a real pain to fix.
  10. Body work is now in the works. This will be all complete and shiny by the start of the season.
  11. Hondo

    CV issues

    Absolutely, I would definitely change the flanges.
  12. Quick500 in Tucson does a great job. He is very meticulous about smooth running drivability. My personal car is very rowdy and he was able to tame it down to be more drivable at low speeds. It is much easier to drive around camp. It still hauls arse and is still very safe on the motor. He has the ability to tune numerous types of ECU's including Mefi.
  13. Hondo

    CV issues

    Hit the nail on the head. Right there. Some cars are very good the way they are. 930 2D car with a mild LS at most. Is a great car. Throwing money at a car just adding more and more stuff. Bigger faster than the car will ever be. More and more money than the car will ever be. I have seen many projects just go way over board from the original base. Sometimes it's better to start fresh with a good solid base for what the end game is planned to be. Or leave it for what it is. Building a 934, hot LS car dumping tons of money into it and still keeping VW stub axles really doesn't make sense. 50k Rhino is the perfect analogy. There's absolutely nothing wrong with a Rhino. Leave it for what it is.
  14. Yes we make the skid plate and the riser. The skid plate is 3/16" aluminum plate with sides welded on that bolt to the side f the Jack in existing holes.
  15. Ratios should be set up to dune in 3rd especially a 2D. They should stay out of 2nd as much as possible. Don't gear it to go 120mph. Most people gear theirs way too high. Most people don't go 100mph and if so they don't stay there very long. A higher ratio R&P will be stronger but will require lower stacks that make them weaker. Talk to the Weddle boys or any reputable builder that has a lot of sand experience. The dirt guys gear much different.

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