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Hondo

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Hondo last won the day on September 10

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About Hondo

  • Rank
    Dune Master
  • Birthday 09/24/1973

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Tucson Az.

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Glamis, Buttercup
  • Your Ride
    AF Sand Car

Recent Profile Visitors

912 profile views
  1. Very common to have a compression fracture of a vertebra due to hard G outs. I broke my L1 in a sand car in the desert. My buddy broke his on a hard flat landing on a RZR at Glamis.
  2. I set up a trailer with ETrack right down the centerline of the tires. My customer straps down his Tatum Prerunner with the tire wraps. It works very good. The key is to only pull up near where there are bolts on the track. .
  3. Just need graphics now to complete. First trip will be Veterans weekend at Glamis.
  4. Magnaflow 11385 is the X flow 2.25" short. I know they make/made a 2.5" like that too.
  5. 3 ugga duggas for 7/16" bolts 4-5 ugga duggas for 1/2" bolts
  6. My car I originally built in 2011. It does everything I want. It is pretty fast down the drags. It dunes amazing, turns on a dime, slides, no cutters. It soaks up the big whoops. Plus its street legal and I can beat it up in the desert. I always think I want something bigger and fancier but I always have a smile when I drive it and it still makes me shake if I push it.
  7. Toe in really depends on how the rest of the front geometry is set up. Generally 1/4" toe in is good, but where is that measured? At the front of the tire, at the disc? Some cars, if the Ackerman or castor is wacky will push thru a turn if there is toe in. Some wacky stuff needs toe out to even turn right without push. That's what the cutters are for are certain cars. When we setup our cars we run a baseline centerline from the very rear of the car to 5 foot in front of the front bumper. We then run a laser from the hubs to 5 ft out front. We don't measure off a rubber tire. We set our 1/4-3/8" toe in at that point. It makes for very minimal toe at the wheel and we can minimize any inaccuracies by expanding the point at which we measure from. This is all done with the rack centered, not the steering wheel as LRS stated.
  8. The front mid tube is one piece from the front bumper down the front of the door opening to the floor. The rear mid tube is one piece from the rear bumper to the lower door opening attaching to the front piece. On our standard chassis without doors, the mid tube is one piece stretching from the front bumper to the rear bumper. 5 bends 3 rotations. No seams. Cnc cutting, bending machine would be nice. 😁👍
  9. We built a door car. The chassis was designed from the ground up to be structurally sound with the cut out. There is a lot of strength taken from having the opening. It really needs to be strengthened drastically because the lack of a mid bar. We added a B pillar right in front of the door that basically continued from the roof to the floor. I think a trussed backbone would be a great idea. Our standard no door to door car comparison.
  10. And so the build begins. Nice clean white chassis with candy blue suspension.
  11. Looks good. I like the rear end style.
  12. We use those CBR coolers all the time. I have one on my personal car for my transaxle. It is mounted under my radiator horizontally with not much natural airflow. They are very small and fit where most won't. They are very high quality like all the CBR stuff. I do not use the sandwich adapter. We use the bolt on adapter that has 2 ports for pressure and temp. -10an lines minimum.

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